General builders is this feasible?

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Cobra

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I have an area approx 3m wide x 1m deep
That is "enclosed" with path edgings on 2 sides, and brick walls on the other two sides.

This is filled to a depth of approx 50-60mm with 10mm pea-shingle.
its been like this for years, and IIRC there is something of a hardcore base underneath.
As to the depth of that, I'm not sure.

I'm thinking of concreting over that,
its not load baring, it holds a couple of bins and a couple of small planters,
and that's it.
Due to the size and position of the "site" it rarely gets walked on either,
Oh and its also quite sheltered. Also having an overhang along the length and approx half the depth.
(so thats about 3m x 500mm overhang)

I'm thinking of basically mixing the concrete in situ as it were.

There are various "mixes" suggested on T'internet.
From 1:2:3 - 3 being sand (of the Sharp persuasion I assume)
to 1:4:2 again 2 being sand.

Before I'd seen those suggestions, I'd thought of removing half the shingle and replacing it with sand 50:50
and then adding OPC @ a ratio of 1:4 or 1:5

First off which would you suggest is the best ratio?
All or none of the above?

I know that its going to be hard work, but I was also think of dry mixing everything in situ,
and then slowly add the water with a spray hose while frantically (Phew) turning and mixing by hand.

Also by adding the water and OPC will it make a significant difference to the "dry volume"
ie will I need to say have only 75% dry volume before adding the OPC and water,
or will the OPC and water only have a negligible effect on the volume, or even a minus effect as it all settles?

Any comments or advice is appreciated Thanks in advance :thumbs:
 
a good mix for concrete is 3 chippings 2 sand 1 cement .mixing in situ is hard work hire a mixer for a day its much easier and faster and it will mix properly



bleddyn
 
Normal mix I use is 1:2:4

I have probably mixed more concrete by hand than with a mixer. It's good exercise!


Steve.
 
i think sharp sand is for a screed ,,,,concrete is normaly 20mm ballast and cement at about 1 to 5
 
Get a man in. People moan about amateurs taking the bread from the mouths of pro photographers by doing it themselves, what's different about builders? Besides, mixing concrete may be good exercise but it doesn't do us oldies middle aged gentlemen's backs much good!

Personally, I'd remove as much of the grit/gravel as possible for use elsewhere, put down sand to level it (and compact the sand layer with a rented plate compacter) then use paving slabs. Then spend a week with a bad back!
 
In response to your last question it is quite amazing that you you fill a wheel barrow with the dry mix and as you add water the volume just seems to disappear and you find you havne't got anywhere near as much as you thought you would!!
 
Bet you're glad you asked :LOL:
 
I would get one of those companies that turn up with a mixer on the back and just supply whatever quantity you need. They look at the area, make the mix, barrow it to site, then leave you to level it.
No shortage or excess materials to deal with and most of the hard work done for you!
Mixamate is one example, did a great job for us - the spreading and levelling is still good exercise.
 
A labourer is about £100 - £150 a day round here. I'd get one of those.
 
simonblue said:
Sound like hard work,just leave it :D
Click to expand...
That was plan "A" :D
bledyn125 said:
a good mix for concrete is 3 chippings 2 sand 1 cement .mixing in situ is hard work hire a mixer for a day its much easier and faster and it will mix properly
bleddyn
Click to expand...
That's the easy route :D
Steve Smith said:
Normal mix I use is 1:2:4
I have probably mixed more concrete by hand than with a mixer. It's good exercise!
Steve.
Click to expand...
Indeed it is Steve.
I've mixed a "few yards" by hand too in the past :)
donut said:
i think sharp sand is for a screed ,,,,concrete is normaly 20mm ballast and cement at about 1 to 5
Click to expand...
Indeed, but that's the point "Ballast" is (Sharp?) sand and shingle. mixed.
I have the shingle.
 
Nod said:
Personally, I'd remove as much of the grit/gravel as possible for use elsewhere, put down sand to level it (and compact the sand layer with a rented plate compacter) then use paving slabs. Then spend a week with a bad back!
Click to expand...
Having done the calculations on that as the first option,
the second option is far cheaper
I don't want to spend a fortune on what amounts to somewhere to put rubbish bins.


TopBanana said:
In response to your last question it is quite amazing that you you fill a wheel barrow with the dry mix and as you add water the volume just seems to disappear and you find you havne't got anywhere near as much as you thought you would!!
Click to expand...
That was the way I (Thought I) remembered it too.

gramps said:
Bet you're glad you asked :LOL:
Click to expand...
Absolutely :D

david357 said:
I would get one of those companies that turn up with a mixer on the back and just supply whatever quantity you need. They look at the area, make the mix, barrow it to site, then leave you to level it.
No shortage or excess materials to deal with and most of the hard work done for you!
.
Click to expand...
As I have half the materials already, seems pointless for my situation ;)

JonathanRyan said:
A labourer is about £100 - £150 a day round here. I'd get one of those.
Click to expand...
Bargain!
However I could block pave the whole area for less and that includes the hire of the "whacker plate"

Thanks for the responses so far guys :)
 
If you are going down the 'mix it by hand' route, buy a paddle from Topps Tiles.
http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod42259/section-1/TileMate-Pro-Adhesive-Mixer.html
They cost about £7 and fit into a standard drill/driver.
I mix the dry mix adhesive for tiling, mortar and plaster with my one using an 18v drill/driver.
Or you can use an electric one.
Borrow if you don't have one.
It takes a fraction of the time and you don't get a sore back.
Just mix in a bucket. You can buy ready mixed mortar or concrete quite cheaply and buckets cost £1.
 
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kendo1 said:
If you are going down the 'mix it by hand' route, buy a paddle from Topps Tiles.
http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod42259/section-1/TileMate-Pro-Adhesive-Mixer.html
They cost about £7 and fit into a standard drill/driver.
I mix the dry mix adhesive for tiling, mortar and plaster with my one using an 18v drill/driver.
Or you can use an electric one.
Borrow if you don't have one.
It takes a fraction of the time and you don't get a sore back.
Just mix in a bucket. You can buy ready mixed mortar or concrete quite cheaply and buckets cost £1.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, I know that plasterers (et al) use them, but I have my doubts that they (the drill ) even a 240v one
would be man enough for the job as far as concrete is concerned.
 
I've never had a problem, even with dry mixes. As I said, I use an 18v drill/driver, and use it with a 14v one too. They are professional tools though.
I've only had to buy one and use it every week.
 
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Kerioak said:
Block paviers would still allow drainage which concrete would not, how much water runs between the two walls or does the overhang keep it all off, is it in an area that is liable to flood if we keep getting the mad amounts of rain in short periods that we have been getting recently
Click to expand...
Flooding is never going to be a problem It never even gets damp,
The prevailing wind comes from the rear, and the flower pots remain bone dry even in all this rain. :)
 
You have to remember that with a paddle you are not moving all the mixture, just the bits in contact with it, so the forces involved are relatively small.
 
Well you can get all sorts of paddles here, should be at least one suitable for the job :)

10574253_850749978270863_3461947763088355028_n.jpg
 
We did all the floors at the Honda plant in Swindon when it was built.We were called back in after they had fittted it out. We had polished them up so well the robots could not get traction.They don`t call me slippery dik for nothing ;) Dont call me I will call you :D
 
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