Flash and macro

swag72

swag72

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Sara
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I am going to use a 580ex II speedlite on macro photography in a set up similar to 'stan the man' in this thread.

I saw something earlier that has got me a little confused, so thought I'd ask this dumb question while I wait for the PO to open and I can collect my light, magic and ......stuff book.

If I am using this for a mcro set up and it is already nice and bright, and say the shutter speed is at 1/300. Will I be able to just tell the flash to give me more light so that I can shoot at an even quicker shutter speed?

I am a TOTAL newb at flash, so please bear with me and my dumb questions!!
 
You can set a shutter speed faster but it wont help much... as to why I dont really know.. All I know is that your camera has a flash sync speed of 1/250s and therefore thats the fastest shutter speed you can use with a flash.
 
eeverson said:
"The sync speed is the fastest speed at which the entire film or CCD can be open to light. This is determined by how fast the shutter curtains move."
Click to expand...

:thinking: If 1/250 is the synch speed - the fastest speed at which the sensor can be open to light - How can I get a shutter speed of higher than this is bright sunlight - even if the pic is a total whiteout? :thinking::thinking:

Mmmm ................ Shutters and curtains :thinking: Must read more!!
 
i'm being thick probably

i have a 430ex and i can hi speed sync it above 250.

which i regularly do for macro and i find it does help quite a bit
 
You could look in your flash gun instructions for 'High speed sync' I think that's what its called and enables you to use faster shutter speeds. I haven't got my manual to hand, so can't confirm, sorry.
 
This article helped me understand flash sync and high speed sync. Link

A single flash burst is able to cover the complete illumination of your sensor as the curtain moves accross in a fastest time of 1/250th of a second. Any faster and the flash burst will illuminate the actual curtain passing over the sensor and you'll get a letterbox effect. This is due to the flash "freezing" the action of the shutter. In Sunlight the light is constant so the curtain is not recorded as light still falls on all of the sensor as the curtain passes over it.

High speed sysc means that the falsh produces a burst of flash shots to overcome the letter box effect. As a result the effective range of the flash will reduce as the flash power is not as high.

The article explains it better than I can!!

Rob
 
I thought the sync speed was just the error in the time it takes the flash to actually flash. if you use a 1/60s shutter speed then the flash syn of 1/250 is fine. you can even flash at the open or close section of the 'curtain'

however, if you are using 1/1000s for your shutter speed, then weather the flash fires in synchronisation with your shutter is hit and miss, or completely miss.

however, I could be quite quite utterly wrong.
feel free to flame
 
i don't want to be annoying, but if you are shooting digital..........

who cares?

click, chimp, adjust x1000

not a brilliant strategy for insects admittedly, but it will help you learn the basics and then you can go out and hunt those pesky flash defying insects with a better understanding of what your kit is capable of.
 
stan the man said:
sara...all i do to control the light/brightness is adjust the flash compensation on the camera.on a bright day,i set it at about -1 to stop blowing the highlights.a bit of experimenting will soon have you getting it right :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments - I've got the velcro, hood and off shoe cord - Just need the diffuser and flash now!!!
 
Just a twopenorth of my flash thoughts. The shutter speed is not very important when you consider the duration of flash.. A shutter speed of 1/250 is 4 ms compared to a flash duration of 100 us.
 
I wrote this DIY guide for macro flash:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=556002

Shoot manual, ISO 100, F/11 and 1/250s. At those settings the ambient (when shooting around 1:1) should be pretty much gone and your flash will effectively be your shutter. The very fast burst of light it delivers will freeze any movement by you or the critter in your sights, like this:





Hand held, using the rig I created in the DIY :)
 
Sara, I've pinched stan the mans idea too and have just started shooting with this setup.

3563070572_e9f007c14e_o.jpg


Camera on Manual, ISO 200, 1/250 sec, f/11, 580EXII set to E-TTL and high speed sync.
 
Great stuff Richard. Liking the shot - Did you have a diffuser on the flash?

BTW, totally OT - I LOVE the lensbaby!! A zillion thank yous!
 
Hi Sara, thanks, yep this was with a Sto-Fen. I'm still getting to know the setup and have only used it a couple of times. Already it's proved to be easy to handle and more versatile than my previous bracket with the flash on an arm.

Glad you're enjoying the LB, I'm determined to have one again soon, enjoy. :)
 
Sara, on the 50D and 580EX II (same setup I use), you'll have to change the 580EX II to high speed sync which is literally 2 button presses!

Then it burst fires and you'll be able to wind the shutter up to 1/8,000. :thumbs:

If you need any more help gimme a PM and I'll talk you through it.
 
What do you need to get this close?

3563070572_e9f007c14e_o.jpg


Is it just the 100mm macro or do you need tubes as well? I'd like to dab into macro photography.
 
Kryptix said:
What do you need to get this close?

Is it just the 100mm macro or do you need tubes as well? I'd like to dab into macro photography.
Click to expand...

This was the 180mm macro but a 90/100/105 macro would still give 1:1 and get as close.
 
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