As above. If you want useful tips on a photo, you MUST show people the photo as shot.It looks to me as if the variation on the background is from your PP. Its odd to have that distinct a divide on a BG and you've also left a few darker spots round his ear and shoulder. Do you think we could see a version with no PP
Thanks Joanna,i will be back there in 2 weeks time & will have another go at it.There is a big difference in the colour of the background over each shoulder and you can see a 'join' above his head where the shadow meets the light.
It might be worth concentration one light on the background and the other light on the subject to give you a more rounded colour on the background
I think it's a great start to studio lighting. Well done
Yep your right i tried to use PP to sort out the shadows but not quite right,will have another shoot with it in a few weeks.It looks to me as if the variation on the background is from your PP. Its odd to have that distinct a divide on a BG and you've also left a few darker spots round his ear and shoulder. Do you think we could see a version with no PP
Your spot on Garry,i have been looking at a lot of youtubes over the last couple of years,he does have a big round face.As above. If you want useful tips on a photo, you MUST show people the photo as shot.
Even without seeing the real photo though, the point that jumps out and hits me is that you've been reading consumer photo magazines or looking to YouTube for advice... This gentleman clearly has a round face, but I'm willing to bet that it is nowhere near as round as it looks here. What you've done is to light it from each side, presumably because you've been told that this is a 'professional' lighting arrangement, and in doing so you have killed shadows and also lit both sides of his face, making it look much wider than it is.




Apart from the lighting pattern, lesson no. 1 subject too close to the background. Everyone does it, and when they see how far away the regulars work they're always bemused.Your spot on Garry,i have been looking at a lot of youtubes over the last couple of years,he does have a big round face.
I did light it from each side the 45 deg. setup but obviously not right,also from advice i have read on here about using that setup.
Anyway our next meeting is in 2 weeks time & we will have another go at it,i did not realize until we were packing up they actually have 3 of these lastolight 400,s so i could have had one light on the background.
The club got a grant a while back before i joined & they bought all this stuff,light stands the lot but they did not know how it worked until i got it going last night eventually.
I use speedlights for my own use,it is purely a hobby for me but it would be nice to improve with this as the use of the studio lights are FREE.
So this is the original photo from last night.
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Drop the white BG, and you'll do yourself some favours, light from above and close and you could get a black BG if you're careful.Unfortunately there is not a lot of room in there,we can,t bring the subject 6ft. forward as there would be little room left to get the lights in front of him.
So i will just have to try something a bit different next time.![]()
Unfortunately there is not a lot of room in there,we can,t bring the subject 6ft. forward as there would be little room left to get the lights in front of him.
So i will just have to try something a bit different next time.![]()
Cheers Phil,will have a go at that next time.Drop the white BG, and you'll do yourself some favours, light from above and close and you could get a black BG if you're careful.
In hindsight i think thay were too far away.Just how far are the lights away from him?
Most people make the mistake of putting the lights TOO FAR from the subject and the subject TOO CLOSE to the background
Mike
We didn't really need to examine the catch lights, the lights should have been visible in the original un cropped image.In hindsight i think thay were too far away.
As i said at the very start of this thread i have never used studio lights before,not even touched one,as for modifiers i take it you mean brollies & the such.Why do I think the lights might be too far away? Look at the size of the catch lights, they are very small, so what modifiers did you have on the lights?
Mike
You can,t see the lights in the original shot i,m afraid.We didn't really need to examine the catch lights, the lights should have been visible in the original un cropped image.
If you've got softboxes, they're a better option in a small space. What are your other options?As i said at the very start of this thread i have never used studio lights before,not even touched one,as for modifiers i take it you mean brollies & the such.
They were reflective brollies shot at 1/125 F8 ISO 1OO
That's what I mean! They should have been close enough that they're visible on that shot.You can,t see the lights in the original shot i,m afraid.
I'm sure you'll be able to make it work.Well in 2 weeks time i will be having another go at it & see what happens,if it works fine if not i might just leave it there & stick to my own speedlights.
Thanks for your help Phil,will give it another go.I'm sure you'll be able to make it work.
