Fujifilm X-H1

They obviously have something lacking to need such long lenses!!
One even had his Nikon on top of a 15’ pole, swaying in the breeze, controlled by an iPad. The trouble was, the lag in between him pressing the button, the camera gaining focus, then shooting, meant the train had passed before the shot had been taken. A good idea, but flawed. :p
 
First shot from my brand-new X-H1 (having returned the faulty refurb to Fuji), and first shot processed on my new 'puter. 35mm f2 lens.

Galatea at Settle by Stephen Lee, on Flickr


I'm impressed Sir, impressed I am.:D:D(y)

"Glad you've got it all sorted now, look forward to seeing some more of your work"

George.
 
I'm impressed Sir, impressed I am.:D:D(y)

"Glad you've got it all sorted now, look forward to seeing some more of your work"

George.
Thank you George for your very kind comments. Much appreciated. (y)
 
Image Stabilization
The Fujifilm X-H1 if the first X series camera to offer in-body stabilization, despite previous suggestions from the company that it couldn't be done. To get an idea of how well it compensates for real world hand shake, we ran it through our IS test at 24mm, 50mm and 200mm (equivalents).

Unlike other brands, Fujifilm doesn't gain an advantage when using in-body IS with a stabilized lens. In fact, the chart below shows that it is possible to get better stabilization with non-IS lenses, than with their IS counterparts.

Stabilization is a complex issue at the best of times, with different types (and differing extent) of movement playing a different role, depending on focal length. In this case there's an additional complication because most XF lenses weren't designed to project the slightly oversized image circle needed for in-body stabilization to work to its full extent.


Fujifilm's own claims show that IS performance is somewhat lens dependent and that the provision of lens IS doesn't necessarily lead to better performance.

Just in case anyone is interested, on the strength of this DP Review I've been doing a few test myself with fully manual FF legacy lenses (all Nikon) and the following few bits came to light.

As stated above the wider XF lenses have a slightly oversize image circle and the longer lenses not so much so hence when one is fitted it tells the camera electronically what lens is fitted and this adjusts the amount of movement the sensor is allowed to make.

I wondered if fitting a legacy FF lens which obviously has a larger image circle and entering a lower focal length in the menu as apposed to the focal length being used would it affect the amount of stabilization obtained, as the camera wouldn't know exactly what focal length is fitted as there would be no electronic coupling.

So I mounted several different fully manual longer FF Nikon lenses to my X-H1 and my findings were as follows.

When I entered the true focal length ie 105mm, 135mm, 200mm, etc etc the image stabilization decreased visually the longer the lens, which to me means the camera was assuming there was an APS-C lens fitted that probably had a narrow image circle. But when I fitted the same lenses in turn and entered 14mm the image stabilization increased significantly which means the camera was assuming there was a short focal length APS-C lens fitted with a wider image circle. The resultant images were clearly sharper with no adverse effects that I could see to the rendering of the image ie distortions etc.

So my conclusion to this test would be if fitting a FF longer legacy lens to the X-H1 enter the correct aperture and a low focal length number and the stabilization will be significantly better than if you enter the true focal length.(y)

George.
 
Fujifilm's own claims show that IS performance is somewhat lens dependent and that the provision of lens IS doesn't necessarily lead to better performance.

Just in case anyone is interested, on the strength of this DP Review I've been doing a few test myself with fully manual FF legacy lenses (all Nikon) and the following few bits came to light.

As stated above the wider XF lenses have a slightly oversize image circle and the longer lenses not so much so hence when one is fitted it tells the camera electronically what lens is fitted and this adjusts

I wondered if fitting a legacy FF lens which obviously has a larger image circle and entering a lower focal length in the menu as apposed to the focal length being used would it affect the amount of stabilization obtained, as the camera wouldn't know exactly what focal length is fitted as there would be no electronic coupling.

So I mounted several different fully manual longer FF Nikon lenses to my X-H1 and my findings were as follows.

When I entered the true focal length ie 105mm, 135mm, 200mm, etc etc the image stabilization decreased visually the longer the lens, which to me means the camera was assuming there was an APS-C lens fitted that probably had a narrow image circle. But when I fitted the same lenses in turn and entered 14mm the image stabilization increased significantly which means the camera was assuming there was a short focal length APS-C lens fitted with a wider image circle. The resultant images were clearly sharper with no adverse effects that I could see to the rendering of the image ie distortions etc.

So my conclusion to this test would be if fitting a FF longer legacy lens to the X-H1 enter the correct aperture and a low focal length number and the stabilization will be significantly better than if you enter the true focal length.(y)

George.

This is fascinating George. Thanks for doing these tests and reporting your findings.
 
Looking into possible upgrades later in the year/early next year and the X-H1 is one of them. Three questions: What's it like not having the exposure compensation dial? Do I HAVE to use the touchscreen to navigate the menus? Can you use Eterna for stills?
 
Make that 4 questions: Does it work with standalone Lightroom?
 
1. A personal preference Ive always set the dial to c and used the front command wheel so I preferred no dial.
2. No never used the touchscreen myself.
3. Yes you can
$ Sorry no idea.
 
Think the touch screen is only available to either pinch to zoom when reviewing shots or touch to focus option.
 
That's a good start then, I refuse to use a touchscreen on a camera. (some irony here as I've just posted this mesage from my phone's touchscreen).
 
Image Stabilization
The Fujifilm X-H1 if the first X series camera to offer in-body stabilization, despite previous suggestions from the company that it couldn't be done. To get an idea of how well it compensates for real world hand shake, we ran it through our IS test at 24mm, 50mm and 200mm (equivalents).

Unlike other brands, Fujifilm doesn't gain an advantage when using in-body IS with a stabilized lens. In fact, the chart below shows that it is possible to get better stabilization with non-IS lenses, than with their IS counterparts.

Stabilization is a complex issue at the best of times, with different types (and differing extent) of movement playing a different role, depending on focal length. In this case there's an additional complication because most XF lenses weren't designed to project the slightly oversized image circle needed for in-body stabilization to work to its full extent.


Fujifilm's own claims show that IS performance is somewhat lens dependent and that the provision of lens IS doesn't necessarily lead to better performance.

Just in case anyone is interested, on the strength of this DP Review I've been doing a few test myself with fully manual FF legacy lenses (all Nikon) and the following few bits came to light.

As stated above the wider XF lenses have a slightly oversize image circle and the longer lenses not so much so hence when one is fitted it tells the camera electronically what lens is fitted and this adjusts the amount of movement the sensor is allowed to make.

I wondered if fitting a legacy FF lens which obviously has a larger image circle and entering a lower focal length in the menu as apposed to the focal length being used would it affect the amount of stabilization obtained, as the camera wouldn't know exactly what focal length is fitted as there would be no electronic coupling.

So I mounted several different fully manual longer FF Nikon lenses to my X-H1 and my findings were as follows.

When I entered the true focal length ie 105mm, 135mm, 200mm, etc etc the image stabilization decreased visually the longer the lens, which to me means the camera was assuming there was an APS-C lens fitted that probably had a narrow image circle. But when I fitted the same lenses in turn and entered 14mm the image stabilization increased significantly which means the camera was assuming there was a short focal length APS-C lens fitted with a wider image circle. The resultant images were clearly sharper with no adverse effects that I could see to the rendering of the image ie distortions etc.

So my conclusion to this test would be if fitting a FF longer legacy lens to the X-H1 enter the correct aperture and a low focal length number and the stabilization will be significantly better than if you enter the true focal length.(y)

George.

I had seen the chart before and I have most of the Fooj primes plus a Samyang 8mm fish and the 12mm Zeiss Touit. But found the claim of up to 5.5 stops on what is probably there oldest lens 35mm f1.4 to be a very pleasant surprise It just gets better all the time along with the Firmware updates they have delivered on this lens.
But what I found even more informative are the tests you have carried out George with legacy glass a really useful bit of information
So a big thank you for taking time to carry out and share your findings with us here at T.P. I really appreciate it.
 
Suppose I better post it in here as well, so all you X-H1 boys can dribble as well

OMG looks like there is a new replacement for my all time favourite lens the Nikon AFS-VR 200mm f2.0 a good friend of mine now owns this stunning optic but some of my fave images were shot with this lens on my D810. :)
But :(how the hell can I fund one ?
Without selling all my other Toys (n)
The XF 8-16mm looks to be another that would sit nicely in my lens line up of Fooj glass !
The one downside if there is one I guess is ?
I would be moving ever closer to going back to shooting Nikon FF and the heavyweight glass I used to pack.:(
Which is why I moved to Fuji X from my Fuji S Dslrs and Nikon cameras and glass.
I traded my 800mm f 5.6 prime at this years show at NEC for my first XH1 and grip as I found that the XF 100-400mm with or without 1.4 & 2 x tele converters to be more than a match for the Monster prime 800mm and at a fraction of the weight.
:fuji: But I hate all this temptation they keep putting out there :runaway:
 
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Make that 4 questions: Does it work with standalone Lightroom?
It looks like you have your answers already from this useful thread and extremely helpful Fooj shooters
But for me I prefer the new exposure comp setting I just custom set it to continually work off rear wheel dial so find it even quicker to use (y) win win imo
Oh and I'm pretty sure I read you can use eterna for stills as well It just keeps getting better all the time as the Beatles sang back in 1967 :clap:

View: https://youtu.be/gplia9D6rcY
 
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Looking into possible upgrades later in the year/early next year and the X-H1 is one of them. Three questions: What's it like not having the exposure compensation dial? Do I HAVE to use the touchscreen to navigate the menus? Can you use Eterna for stills?
I have the touchscreen permanently off. Can’t stand them.
Exp comp on dial is not a problem. You can choose to have the Fn button as a switch or hold-to-unlock.
Yes, Eterna is available for stills, and as a LR profile.
 
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It actually “feels” lighter than my Pro2, and the same or lighter than the T2, probably because of the larger grip.

Like wise here I think the handling is spot on for me
It's fantastic that Fuji listen to ther users and support them with new features and firmware updates Godox also appear to bring updates to there flash gear as well
 


I've now found some sample Raws, and they don't work in standalone lightroom, so that sadly means it's a no go on an X-H1. In fact that narrows it down a lot, X-T2 it is!
 
I've now found some sample Raws, and they don't work in standalone lightroom, so that sadly means it's a no go on an X-H1. In fact that narrows it down a lot, X-T2 it is!

Do I remember you rejecting X-T2 in favour of the colours of X-T1 ?
 
Do I remember you rejecting X-T2 in favour of the colours of X-T1 ?

Yes, which is why I won't be getting rid of the X-T1 any time soon, but for work I need the extra resolution and better low light AF - especially the latter, using the 60mm macro in the warehouse is becoming very tedious indeed.
 
I've now found some sample Raws, and they don't work in standalone lightroom, so that sadly means it's a no go on an X-H1. In fact that narrows it down a lot, X-T2 it is!
Mine do. The picture in an earlier post is from a raw file, processed in LR CC Classic, which is standalone.
 
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Mine do. The picture in an earlier post is from a raw file, processed in LR CC Classic, which is standalone.

I think Alan is talking about using Lightroom 6 (Standalone) software which is no longer supported in terms of new cameras/lenses etc. and not the ongoing LR Classic CC which clearly is. Mind you, I think Alan could possibly convert the X-H1 Fuji RAW to DNG and carry on processing in LR6 but I may be wrong as I don't use it myself....
 
Yes, which is why I won't be getting rid of the X-T1 any time soon, but for work I need the extra resolution and better low light AF - especially the latter, using the 60mm macro in the warehouse is becoming very tedious indeed.

Gotcha. I can see why the X-H1 with its IBIS has got your attention.
 
I think Alan is talking about using Lightroom 6 (Standalone) software which is no longer supported in terms of new cameras/lenses etc. and not the ongoing LR Classic CC which clearly is. Mind you, I think Alan could possibly convert the X-H1 Fuji RAW to DNG and carry on processing in LR6 but I may be wrong as I don't use it myself....
Iridient X Transformer
 
I think Alan is talking about using Lightroom 6 (Standalone) software which is no longer supported in terms of new cameras/lenses etc. and not the ongoing LR Classic CC which clearly is. Mind you, I think Alan could possibly convert the X-H1 Fuji RAW to DNG and carry on processing in LR6 but I may be wrong as I don't use it myself....

Yep, LR 6. I have no intention of buying a subscription, I only upgraded to this version to use my first X-T2 and didn't end up getting a lot of use from that! (Edit to add: Just looked in lightroom - 231 shots on my X-T2, vs 15000 on my X-T1 and that's only in one catalog!)

Gotcha. I can see why the X-H1 with its IBIS has got your attention.

Yes it would have been nice, but c'est la vie. We all have to make a compromise somewhere. I was thinking more along the lines of if I'm upgrading I may as well go the whole hog, if I can.
 
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one more. have a 90mm in the post.

1-1 by Jonathan Howes, on Flickr
Well, thanks a lot! That's made me want to re-buy this lens. I had one before, but sold it in favour of the 50-140 because of the stabilisation. (I subsequently sold that because of the weight, but that's irrelevant). I shall mull it over. Of course, if anyone wants to sell theirs at a good price ...
 
Except that if you have a 90mm its the law to shoot wide open only, so your shutter speed will be faster anyway, negating the need for IBIS :D:D:D

certainly helps indoors when the light is lower. able to keep the iso lower.

i think x-h1 & x-t10 may be the way i go. little n large.
 
Damn this shaky finger! I've gone and clicked a button again!
 
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