Film recipes

freecom2

freecom2

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Let's get everyone out of the woodwork...!

I'm looking for interesting film recipes. I like nice contrasty negatives, with a bit of punch to them.

I've been happy with T-Max 400 and T-Max Developer, the results using Ilford chemicals were (IMO) not as great.

I'm tempted to try some APX 100 + Rodinal next? I also want to try some fast films, but there's a lot of contrasting opinions between Delta 3200, TMY 3200 and Neopan 1600, and I can't quite get my head around them!
 
My preferred recipie is PanF @50 in stock ID-11. For more speed I like Tri-x or HP5+ in the same dev.

I'm experimenting with 100 speed films at the moment, I'm rather liking Fuji Acros and Ilford Delta 100, but haven't been able to compare them like for like properly yet. To be honest I think PanF is a cut above everything for a small decrease in speed over the 100 speed films.

I have a roll of Tmax 3200 to try which should be fun.

To be honest though I can see myself sticking with ID-11. It's great, simple and cheapish to use, and for the volume I shoot (perhaps a roll a fortnight unless I go somewhere special) then it's not that worthwile experimenting until I have a whole room I can dedicate to my film processing. As it is, I have a shelf...

Cheers
ped

P.s I'm going to shoot the Tmax at 3200 just to see what happens, though I think it's recommended at 1600?
 
Delta 3200 works best at either 1000 or 1600 ISO for some reason.

I did that some time ago and deved it in ID-11 which worked well for me.

I have done T-Max 3200 in FD-10 which gave a really flat neg.

You could try Tri-X pushed to 800 or 1600 and deved for 1 hour in Rodinal at 1:100.

I did some Neopan 400 like that and it gave some nice results which are on my flickr.

Are you scanning the neg or wet printing the neg?
 
Did you shoot the Tmax @3200?

I will take a peek at your flickr at home later on.

Looking forward to hearing what other people like to use. I wonder how much of it is about being used to the film or the chemicals, or weather the fave recipies are dependent on results. Personally i'm basing my favouritism on the fact that ID11 is the first dev I used and I'm uneasy about changing it up at this stage until I perfect a few other things in my workflow. It's exciting to think there are more variables out there to play with.

Cheers
ped
 
ped said:
Did you shoot the Tmax @3200?
Cheers
ped
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I did about 3 years ago but none of that is on flickr at the moment, if you want I'll rescan and stick a couple up.
 
Ok I will dig them out and upload them tonight when I get home.

Nearly all my 35mm stuff is scanned using a Nikon CoolscanIV. An old machine but it works well for what I want to do, the 120 stuff I use a Microtek 120 scanner with Silverfast (yuk) software.
 
Nick - aren't most of the 3200/1600 films actually about ~800-1200 ISO anyway? That's why they work so well at those ratings. I just want something that can be used for indoor shots, thus the thinking about films that can be pushed to 3200, but the results and comments about actually using them at 3200 doesn't seem to be great.
 
Try Neopan 400 pushed to 1600 in tmax developer, much better than Fuji 1600 or tmax 3200 pulled a stop.
 
freecom2 said:
Nick - aren't most of the 3200/1600 films actually about ~800-1200 ISO anyway? That's why they work so well at those ratings. I just want something that can be used for indoor shots, thus the thinking about films that can be pushed to 3200, but the results and comments about actually using them at 3200 doesn't seem to be great.
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Not sure about TMax 3200 only used it the once, but Delta 3200, if you read the data sheet, works well at 1600. At least that is what most people say and I have to agree.

Like Edtog says you could try pushing Neopan 400 (not done it myself) or the other which which seems a favorite to push is the Kodak Tri-X films, 400 on the box but search flickr and you should find it rated at 800, 1600, 3200.
 
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Knikki said:
Not sure about TMax 3200 only used it the once, but Delta 3200, if you read the data sheet, works well at 1600. At least that is what most people say and I have to agree.

Like Edtog says you could try pushing Neopan 400 (not done it myself) or the other which which seems a favorite to push is the Kodak Tri-X films, 400 on the box but search flickr and you should find it rated at 800, 1600, 3200.
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I shot some legacy pro (read neopan 400) at 1600 and developed it in microphen. Looked hardly any different to being treated normally. Really nice - let down by photographer tho. :D
 
Will do, when I get the chance. Need to find things to shoot, partly - I really struggle to get through a 36 exposure roll.
 
freecom2 said:
I really struggle to get through a 36 exposure roll.
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Time to move up to medium format :lol:

Then you can have 15, 12, 10, 8, 4 shots depending on what format you use :)

DOH! :bang: just mooching about and realised you have a Yashica Mat so scrub the above comments.
 
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freecom2 said:
Will do, when I get the chance. Need to find things to shoot, partly - I really struggle to get through a 36 exposure roll.
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If you're developing your own, and don't want to go down the bulk loading route (or go medium/large format) you could always snip the exposed part of the film off in darkroom/changing bag and develop that. cut the film in the camera, reload it and finish.

You'll lose a few frames though (and waste more chems developing shorter strips), so you may as well shoot more/bracket more!
 
Knikki said:
DOH! :bang: just mooching about and realised you have a Yashica Mat so scrub the above comments.
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Hehe, that's partly why I love shooting MF so much, 12 shots suits me far more. Even shooting digital I hardly rack up the shutter actuations.

offline said:
You'll lose a few frames though (and waste more chems developing shorter strips), so you may as well shoot more/bracket more!
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I've heard of this method quite a lot, although I must say the thought of going anywhere near my camera in a dark room with a pair of scissors and the MX's cloth shutter scares me slightly! :lol: yeah, I'm just not an especially trigger happy person (I look at a motor drive and think, 'that's useful for adding some weight to the camera!' rather than 'that allows me to shoot at 4fps!')
 
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