Finish/sealant for veneered oak doors?

OldCarlos

OldCarlos

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Just had 4 light oak internal doors fitted & want to know the best finish to apply to keep grubby finger marks etc from staining them.
I want to keep them as light/natural as poss + no sheen, so don't want varnish.

The joiner mentioned Osmo oil?

I know there are a few experienced decorators on here & also thinking @kendo1 may well have some good knowledge.

Thanks in advance.
 
:D

I've used Osmo oil for doors and it is very good. Seals and protects and not too expensive - about £20 to £25.
It's a combination of wax and oil.
It's unlike other oils that attract dust, or varnish which doesn't penetrate the wood.
It penetrates into the wood and keeps the doors from cracking/expanding etc.

I've also used bees wax which is a bit time consuming.
 
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kendo1 said:
:D

I've used Osmo oil for doors and it is very good. Seals and protects and not too expensive - about £20 to £25.
It's a combination of wax and oil.
It's unlike other oils that attract dust, or varnish which doesn't penetrate the wood.
It penetrates into the wood and keeps the doors from cracking/expanding etc.

I've also used bees wax which is a bit time consuming.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Ken. Presumably it isn't obvious when dried? I want to keep the doors light with no sheen.

Is there a specific one just for doors? Been looking online/Screwfix etc & there seem to be a few different sorts.
How much would I need for 4 doors?
Also, is it brush applied stuff (thin liquid) or waxy & cloth applied?

Apologies for all the questions as I hadn't heard of it before.
 
OldCarlos said:
Cheers Ken. (y)
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I think 1L should do 4 doors, it should do about 24 sqm. 4 doors, both sides, comes to about 16sqm for one coat.
The lock stiles get the most wear so it might be worth doing them twice if you don't want to buy two litres to do the whole doors.
Every door and wood is different, so you sometimes just have to see how it goes and looks.
Use a good brush (it's worth spending a decent amount on a proper one) and apply thinly.
 
I use what we used on the narrow boats - Goldspar Satin Yacht varnish. It does have a slight amber tint to it deepening the colour a little, but in this regard I find it exactly the same as my oiled doors. (I varnished some and the rest I left oiled, I can't tell which is which now they're fitted). Far tougher than oil finish of course, it's incredibly hard wearing. Here's a p*** poor phone shot of my new editing station showing the plain oak sides of the bookshelf with the varnished facing strips along the shelves (I'd already made and painted the shelves before the sides arrived!)

DSC_0296.jpg
 
You mentioned veneered doors. Before I put any oil on them I'd check the thickness of the veneer and investigate the possibility of the oil soaking in to the point that it could loosen the veneer.
Just my first thought, I'm not an expert.
 
Graham W said:
You mentioned veneered doors. Before I put any oil on them I'd check the thickness of the veneer and investigate the possibility of the oil soaking in to the point that it could loosen the veneer.
Just my first thought, I'm not an expert.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the joiner said some of the veneer door manufacturers only recommend certain products, so thanks for mentioning it. (y)

kendo1 said:
Every door and wood is different, so you sometimes just have to see how it goes and looks.
Use a good brush (it's worth spending a decent amount on a proper one) and apply thinly.
Click to expand...

They're Howdens Linear oak doors & we really like the pale matt colour, so hopefully the Osmo oil won't colour/darken them too much. I see they actually recommend the Osmo oil now on their site & it's a relatively new item from their stock.
The joiner is going to pick up a litre for us from Howdens. (I can't seem to find it stocked anywhere else local to us, without shopping online)

Many thanks guys. :cool:
 
kendo1 said:
You didn't follow the link... :)
Click to expand...
I've got veneered doors that could do with a sprucing ( :D ) up, that looks like just what I need, cheers Ken :)
 
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I've used Osmo oil on our wooden kitchen worktops. It's brilliant stuff. Obviously worktops take more of a bashing and get wiped down far more than doors do, but they do need recoating every year to keep them looking good. Not sure if doors would be the same?
 
boogie man said:
I've used Osmo oil on our wooden kitchen worktops. It's brilliant stuff. Obviously worktops take more of a bashing and get wiped down far more than doors do, but they do need recoating every year to keep them looking good. Not sure if doors would be the same?
Click to expand...

I don't think our doors will get grubby enough to need re-doing very often at all tbh (fingers crossed) but good to know. (y)

*Just a note for anyone else in case they're looking at the Osmo oils, there are quite a few different ones for different applications/wear etc doors,worktops, floors.......so make sure you order the correct stuff.


The joiner called into Howdens this aft to pick a 1ltr tin up for us & they wanted £42 :eek: so he didn't bother.
Ordered from http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/ & should be delivered tomorrow.

Edit. Arrived this aft. 23hrs from Kent to Lancs. :cool:
 
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OldCarlos said:
The joiner called into Howdens this aft to pick a 1ltr tin up for us & they wanted £42 :eek: so he didn't bother.
Ordered from http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/ & should be delivered tomorrow.
Click to expand...


Strewth! Bit of profiteering from Howdens there.

Amazon sell Osmo stuff. They actually worked out the cheapest for me on the worktop oil...some places look cheaper initially but then want nearly £10 on top for p&p.
 
OldCarlos said:
I don't think our doors will get grubby enough to need re-doing very often at all tbh (fingers crossed) but good to know. (y)

*Just a note for anyone else in case they're looking at the Osmo oils, there are quite a few different ones for different applications/wear etc doors,worktops, floors.......so make sure you order the correct stuff.


The joiner called into Howdens this aft to pick a 1ltr tin up for us & they wanted £42 :eek: so he didn't bother.
Ordered from http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/ & should be delivered tomorrow.

Edit. Arrived this aft. 23hrs from Kent to Lancs. :cool:
Click to expand...

Just a note on holding the brush seeing as you are doing four doors, both sides.
Most people, even some professionals, hold the brush incorrectly and you end up with blisters on the side of your middle finger.
This way is like holding a pencil which is okay with no pressure.

The correct way is to place the handle between your thumb and first finger and all your fingers flat against the body of the brush, your thumb is on the opposite side of the brush from your fingers.
Imagine you are wearing mittens! Good control and no blisters.
 
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kendo1 said:
Just a note on holding the brush seeing as you are doing four doors, both sides.
Most people, even some professionals, hold the brush incorrectly and you end up with blisters on the side of your middle finger.
This way is like holding a pencil which is okay with no pressure.

The correct way is to place the handle between your thumb and first finger and all your fingers flat against the body of the brush, your thumb is on the opposite side of the brush from your fingers.
Imagine you are wearing mittens! Good control and no blisters.
Click to expand...


Cheers Ken. (y) Yep that is the way I normally hold a brush, strangely. I used to hold a table tennis bat the same way too. :cool:

Hopefully i'll be doing them tomorrow. (well actually I WILL be doing them tomorrow, because that was my excuse not to go to a kids Christmas party ;) )
 
Personally I would use a roller, much quicker and you won't get any streaks.
 
All done, 2 hrs 10 mins. Easy stuff to apply & doesn't smell strong/unpleasant. :cool:

Just need to keep grubby fingers off until it dries!
 
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