Help with filters for breath taking landscapes

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NikonSimon

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Hi guys,

Just after a bit of advice really. I'm going for a cruise up the Norwegian Fjords in June, and wanted some advice on (mainly) filters, but also any other kit that would be good for capturing these sort of landscapes.

We'll obviously be spending a fair amount of time on the boat, surrounded by this amazing scenery, but will also be a fair amount of stop offs and excursions.

I'd like to know what filters would be good to take.

By the time I go, my kit will hopefully be:

Nikon D90 (currently D40x)
Nikon 16-85mm
Tokina 12-24mm or 11-16 (potentially, and which one depends on if I upgrade to D90)
Sigma 70-300 DG APO etc etc
Redsnapper RS283 and 528 panning head

We'll obviously be surrounded by A LOT of water, so would a Circ Polariser be a good addition?

What other filters would be good to take (whilst I feel fairly comfortable with most things, I'm a total beginner when it comes to filters)

Also, is there any other kit you think would help capture these sort of landscapes?

Thanks for any help
Simon
 
Just a small word of caution about tripod use on the boat. I had mine set up on the Dover to Calais ferry on the outer (upper) deck and the vibration from the engines transmitted all the way through the deck/tripod/camera and made the shots unusable. I tried with/without IS but no difference. Hand held were ok as my body/arms etc absorbed the vibrations. The only time the tripod was usable for some reason was as the ferry entered harbour with the engines on idle (well, slow)!
Oviously I dont know the vessel you will be on but worth a timely caution!
 
The best filters for any landscape photography are:

Polarizer - for reducing reflections, saturating colours, darkening a sky while keeping the clouds white.

Graduated Neutral Density - for darkening the sky while keeping the foreground bright.

Neutral Density - for darkening the whole image, used to increase the exposure required so that you can use longer shutter speeds and/or larger apertures.

UV or Haze - for reducing haze.

The first 2 are the ones I always carry.

Have a read here http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lens-filters.htm
 
A circular polariser is pretty much standard equipment for landscape. Bone up on how they work, it's all about angles. For example, you'll not be able to darken a blue sky and kill reflections off water at the same time. And with an ultra-wide you can get patchy effects across the sky that you might want to moderate.

The other popular filter is an ND grad (neutral density = grey) say a 2-stops soft-cut for starters. Also check out HDR technique in post processing which has the same effect and is more controllable, but it's often nice to see it right in camera when you're shooting.

Also have a go at panormas. Very effective and very easy with free software like Picasa.
 
thanks for all the helpful responses here guys.

What make would you say is best for quality vs price? For example, Jacobs do a 'Cokin for Jacobs' range, which is their base range, followed by Hoya, Hoya Pro and Hoya HD. I've also read good things about B&W, but I think I'm right in saying these are quite pricey?
 
wontolla said:
Just a small word of caution about tripod use on the boat. I had mine set up on the Dover to Calais ferry on the outer (upper) deck and the vibration from the engines transmitted all the way through the deck/tripod/camera and made the shots unusable. I tried with/without IS but no difference. Hand held were ok as my body/arms etc absorbed the vibrations. The only time the tripod was usable for some reason was as the ferry entered harbour with the engines on idle (well, slow)!
Oviously I dont know the vessel you will be on but worth a timely caution!
Click to expand...

yeah, thanks. I had thought about that, and am planning on doing any shooting from our balcony hand held.

It is, however, a massive ship. A new cruiseliner with it's maiden voyage next month. My parents have been on one similar, and said you don't even notice half the time that you're on a ship, so would be interesting to see just how many vibrations are felt/noticed when using a tripod
 
NikonSimon said:
thanks for all the helpful responses here guys.

What make would you say is best for quality vs price? For example, Jacobs do a 'Cokin for Jacobs' range, which is their base range, followed by Hoya, Hoya Pro and Hoya HD. I've also read good things about B&W, but I think I'm right in saying these are quite pricey?
Click to expand...

I would get the best polariser you can, because you'll probably be using it a lot. I use one pretty much all the time and for that reason have a Hoya HD because it only reduces exposure by 1.2 stops - most are nearer to 2 stops. It is also very high quality, as are Hoya Pro-1.

I use a B+W 502 ND 2-stops soft-cut grad. It's a screw-in which some folks say is less controllable but I disgree - you can control the effect a lot with f/number and move the position of the line by recomposing and cropping. Not ideal maybe but it saves fiddling about with a square filter system, and when all's said and done, HDR technique is often the best option.
 
HoppyUK said:
I would get the best polariser you can, because you'll probably be using it a lot. I use one pretty much all the time and for that reason have a Hoya HD because it only reduces exposure by 1.2 stops - most are nearer to 2 stops. It is also very high quality, as are Hoya Pro-1.

I use a B+W 502 ND 2-stops soft-cut grad. It's a screw-in which some folks say is less controllable but I disgree - you can control the effect a lot with f/number and move the position of the line by recomposing and cropping. Not ideal maybe but it saves fiddling about with a square filter system, and when all's said and done, HDR technique is often the best option.
Click to expand...

how much would I be looking at for a top notch Circ.P then?

*braces himself*
 
NikonSimon said:
how much would I be looking at for a top notch Circ.P then?

*braces himself*
Click to expand...

Depends a lot on the size. I think my 77mm Hoya HD was about £80 - Amazon are usually cheapest. Multi-coating is usually an indicator of good quality.
 
HoppyUK said:
Depends a lot on the size. I think my 77mm Hoya HD was about £80 - Amazon are usually cheapest. Multi-coating is usually an indicator of good quality.
Click to expand...

not as bad as I thought it was going to be actually.

why are circ.pols so tricky to use on wide angle lenses then?

also, am I right in saying you're meant to use them at 90degs to the sun, so shooting with one at midday would be tricky as the sun is right above you?
 
NikonSimon said:
It is, however, a massive ship. A new cruiseliner with it's maiden voyage next month. My parents have been on one similar, and said you don't even notice half the time that you're on a ship, so would be interesting to see just how many vibrations are felt/noticed when using a tripod
Click to expand...

I went on a cruise on my honeymoon and used my tripod on our balcony. I didn't have any problems, even when the ship was moving. It was summer though, and quite bright, so shutter speeds were fast.

The only time I can imagine that this wouldn't apply is if the light is low, or you're darkening the scene with filters and your shutter speeds drop low enough that the movement of the ship causes a bit of blur.

I didn't notice any vibrations but I was at the fore of the ship, it was the Cunard Queen Victoria.
 
NikonSimon said:
not as bad as I thought it was going to be actually.

why are circ.pols so tricky to use on wide angle lenses then?

also, am I right in saying you're meant to use them at 90degs to the sun, so shooting with one at midday would be tricky as the sun is right above you?
Click to expand...

Polarisers are not tricky to use with wide lenses as such. It's just that they have an optimum angle of polarisation where the sky is darkened most and with a wide field of view there is such a large expanse of sky that you can see the band and the slightly lighter effect either side of it.

You can work out where it will be by forming a right angle with your finger and thumb. Point your thumb directly at the sun and rotate it while still pointing at the sun - your finger will indicate where the band appears across the sky.

I don't think it is much of a problem to be honest. There are often clouds which break up the sky so it's not noticeable, or you can rotate the filter to reduce it, or zoom in a bit to cut out the lighter parts. You can always just take it off!

I only notice it at this time of the year when the sun is low. When the sun is directly above, if you do the finger and thumb thing you can tell that the band will be horizontal right across the sky and even from side to side, fading from top to bottom. It usually looks just like a grad effect :thumbs:
 
Hey Simon,

I found this thread while looking for answers to the same question, thanks for asking. I guess your going on the Azura, we are off to the Baltics in her end of May, cant wait!! :cool::cool::cool:
 
crispypie said:
Hey Simon,

I found this thread while looking for answers to the same question, thanks for asking. I guess your going on the Azura, we are off to the Baltics in her end of May, cant wait!! :cool::cool::cool:
Click to expand...

How spooky. We are indeed on the Azura, in June to the Fjords.

Will be very interested to hear what the ship is like!
 
Check and see if your Nikon 18-70mm lens has a VR mode switch. On some VR lenses, you get an additional VR mode switch for Normal or Active. There is a VR mode switch on a Nikon 70-300 VR but not on the 18-105 VR kit lens.
I've not been in a position to use it, but I read that the 'Active' VR mode is meant for such a condition if you are on a moving platform like a boat etc.
 
I've actually just upgraded from the 18-70mm, to a 16-85, as I thought it was a more versatile 'walkabout' lens. It is VR, and the mode is on normal ;)

Need to get rid of my 18-70 now
 
ok, next question.

I've now got a much better understanding of filters having read this thread, the helpful link posted further up, and the other thread in the 'equipment' section.

It's obvious that I need ND Grads, but would also like a standard ND too, and a CP. The lens I have at the moment (16-85mm) has a 67mm thread, and the UWAs I'm looking at getting (though not defintely as I may just stick with the 16-85mm for the landscape shots) are 77mm.

It seems crazy to get filters for both lens, effectively doubling the cost, and I like the idea of being able to add and takeaway filters as I please, so it seems a set of square filters is the way to go. Is this the preferred option amongst others on here, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Will I have issues with a filter holder on an UWA?

Essentially, what I'm asking is if it's possible to have a filter holder that I can switch across lenses, or is this not possible?

Next up is make. I've checked out Hitech filters, but they are wildly expensive. I know know, you get what you pay for, but as I'm currently saving for a potential UWA lens, I just can't justify spending hundreds on a Hitech filter set. I know Lee do one, but the backlog is massive, so I've read on here. What is the Cokin one like? I notice they do one at Warehouse express for less than £50.

Sorry again for the long post, but I guess this is what forums are for! I wouldn't have this outlet and chance to quiz people ordinarily so all of a sudden I find myself pouring questions out all the time!

p.s. if there's anyone in South London willing to 'take me under their wing' so I don't have to bore others with long, question filled posts, that would be marvellous

Cheers
Simon
 
NikonSimon said:
ok, next question.

I've now got a much better understanding of filters having read this thread, the helpful link posted further up, and the other thread in the 'equipment' section.

It's obvious that I need ND Grads, but would also like a standard ND too, and a CP. The lens I have at the moment (16-85mm) has a 67mm thread, and the UWAs I'm looking at getting (though not defintely as I may just stick with the 16-85mm for the landscape shots) are 77mm.

It seems crazy to get filters for both lens, effectively doubling the cost, and I like the idea of being able to add and takeaway filters as I please, so it seems a set of square filters is the way to go. Is this the preferred option amongst others on here, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Will I have issues with a filter holder on an UWA?

Essentially, what I'm asking is if it's possible to have a filter holder that I can switch across lenses, or is this not possible?....
Click to expand...

I have lenses that are 67mm and 62mm.

I only use 67mm filters these days and use a 62-67mm step-up ring to adapt them for use on the lenses that take 62mm filters. Not only does it save quite a few bob (considering the price of Hoya Pro's, B+W's, etc) it also, imo, makes sense from the perspective of what quantity of kit you carry about.
 
NikonSimon said:
ok, next question.
Click to expand...

Hi Simon,

At this stage it may be wise to think about getting 77mm filters if you are thinking about getting a UWA soon - I have one lens with a 67mm thread so just use a step up ring from 67-77 which cost less than a tenner on eBay. That way if you get a nice polarizer etc you won't have to buy another one if/when you get a UWA.

As for NDs - well at this stage Cokin's are good to learn with. I had a 0.6 soft with holder and 77mm adaptor ring which cost about £40. I'd highly advise getting the wide angle Cokin filter holder as the standard one is in view below 13mm or so. The only problem is you can only have one filter... However this isn't always a bad thing as the Cokin NDs have a horrid magenta colour cast so I'd keep well clear of them.

You can switch the filter holder for the NDs across lenses by buying the correct mounting ring.

Lee's are the best filters to get but are expensive (I dread to think how much I have spent recently) and they are incredibly hard to get hold of at present (mind you I just bought a new 0.6 hard easily).

Hope this helps.
Good luck!

Stu

PS. A link to my Cokin ND set on flickr if it helps
 
stumeech said:
Hi Simon,

At this stage it may be wise to think about getting 77mm filters if you are thinking about getting a UWA soon - I have one lens with a 67mm thread so just use a step up ring from 67-77 which cost less than a tenner on eBay. That way if you get a nice polarizer etc you won't have to buy another one if/when you get a UWA.

As for NDs - well at this stage Cokin's are good to learn with. I had a 0.6 soft with holder and 77mm adaptor ring which cost about £40. I'd highly advise getting the wide angle Cokin filter holder as the standard one is in view below 13mm or so. The only problem is you can only have one filter... However this isn't always a bad thing as the Cokin NDs have a horrid magenta colour cast so I'd keep well clear of them.

You can switch the filter holder for the NDs across lenses by buying the correct mounting ring.

Lee's are the best filters to get but are expensive (I dread to think how much I have spent recently) and they are incredibly hard to get hold of at present (mind you I just bought a new 0.6 hard easily).

Hope this helps.
Good luck!

Stu

PS. A link to my Cokin ND set on flickr if it helps
Click to expand...

Really helpful Stu, thanks.

couple of questions for you, you said Cokin ND's are a good place to start, but then said you'd stay well clear as they have a colour cast? Do you think I should look elsewhere then?

Also, your link has got some cracking photo's in there, taken with the camera I currently have (D40x). I noticed you have since replaced them with Lee filters. Have you sold your cokin set? Or would you be looking to sell them?

Sorry, being a bit dense and simplistic now.. are you suggesting a round, screw in polarizer, and then a filter holder with square filters for NDs and Grads? Apologies for the questions, I just want to make sure I'm understanding everything correctly

Many thanks for your help

Simon
 
Sorry Simon, I should have said Cokin ND grads are a good place to start. The 2 stop grads are fine to start with.

As for the filters, I have binned them as they are covered in scratches. If I can find the holder + 77mm ring I could have my arm twisted in popping them in the post in a 'rather they went to a good home than in the bin fashion'.

Yeah a round polarizer and then a set of square filters (well the grads are more rectangular) for ND/grads.

Cheers

Stu
 
stumeech said:
Sorry Simon, I should have said Cokin ND grads are a good place to start. The 2 stop grads are fine to start with.

As for the filters, I have binned them as they are covered in scratches. If I can find the holder + 77mm ring I could have my arm twisted in popping them in the post in a 'rather they went to a good home than in the bin fashion'.

Yeah a round polarizer and then a set of square filters (well the grads are more rectangular) for ND/grads.

Cheers

Stu
Click to expand...

Hi Stu,

That would be really helpful. Thanks. I'd be happy to pay for them rather than you getting nothing for it

Simon
 
Right. I'm dead set on square/rectangular filters.

Looked at the Cokin wideangle holder to being with, but then noticed that companies like LEE and Hitech make holders too.

The other thing is size. I think the standard Cokin ones are 80-something mm, but the Cokin PRO ones, and Hitech and LEE ones, come in 100mm sizes too.

What differences do these sizes make? Obviously, I know it means bigger glass, and that you can get some 100x150 grads. Does this just give more adaptability with how high up or down you can place the 'horizon'?

Any further help gratfully received

p.s. oh oh, also wondering about UV filters. How do they work with filter holders? I always have a UV filter screwed onto my lens
 
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