focusing issue

[EBPhotoCT]

So I've been using spot metering as told by the teacher that taught our class. And I've been having focus issues. So been researching to read not to use unless your subject is out of the focus points. Is this true? I've switched up my settings to see if it works. I've set my mark ii to back focus. So the focus stays SET and I can recompose without refocusing. Something I just learned. I've know about back focus but never read up on it. So gonna try it. I also didn't know what to use to set a focus point threw the viewfinder. Finally found the button should this all work for better focused pictures?

 

[Surrey Weddings]

i am a fan of the back focus button.... alwayds focus on the centre point as it works better...

 

[EBPhotoCT]

So focus from middle point then recompose? I read any slight moment back or forth will throw your photo out of focus. Thought maybe that's why I was having focus issues. Is that with any points if you move?

 

[Phil V]

So focus from middle point then recompose? I read any slight moment back or forth will throw your photo out of focus. Thought maybe that's why I was having focus issues. Is that with any points if you move?

There's no instruction for this, there are too many variables.

Focus recompose is useless with wide apertures,

Some cameras have awesome outer focus points, on some they're awful

Some cameras will require recompose anyway because of the placement if the focus points.

Some lenses allow better accuracy with some cameras.

So there's no consensus or rule of thumb to help with this. You have to find what works for you, your lenses and your camera.

 

[DizMatt]

hi Bambi
can I ask in what context have you been told to use this?
just curious, it seems unusual to use spot metering and then use peripheral focus points
unless the 'spot' follows the focus point which I didn't think that it did.

 

[nigpd]

I agree with Phil. The only proper way of finding our how your camera/lens/subject combinations work is by testing.

For each shot you set up, document the settings and the focus point(s) used, whether you have recomposed and how you recomposed etc.

Then on the PC, study the results and see what works and what doesnt

 

[EBPhotoCT]

I read from improvephotography.com I don't think I know what the heck I'm doing lol. I'm gonna mess around with my camera today.

 

[HoppyUK]

There's no instruction for this, there are too many variables.

Focus recompose is useless with wide apertures,

Some cameras have awesome outer focus points, on some they're awful

Some cameras will require recompose anyway because of the placement if the focus points.

Some lenses allow better accuracy with some cameras.

So there's no consensus or rule of thumb to help with this. You have to find what works for you, your lenses and your camera.

That's just not true Phil. Focus-recompose, with the centre AF point, is very accurate unless a) you are very close, like 2-3ft, b) you're using a very low f/number like 2.8 or lower, and c) your subject is a long way off-centre, hence a big shift of angle.

Typically that might be a portrait, a tight head shot, when the eye you want sharp is off to one side, and you're using too short a lens and are therefore too close and creating that larger angle shift. Use a longer lens, as you should anyway, from a sensible 5-6ft distance at least.

IMHO, the most likely cause of mis-focus in a situation like that is backwards/forwards movement of the subject or photographer, or both, after focusing.

To the OP, if you're a newcomer, and don't have a good understanding of the mid 18% grey concept that underpins correct exposure, using spot metering will get you into a pickle.

 

[EBPhotoCT]

So maybe I should get out of spot metering? Until I REALLY know it?

 

[EBPhotoCT]

Overall.... IS spot metering the way to go? Are the other ones not good to use?

 

[HoppyUK]

So maybe I should get out of spot metering? Until I REALLY know it?

Overall.... IS spot metering the way to go? Are the other ones not good to use?

Spot metering is very useful in difficult situations, when you understand fully what it's doing (ie the mid-grey thing mentioned above) and are shooting in manual mode.

If not, when your subject is darker than mid-grey you will get over-exposure, and if it's lighter you will get under-exposure.

Use evaluative/matrix for normal shooting until you're confident. It's far more reliable.

 

[Phil V]

As Richard said, spot metering is only useful if you can look at the spot and assess how far from mid grey it is.

I don't mind admitting that after 30 years of photography, that's not me. I can show you an average scene, I can show you when a scene will fool your meter. I can show yiu a midtone But I can't accurately say Caucasian cheek 2 stops over, brick wall 1 stop under etc. That's the skill you need for spot metering.

Eval metering is very clever, and I'd suggest learning where it'll be fooled before trying to get your head round spot. My metering methods are very consistent and that's the important thing rather than deciding to arbitrarily choose a mode, find what works for you.

 

[EBPhotoCT]

Great! Thanks everyone

 

[Phil V]

That's just not true Phil. Focus-recompose, with the centre AF point, is very accurate unless a) you are very close, like 2-3ft, b) you're using a very low f/number like 2.8 or lower, and c) your subject is a long way off-centre, hence a big shift of angle.

Typically that might be a portrait, a tight head shot, when the eye you want sharp is off to one side, and you're using too short a lens and are therefore too close and creating that larger angle shift. Use a longer lens, as you should anyway, from a sensible 5-6ft distance at least.

IMHO, the most likely cause of mis-focus in a situation like that is backwards/forwards movement of the subject or photographer, or both, after focusing.

To the OP, if you're a newcomer, and don't have a good understanding of the mid 18% grey concept that underpins correct exposure, using spot metering will get you into a pickle.

Richard, I definitely qualified the sentence with 'large apertures' for most people most of the time it's fine, but I feel people should be aware of the limitations (you went on to list Thanks).

There's no instruction for this, there are too many variables.

Focus recompose is useless with wide apertures,
.