Flash settings

-Paul-

-Paul-

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I've been reading a lot about flash photography lately and have a (theoretical?) question. If I dont bounce the flash and the distance from the flash to the subject is X and the settings are y. If I then decided to bounce the flash would the settings be different?
I'am thinking along the lines of if I bounce the flash it has further to travel(?) and it would/could be slightly weaker when it got there.:thinking:
If so how do I compensate:shrug:
This might sound like a daft question but it's really bugging me.
Thanks for your help.:thankyou:
 
-Paul- said:
I've been reading a lot about flash photography lately and have a (theoretical?) question. If I dont bounce the flash and the distance from the flash to the subject is X and the settings are y. If I then decided to bounce the flash would the settings be different?
I'am thinking along the lines of if I bounce the flash it has further to travel(?) and it would/could be slightly weaker when it got there.:thinking:
If so how do I compensate:shrug:
This might sound like a daft question but it's really bugging me.
Thanks for your help.:thankyou:
Click to expand...

I have also been looking at this. If you use iTTL then you don't need to compensate as the camera/flash adjusts for you.... Now watching intently for answers from people who actually know what they are talking about...... :D
 
you will lose intensity of light as you say, but diffused is much better so set your flash to a more powerful (or longer reach) setting. On my SB600 (nikon flashgun) it has a focal length setting as well as an EV compensation adjustment which can add more light. Have you tried using a brolly?

(oops just saw the 'know what you're talking about' bit... lol... oh well)
 
Ive got the speedlite 580 EX II and i dont get how it works either... (yes im a bit think when it comes to this lol)
 
If you using the flash in some kind of auto mode (ETTL, etc) then you don't need to do anything.

If you're shooting with the flash in manual then a flash meter would be the sensible option. You could work out the distance but you'd also have to take into account the reduction due to the scattering of the light. A flash meter would be much quicker so would firing a test shot and checking the histogram on the camera.
 
Rule of thumb with bounce flash is to measure the flash-to-ceiling-to-subject distance, and add a stop (at least) for absortion and spread from the ceiling. For a cream coloured ceiling, you'll need to add even more and also get a slight colour cast.

TTL auto flash will do all the sums and compensate for you, but the danger is that the gun will run out of power as described above, so you'll generally be at least two stops down on a direct flash setting. With high ceilings, only the most powerful guns can cope. Smaller guns just run out of puff and underexpose. In which case, use a lower f/number and/or raise the ISO.
 
HoppyUK said:
Rule of thumb with bounce flash is to measure the flash-to-ceiling-to-subject distance, and add a stop (at least) for absortion and spread from the ceiling. For a cream coloured ceiling, you'll need to add even more and also get a slight colour cast.

TTL auto flash will do all the sums and compensate for you, but the danger is that the gun will run out of power as described above, so you'll generally be at least two stops down on a direct flash setting. With high ceilings, only the most powerful guns can cope. Smaller guns just run out of puff and underexpose. In which case, use a lower f/number and/or raise the ISO.
Click to expand...
If you left out the "S" you could have an abortion :lol:
 
The only sure fire way is to use a flash meter in the reflected light mode.
 
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