high speed radio trigger sync

If the 5DIII itself can't sync beyond 1/200th why do you want to do that? Some of the ETTL triggers do High Speed Sync if that's of any use?
 
I use a 5D MKii - 1D mkiv with a 600 ex rt as a master & 2 Metz 45 guns & I can get them to sync at any speed.
 
Please forgive me if I sound clueless here...

Are there any triggers that can sync flash to greater than 1/250 of a sec for a 5D MKIII?

Yes, most E-TTL radio triggers offer remote high speed sync, as does the standard Canon light-code system. Yongnuo 622 is great value.

The main drawback is low effective power, so the other option, that has potentially more power (with some caveats) is tail-hypersync, as linked by Tiler65.
 
Thanks for the info! That looks really interesting, shame I have quadras though so I don't think that would work!

Tail-hypersync works with the Eli Quadra's S-head, but not very well at all with the faster A-head option. Tail-hypersync needs a long duration flash. It also works better with a faster moving shutter than the 5D3 has, though those YN 622 triggers can also do tail-hypersync as well as regular high speed sync.
 
Tail-hypersync works with the Eli Quadra's S-head, but not very well at all with the faster A-head option. Tail-hypersync needs a long duration flash. It also works better with a faster moving shutter than the 5D3 has, though those YN 622 triggers can also do tail-hypersync as well as regular high speed sync.

wouldn't Garry's new toys help?
 
wouldn't Garry's new toys help?

Lencarta's new SF heads don't do regular high speed sync, but Garry has said they work with tail-hypersync* at full power when they behave like any other type of flash. There is the question of how well they work with that method though.

*Edit: guy in your link previously doesn't mention the main drawback of tail-hypersync, namely uneven flash brightness down the frame. It's invisible when everything's right, but very visible when it's not.
 
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Tail-hypersync works with the Eli Quadra's S-head, but not very well at all with the faster A-head option. Tail-hypersync needs a long duration flash. It also works better with a faster moving shutter than the 5D3 has, though those YN 622 triggers can also do tail-hypersync as well as regular high speed sync.

The YN 622 look rather interesting if that's the case. I may have to have a good look at them.
 
The YN 622 look rather interesting if that's the case. I may have to have a good look at them.

YN 622 is a brilliant buy, and yes it does tail-hypersync, but to make that trick work well you really need, a) a flash with long duration, b) a focal plane shutter with a fast cycle time, and c) a trigger that can be adjusted to fire at precisely the right moment to maximise the tail of the flash pulse.

You can tweak that with Pocket Wizards, to optimise with individual camera and flash characteristics, but not with any other triggers that I'm aware of, so the result with the YN 622 may not be quite as good as it could be.
 
If you have some spare cash, the Sony RX-1 can sync up to 1/2000th at f/2 with cheap Yungnuo speedlights and Pocket Wizards. If you like 35mm and full frame (what's not to like) then it's a very nice option.
 
Hey Tobers, what you said got me thinking!

I have literally just read in a review of the x100s that it has a leaf shutter and a maximum flash sync of 1/4000 of a second! Quite impressive!

Could be the answer I'm looking for.

If you're thinking camera the Hasselblad sync at 1/800th. Push the boat out, you know you wanna ;)
 
Hey Tobers, what you said got me thinking!

I have literally just read in a review of the x100s that it has a leaf shutter and a maximum flash sync of 1/4000 of a second! Quite impressive!

Could be the answer I'm looking for.

Yep, and I think the Canon G series can do the same. Worth having in the bag when you want to do something a bit different with flash.
 
If fast shutter speeds and flash is a key requirement rather than an occasional need, I'd also look at Pocket Wizard's Mini/Flex system and optimised high speed sync capability, also their peak-hypersync (as distinct from tail-hypersync). Combined with two or maybe four ganged speedlites, it makes a very potent and capable rig.

Rob Galbraith has a lot on it here http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9884-9903-9906 though I'm not sure exactly where PW is at with new firmware for the 5D3. It may still be beta.
 
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If the 5DIII itself can't sync beyond 1/200th why do you want to do that? Some of the ETTL triggers do High Speed Sync if that's of any use?

It can if the flash allows it. Ive shot at 1/800 with mine, using my 580EXII either on camera or off camera with a set of YN 622 triggers.
These little triggers are amazing value for money, and do full E-TTL.
 
It can if the flash allows it. Ive shot at 1/800 with mine, using my 580EXII either on camera or off camera with a set of YN 622 triggers.
These little triggers are amazing value for money, and do full E-TTL.
may I ask how to achieve this hypersync using a 622?

what settings on camera/flash etc.
 
Ill be honest and say i dont know what hypersync is. Is it the same as HSS?
What i do with my set up is put the flash in to HSS mode and then i can choose whatever i want on the camera. I dont do anything with the triggers. Im sure i read that they default to HSS mode when switched on but ive never read the manual.
I use M mode almost all the time so cant say if HSS i available in other modes, although i can give it a go if you want me to.
 
With a faster shutter speed than your camera's sync speed (around 1/200th to 1/250th for most cameras) you lose a lot of flash power.
 
may I ask how to achieve this hypersync using a 622?

what settings on camera/flash etc.

I now have some 622s, some YN560 flashes and a new YN568 flash.


With the YN568 I put 1 x YN622 on camera.
The YN568 is mounted onto another YN622 (off camera) and the YN568 is put into HSS (either via flash's controls or in 7D flash menu) and Bob's your auntie.
YN568 can be set to Manual or ETTL mode, but full power is best.
7D is in either Manual mode upto 1/8000 sec
or TV (Shutter priority) up to 1/640 sec


But for the YN560s (which have a maximum of speed of 1/320)

I connect them via a pc sync cable to the YN622s and can get up to 1/8000

Note the off camera YN560s are still connected to the YN622s via its hot

shoe, but it doesn't have to be.

The YN560 is set to M mode and full power.

7D: Manual mode up tp 1/8000 sec
TV mode up to 1/640 sec
AV mode: Approx 1/500sec
P mode: Approx 1/80th sec


7D flash menu:

Flash mode: Manual Flash
Shutter Sync: Hi-Speed
Zoom: Your choice
Master Flash: Enable or disabled
Wireless: Enable or disabled
 
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Ill be honest and say i dont know what hypersync is. Is it the same as HSS?
What i do with my set up is put the flash in to HSS mode and then i can choose whatever i want on the camera. I dont do anything with the triggers. Im sure i read that they default to HSS mode when switched on but ive never read the manual.
I use M mode almost all the time so cant say if HSS i available in other modes, although i can give it a go if you want me to.

If you need to go above the normal x-sync ceiling, the options are high speed sync (HSS, or FP-sync in Nikon speak), or peak-hypersync, or tail-hypersync.

HSS is the rapid pulsing of the flash, only possible with hot-shoe guns currently, that effectively turns the flash into continuous ambient light for the brief period of the shutter cycle. It works very well, retains full auto-TTL control, but there is an inherant loss of two or three stops of effective flash power, so potential range is reduced and recycle times can get long as the gun has to work very hard.

Peak-hypersync is exclusive to Pocket Wizard and their firmware specific to each camera model. It basically takes up the slack that manufacturers leave in their x-sync timing window, allowing small (but sometimes very useful) incremental increases in x-sync speed, with no loss of brightness. Eg, Canon 7D can go from 1/250sec and get a clean image at 1/400sec; 1D-series cameras can go from 1/320sec up to 1/500sec.

Tail-hypersync uses the fading tail of the flash pulse, that can burn long enough to cover the full shutter cycle time. It can work with hot-shoe guns, but only at full power - at lower power settings, the tail of the flash pulse is cut off to moderate brightness. It can work with conventional studio flash heads at any power setting, and the longer the flash duration, the better the result. However, there is always a substantial loss of brightness and exposure is uneven down the frame as the tail of the flash pulse fades. Combined with a powerful studio head and techniques to minimise uneven exposure, it can work quite well.
 
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