help getting the flash off the camera

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How do you use 3 flashes all off on the camera?

I have looked at the strobist website and my brain is fried. But I think I 'might' have it and need calcification before I buy anything else.

I have a D5000 & 1 SB 700

I figured I need a iTTL lead to get it from the camera to the first flash (sb-700) then connect a pc cord from the sb-700 to the 2nd flash
Then a pc cord from the 2nd flash to the 3rd flash

Is that correct?

I did look at cheap transmitters & receivers but I think these only fire the flashes in manual.

Also have I made a mistake buying a flash without a pc port or are the adaptors which fit the bottom of the flash to connect to a pc cable ok to use.

lastly, I have not yet brought flash 2&3 and was thinking of buying a couple of cheap 3rd party flashes for fill light and background light. Would this then mean I would have to run all the flashes in manual mode?

And should di return the sb 700 and just buy 3 third party flashes

(ok this really is lastly) is flash on manual mode as daunting as it sounds, or should I just jump into it and fit some cheap receiver’s to them and not have cables everywhere?

Sorry for all the questions but I am a bit confused and dont want to waste money buying the wrong kit for it not to work.
 
I've suggested this be moved to the talk lighting section as more people that can help will see it, I believe you will need to look at triggers :thumbs: but am a right noob as lighting with OCF

Matt
MWHCVT
 
You can sync up flashes in various ways, but what do you want to do (typical scenario) and what's your budget?
 
Sync cables will be the cheapest when working with the single unit and still allow TTL if desired, however when using strobes being in full manual is much better. If you want to use PC cable then you can buy an adaptor for not much money. When using 2 or 3 units I would be going for a good trigger system..... good, doesn't have to mean expensive, you can get the Y....... (not sure what they are called) 602 units pretty cheaply, for not too much more you can get the better Cactus v5 triggers, or you can go up to the crazy money of pocket wizards.

As has already been asked what are you really looking at doing? In honesty, I usually keep things simple when shooting portraits outdoors and 1 flash with shoot through brolly is enough, sometimes I bring in a bit of fill from another to help with the ratio but rarely as I don't have time at most weddings to play around too much..... note to self, get an assistant who can sort all that out for me :)
 
Buy a set of cheap triggers (RF602 or similar) and learn to shoot with the flashes in manual, the set-up you're suggesting is overly complicated. If you're new to all this, start off with just one flash and add more once you've mastered shooting with that....
 
Thanks for the help so far folks.

The problem is have is i read too much on the internet and don't spend enough time doing! Then get myself confused in a the jargon.

anyway what I want to achieve picture wise at the moment is a soft porn type pic where there is soft lighting on one side of the model and almost black on the other. And it just shows an outline of flesh without showing anymore.

I hope that makes sense.
 
Thanks for the help so far folks.

The problem is have is i read too much on the internet and don't spend enough time doing! Then get myself confused in a the jargon.

anyway what I want to achieve picture wise at the moment is a soft porn type pic where there is soft lighting on one side of the model and almost black on the other. And it just shows an outline of flesh without showing anymore.

I hope that makes sense.

Buy yourself a copy of "Light-Science and Magic" and have a read at that....
 
Flash In The Pan said:
Buy yourself a copy of "Light-Science and Magic" and have a read at that....

Thanks, looks like that's just what I need.

Just ordered a copy.
 
If you are in the studio (or the equivalent of a studio) then the rule is to "shoot manual". Studio strobes are manual.

Wires/cables in the studio are too restricting - you will trip over them at some point. Radio triggers are much better. I use RF-602s, but a simple IR trigger would work just as well inside.

Try working with one light to start with and then build up your lighting later as you gain experience.
 
How do you use 3 flashes all off on the camera?

I have looked at the strobist website and my brain is fried. But I think I 'might' have it and need calcification before I buy anything else.

I have a D5000 & 1 SB 700

I figured I need a iTTL lead to get it from the camera to the first flash (sb-700) then connect a pc cord from the sb-700 to the 2nd flash
Then a pc cord from the 2nd flash to the 3rd flash

Is that correct?

I wouldn't bother with daisy-chaining - it means you have wires all over and although hardwiring is generally reliable, it means you are effectively tethered the flash units so movement has to mirror how far you can be from the flashguns.

I did look at cheap transmitters & receivers but I think these only fire the flashes in manual.

Cheap trigger sets just do manual (although some, like the Strato, has a TTL pass-through on them so you can mount a TTL flash on top of the trigger and it'll use TTL exposure)


Also have I made a mistake buying a flash without a pc port or are the adaptors which fit the bottom of the flash to connect to a pc cable ok to use.

No mistake - the PC adaptors are fine and most trigger system these days fit on the hotshoe, so no issues there.

lastly, I have not yet brought flash 2&3 and was thinking of buying a couple of cheap 3rd party flashes for fill light and background light. Would this then mean I would have to run all the flashes in manual mode?

If you're going down the trigger route (strato, RF603 etc) then yes, manual only useage.

And should di return the sb 700 and just buy 3 third party flashes

I'd keep at least one fully functioning TTl flashgun for use on-camera when you're shotting mobile for example.

(ok this really is lastly) is flash on manual mode as daunting as it sounds, or should I just jump into it and fit some cheap receiver’s to them and not have cables everywhere?

No, it's not hard, although the trigger option is easier, more flexible and probably cheaper.

Sorry for all the questions but I am a bit confused and dont want to waste money buying the wrong kit for it not to work.

No worries - plenty of good advice here already and probably more to come :)

I think many people feel it's daunting because it's all new kit they have to invest in and the fact you're introducing one or more new light sources into a shot can seem mind-blowing but it's all a process of elimination, i.e. working out what each light does individually, how it contributes to the overall exposure, what exposure values you input and how they will affect the flash, and how the flash works with any ambient light.

Keep on looking at strobist 101 and it'll click :thumbs:
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the help so far folks.

The problem is have is i read too much on the internet and don't spend enough time doing! Then get myself confused in a the jargon.

anyway what I want to achieve picture wise at the moment is a soft porn type pic where there is soft lighting on one side of the model and almost black on the other. And it just shows an outline of flesh without showing anymore.

I hope that makes sense.

Some good advice here, but if this is what you want to do, and will presumably have access to mains power, then you'll be much better off with studio lights.

You can do a lot with hot shoe guns, but their main virtue is small size and mobility. Apart from that, studio lights beat them on everything - power, recycle time, and modelling light.

For that kind of shot, where subtle positioning is everything, you will find a modelling light invaluable. I'm not sure why you want three, though. Start with just one and a reflector - you can do a heck of a lot with one light - and build from there one step at a time. If you start by firing up all there, with no experience, you will get in a right pickle ;)

Anyway, look at studio lights. They are not as expensive as you maybe think, often cheaper than hot shoe guns - like £300 for a two-head Lencarta Smarflash kit, including stands and brollies and triggers etc etc http://www.lencarta.com/lighting-store/flash-heads/flash-heads-1/twin-head-mains-powered-starter-kit A single head is only a hundred quid. Other good brands tend to be a bit more expensive, but not much.

A good combo (which I often use) is a couple of studio heads plus hot shoe gun/s. They sing well together and the hot shoe jobbie is fine as an effects light where it's other drawback don't matter. Get a good iTTL one though, as that will be so useful for 101 other things.
 
Buy a set of cheap triggers (RF602 or similar) and learn to shoot with the flashes in manual, the set-up you're suggesting is overly complicated. If you're new to all this, start off with just one flash and add more once you've mastered shooting with that....

Thanks, i have orderd a set.

You and many others are right i am trying to do too much to soon.

I am going to satrt with just 1 flash and see how i get on.

If you are in the studio (or the equivalent of a studio) then the rule is to "shoot manual". Studio strobes are manual.

Wires/cables in the studio are too restricting - you will trip over them at some point. Radio triggers are much better. I use RF-602s, but a simple IR trigger would work just as well inside.

Try working with one light to start with and then build up your lighting later as you gain experience.

I'd keep at least one fully functioning TTl flashgun for use on-camera when you're shotting mobile for example.


I think many people feel it's daunting because it's all new kit they have to invest in and the fact you're introducing one or more new light sources into a shot can seem mind-blowing but it's all a process of elimination, i.e. working out what each light does individually, how it contributes to the overall exposure, what exposure values you input and how they will affect the flash, and how the flash works with any ambient light.

Keep on looking at strobist 101 and it'll click :thumbs:

Some good advice here, but if this is what you want to do, and will presumably have access to mains power, then you'll be much better off with studio lights.

You can do a lot with hot shoe guns, but their main virtue is small size and mobility. Apart from that, studio lights beat them on everything - power, recycle time, and modelling light.

For that kind of shot, where subtle positioning is everything, you will find a modelling light invaluable. I'm not sure why you want three, though. Start with just one and a reflector - you can do a heck of a lot with one light - and build from there one step at a time. If you start by firing up all there, with no experience, you will get in a right pickle ;)

Anyway, look at studio lights. They are not as expensive as you maybe think, often cheaper than hot shoe guns - like £300 for a two-head Lencarta Smarflash kit, including stands and brollies and triggers etc etc http://www.lencarta.com/lighting-store/flash-heads/flash-heads-1/twin-head-mains-powered-starter-kit A single head is only a hundred quid. Other good brands tend to be a bit more expensive, but not much.

A good combo (which I often use) is a couple of studio heads plus hot shoe gun/s. They sing well together and the hot shoe jobbie is fine as an effects light where it's other drawback don't matter. Get a good iTTL one though, as that will be so useful for 101 other things.

Thanks every one for the detailed replies you have given me,

Some really helpful stuff. I am now less confused.

I did consider a studio unit, but would like to also use it while out and about.

I have now brought an umbrella (2in1) which is both shoot through and reflective

A stand

A wireless trigger system

5in1 reflector

iTTL lead when I want the flash to talk with the camera

a flash adaptor to fit on top of the light stand.

I am going to leave it at that for now and see how I get on with it.

I was trying to run before I could walk.
 
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