Got my S5PRO...

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NaturalBritain

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and now I need some advice please...

I've had a good read of the handbook (which is against all my principles!) and I can't find the info I'm looking for...

If I'm shooting in RAW am I right in thinking that D-Range, Film Simulation, Colour & Tone are all irrelevant? I only ever record in RAW, used the camera for the first time at the weekend (admittedly for about 10 minutes in rubbish lighting) and although the image on the screen appeared wonderful, when uploading and converting (through Lightroom) the inital RAW negative was nothing like I was expecting (yes, I do know screens on the back are notoriously unreliable)

Hope that all makes sense...

On a connected note - recommendation anyone for a new lens. I currently use a Tokina 12-24 which I love and am always impressed with the sharpness. I also have a Nikon 55-200VR which is great for what I use it for. Finally I want to get rid of my Nikon 18-70 sooo....

Do I overlap and get a 16-50 Tamron, or go for a 24/28 to about 70ish from Sigma or whoever.... (I'd love the 16-50 Tokina but £650 is a tad dear for me!)

Cheers for any help

Si
 
The image you see on the LCD screen will use the camera's picture control settings but the actual raw image will have none of the camera's settings applied to it which is why it will look different .
 
NaturalBritain said:
So the follow on question then - is how the hell do you turn them off!
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Not sure on the s5 on my D300 i just set everything to normal of minimum etc, but i tend to just use the LCD to check framing , focus and the histogram.
 
NaturalBritain said:
and now I need some advice please...

I've had a good read of the handbook (which is against all my principles!) and I can't find the info I'm looking for...

If I'm shooting in RAW am I right in thinking that D-Range, Film Simulation, Colour & Tone are all irrelevant? I only ever record in RAW, used the camera for the first time at the weekend (admittedly for about 10 minutes in rubbish lighting) and although the image on the screen appeared wonderful, when uploading and converting (through Lightroom) the inital RAW negative was nothing like I was expecting (yes, I do know screens on the back are notoriously unreliable)

Hope that all makes sense...

On a connected note - recommendation anyone for a new lens. I currently use a Tokina 12-24 which I love and am always impressed with the sharpness. I also have a Nikon 55-200VR which is great for what I use it for. Finally I want to get rid of my Nikon 18-70 sooo....

Do I overlap and get a 16-50 Tamron, or go for a 24/28 to about 70ish from Sigma or whoever.... (I'd love the 16-50 Tokina but £650 is a tad dear for me!)

Cheers for any help

Si
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I presume the amazing Dynamic Range is still evident in Raw?
 
If I'm shooting in RAW am I right in thinking that D-Range, Film Simulation, Colour & Tone are all irrelevant?

The one setting that does count is DR!

If you shoot at 100%, this turns off the extra "R" pixels, so you don't get the extra 2 stops of DR. Your RAF files will be 12 megapixels.

If you use Auto DR or any other setting than 100% you will get the extra DR. Your RAF files will be 25 megapixel.

But this setting is important as it basically toggles the extra "R" pixels on or off at sensor level at image capture time. The other settings don't matter as such, but the DR one does!
 
puddleduck said:
If I'm shooting in RAW am I right in thinking that D-Range, Film Simulation, Colour & Tone are all irrelevant? [/]

The one setting that does count is DR!

If you shoot at 100%, this turns off the extra "R" pixels, so you don't get the extra 2 stops of DR. Your RAF files will be 12 megapixels.

If you use Auto DR or any other setting than 100% you will get the extra DR. Your RAF files will be 25 megapixel.

But this setting is important as it basic toggles the extra "R" pixels on or off at Capture time. The other ones don't matter as such, but the DR one does!
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Puddleduck, sorry - I am confused. Can you clarify, are the extra Dynamic Range stops available in Raw Mode?
 
I'm not actually sure I can put it any plainer than I've posted.

You always get the extra DR, unless you explicitly turn Off the extra DR by selecting 100% DR.

For RAW, the intermediate settings ie 130% don't matter.
 
puddleduck said:
I'm not actually sure I can put it any plainer than I've posted.

You always get the extra DR, unless you explicitly turn Off the extra DR by selecting 100% DR.

For RAW, the intermediate settings ie 130% don't matter.
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Ahh OK, I got confused. 100% DR, is less than extra DR, does not make sense to me :D

You have answered the question, sounds like a strange system.
 
100% DR is about the same as most non-Fuji cameras.

Anything over 100% is party time.
 
The S5 Pro spanks the D700, so I guess it's the same as the D3 there.

Although the cameras are quite different - the S5 Pro has class leading highlight robustness, while the D3 quite a lot of detail that lives in the shadows you can boost later.
 
EdinburghGary said:
b****r, just read some rumours about Fuji pulling out of the DSLR market...true do you think?
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I posted about this on DPReview about 8 months ago and no one believed me.

I do live close to Bedford and its amazing who you meet in the pub ;)
 
Agreed - but most people care more about megapixel bragging rights, rather than DR.

If you are a Fuji shareholder, and class leading products are produced, extremely well reviewed - but no one buys - what do you do?

A) Keep investing?
B) Refocus the company towards medical imaging?
 
puddleduck said:
Agreed - but most people care more about megapixel bragging rights, rather than DR.

If you are a Fuji shareholder, and class leading products are produced, extremely well reviewed - but no one buys - what do you do?

A) Keep investing?
B) Refocus the company towards medical imaging?
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Release a dual Sensor 24MP monster :D

Bloody shame, I hope Canon or Nikon consider the technology used.
 
Actually the S6 Pro sensor would have been a little smaller than 24 megapixels. It had to be to keep the 2 stop DR advantage.
 
i have the S5 and a D3 .... the D3 beats the S5 on sheer speed also on resolution .. not to say the S5 isnt a sharp bit of kit .. it bloody well is ..

but for overall picture quality and beautiful DR the S5 has the edge... so overall which camera do i prefer ... well it has to be the S5 .. i just love the images it knocks out :love:
 
And the above is why I don't understand why no one bought the S5 Pro :bonk:

It beats any Nikon DLSR for image quality "niceness" - even the ones that cost £3k!
 
Volusian said:
i have the S5 and a D3 .... the D3 beats the S5 on sheer speed also on resolution .. not to say the S5 isnt a sharp bit of kit .. it bloody well is ..

but for overall picture quality and beautiful DR the S5 has the edge... so overall which camera do i prefer ... well it has to be the S5 .. i just love the images it knocks out :love:
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Bitter pill I bet...£3K bowled over by £480 :)
 
Maybe... when I shot a D300 and S5 Pro side by side last year.. well I was glad Jessops have that return policy ;)
 
EdinburghGary said:
Poor marketing, nothing else.
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and to be fare to Fuji it's a very difficult market to break into, I hate to think how much Sony have spent to get what is essentially a tiny toe hold in the entry level market. Fuji were aiming much higher up the tree and it's incredibly hard to persuade someone not to buy Canon or Nikon kit. The real shame for me is that Fuji have shown what is possible yet Canon and nikon keep pursuing the practically pointless mega pixel race without substantially improving image quality in years.
 
You would have thought that making it compatible with Nikon lenses would have been enough...

Anyway - are we saying then to turn everything off/to standard except for D-Range which should be set to AUTO or 130% (which of the two?)

Cheers

Si

PS - Can anyone recommend a remote release for it?
 
Dunno about S5 but I know that CS3's ACR couldnt handle my S3 Pro's raw files properly at all. Best bet was using the Hyper Utility that came with it.

Only just upgraded my S3 Pro to a D700 and being honest I can fudge enough out of the D700 to get very close to the DR of the S3 in raw mode. The "true" 12mp and the amazing low light, plus the speed, better focusing, larger screen etc etc really does pump it silly though.

Im doing a modelling shoot in a few weeks and will use both beside each other though just to confirm my own findings.
 
puddleduck said:
Maybe... when I shot a D300 and S5 Pro side by side last year.. well I was glad Jessops have that return policy ;)
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Would appreciate any tips you have on getting the most from the camera. Have to say it won't get a huge amount of use but I would love to hit the ground running. Its the DR boost I am really interested in, and raw is essential.
 
Shoot JPEG + RAW. To really unlock the DR you need to shoot RAW.

I like to shoot STD, Auto DR, Auto WB, Colour +1 (Medium High),Tone +1 (Medium High), Sharpening STD. Use sRGB colourspace.

Shoot JPEG "M" - not JPEG "L" as JPEG L looks tatty.

For RAW, Lightroom or ACR are best best for highlight recovery. The dual sensors are mapped internally as HDR, so you can do some AMAZING things with negative EV and fill-light.

Lightroom will look at bit soft viewed at 100% - this is because most RAW converters interpolate from 6 to 12 megapixels. Avoid looking at 100%, 67% view gives you a better feel for sharpness.

Capture One does a lovely job, very sharp but it doesn't understand the extra DR. But while you are learning use C1 to cull, as you'll like the sharpness, and its handy to get used to the S5 Pro as things look nice and sharp (sharper than Lightroom)
 
EdinburghGary said:
Cheers guys,

Just bought one and collecting from Jessops after work. They price matched Warehouse Express, £420.
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So you decided against my oft repeated offer to swap my S5 Pro for your D3 then:(.

Typical a Scot who'd rather spend money then get something for nothing:p

Enjoy.:)
 
I shoot with DR set to 400% and all other settings left to standard then use Adobe Camera Raw 'Recovery' and 'Fill Light' sliders to unlease the magic.

The reason the S5 didn't sell is because most chumps put megapixel count too high up the spec. list when deciding on a new camera.

I find the large JPEGS look better if you turn in-camera sharpening off completely and apply as required in post processing.
 
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