First softbox

Peter69

Peter69

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I'm looking for a softbox for primarily corporate style portraits.

If we start with I know nothing, what type of soft box do I need i.e size, shape, grid?

I was thinking of using a 2 flash setup but any advice on that would also be appreciated.
 
Are you going to use hotshoe flashguns or studio heads with the softbox?
Be aware that because hotshoe flashguns have a tiny, fixed reflector, they don't do a great job with softboxes, you need a studio flash head to distribute the light properly within the softbox, and you also need a studio flashhead if the softbox is bigger than about 60cm square.

Size is also dependent on size of studio and ceiling height - given that a natural place for any light is in front either of the subject or in front of where the subject's head is pointing, and above, a big softbox in a room with a low ceiling just won't go high enough

Shape is really just a matter of personal choice, most of the time. Get a softbox of the shape that produces catchlights (reflections of the light source in the eyes) that you like.

A honeycomb, provided that you don't get one of those awful ebay ones that are far too big and far too narrow to actually work) will reduce the spread of light to some extent, but their main function is to prevent lens flare when the light is travelling towards the lens, so if you're not doing backlighting or rimlighting then they're a bit pointless, most of the time.
 
Thanks for the replies.
room is 10 x10m but may have to use the 4x5m room.ceiling height 3m.
I was going to use speedlights purely because I do not do enough to warrant the cost of studio lights.
Speedlights are sb910 & 2x YN510 (maybe a 568 if I treat my self).

@Brian_of_Bozeat those were the ones I was looking at
 
Peter69 said:
Thanks for the replies.
room is 10 x10m but may have to use the 4x5m room.ceiling height 3m.
I was going to use speedlights purely because I do not do enough to warrant the cost of studio lights.
Speedlights are sb910 & 2x YN510 (maybe a 568 if I treat my self).

@Brian_of_Bozeat those were the ones I was looking at
Click to expand...
Except of course that branded hotshoe flashes cost more than most twin head studio lighting kits...

Given the ceiling height, I suggest that the max size of your softbox should be 1m.
A 60 x 60cm one will be just about adequate for a headshot of a single person, as long as you're not looking for soft lighting.
 
@Garry Edwards I hear what you are saying about cost but I already have the 3 flashes and they are easier to store.

This is the type of image I'm looking for
cam sml by Pete, on Flickr
 
not sure why its that big as its a low res image
 
be there next year I'm sure. I'm often at Santa Pod (that is if you are in Bozeat)
 
Indeed. Ah, I see your one of the bug jammers. [emoji5]️Pm me if you are coming over this way.
 
Personally, I've tried the Westcott style (as above) and find them useless. It's impossible to tilt them down enough because the light stand snags the softbox frame.

These are a much better option, with a proper lip which helps lighting control, removable grid, which changes the nature of the light massively, and a s type adaptor built in.

The s type adaptor can then further be used with other s type modifiers enabling you to build up a proper studio kit to build from this cheap start.

You can buy this without the grid for a lot less, but the grid is worth every penny IMHO.
 
They do look good Phil, I forgot about the tilt, for the rare occasions when I need to tilt, I have a boom arm, Price vs price they work out about the same when you factor that in. But I would argue that with the boom arm you can get it to point straight down like a ceiling light which "your" one can't do.

Hows the light off of those? - I ask because in the one I linked to the flash points into the box (away from the screen) and seems to come out with quite an even spread, when I have shot my flashes into smaller versions of the one you linked to I found there to be a significant hot spot (yes, I used the built in diffuser on the flash).
 
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sk66 said:
For that, just bang the flash off of the ceiling/wall behind you...
If you need to create the white BG in camera, use the other two speedlights in small boxes to light the BG.
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That was just the pose I tend to shoot but to me it looks really flat, its was taken in shadow on a sunny day.

I've only just noticed both suggestions are outside the UK with a long lead time
 
Peter69 said:
That was just the pose I tend to shoot but to me it looks really flat, its was taken in shadow on a sunny day.

I've only just noticed both suggestions are outside the UK with a long lead time
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It is really flat... you don't need advanced/technical lighting to create that.
 
Peter69 said:
That was just the pose I tend to shoot but to me it looks really flat, its was taken in shadow on a sunny day.

I've only just noticed both suggestions are outside the UK with a long lead time
Click to expand...
You can find UK held ones, particularly if you don't go for the grid (a recent addition).
 
Brian_of_Bozeat said:
They do look good Phil, I forgot about the tilt, for the rare occasions when I need to tilt, I have a boom arm, Price vs price they work out about the same when you factor that in. But I would argue that with the boom arm you can get it to point straight down like a ceiling light which "your" one can't do.

Hows the light off of those? - I ask because in the one I linked to the flash points into the box (away from the screen) and seems to come out with quite an even spread, when I have shot my flashes into smaller versions of the one you linked to I found there to be a significant hot spot (yes, I used the built in diffuser on the flash).
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I ended up buying a tilt bracket and extension arm for the rear facing one, but it makes it a bit unwieldy.

The light from the s type one is fine. I can't link em from here, but there's stuff on my Flickr of the runner and the archer (though they're shot with the Godox AD360
 
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Phil V said:
You can buy this without the grid for a lot less, but the grid is worth every penny IMHO.
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Is it deep enough? I have played with the thought of getting a 24" version an buying a Lencarta grid for it.
 
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I bought the 80x80 box that Phil linked to here from his recomendation.No grid though. Works fine with my speedlights. I also have 60 by 60 which works fine too.The bracket is VERY good strong and easy to use.

Gaz
 
Cistron said:
Is it deep enough? I have played with the thought of getting a 24" version an buying a Lencarta grid for it.
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I've done a DIY grid modification for mine, I have the 80cm version and bought a 100x80 grid and cut it down.
 
Brian_of_Bozeat said:
These are great. Evidence on my flickr. (first 4 images)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QUNGNTI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I believe they do a slightly bigger one as well.
Click to expand...

The main issue with those is that they don't tilt well on a stand and they only have the front diffuser panel, no inner diffuser.
I have the 80 cm octobox style one and to be honest am looking to upgrade to the lastolite ez box 2 octobox as it seems much better quality.
 
magicaxeman said:
The main issue with those is that they don't tilt well on a stand and they only have the front diffuser panel, no inner diffuser.
I have the 80 cm octobox style one and to be honest am looking to upgrade to the lastolite ez box 2 octobox as it seems much better quality.
Click to expand...

When you do I'll buy your 80cm Octa from you.
 
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I just use these and find them very good...... like yourself, not keen on hotshoe flashes firing onto the subject, even through a couple of layers of diffusion material...... I've got an 80cm octa as well, but find it a bit unwieldy and space-consuming.
 
DekHog said:
I just use these and find them very good...... like yourself, not keen on hotshoe flashes firing onto the subject, even through a couple of layers of diffusion material...... I've got an 80cm octa as well, but find it a bit unwieldy and space-consuming.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Why is the octa unwieldy if the soft box is roughly the same size?

Just found THIS one for a tenner! - I'm tempted but I've already bought too much photo kit this month.
 
Maybe it's just me, but simply the shape of it makes it appear a lot larger in use....... 80cm wide as opposed to 60cm wide for the one I linked which is a lot when you don't have much room...... the rectangular box is more shaped like a human being if you want to do half body shots. :)
 
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Yeah, I hear you. i have the 60x60 and its PLENTY big enough when used at home (3 bed semi). You have a good point about the shape, maybe I will go for a rectangle like yours to compliment the square one. Another point worth mentioning is that I have just bought the 622 triggers so I don't have to keep going inside to change the flash settings. Not a big deal but they will be helpful, my old dumb triggers have served me well but at 3 years old I feel I've had my moneys worth (about £15).
 
Omg. These surley can't get any cheaper :-)

Gaz
 
Brian_of_Bozeat said:
Just found THIS one for a tenner! - I'm tempted but I've already bought too much photo kit this month.
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Those pictures illustrate the issue brilliantly, without the diffuser on, that brolly is at the right angle for std portraiture, and you can see that the diffuser won't go on. The image with the diffuser fitted isn't at a suitable angle.
 
Phil V said:
Those pictures illustrate the issue brilliantly, without the diffuser on, that brolly is at the right angle for std portraiture, and you can see that the diffuser won't go on. The image with the diffuser fitted isn't at a suitable angle.
Click to expand...

Like I said above I have mine on a boom and I can have it any angle I like.
 
cargo said:
I bought the 80x80 box that Phil linked to here from his recomendation.No grid though. Works fine with my speedlights. I also have 60 by 60 which works fine too.The bracket is VERY good strong and easy to use.

Gaz
Click to expand...

Phil V said:
I've done a DIY grid modification for mine, I have the 80cm version and bought a 100x80 grid and cut it down.
Click to expand...

I have the 80x80 godox and it's great 1 speedlight does ok but there is some notice difference from centre to edge. But it's not that noticeable to me and the head shots I've done.

Phil and Gaz they now do a 80x80 grid and it's ok and cheap.
 
thanks guys but pretty confused now.
As I'm aiming to do waist up portraits is the 60x90 a better size?
I presume the softbox is slightly higher then the target and angled slightly down (Which is why @Phil V says the octagon version is no good)?
I will need an s bracket as beam is a bit awkward to use (remember I may have limited space).

If I've understood correctly either of these are what I'm looking for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80cm-31-5...12131dd:g:RCIAAOSwrklVRZyT&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111652051...&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
 
Peter69 said:
thanks guys but pretty confused now.
As I'm aiming to do waist up portraits is the 60x90 a better size?
I presume the softbox is slightly higher then the target and angled slightly down (Which is why @Phil V says the octagon version is no good)?
I will need an s bracket as beam is a bit awkward to use (remember I may have limited space).

If I've understood correctly either of these are what I'm looking for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80cm-31-5...12131dd:g:RCIAAOSwrklVRZyT&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111652051457?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
Click to expand...
They're both the same type of design.

It's not that they're 'no good' it's that they really need extra hardware to make them versatile enough. As Brian says he uses a boom arm >£50 and I have a knuckle joint and extension arm that cost me about £40.

IMHO The best 'type' is the one I linked, you might need to look for other sellers, but there are many advantages, I guarantee if you don't buy it first, you'll end up with one later.

In an ideal world, a large Octa or medium rectangular softbox are great tools, but as a first softbox to light with a speedlight, I'm not so sure.
 
Phil V said:
In an ideal world, a large Octa or medium rectangular softbox are great tools, but as a first softbox to light with a speedlight, I'm not so sure.
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With speedlights you might have something of a point. But IMO/IME anything ≤ 2ft is a bit of a waste. I'd just as soon use a 3ft umbrella...it doesn't get easier than that.
 
sk66 said:
With speedlights you might have something of a point. But IMO/IME anything ≤ 2ft is a bit of a waste. I'd just as soon use a 3ft umbrella...it doesn't get easier than that.
Click to expand...
I never suggested anything smaller than 2ft. :)
 
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