Film developing equipment and chemicals

P

psychology

Suspended / Banned
Messages
216
Name
Russell
Edit My Images
Yes
Sorry if this has been asked lots of times before but I seem to be going around in circles.

I am going to start developing my own B&W film, probably ilford hp5, and have got the following

patterson developing tank
film changing bag
bottle opener and scissors
clips for hanging the film
thermometer

epson v500

So, I need help on choosing the chemicals and where to buy them from.

I know I need a developer, fixer and stop. Do I need a wetting agent as I live on Merseyside and the water is fairly soft?

Also if I buy powdered chemicals I believe they need to be mixed in one go and stored in bottles, will any plastic bottle be okay?

Many Thanks

Russell
 
I don't bother with the opener and scissors. If you rewind the film with some of the leader haging out (or use an Ilford film retriever) you can cut the end square then start it off into the reel in the light, then transfer it to the bag. When you get it all wound on, the film tears easily along the side of the cassette.

Have a look on Ilford's website as they have a good guide to film processing PDF file.

Plastic bottles are perfect. I use old fizzy drink bottles.


Steve.
 
Last edited:
ilford ID 11 developer
 
Check here for times etc.
(Click on Massive dev chart)

Personally I would start with FP4 & ID11. But HP5 would be OK.

You can get concertina type plastic bottles to squeeze the air out, but any bottle would do. Here

Some people like a squeezy type thingy to get the water off the negs like this

I find it useful to put everything in a tray in the bag, so bits don't roll into corners. Make sure the reels are really dry, (put them on a radiator).

Otherwise, just give it a go - don't use anything important for your first couple of goes.
 
donutagain said:
ilford ID 11 developer
Click to expand...

or Kodak D76, which is essentially the same but quite a bit cheaper per unit volume and easier to mix. Either way ID11/D76 is my favourite and almost a de facto standard.
 
Last edited:
Stuart M said:
A red light
Click to expand...

? Only if he's planning on printing his own images from negative although he's listed an Epson scanner so I assume not.

Cheers
Steve
 
Thanks everyone for your help.

I'm going to go with

Kodak D76 1L
Ilford Rapid Fixer 500ml
Ilford Ilfostop 500ml

Cheers
 
Be wary - the "standard" (red) safelight is fine for printing paper, NOT for film - you need a changing bag to load the film into the tank.........
 
One point that may be worth mentioning, use a print version of any guide rather than an app or other on screen version - a screen won't chuck out much light but it could be enough!

Scissors aren't a necessity but do make life easier (IMO). Get a pair of kiddies ones with rounded tips - you won't be able to see what you're doing in the changing bag and a little blood goes a long way!

IMO, it's worth seeking out an old edition of Michael Langford's Basic Photography. Rather textbooky (well, it is a textbook!) but very useful - it's even got recipes for mixing your own soups.
 
Not, why would a print version of any guide be better? If you're changing in a proper changing bag, I wouldn't have thought external light really matters providing you're not pressing a torch to the bag, for example.

Or... have I completely misinterpreted what you said?
 
When I've finished re-writing it, I will put a link up to the guide i use for teaching people film developing in my uni photography society. I might be able to get a basic version thrown together this weekend if it's any use
 
VirtualAdept said:
Not, why would a print version of any guide be better? If you're changing in a proper changing bag, I wouldn't have thought external light really matters providing you're not pressing a torch to the bag, for example.

Or... have I completely misinterpreted what you said?
Click to expand...

A print version can be read under the red light when printing (not applicable to film loading in the changing bag, of course!) but a screen would throw out enough light to mess up prints if you're unlucky...
 
Thanks, thats cleared it up.

I agree, printed manuals are much better when working with prints.
 
Nod said:
One point that may be worth mentioning, use a print version of any guide rather than an app or other on screen version - a screen won't chuck out much light but it could be enough!

Scissors aren't a necessity but do make life easier (IMO). Get a pair of kiddies ones with rounded tips - you won't be able to see what you're doing in the changing bag and a little blood goes a long way!

IMO, it's worth seeking out an old edition of Michael Langford's Basic Photography. Rather textbooky (well, it is a textbook!) but very useful - it's even got recipes for mixing your own soups.
Click to expand...

I've have got myself Michael Langfords The Darkroom Handbook, and Michael Langford's 35mm Handbook: The Problem-Solving Book for Every Photographic Situation!

I will have to read them properly!:geek:
 
psychology said:
I've have got myself Michael Langfords The Darkroom Handbook, and Michael Langford's 35mm Handbook: The Problem-Solving Book for Every Photographic Situation!

I will have to read them properly!:geek:
Click to expand...

An excellent book
 
My Basic Photography (5th edition) was £1 from a charity shop!
 
john-oh said:
Check here for times etc.
(Click on Massive dev chart)
Click to expand...

That app defaults to agitating for the whole of the first minute, the first ten seconds of the second and the first ten seconds for each minute thereafter. I read in Ilfords blurb (or miss-read.... ) that agitation was for the first ten seconds of each minute?

I was on HP5 with DDX if that makes any difference.

Anyone agitate that much?

Mark
 
I've not actually used the App in anger.

My agitation was/is always a bit random,

My basic method was
fill the tank,
whack the tank base on the worktop (to get rid of any air bubbles),
agitate (rotate) with the swirly thingy
then
invert twice every minute or so.

I'm sure everyone has their own method, what you should aim for is consistency, which rather lets me out :).
 
Threeracers said:
That app defaults to agitating for the whole of the first minute, the first ten seconds of the second and the first ten seconds for each minute thereafter. I read in Ilfords blurb (or miss-read.... ) that agitation was for the first ten seconds of each minute?

I was on HP5 with DDX if that makes any difference.

Anyone agitate that much?

Mark
Click to expand...

You can edit the app to specify a custom agitation regime if you so choose, but the default one is fine tbh.

I personally agitate for about 30 seconds initially then 15 seconds every minute, which in the end probably comes to exactly the same time.
 
Just re read Ilfords blurb and they recomend "invert the tank four times in the first ten seconds. Repeat these four inversions during the first ten seconds of each subsequent minute" and thats sort of what I have been doing so far. I also tap.

On the subject of tapping Ilford also mention that mains water is very aerated and it should stand before use. I mix a big plastic storage box with water and get it to the right temp before carefully taking water from it to mix the chemicals up and then letting each pot sit in the water until needed. Next step I suppose is a thermostatically controlled water bath.... more expense!

Mark
 
So guys, where do you buy your chemicals from? I'm near Liverpool but can't find anywhere local so looks like I'll have to buy it online.
 
Just thought i would practice loading an old test film onto the developing reel whilst in the bag and finally got it sorted after numerous attempts!

However, the bag which I got of a well known auction site, didn't appear to be of great quality.

I'm sure you are not supposed to be able to see light through it are you!

Oh well, if you buy cheap.......
 
I must have got lucky with mine, its cheap but its served me fine so far over dozens of rolls.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top