Beginner Help Choosing Please

kevinp

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My first DSLR was a Nikon D3100, I learned a little but mostly used I in auto. So still a beginner really.
Need another to mainly take photos at Dog Shows, like Crufts etc. Would like to stay with Nikon.
Been reading reviews etc the last couple of weeks and whittled it down to these three. D3300. D5500. D7200.
Please help me Choose.
Thanks Kevin
 
I think that as you only shoot in auto you should just stay with your d3100 and practise with it more, maybe using shutter priority mode to ease you in.

For a beginner the d3100 is still a good camera.
 
My first DSLR was a Nikon D3100, I learned a little but mostly used I in auto. So still a beginner really.
Need another to mainly take photos at Dog Shows, like Crufts etc. Would like to stay with Nikon.
Been reading reviews etc the last couple of weeks and whittled it down to these three. D3300. D5500. D7200.
Please help me Choose.
Thanks Kevin

Hi Kevin

Can't help you directly with the Nikon bodies as I'm Canon bod, but I would as what do you find limiting with your previous body / what do you want the new one to do ?

Budget obviously pays a part, but I would have thought the D7000 range would have been the biggest improvement / upgrade over your previous model, if you are going to buy another one...
 
Agreed, changing the camera won't really improve anything. Better lenses and, most importantly, learning how to use the camera properly (ie. not on auto) would be a better place to start.
 
Sounds like Kevin doesn't own the D3100 any longer. If you're on auto while you still had it, I'd look at either of the D3*** or D5*** models. Perhaps even used with a decent telephoto lens for the dog show?

What's your budget?
 
Haven't you got another similar thread running already? If you're still shooting in auto then a body upgrade isn't really going to improve your images tbh, you'd be better off spending your time learning rather than looking at cameras IMO. As far as image quality is concerned they are all going to be pretty similar (maybe a tiny bit less noise on some) it's mainly features that are different (such as more advanced focus systems) so if you're only shooting in auto then they're kind of wasted. A decent lens may be a wiser investment, although I'd strongly recommend learning exposure as the bare minimum so you're not shooting in auto.
 
Sounds like Kevin doesn't own the D3100 any longer. If you're on auto while you still had it, I'd look at either of the D3*** or D5*** models. Perhaps even used with a decent telephoto lens for the dog show?

What's your budget?
I don't have the D3100 I did learn a little from it and will probably remember when I get another. Budget, could probably push to the price of the D7200, but is it worth getting one of the cheaper ones and maybe another lens?
 
I don't have the D3100 I did learn a little from it and will probably remember when I get another. Budget, could probably push to the price of the D7200, but is it worth getting one of the cheaper ones and maybe another lens?

It depends on if you A) know how to use it and B) you have the lenses that will do what you want. Seriously, the body isn't that important.
 
I have got another thread on this but I am finding really hard to decide, Not used a camera for a couple of years since I had the d3100, so putting myself back in the beginners section again and really need to learn more. Back then my main use was of dogs and horses out hunting and learned a bit about shutter speeds etc for fast moving objects.
 
Stick with your camera and move on to the creative modes app, tv and manual modes. Start thinking of shooting in raw and then move onto another camera. Good luck
 
D3300 to D7200 is a big leap.

Maybe D5300 / D5500 and a lens.

I agree :) but most importantly learn how to use the camera, there are so many free tutorials online - make use of them :)
 
I agree :) but most importantly learn how to use the camera, there are so many free tutorials online - make use of them :)

Then there is this forum. Iv'e had a ton of help and have improved alot thanks to the help on here.I have a D3200 and will upgrade when I am 100% confident with it.
 
To be brutally honest, if you are 're-starting', there wasn't, and still isn't a heck of a lot wrong with the D3100, and if you only ever used it as a big Point & Shoot, on green-box auto (and not a lot wrong with that!), it would still offer a hell of a lot before any short-coming in it's spec started to hamper you!

I have bought two D3100's, both 2nd hand, in the last year, one for my daughter finishing her O-Level & starting her A-Level Photo-courses, other for my O/H feeling left out and after using Daughter's wanting to step up from a bridge to the 'same'. I have a D3200, that's three years old now, and bought 'over' the better value D3100 'new' only because I had aspirations to go fishing.... use a fish-eye lens, which makes 'round' pictures in the middle of the frame, 'wasting' about a third to a half of the pixels; hence the higher pixel count was likely to be useful when I came to manipulate such shots in post-process. However, remarkable degree of 'sophistication' in these 'entry-level' cameras is fantastic, and from my stand-point, the 'extra' packed into the higher level 'enthusiast' DSLR's would pretty much be wasted even on me as a more clued up enthusiast, for a lot of the time, if not most of it!

For a beginner, or a re-starting one, the entry-level models are bang on the money, for money and features, and I really don't see much point recommending paying extra for the next 'upgrade' camera body, you may never find you need or want, and is likely been replaced in the range with something with even more whistles and bells by the time you do need or want one. Of choices, I would suggest the D3300 is the exact gear for the gig, here; while if you chance on a 'deal' over a D3200, you would still be well set, while if you want to put pennies to better use, going second hand a D3200 or even another D3100 would STILL be more than enough to do the job.... and I would put more though and more money into the lens to go with it.....

I find the 'kit' 18-55 on my D3200 more than 'adequate' 90% or more of the time, and tends to be my most used lens, but on the higher pixel count D3200 I do think that the resolution of the camera is starting to show the limits of resolution of the kit lenses, and the higher still resolution of the D3300 is likely to only make that more so. Using 'legacy' lenses from old film cameras on it, has supported the suggestion. Hence for my daughter's academic endevours, I partnered her D3100 with the 35mm f1.8 'prime' that offers the same field of view as a 'nifty-fifty' on an old 35mm film camera, sacrificing zoom and image stabilization for image quality and a faster fastest aperture, for shallow Depth of Field effects and a brighter view-finder. Putting that lens on my camera, (when she'd let go of it long enough!) Again supported suggestion that at that level its the lens that's the weak-link, not the camera body.

STILL, 18-55 is still my most-used lens, and I live quite happily with its 'short-comings' for the convenience it offers and the 'cheapness'... essentially 'free' with the body, where anything else is as much as another camera! With the 55-300 I have a huge range of focal lengths available, but again, the 'kit' level 55-300 is still out-stripped by the camera body and legacy lenses in teh same focal length range. And for what I use most often in that lens, to be perfectly honest, the 55-200 would not be much of a sacrifice and save even more pennies, while for convenience, the 'do-it-all' 18-140, is awfully 'tempting'.

BUT, that is where I would save your deliberations for; picking the lens or lenses that are likely to be most 'useful' for you, NOT worrying over the bamboozeling and increasingly irrelevant differences in 'spec' between more or less expensive camera bodies.

IF you start to expand your use over what you used to, then it's likely that whatever subjects start to interest you will beg more specialist lenses than a 'kit' 18-55 or 18-140, I would suggest as fair enough start point, so save your cash for them, when buying a Siggy 70-300 for birding or getting a Tokina 10-24 for land-scapes or street photography, or a Nikkor 85mm prime for portraits, will be begging big spend, and saving £100 or more on not over-buying a body, could be the difference between getting such a lens or not... and Glass-Lasts! bodies don't! So spend as little as you can get away with on the body, and put cash towards the lenses you want or may want to go with it... or whatever body you buy in the future. Here and now, though, choice of body isn't that big a deal, don't sweat it.

Remember, better photographers take better pictures, not better cameras.... you want to get on the learning curve with something that will help you become a better photographer, you don't 'need' much more than the basics right now to do that, and becoming a better photographer from it, you'll still get better pictures even with just 'the basics' and knowing how to get the best from it, than having a better camera, and not knowing how to get the best from it.
 
It depends on if you A) know how to use it and B) you have the lenses that will do what you want. Seriously, the body isn't that important.
That's debateable tbh. For sports photographers and some wildlife photographers the autofocus system is vitally important, the difference between a 70% hit rate and 95% hit rate for example can be huge for some people. Likewise, for wedding togs who shoot a lot in churches they wouldn't like having a body that starts to show bad noise at 1600 ISO.
 
Thanks Everyone, I understand about what most of you are saying about sticking with the cheaper camera to start and spending more money on lenses.
I'm thinking that if I go for the cheaper body, then at some point I will have to change to a better one as I learn along the way, so I may as well go for the more dearer / better body now that will last me for years to come.
Anyway still not quite decided yet.
I have a lot to learn and am determined to keep it out of auto so will be asking for a lot more help and advice.
 
Thanks Everyone, I understand about what most of you are saying about sticking with the cheaper camera to start and spending more money on lenses.
I'm thinking that if I go for the cheaper body, then at some point I will have to change to a better one as I learn along the way, so I may as well go for the more dearer / better body now that will last me for years to come.
Sounds sensible to me tbh, providing it's something you're sure you will keep up with. Also, if you buy 2nd hand you'll not lose as much if/when you upgrade or just change when you learn what functions etc are important to you.
Anyway still not quite decided yet.
I have a lot to learn and am determined to keep it out of auto so will be asking for a lot more help and advice.
Ask away, always plenty of helpful folk on here from my experience.
 
I'm thinking that if I go for the cheaper body, then at some point I will have to change to a better one ...
I don't think that makes sense ... for you, right now.
Let's imagine you ask about what's the best lens in a certain budget for your specified task,
and you get a couple of answers.
You find the price of a suitable lens then come back and ask what body will do well enough to get the shots using that lens in that situation.
You might never need to upgrade your body if it does the job.
Every single budget model contains a really excellent sensor these days, the differences may have more to do with how they behave with your chosen lens.
 
I don't think that makes sense ... for you, right now.
Let's imagine you ask about what's the best lens in a certain budget for your specified task,
and you get a couple of answers.
You find the price of a suitable lens then come back and ask what body will do well enough to get the shots using that lens in that situation.
You might never need to upgrade your body if it does the job.
Every single budget model contains a really excellent sensor these days, the differences may have more to do with how they behave with your chosen lens.
That was going to be my next question after id bought he body, to start I really need a decent lens with a bit of zoom for low light situations like large indoor dog shows, any ideas ??
Think I'm back to square 1 now.
 
Thinking of
1 D3300 with kit lens 18/55 vr plus 35mm f1.8 which ive heard so many great comments about, and maybe 50/200mm vr zoom.
2 D5500 with kit lens plus 35mm f1.8
3 D7200 with kit lens 18/104mm vr,
Theirs cash back on the first two and free battery grip with 3.
 
If you want to take photos indoors of animals you need to have fast glass - the classic choice would be a 70-200 f/2.8. There are plenty different varieties around but on the lower end Nikon bodies you will need to make sure it has an inbuilt motor (Nikon AFS, Sigma HSM)
 
If you want to take photos indoors of animals you need to have fast glass - the classic choice would be a 70-200 f/2.8. There are plenty different varieties around but on the lower end Nikon bodies you will need to make sure it has an inbuilt motor (Nikon AFS, Sigma HSM)
This lens is about my full budget without body if that's what it costs to get good photos think its time to think about another hobby.
 
You are trying to get the 'most' out of a finance deal, and have been consistently pushing the budget 'up' to try and cover all possible bases of where your photography might go, to geit it all in that one time 'deal'. As advice in your other thread... think very hard about the finance!
You could get a 2nd hand D3100 like you had before, and a very useful 'do-it-all' 18-140 lens for it, 2nd hand 'all in' for about £250.
And you could get that for saving up what you don't spend on 'credit' repayments on what you are looking at for a couple of months till the show season starts! Or buy it on a credit card, or a bank-loan or or or...
The 18-200VR, is a 'kit' long lens. Again very useful bit of glass, BUT, just to get 'more' reach in the bag ASAP, its not a great choice. IF you start getting any 'use' out of one, its likely to be limited, and merely show how 'wrong' it is for the job, and a better 70-300 the 'right' tool.
Yes, the 35mm f1.8 is a fantastic lens. Likelihood you would appreciate it very soon is mutable, ad again, IF you got use out of it, likely to show up that the 50mm f1/8 is i fact more sutable, OR the other way, neither is, and what you'd be better off with is a UWA.
Meanwhile, you are deliberating and ruminating over this and getting no-where, other than ramping the drama with the size of the credit plan, looking to buy ever more and more expensive gear, tryng to make a 'safer' bet. But the safe bet is always No-Bet....
Dropp the drama, lower the stakes... WHAT can you do on a budget that's not made as alarming as it is elastic by credit!?
Think hard on the suggestion of that 2nd Hand D3100 and a kit 18-55 for £150 cheaps, or an 18-140 for extended range £250 'VFM' both 'toe-in-the-water' suck it and see least cost, least risk, see how you get , and WHAT when you have had a go, would be the 'best' or 'ideal' gear to aim for later.
 
I'm afraid that's the rub. You could try a slow lens such as the 55-200VR (which is actually a nice lens for what it is) but you might well end up disappointed.

Indoor arenas aren't that well lit and even with an f/2.8 lens you will often need ISO3200 or 6400 to get high enough shutter speeds for moving animals. The 55-200 has a largest aperture of f/5.6 which is two stops slower so in order to compensate you would need an ISO of 12800 or 25600!!
 
This lens is about my full budget without body if that's what it costs to get good photos think its time to think about another hobby.
Yes, that sounds like a good idea. Give up now.

Alternatively you could try to be creative. OK, the *ideal* glass for dog shows might be a 70-200mm f/2.8 and your budget doesn't stretch that far. So what options are there? Zoom lenses that aren't f/2.8 are *much* cheaper. How would that limit you? Think about it. Also, fast prime lenses can be quite inexpensive. What could you do with, for example, an 85mm f/1.8?

You might not be able to take all the same photos that all the other guys with the 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses take, but do you really *want* to take all the same photos that all the other guys take? Sometimes, having great that isn't quite good enough forces you to think more about what you're doing, and the results can be more satisfying.
 
Thinking of
1 D3300 with kit lens 18/55 vr plus 35mm f1.8 which ive heard so many great comments about, and maybe 50/200mm vr zoom.
2 D5500 with kit lens plus 35mm f1.8
3 D7200 with kit lens 18/104mm vr,
Theirs cash back on the first two and free battery grip with 3.
Here you go, this is what folk are telling you about the cameras, as you can see between these there's very little it in in terms of out and out image quality. So for example if the same person took the same static shot of the same subject under the same conditions with the same lens the images produced by all 3 will pretty much look identical.

Screen%20Shot%202016-01-11%20at%2020.15.26_zpst69nryqa.png


All you are paying for with the D7200 is build, better autofocus system, and a few other bits and bobs such as the ability to micro adjust lenses (not sure if the D5500 can do this too). So if all that you are interested in is IQ then you may as well stick with the D3300. If you feel that an advanced AF system, or weather sealing etc is something that will be of use to you at some point then it may be worth considering. One other thing to consider it that the D7200 doesn't have a tilt screen (bizarre omission imo) whereas I believe the D5500 deos (sure someone will correct me if it doesn't). If you plan on shooting landscapes don't underestimate the usefulness of tilt screens.

Let me just go back to the ability to micro adjust lenses for a second as this isn't discussed a lot when folk are buying cameras as there's so many other things to think about first. However, if you are genuinely making an investment for the future and think that you will keep the body for a number of years it is worth considering imo. Unfortunately most lenses are not exact these days and will focus ever so slightly in front or behind where you have the focus point (front or back focus). It's most noticeable when depth of field is very shallow. For some people they notice it straight away (unfortunately I'm one of those) and some people not so much and may only notice it if they pixel peep. The ability to micro adjust corrects for the 'flaw' in the lens. I drove myself mad before I found out about front/back focus as I was sure I was doing everything right but was still getting soft images. I found out about F/B focussing, tested my camera under controlled conditions (tripod and test charts) and it turned out my lens front focussed. Adjusted it and hey presto got sharp images. So I think that this is worth considering when buying a body that you will keep for a while. You can have the best glass in the world but if it's F/B focussing it's not going to produce the images it should. My 70-200mm f2.8 front focusses for example, without the ability to micro adjust I'd have spent £1250 (got cash back) on a lens that produced soft images :eek:

OK so I might have got ahead of myself here, and the F/B focus is only really important if you're going to shoot with shallow depth of field, but you did say that you were wanting a body to keep for a few years so thought it was worth mentioning ;)
 
I'm afraid that's the rub. You could try a slow lens such as the 55-200VR (which is actually a nice lens for what it is) but you might well end up disappointed.

Indoor arenas aren't that well lit and even with an f/2.8 lens you will often need ISO3200 or 6400 to get high enough shutter speeds for moving animals. The 55-200 has a largest aperture of f/5.6 which is two stops slower so in order to compensate you would need an ISO of 12800 or 25600!!
So would a better body compensate for the 55-200 at f/5.6 ?
 
So would a better body compensate for the 55-200 at f/5.6 ?


As you will see from @snerkler post, the sensors in the modern Nikon's are all the same and they are the best you can get without upgrading to full frame and that's a whole nother can of worms... (and waaaay out of budget).
 
This lens is about my full budget without body if that's what it costs to get good photos think its time to think about another hobby.
Nope, don't need to spend that at all to get good images. The 70-200mm f2.8 is one of the creme de la creme of zoom lenses for sure, but you can get great images with other much cheaper lenses, they just won't be as good. The Tamron 70-300mm VC that I've mentioned before at £230 new is very capable of great images for example. But one second hand and you've got a great lens for less than £200
 
Nope, don't need to spend that at all to get good images. The 70-200mm f2.8 is one of the creme de la creme of zoom lenses for sure, but you can get great images with other much cheaper lenses, they just won't be as good. The Tamron 70-300mm VC that I've mentioned before at £230 new is very capable of great images for example. But one second hand and you've got a great lens for less than £200


But indoors, of moving animals?

I'd be trying to find a compatible Sigma, if I wanted to shoot animals indoors on a budget that is.
 
But indoors, of moving animals?

I'd be trying to find a compatible Sigma, if I wanted to shoot animals indoors on a budget that is.
For sure a 70-200mm f2.8 would be better, but I wouldn't say that you can't get good images with a 70-300mm. Quick flickr search revealed these taken with a 70-300mm, some are pretty decent.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/al1d8gun/albums/72157613782713206

However, if it was me and I was on a budget and my primary shooting was going to be dog shows I'd choose something like this.

http://www.lcegroup.co.uk/Used/Sigma-70-200MM-F2.8-EX-DG-HSM-II-NIKON-FIT_132009.html
 
Here you go, this is what folk are telling you about the cameras, as you can see between these there's very little it in in terms of out and out image quality. So for example if the same person took the same static shot of the same subject under the same conditions with the same lens the images produced by all 3 will pretty much look identical.

Screen%20Shot%202016-01-11%20at%2020.15.26_zpst69nryqa.png


All you are paying for with the D7200 is build, better autofocus system, and a few other bits and bobs such as the ability to micro adjust lenses (not sure if the D5500 can do this too). So if all that you are interested in is IQ then you may as well stick with the D3300. If you feel that an advanced AF system, or weather sealing etc is something that will be of use to you at some point then it may be worth considering. One other thing to consider it that the D7200 doesn't have a tilt screen (bizarre omission imo) whereas I believe the D5500 deos (sure someone will correct me if it doesn't). If you plan on shooting landscapes don't underestimate the usefulness of tilt screens.
Think its worth the extra for better build quality and from what ive read autofocus too
Let me just go back to the ability to micro adjust lenses for a second as this isn't discussed a lot when folk are buying cameras as there's so many other things to think about first. However, if you are genuinely making an investment for the future and think that you will keep the body for a number of years it is worth considering imo. Unfortunately most lenses are not exact these days and will focus ever so slightly in front or behind where you have the focus point (front or back focus). It's most noticeable when depth of field is very shallow. For some people they notice it straight away (unfortunately I'm one of those) and some people not so much and may only notice it if they pixel peep. The ability to micro adjust corrects for the 'flaw' in the lens. I drove myself mad before I found out about front/back focus as I was sure I was doing everything right but was still getting soft images. I found out about F/B focussing, tested my camera under controlled conditions (tripod and test charts) and it turned out my lens front focussed. Adjusted it and hey presto got sharp images. So I think that this is worth considering when buying a body that you will keep for a while. You can have the best glass in the world but if it's F/B focussing it's not going to produce the images it should. My 70-200mm f2.8 front focusses for example, without the ability to micro adjust I'd have spent £1250 (got cash back) on a lens that produced soft images :eek:

OK so I might have got ahead of myself here, and the F/B focus is only really important if you're going to shoot with shallow depth of field, but you did say that you were wanting a body to keep for a few years so thought it was worth mentioning ;)
If most lenses are not exact then think that the ability to micro adjust as well as better autofocus , build quality and weather proof could make the extra cost worth it, also read about the D7200 been able to work on the old 35mm camera lenses too.
Then again all this micro adjust stuff is way over my head and I probably would never know if my lens was ou t of focus anyway..

Not sure if the D5500 tilt and touch screen will make better photos, but might be better for some users.
 
If most lenses are not exact then think that the ability to micro adjust as well as better autofocus , build quality and weather proof could make the extra cost worth it, also read about the D7200 been able to work on the old 35mm camera lenses too.
Then again all this micro adjust stuff is way over my head and I probably would never know if my lens was ou t of focus anyway..

Not sure if the D5500 tilt and touch screen will make better photos, but might be better for some users.
As I said, some people notice more than others, even experienced users.

Tilt screen won't make diddly squat difference to the photos no, but it can make using the camera a better experience. When you start getting into this you will realise how important the functionality, ergonomics etc of the camera are. If the camera's not nice to use then you tend not to use it so much. Some cameras are so nice to use you can't help but take photos with it.
 
What if...
What if..!
What if..!!
What if...!!!
You STOP making it so bludy complicated for yourself!!!!
You admitted at the beginning to being a green-box beginner using a D3100 as a big point and shoot.
You are leaping in at the far end, talking about semi-pro-grade kit and infinitesimal differences between it to, what? WHAT is the actual real problem here!?!?
YOU DON'T HAVE A CAMERA!
Right now, you would be better off with a £50 point and shoot compact... at least it could take a bludy picture!!
THAT is what you want to do isn't it?
So.. get a camera, start taking pictures!!!
Shows can be a bit challenging, light is often horrible flourescent strips some-where up in the rafters. There's folk jostling about looking at whats on show, and in your case, even the 'subjects' on show aren't particularly obliging, also likely to flit about, and not likely to oblige you with a 'pose' if you ask nicely. But hey, THIS is photography.. we have to deal with the 'life' going on around us... even landscapers get mugged by the occasional tree!
NOW, you have been scratching at the surface, and getting ever more insights into ever less relevant 'elevated' elements of the craft, which HERE AND NOW you are making much of, because they 'seem' so 'important'.. to others, yes, they are; to you, here and now, NO they are not. Here and now, a green-box beginner, you don't know enough to make use of any of this, or EVEN that you cant!
You need to STOP THINKING about it and start DOING IT! That is how you will learn.
as said, better photographers take better pictures not better cameras.
EXPECT disappointing results! We call that 'learning by our mistakes'.
So, you need a camera that will let you go make mistakes.. maybe get you the odd better picture, but basically help you start learning. The better cameras will never do that for you, and until you do start doing and getting experience, all this theory is just making it ever more daunting, ever more complicated and harder for you to know what to do...
TAKE PHOTOS!
That is what you ought to do!
With the cheapest camera that will do the job and let you learn where and when its YOU that's not up to the job, and where, very very occasionally, its the camera or lens.
As said, an 'entry' level camera is designed exactly for this job... if you have to buy brand new, and on finance, well, carry on... D3300 and 'kit' is at least THAT start!!!!
worry about the rest WHEN you have actually started getting photo's and have REAL problems to solve that, after looking at what YOU were doing that could have been better... 'better' gear might help you get around...
Old army proverb "ANY decision is better than indecision!"
FFS, stop pondering all the imponderables here, and get on and DO something! ANYTHING? Make a start, some-where, anywhere! even if its 'wrong' you can learn from it and that's closer to getting some-where than where you are at right here right now!
 
If someone acted like that IRL to me when i asked a fairly innocent question then I'd be bitterly disappointed with their behaviour. KEYBOARD WARRIORS! YEAHHHH
 
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Sorry its just that different people are giving me different opinions and answers which when I think I've chosen a camera then change my mind again. You are right I need to get a camera and start taking photos then start asking more questions when my photos are no right. I think your right about going for he cheaper body too. Probably made my mind up now, unless someone else comes back with another answer to make me think again.
Sorry if I made you angry but I do appreciate your honest and straight answers.
 
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Sorry its just that different people are giving me different opinions and answers which when I think I've chosen a camera then change my mind again.
Yup.. image I had in my mind was of a stray dog surrounded by concerned by-standers all bending over calling it.... and very confused mutt not knowing which way to turn
You are right I need to get a camera and start taking photos then start asking more questions when my photos are no right. I think your right about going for he cheaper body too. Probably made my mind up now,.
good show.. that's what you need
unless someone else comes back with another answer to make me think again.
No.. PLEASE NO!
You've made your mind up.... STICK WITH IT!
You may be wrong... but its 'right'! Its a DECISION! Job done.
Sorry if I made you angry but I do appreciate your honest and straight answers..
Lol. Thank-You. Nice to be Appreciated for being a bit brutal! There's an ironic humor in that. Glad to help, though.
 
I actually agree with Teflon Mike as the op wasn't able to use the d3100 out of auto mode with any confidence. If he couldn't do that before he's not going to do that with a body higher up the range.

But putting that aside and for what it's worth, my first DSLR was the d3000. After nearly 3 years of using it entirely out of auto mode, I upgraded to the d7000 and the jump in image quality for shots taken at higher ISO was with it to me. But it might not be to you. I was able to try out a friend d7000 before buying my own so I was able to make an informed decision on whether it was worth it to me.

I hear the d5500 is a great camera and not to be fooled by the price being lower than that of the d7xxx range.
 
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