Grad Filters for 17-40 f/4 L

Sharp

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Paul
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I've just ordered the myself the above mentioned wide angle lens and have now spent the evening looking at grad filter options, after many searches i'm non the wiser.

Can anyone recommend a filter system for the 17-40? The cokin z-pro kit fits my budget nicely however there are lots of mixed reviews, another option I was considering is a single screw in filter. I'm off to america for a month in a few weeks time were I will have some once in a lifetime photo opportunities. Im still a novice in the photography field but would like to maximise my chances of coming back with some shots I can be proud of.

Thoughts please :thumbs:
 
I bought a hitch set a couple of years ago which I have used on the 10-20 and 100-400, both of which are the same 77mm.

I haven't used them on my newly acquired 17-40 but can't see why they wouldn't give the same good results :)
 
Hi, Firstly I would not use a the round filter option as IMO the square slot in type are quicker to use and in the long run cheaper to buy. If you buy the square type go for 0.6 or 0.9 NDG's as the 0.3 again IMO don't do as lot for you.
You will need a polarizer and is the only round filter you should have because why buy additional UV filters etc and place them on the front of your expensive glass in the lens?.
I started with Cokin but soon moved up as I felt they really are not that good, yet some people love them.
Don't buy the square filters that have things like sunset filter, Blue sky filter written on them again IMO waste of money.
Remember filters are an aid they will not make you a better photographer.
If your going for land/seascape photos try to meter the sky then meter the foreground take your photograph on a tripod and combine it in software.
And of course shoot in RAW.
As a side note, If you are going for a month and can afford the time buy what you need when you get there or check out the difference in prices between there and the UK taking into account the money exchange rate I bet if you had wated for the 17-40 you would have saved a few bob.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Id already checked the price of the lens in america and saving was next to nothing, also cant take it back if the're problems/faults and would be nice to get some practice in before i go. A little confused about the polariser as everyone else seems to advise against them on wide angle lenses?

I guess the cokins are a bad idea. Is there a single grad filter im likely to need the most or should i ideally buy a set? I could maybe stretch to lee if I just buy 1 filter for now. Also looking at kood, they seem to have decent reviews for the money.
 
The Z Pro aren't actually bad at all, not up to Lee standard but way above the Cokin P series.

Hitech are a good compromise.

If you want to keep cost down I'd get a 3 stop hard edge and a 2 stop soft will keep you straight in most situations, if necessary stacked together.

If you've not used them before have a look at my blog on ND grads and how to use them, http://www.markmullenphotography.co.uk/blog/2013/3/filters-for-landscape-photography
 
Ok so im down to either Kood z-pro or Hitech 100mm

would I need to buy the same brand filter holder or what are my options? I know kood fit into cokin but what about hitech?

cheers.
 
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I originally bought the thingy you screw onto the lens to slot the grads into. Then I got 77mm lenses and decided that was too expensive. I don't use the that much as I'm not really into landscapes, but the large square ones I have I just hold in front of the lens. Economic and simple.
 
markmullen said:
If you want to keep cost down I'd get a 3 stop hard edge and a 2 stop soft will keep you straight in most situations, if necessary stacked together.
Click to expand...
Isn't a soft grad going to be a little too "washy" on an APS-C sensored body, Mark? ...(unless it's to be used in portrait orientation).

Bob
 
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markmullen said:
I'll be honest, I find myself taking more portrait orientation landscapes than traditional landscape landscapes so I may be biased.
Click to expand...

That would work better, Mark, but I think a soft grad on a crop sensor would fade over too much of the frame (in landscape). A hard grad on a crop would give similar results to a soft grad on a full frame body.

Bob
 
I suppose it's wrong of me to say that I simply can't understand why anyone buys a 17-40mm f4 for use on an APS-C camera. But that's just me and good luck to those APS-C users who see a reason to buy that lens.

Anyway, I went for Cokin P and although I hardly ever use them when I have I haven't noticed any of the colour cast or other nasties that some report. I don't really come across too many occasions in which grads would help me much but I do use ND's to reduce shutter speed and a poloriser can come in useful.

Generally, I think that before spending any cash on a filter system it's worthwhile thinking when and how often you'll use them.
 
So there is no point me getting soft grads? I Think im going to go with Hitech

woof_woof, I intend to upgrade my camera to full-frame at some point so this lens seemed a good choice for me, the filters are likely to get some use as I enjoy shooting landscapes.
 
Sharp said:
So there is no point me getting soft grads? I Think im going to go with Hitech
Click to expand...
I would canvass other opinions too, Paul. My own logic (and readings from others) tells me that soft grads on a crop sensored body will have the faded portion taking up too much of the frame for traditional use. The issue will be less prevalent at the 17mm end and more prevalent at the 40mm end.

Bob
 
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