First flash setup - advise & comments appreciated

laser8

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Hi there

I am quite set on getting a "proper" flash for my GX1 and have done my bit of research, but I'd really appreciate your help on finalizing as there are some points on which I am not that sure, and other ideas of mine may be completely off.

So:

-TTL is something I'd like to have for the on-camera use - that rules out manual only flashes. I may get a cable for in-house off-camera use (macro / product shots). I understand Canon cables support TTL for Olympus/Panasonic, am I correct?

- Now for the off-camera: again I understand no wireless TTL for Panasonic micro43, so any radio trigger will do fine. I was planning to get a Pixel Soldier as it looks like a good combination of value for money.

- the thing that makes me wonder the most at this point is: is there a good point in getting a flash that has also the in built meter (auto mode)? I understand that even in auto mode I have to set ISO and F stop manually. I suppose that even with "auto" mode after firing a test shot I'd have to dial in EC by changing the power settings of the flash (or am I wrong?). That leaves me wondering if there is scope in getting a Oly FL600R/Pana FL360LE/Metz 58 or I could spare one third of the price and get a Metz 50/52 (or another similar option, if you remember of one).

Thanks!
 
Hi,
I have a Phottix OC-E3 cord that I use with my GX1 and FL-36R and the TTL indicator comes on the flash when the cord is connected and the M43 Flash Zoom appears to work too.

Have you read the Strobists blog, Lighting 101 section? It recommends using manual mode for portrait photography. So, I am currently looking to get a Pixel kit OR go for the wired route suggested on the above site. Not 100% sure which hotshoe adaptors + cable I need. Once I confirm I will post back here.

I have also spotted the following wireless kit which seems cheaper than the Pixel stuff and has mostly good reviews:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Channel-Wir...UTF8&colid=P8XC6PP605CM&coliid=I35J8WXZICBQY6
 
Hi,
I have a Phottix OC-E3 cord that I use with my GX1 and FL-36R and the TTL indicator comes on the flash when the cord is connected and the M43 Flash Zoom appears to work too.

Have you read the Strobists blog, Lighting 101 section? It recommends using manual mode for portrait photography. So, I am currently looking to get a Pixel kit OR go for the wired route suggested on the above site. Not 100% sure which hotshoe adaptors + cable I need. Once I confirm I will post back here.

I have also spotted the following wireless kit which seems cheaper than the Pixel stuff and has mostly good reviews:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Channel-Wir...UTF8&colid=P8XC6PP605CM&coliid=I35J8WXZICBQY6

Thanks Harry! Yes I checked the Strobist blog, quite some info there!

I am a bit doubtful about full manual, I don't always use it on the camera and don't think I'd always use it on a flash... What I was more wondering about is the usefulness of the "auto" mode when off-camera.

Re the ttl off camera - you just search ebay for "ttl cable panasonic" and there are a lot of cables to choose from (I do not even think you need any adapter with one of those)
 
Re the ttl off camera - you just search ebay for "ttl cable panasonic" and there are a lot of cables to choose from (I do not even think you need any adapter with one of those)

Thanks - the Phottix OC-E3 cord is a TTL cord (back when I bought it there werent that many 3rd party Panasonic TTL cables - hence a Canon version).

I was just trying to answer your question re: I understand Canon cables support TTL for Olympus/Panasonic, am I correct?

The "not 100% sure which hotshoe..." bit in my post was about getting some longer non-TTL cables e.g. a 5m or 10m cable in order to use the flash in manual mode.

Actually, I tried using the flash in manual mode - just adjusting the guide number and it seem to be pretty straightforward. Long story but I went to buy a TTL wireless kit but ended with a non-TTL set.
So, I figured I might as well give them a try - a few minutes of fiddling and I got pretty much the right level of flash for the shot - just by adjusting the GN.

Still need to explore the other features on the flash yet.

Also, I now remember that a few years when I had a Nikon DSLR with an SB-800 flash that did support full wireless TTL. I remember getting quite frustrated when the flash would not provide consistent lighting in TTL mode when I was trying to take simple indoor portrait shots.

I am no expert with this stuff and never ever considered using the flash in manual mode until I read the strobist blog. And after yesterday's test I think I am going to try using it....
 
I was all set to buy a Nissin Di466 FT but after reading your comment on 'auto' mode, I started reading into it. Now wondering like yourself if I really need a flash with 'auto mode'.

I know the Di466 FT has TTL support for my camera but I am thinking about if/when I use it off camera with a cheap no-TTL wireless trigger...

Can someone more knowledgeable on here please comment on how useful the auto mode would be? You would be helping two of us with your answer :D
 
Last edited:
I was all set to buy a Nissin Di466 FT but after reading your comment on 'auto' mode, I started reading into it. Now wondering like yourself if I really need a flash with 'auto mode'.

I know the Di466 FT has TTL support for my camera but I am thinking about if/when I use it off camera with a cheap no-TTL wireless trigger...

Can someone more knowledgeable on here please comment on how useful the auto mode would be? You would be helping two of us with your answer :D

The main advantage of auto-TTL flash is ease of use and speed of operation. Easy if you're lazy or don't have basic knowledge, and speed when you need to get a good exposure first time with no messing about. For example, flash is very sensitive to distance and in fluid social situations things can change very quickly and you simply don't have time to change anything even if you're good at estimating these things - the moment is now.

With remote flash, the circumstances are usually completely different. Flash/es have to be set up so by definition you have much more time and will almost certainly have quite a lot of control over the situation, and will want to take a lot more than one shot. In which case, manual is often the preferred option because once it's set, it can't change and will be consistent even if aspects of the shot are altered (like dark clothes changing to light) that might skew an auto system.
 
Thanks Richard,
Based on your answer I don't think auto is that important for me. I would only expect to the Di466 off camera as a 2nd flash for portraits. I already have FL36R for on camera / TTL use.

And apologies to laser8 for hijacking this thread...
 
Thanks Richard.

Harry - no problem at all, glad you did!

I just ordered a FL360LE (ttl, auto, manual) as it's small enough for on camera work and has the auto function. I think it may allow me an easier learning curve with off-camera lightning.
 
I was going to comment that the FL36R would be cheaper but I can see that the Panasonic versions seem to have come down/Oly have gone up in price since my time. Back then the Pana 360 was around 30% dearer than the Oly 36R.
Plus the 36R does not seem to be readily available anymore...

Also, on the subject of wireless triggers - I bought the Hahnel Combi TF kit and it works fine.
 
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