HDR question

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supra-si

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Si
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Hello all, im a big car enthusiast but i cant seem to get my HDR technique right.

all my pics come over too soft.. is there anything i can do when i set the camera up to try and sharpen the main image up.

im using a -2, 0, +2 Av setting on my 400d f5.6 standard 18-55mm lens

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa34/si706/IMG_1250_1_tonemapped.jpg

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cheers for your help if you can.. but im sure im in the right place to get advice :help:
 
Are you using a tripod? What software are you using for the HDR imaging?
 
shutter speeds errrrrrmmm pas how do i tell?

i had it just set up to take - 2, 0 and +2 didnt know i had to mess with shutter speeds as well

erm yes i had it on a tripod

thanks for the help how do i make them less harsh on the photomatix? i just uploaded them and started tweaking
 
supra-si said:
shutter speeds errrrrrmmm pas how do i tell?

i had it just set up to take - 2, 0 and +2 didnt know i had to mess with shutter speeds as well

erm yes i had it on a tripod

thanks for the help how do i make them less harsh on the photomatix? i just uploaded them and started tweaking
Click to expand...

Are the separate images sharp?
When you preview them in the Photomatix before going to tone mapping are they sharp?
It's also worth putting the lens into manual so it does not decide to re-focus between shots.
Turn the controls down in Photomatix and see if the result is sharp also... maybe you just have them pumped to high.
 
if the images arent sharp before they go into tone mapping am i able to sharpen them up beforehand or do i have to reshoot them?

sounds like hard work all this photography shanigans or im just jumping in too deep too quickly

il give it a go in manual mode too
 
Oh yeh i forgot to say i used ISO100 for the shots is that too low?
 
supra-si said:
Oh yeh i forgot to say i used ISO100 for the shots is that too low?
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Yes, ISO100 is mainly used for shooting in areas with plenty of light. The images suggest they were taken at dusk/night. Im sure someone more experienced than me can suggest an optimum ISO to use for your shots :thumbs:
 
i will have to do that tonight as im at work currently lol

i used auto focus so it shouldnt be out of focus, i think one of the images may have been though an the overexposed piture may have shaken.

i feel that it may have been easier just taking one raw image and creating an image from that and having it slightly underexposed
 
supra-si said:
i will have to do that tonight as im at work currently lol

i used auto focus so it shouldnt be out of focus, i think one of the images may have been though an the overexposed piture may have shaken.

i feel that it may have been easier just taking one raw image and creating an image from that and having it slightly underexposed
Click to expand...

If you start off with blurred images then HDR is not going to sharpen them. As you are using a tripod, stick with ISO100 and longer exposures as nothing is moving in the image. Get the tripod stable, ensure the camera is either in continuous shoot and AEB and press the shutter carefully and once until all three exposures are taken. Alternatively use the self timer which I think will take all three for you without having to risk blur by touching the camera or get a remote lead and use that.
 
ive just been having a look at remote leads, can be sourced for 5 quid which isnt that bad and i suppose they all do the same kind of job
 
Shutter speed is 1/0.5 second for that image.
 
Try contrast masking, that can make an image look sharper and you only need the one exposure though you could still AEB and try the process on each one.
 
haha ok , used my auto timer last night for AEB and it worked a treat i guess me pushing the button actually moved the camera on the tripod just enough to blurr the image on one shot which resulted in slightly distorted final image.
 
Set the camera to AV select around F11 ISO 100 should be ok set camera to bracketing and select + 2 -2 change to continuous shooting use a remote or if not the timer function and that will do the trick shutter speed is not that important on the tripod be firing the shutter with a remote is

Hope that helps, it should otherwise your doing something in the set up wrong

LesF
 
supra-si said:
haha ok , used my auto timer last night for AEB and it worked a treat i guess me pushing the button actually moved the camera on the tripod just enough to blurr the image on one shot which resulted in slightly distorted final image.
Click to expand...

lets have a look then;)
 
this is after a lil play on photomatix but looks alot less distorted now i dont touch the camera. and i took off the autofocus to stop it changing in betwOversized image(s) changed to links.n shots

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa34/si706/IMG_1271_2_3_tonemapped.jpg

i knwo i need to start taking some out in t he countryside and get more colours going but by the tiem ive finished work its always dark il try and get some outdoorsy ones tomorrow

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much better, you'll see a bigger difference with a daylight HDR also.


P.S You've photoshopped out your rear number plate but left it viewing at the 'designated car space' sign on the fencing;)
 
A point worth mentioneing is if your altering the apeture instead of shutter speed depth of field will vary between shots, this won't help sharpness and may cause some softning in places, thats why it's recomended to alter the shutter speed.
 
panthro said:
Yes, ISO100 is mainly used for shooting in areas with plenty of light. The images suggest they were taken at dusk/night. Im sure someone more experienced than me can suggest an optimum ISO to use for your shots :thumbs:
Click to expand...
ISO 100 isn't too low if you are shooting on a tripod, which you are. Doing tone mapped images (your image isn't a HDR in the true sense as it doesn't contain a High Dynamic Range) will introduce noise so you want to be shooting at as low an ISO as you can to start off with.

Shooting at ISO100 is fine on a tripod regardless of light levels because the camera is on solid support which will let you shoot the longer exposures required at your chosen ISO.
 
Iso 100 (low noise)
tripod (stop camera shake)
Av mode (no DOF discrepancies)
smaller aperture (to avoid D.O.F blur)
SINGLE AF POINT (you don't want it changing the AF point between shots)
Continuous shooting (takes all 3 pics in one shutter press)
Remote cable release (stop camera shake)

I can't think of anything else :thinking:
 
bomberman said:
Iso 100 (low noise)
tripod (stop camera shake)
Av mode (no DOF discrepancies)
smaller aperture (to avoid D.O.F blur)
SINGLE AF POINT (you don't want it changing the AF point between shots)
Continuous shooting (takes all 3 pics in one shutter press)
Remote cable release (stop camera shake)

I can't think of anything else :thinking:
Click to expand...

Bracketed exposure as in AEB -2 0 +2
 
Richard Peters said:
ISO 100 isn't too low if you are shooting on a tripod, which you are. Doing tone mapped images (your image isn't a HDR in the true sense as it doesn't contain a High Dynamic Range) will introduce noise so you want to be shooting at as low an ISO as you can to start off with.

Shooting at ISO100 is fine on a tripod regardless of light levels because the camera is on solid support which will let you shoot the longer exposures required at your chosen ISO.
Click to expand...

Thanks, very useful information, Im still a beginner :)
 
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