Hi-Lite set up/camera settings

Lee0204

Lee0204

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Lee
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Hi All

How does the settings look?

What would you change and why?

Thanks

lightsetup.jpg
 
Possibly try getting Iso to 100 better quality image probably result in lower shutter speed but do u really need 1/200 ss in a studio ? What r u shooting ?
 
amyl0359 said:
Possibly try getting Iso to 100 better quality image probably result in lower shutter speed but do u really need 1/200 ss in a studio ? What r u shooting ?
Click to expand...

I can change the iso and shutter speed no real reason why i chose them,:thinking: what shutter speed would you suggest?:shrug:

And will be used mainly for taking pics of my son/daughter 3 years old and 8 months old(wont keep still)
 
Don't have the subject too close to the bg. 1 stop diff is a rule of thumb (subject to bg) but often less may be better.
 
Last edited:
What would you call to close to background?
 
IIRC at least 3 foot away. Been a while since taking a few shots with a mobile studio kit I onced owned, but I got picture perfect after some trial and error.

Hopefully someone more experienced will put you right. Never really used it enough unfortunately. But too close you will get too much spill and burn out parts of the outline of your subject.
 
Depite, often taking shots in Raw, I always used an expodisc for WB, and even more if you take jpegs, which I started to do.
 
Will take a look at the exposure link and hi-lite size is 6x7 :)
 
Firstly, why are you using spot metering? I would be in manual, so metering is irrelevant. If you don't have a flash meter then a couple of test shots should (in conjunction with your histogram) tell you the correct exposure.

Secondly, shutter speed is largely irrelevant, as long as it is within your camera's sync speed. Unless you have a large amount of ambient light in the studio which you would use a faster shutter speed to block it out.
As for shutter speed freezing kids' movement, also irrelevant, as the flash duration is a lot shorter than the shutter speed, so it's this which freezes movement, not the shutter speed.
 
amyl0359 said:
Possibly try getting Iso to 100 better quality image probably result in lower shutter speed but do u really need 1/200 ss in a studio ? What r u shooting ?
Click to expand...

Depends on the camera.

On a Nikon ISO 200 generally gives better IQ than 100. On a Canon vice versa (though they are more similar).

But on a recent camera as long as the exposure is correct in camera it's often nearly impossible to tell the difference.

As other people have commented the shutter speed has little to do with this (I'd use the same ss regardless of ISO).

Plus your subject is a little close to the hilite for comfort.
 
GHP said:
Firstly, why are you using spot metering? I would be in manual, so metering is irrelevant. If you don't have a flash meter then a couple of test shots should (in conjunction with your histogram) tell you the correct exposure.

Secondly, shutter speed is largely irrelevant, as long as it is within your camera's sync speed. Unless you have a large amount of ambient light in the studio which you would use a faster shutter speed to block it out.
As for shutter speed freezing kids' movement, also irrelevant, as the flash duration is a lot shorter than the shutter speed, so it's this which freezes movement, not the shutter speed.
Click to expand...

No idea thats what i thought i needed to use?

What do you suggest?

Thanks for advice:thumbs:
 
JonathanRyan said:
Plus your subject is a little close to the hilite for comfort.
Click to expand...

I thought the idea of the Hi-Lite was so subject could stand/sit closer(just about right next to) although it seems im wrong:shrug:

Again thanks for feedback and advice:thumbs:
 
Lee0204 said:
I thought the idea of the Hi-Lite was so subject could stand/sit closer(just about right next to) although it seems im wrong:shrug:
Click to expand...

Closer, yes. But not that close. The further away they are, the easier it will be.
 
The 2 biggest problems people have with the hi-lite is too much exposure difference and wrap.

The ideal would be that the hi-lite would *just* over expose and be totally evenly lit - this is hard to achieve. But experimenting with lighting the hi-lite and using blinkies to get teh most even illumination is well worthwhile.

Wrap is simply happening because the background is a giant light source. When your subject is close to it they are being lit from the side as well often resulting in undesired lighting effects.

If you put your subject at one side of the hi-lite and compare the two sides of the subject you'll see what I mean.
 
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