Filter for 10-20mm lens

[ynot]

What type of filter is best for the lens mentioned?

I see alot of people going for a CPL. But just as many people warning you not to.
If they are the way to go then what type. The slim one was recommened (not sure what the difference would be, like wise with the double coated)

Would i be better off just getting a UV filter?

Any suggestions/recommendations?

 

[HoppyUK]

I've never heard anyone recommend against a CPL (Circular PoLarising filter) - they are good. Many people advise against getting a UV filter because all they do is offer some degree of physical protection - nothing else with digital - which you usually don't need if you are careful (sea spray is the main exception) but often degrade the image by inducing flare. A lens hood also offers protection and reduces flare.

Polarising filters can also cause flare but they also do a lot to enhance the image - they darken blue skies, and reduce reflections, sometimes completely, and in so doing increase colour saturation. Popular with landscape photographers.

The rule with any filter is to use a good quality one, multi-coated if possible.

A circular polariser refers to the construction of the polarising layers, not the actual shape. They can be both round or square. A slim-mount filter is a good idea with a 10-20mm super-wide lens as it protrudes fractionally less, preventing vignetting (darkened corners when the edge of the filter actually gets in the way of the photo). You might get away without one though. Square-mount filter systems protrude too far to work without vignetting on super-wides.

The best polarising filters are Hoya Pro-1 and HD filters and although expensive are better value than other makes like B+W.

 

[davem]

I would say that unless you have a specific purpose for the filter, then there's no point in going for it. For example if you want to cut reflections on lakes, cars and soforth then buy a CPL. If you're going up mountains or want to reduce haze, then buy a UV. But in my mind at least it's reasonably pointless to buy a filter just for the sake of having it.

If you do choose to buy one then the above advice is spot on. MLC filters are essential; I've used cheap in the past and you can tell the difference in the way the camera auto-focuses and also the image quality (flare, colours, etc).

 

[dab66]

UV filter just protects the lens. You decide if you think you need that.

CPL filters can give strange effects on uwa lenses. I tried one on my 10-20mm and got very patchy skies in sunny conditions.

 

[HoppyUK]

I would say that unless you have a specific purpose for the filter, then there's no point in going for it. For example if you want to cut reflections on lakes, cars and soforth then buy a CPL. If you're going up mountains or want to reduce haze, then buy a UV. But in my mind at least it's reasonably pointless to buy a filter just for the sake of having it.

If you do choose to buy one then the above advice is spot on. MLC filters are essential; I've used cheap in the past and you can tell the difference in the way the camera auto-focuses and also the image quality (flare, colours, etc).

UV filters have no effect on the image with digital. UV is a film problem. All digital cameras have UV filters over the sensor (IR as well).

UV filter just protects the lens. You decide if you think you need that.

CPL filters can give strange effects on uwa lenses. I tried one on my 10-20mm and got very patchy skies in sunny conditions.

True, they can. Polarisers work better at different angles to the light and with a super-wide the total angle of view is so wide that the filter will affect different areas of a blue sky to different amounts.

If you don't like the effect, you can tone it down by rotating the filter. Or just take it off.

 

[ynot]

Some fantastic advice there, thank you very much.

 

[bl0at3r]

Skylight or UV filters are cheap and protect the front of your investment from damage

This IMO is the only filter you must have for every lens in your bag

A CPL can boost colours and reduce reflections. An ND Grad is also a good one to have in your kit bag.

With the exception of the CPL and ND Grad, pretty much every other filter effect can be recreated in the digital darkroom these days - so unless you're a purist who loves sticking filters on the front of their camera, I would stick with these.