Beginner Fujifilm film simulations for Japan travel

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David A Lee
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I'm a moderately experienced enthusiast that recently decided to try the Fujifilm experience. I come from both Sony and Olympus kits. I bought a used x-t30ii to see if I can learn to use the film simulations to shoot SOOC jpegs. My PP skills are less than exemplary and I'm not particularly motivated to spend a lot of time refining them in the near future.

I'll be going on a 14 night cruise around Japan this spring with my fabulous wife. We're hitting all the standard cities and sites. Mostly city tours, temples, gardens and walking the streets.

Hoping to get some help figuring out 2-3 film simulations (other than Provia) to try and what situations would be best for each. I've narrowed the field to 5 but can't seem to knock off the last 2 or 3.

> Acros
> Classic Chrome
> Classic Negative
> Nostalgic Negative
> Reala Ace

Your sage advise would be most appreciated.
 
Good luck with the tour. I must admit I don't quite understand your question. Film simulations are not a tool that will guarantee a better result. Their use is more aesthetic. If you're going to be shooting JPEG's I would worry more about exposure than film sims.
 
I’m not 100% familiar with the Fuji workflow, but can you shoot raw and apply in post?

I suppose that’s always the compromise with a baked in look is there is no going back.

When I went abroad I did actually tweak my base preset to complement the different light and architecture.

The other approach is just “bracket” them - first few shots try a different preset and see what works best and then just stick with it.

That’s why I prefer the raw workflow - one less thing to think about when I’m taking the pic!
 
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If you shoot RAW & jpeg you will always have the RAW file to work with if you want to make a photo very specific.
You can of course also set film simulation bracketing, whereby the camera will record three different film simulation selections at the same time.
So, for example, you could have the camera record one jpeg file in Acros, another in Classic Chrome and another in Classic Negative (or whatever), then select your preferred image when reviewing them.
I find Acros + R (red filter) to give excellent results for B&W and Classic Chrome and Classic Negative to be good alternative colour versions - but I always have a RAW file as well.
 
@jimmyjamjojo is the person to speak to



I don't know about that, but thanks! The fact you still remember them has made my day! :)

@Raymond Lin also brought back some belters.

I'm a moderately experienced enthusiast that recently decided to try the Fujifilm experience. I come from both Sony and Olympus kits. I bought a used x-t30ii to see if I can learn to use the film simulations to shoot SOOC jpegs. My PP skills are less than exemplary and I'm not particularly motivated to spend a lot of time refining them in the near future.

I'll be going on a 14 night cruise around Japan this spring with my fabulous wife. We're hitting all the standard cities and sites. Mostly city tours, temples, gardens and walking the streets.

Hoping to get some help figuring out 2-3 film simulations (other than Provia) to try and what situations would be best for each. I've narrowed the field to 5 but can't seem to knock off the last 2 or 3.

> Acros
> Classic Chrome
> Classic Negative
> Nostalgic Negative
> Reala Ace

Your sage advise would be most appreciated.

It's important to understand the difference between simulations and recipes. Simulations are just a base - You'd know them as creative looks on Sony. Recipes on the other hand, are a list of settings that include the simulation, white balance, shadow/highlights, grain, clarity etc.
You can find a bunch of good recipes with example photos on https://fujixweekly.com/recipes/

As it happens I've sold my Fuji gear and gone to Sony, so I can't reference my settings, but from memory I believe most of my shots were taken with the following settings -

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: Auto
Highlight: 0
Shadow: -1
Color: -1
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -1
Clarity: 0
Grain Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: Auto (or Daylight), +2 Red & -2 Blue


It's a good all-rounder, isn't overly stylised but slightly warm . I'd occasionally switch up the simulation to Provia for a more neutral look (this might be better in spring on blue sky days), or change to Classic Neg in post (It wasn't available on my X-T3 so I had to do it in post) for a more vintage look. Most of my Japan shots were Classic Chrome or Classic Neg based.
I never really found a way to enjoy Nostalgic Neg or Reala Ace, but everyone is different.

For black and white, I'd go pretty much default Acros - I think I set grain small/weak. I'd often tweak shadows on the fly depending on the scene - If I had problems with contrast/dynamic range I'd typically use exposure comp to get the highlights in check, then adjust the shadows depending on what was needed - more contrast I'd go +1 shadow, less contrast -1 shadow, that was normally enough.
If I was after the high contrast black sky look, I'd switch to Acros + R.

JPG's are great and all, but I would very much recommend shooting RAW and JPG. It's hard to argue a case against it when you consider what it gives you - the ability to radically change the style or reprocess in a few years if/when your skills have improved or your tastes change, it's a form of backup (set Raw to one card, JPG to the other), and offers more recovery for high dynamic range scenes/messed up exposures etc.

Also take plenty of storage. I took an SD adapter and external SSD, and had to offload my 64GB cards several times during my 19 day trip.

I hope you enjoy your trip as much as I did. It's an incredible place!


 
I am not sure I am the right person to speak to about SOOC Jpeg from Fuji, I almost always end up tweaking it in Lr after. I think all the photos I have posted here are that way.

No one single setting is good for all photos, so i inevitably will fix them in post.

I tend to use Astia as a base then adjust to suit.

This one starts off as that, but there is the usually contrast, saturation and clarity adjustments but there are also spot clone, gradient exposure and gradient white balance shift and some brush work.

38292737e433.jpeg
 
Nice.

Do you turn the contrast down (or the highlights) to reduce flare and glow from the artificial lights?
 
I’m not 100% familiar with the Fuji workflow, but can you shoot raw and apply in post?

I suppose that’s always the compromise with a baked in look is there is no going back.

When I went abroad I did actually tweak my base preset to complement the different light and architecture.

The other approach is just “bracket” them - first few shots try a different preset and see what works best and then just stick with it.

That’s why I prefer the raw workflow - one less thing to think about when I’m taking the pic!
You can shoot raw and apply the simulations in post. The only time that I change the simulation on the camera is if I'm shooting B&W, I switch to Acros.

I would probably go for Provia, Acros and Nostalgic Neg as my main simulations. but in reality I never use the jpegs.
 
You can shoot raw and apply the simulations in post. The only time that I change the simulation on the camera is if I'm shooting B&W, I switch to Acros.

I would probably go for Provia, Acros and Nostalgic Neg as my main simulations. but in reality I never use the jpegs.

Capture one imports the raw with the JPG preview applied, so for me it was really helpful to get to grips with the recipe settings and get it "near as damn" in camera - it gave me the baked in look with the flexibility of raw. Best of both worlds.

I've now switched to sony, and capture one doesn't import sony files like that (it doesn't even support creative looks, which are the sony equivalent of film sim). I'm having to work MUCH harder to get the files where I want them to be.
 
You can always use simulation bracketing.

It takes the same picture and applies the 3 different simulations that you have chosen in the menu.

I normally have standard, velvia and monochrome ye se on mine
 
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