FILM QUERY

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Wayne
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Can a film roll be developed again after fixing and drying.

I am trying a new dilution and time it would be handy if I could just pop it in the developer again if I don't like it.
 
Pretty sure that you can't.

To do a test/experiment like that, I'd shoot a whole roll of the same scene with as close as possible the same lighting then cut the film into as many lengths as you want to test out (in a changing bag/darkroom!) then do the time tests. Make careful note of the developing variables so the results are (controllably) repeatable.
 
ITS a c41 film in BNW chemicals and besides the weird purple film base it looks like it might have turned out OK. see what the scans are like.
 
I don't know if it would work with C41 -- probably not -- but once upon a time our photographic ancestors would use a chromium intensifier. It doesn't redevelop the film, as that's not possible after fixing, but it does sort of enhance the contrast in the highlights and shadows when the negative is too thin.

Edit:

Here we are, I've found some useful info about intensifiers that's only 161 years old: https://cool.culturalheritage.org/albumen/library/monographs/sunbeam/chap18.html
 
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As Paul said, redevelopment isn't possible. The emulsion which is light sensitive (and coated on the film base) consists of silver halide (chloride or bromide) suspended in gelatin. The developer converts exposed grains to metallic silver, which appears black; the fixer dissolves away the remaining silver halide.

However, as David mentioned above, there are intensifiers that can increase the strength of the image. There are also corresponding reducers to remove silver - and they can be proportional (shave more off the darker highlight areas than the shadows) as well, so contrast could be adjusted.

Note that like development, it can be, shall we say, tricky to reverse once done.
 
I don't know if it would work with C41 -- probably not -- but once upon a time our photographic ancestors would use a chromium intensifier. It doesn't redevelop the film, as that's not possible after fixing, but it does sort of enhance the contrast in the highlights and shadows when the negative is too thin.

Edit:

Here we are, I've found some useful info about intensifiers that's only 161 years old: https://cool.culturalheritage.org/albumen/library/monographs/sunbeam/chap18.html
An interesting read, some looks like it is straightforward.

I would not fancy making Sulfide of Arsenic though. :)
 
I would not fancy making Sulfide of Arsenic though. :)


The silver nitrate hair dye sounds like it might work, although it suggests a slight possibility of heavy metal poisoning.:oops: :$

I'll cheerfully confess that I know nothing about intensifiers apart from the fact that they are something that people used to use. But some of my experiments with caffenol have resulted in slightly thin negatives, so now I'm tempted to give some sort of intensifier a try.
 
The most popular one - at least the one Johnson's of Hendon sold as a "pactum" (paper packet, small quanities) was uranium intensifier. I have adds in magazines and books from my schooldays advertising it...

I doubt you can easily get the ingredients now, but as a serious suggestion a very large number of reducers and intensifiers have published formulae if you look in older formularies and encyclopedias, where you can find out the exact properties, and how to make and use them.

David - selenium toner acts as an intensifier, and that (I think) isn't difficult to buy.
 
David - selenium toner acts as an intensifier, and that (I think) isn't difficult to buy.

Thank you. To be serious for once (unusual for me) that's a very helpful suggestion and one that I can actually try. Some of my early efforts with caffenol are very thin and ideal for experimenting with an intensifier.
 
I don't know whether this is possible for you, but I once found a 5x4 sheet that for months I thought was unexposed but did give a recognisable but poor image when scanned. You might find it a good idea to scan the negatives before doing anything drastic.
 
As Paul said, redevelopment isn't possible. The emulsion which is light sensitive (and coated on the film base) consists of silver halide (chloride or bromide) suspended in gelatin. The developer converts exposed grains to metallic silver, which appears black; the fixer dissolves away the remaining silver halide.
I knew that just couldn't articulate it as succinctly. :facepalm:
 
Personally, I think your reply - once it's done, it's done - was more succinct. Mine was more techno babble, as it's been described.
 
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