Flashing Fish

[Skyline]

Down at my local pet store they let me practice on their pets (reptiles to fish). In reply I give the good ones they put on their facebook page.

As this is a busy place I can't set up lamps etc. So the other day I was experimenting using a off camera flash (canon 430ex with cord).
It really was a case of 10 out of 40 came out ok'ish.
I held the flash over the top of the tanks, and to the side of the tanks.
Is there anything I can do that will hit the mark most times?

These were taken with a macro lens. About 200sec, f4-7. Flash was put on manual between 1/4 and 32.

So, 1 in 4 shots look ok. What can I do to improve this and how can I make the fish freeze? This is a big thing I want to learn as a lot of the photos came out fish blur.

I'm learning all the time so no big fancy words please

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[michael kilner]

These look v.nice,if you are using a macro lens at a short distance your DOF will be very narrow esp at the F stops you are using.If possible I would up the aperture to about F16.The flash will stop any movement of the fish but as shot 1 shows,the front of the fish is in focus but the rest is off, not because of movement but DOF limitations

 

[Skyline]

These look v.nice,if you are using a macro lens at a short distance your DOF will be very narrow esp at the F stops you are using.If possible I would up the aperture to about F16.The flash will stop any movement of the fish but as shot 1 shows,the front of the fish is in focus but the rest is off, not because of movement but DOF limitations

Thank you Michael. If I up the aperture with the photo come out darker? If that's the case should I set the flash higher?

 

[RBaker]

Thank you Michael. If I up the aperture with the photo come out darker? If that's the case should I set the flash higher?

Exactly what you say, though it may be an idea to start around f8 and take it from there.

 

[Nod]

If you're getting subject movement blur, turn down the ambient lighting (if possible) so there's not enough to give enough light to register in the photograph - the flash will be of short enough duration to freeze them.

It's worth getting a rubber lens hood to fit the lens(es) you use for tank shots - it can be used to create a light seal and will greatly reduce the reflections that can otherwise be a PITA.

 

[specialman]

Those are very nice. Really sharp and natural looking.

The main thing I'd do would be to fit a small softbox, just to diffuse the light slightly. Even though the bare flash has quite a large apparent light source size compared to the subject, you can still tell it's hard light because of the defined shadows. Fit something like one of those mini soft boxes and even though it'll eat up a stop or two or power (increase your ISO to compensate) it should give a more natural, diffused light.

Also, think about light distance from the subject - that can have a big impact on the type of shadows you create. obviously, you're limited by reach, space and the height of the tank.

The changing power settings on the flash are probably relating to the distance the flash was from the fish...

I did some shots of a fish in a tank with full studio lighting - I'll dig a shot out to illustrate the soft box thing

 

[Skyline]

Exactly what you say, though it may be an idea to start around f8 and take it from there.

Thank you Robert.

If you're getting subject movement blur, turn down the ambient lighting (if possible) so there's not enough to give enough light to register in the photograph - the flash will be of short enough duration to freeze them.

It's worth getting a rubber lens hood to fit the lens(es) you use for tank shots - it can be used to create a light seal and will greatly reduce the reflections that can otherwise be a PITA.

Could you link me please to one. Thanks.

Those are very nice. Really sharp and natural looking.

The main thing I'd do would be to fit a small softbox, just to diffuse the light slightly. Even though the bare flash has quite a large apparent light source size compared to the subject, you can still tell it's hard light because of the defined shadows. Fit something like one of those mini soft boxes and even though it'll eat up a stop or two or power (increase your ISO to compensate) it should give a more natural, diffused light.

Also, think about light distance from the subject - that can have a big impact on the type of shadows you create. obviously, you're limited by reach, space and the height of the tank.

The changing power settings on the flash are probably relating to the distance the flash was from the fish...

I did some shots of a fish in a tank with full studio lighting - I'll dig a shot out to illustrate the soft box thing

That make so much sense I can't believe I didn't take it with me. I do own one so will take it next time.

Some fish are difficult to get as they are in the middle of rows of tanks so I have to flash them from the top or at a slight angle.



Thank you all for the help.