Help Needed on toning down flash reflection

[Jim_Tod]

Need to try and tone down the flash reflection from the wall.

Have LR and CS5 and can use a bit but would really appreciate some advice from those who know better which are the tools best suited to this type of work. I'm happy to spend a bit of time on this to get it right as its important to me


I know the real answer is to be far enough away to avoid the reflection but this was the blandest wall and space was limited and they've now gone their ways across the Uk and it might be a few years before they're in the same room again. Thanks

 

[Phil V]

Mask them and clone it.

And the answer isn't changing the flash distance, it's changing the angle. Light bounces like a snooker ball

 

[Jim_Tod]

Mask them and clone it.

And the answer isn't changing the flash distance, it's changing the angle. Light bounces like a snooker ball

Thanks- will give it a try- appreciate the advice on the flash also- mainly street or landscape for me so this people and flash is fairly new

 

[Riaz Ahmed]

I always struggle with the flash.

Its hit and miss

 

[Phil V]

If you send me a high res version I'll sort it for you. The version here is too small to refine the edge on

 

[Phil V]

I always struggle with the flash.

Its hit and miss

Flash is fairly predictable, so long as you nail down the physics first.

People who don't 'get it' often keep looking for times when the laws of physics break down [

3 rules:
1. As above, light bounces off an object at the same angle it hits it (like a snooker ball off a cushion)
2. The larger the light source, the softer the light (but that's apparent size, so even a huge softbox will become a point light source from a large distance)
3. The further the distance between light and subject the more power is required, referred to as the inverse square law, double the distance means quadruple the required power

6 tips:
1. There's only 1 sun, so no matter how complicated your scene, no matter how many lights, there is only one key-light (main light), set that first, then consider what to add.
2. We expect light to come from above the subject (the sun again) the biggest newbie mistake is a light too low
3. The flash doesn't have to move off camera to get your 'light source' off camera - bouncing off walls, ceilings, reflectors or anything handy can move a light source
4. When mixing flash and ambient - remember to consider them as two distinctly separate exposures. And decide how you're treating the ambient before you think about the flash power.
5. If flash is your primary light source - always shoot Manual
6. ETTL for dynamic situations, Manual for static

 

[Jim_Tod]

If you send me a high res version I'll sort it for you. The version here is too small to refine the edge on

Phil- that's an extremely kind offer- I've made a schoolboy error tonight in that I work away from home and this is on my server at home and not backed up onto the HD I take away with me and I wont be home for another 10 days. I will try to talk my wife through getting this off the server and emailed to me to send on in the next couple of days. Really appreciate the offer.

 

[Kodiak Qc]

And the answer isn't changing the flash distance, it's changing the angle. Light bounces like a snooker ball

•


+1

No recovery possible the area is burnt. Healing
or cloning is a better approach.

This was done inside my RAW converter in about
2 min. or less using two healing layers:

 

[Jim_Tod]

This was done inside my RAW converter in about
2 min. or less using two healing layers:

Wow

In the interests of trying to become better at this- when you say 2 healing layers, can you explain a little more what that means- sorry to be a pest

 

[Kodiak Qc]

•

The quest for knowledge makes no one a pest…
except at 2 in the night! ;-) See PM!