FE2 and bulb setting

Mr Bump

Mr Bump

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Ok the greek oddessy is getting closer anf thoughts are going to the fine stuff, i want to take a travel tripod and get some slow sunset shots etc.
Now I am allready thinking of packing my sekonic 308 for measuring these and a cable release for the FE2 to do the bulb thing, timing will be provided by the wifes baby G.

is it a case of hold it down for x seconds then release.


Also The FE2 will do auto on AP but will it work out for long exposures?
 
Mr Bump said:
is it a case of hold it down for x seconds then release.
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Yes.

Mr Bump said:
Also The FE2 will do auto on AP but will it work out for long exposures?
Click to expand...

Yes. Cuddly Uncle Ken claims to have shot his FE at ISO50 with the lens cap on and it kept the shutter open for 63 minutes; he says in his FE2 page that it does the same thing. Take some spare batteries if you're doing long exposures, though.
 
Thanks Dean thats very interesting :-)
 
It'll do auto on AP, but it won't take into account the individual reciprocity of the film you are using. Bear that in mind!
 
freecom2 said:
It'll do auto on AP, but it won't take into account the individual reciprocity of the film you are using. Bear that in mind!
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I've actually got an Olympus microscope camera with a complete "control deck" and everything; for long exposures though it would be great as it actually has reciprocity characteristics for many films (from about 10 or so years ago) programmed into it, and it will also adjust the length of the exposure based on how the light changes = great for long exposures. Slight downside is that the whole thing is not exactly very portable (being designed to sit on top of a microscope) as it would need something to stand/mount it on, it needs 230V AC and could only really act a normal camera if a pinhole mask was made as obviously the microscope normally provides the lens.

The whole thing is a real work of art, I actually also have another slightly less advanced one which is heavily patterned on the OM system. The one I'm talking about above is similar to the picture below, but mine lacks the large LCD screen and has an older small character only LCD:

pm30camera.jpg

(From Olympus Micro http://www.olympusmicro.com/primer/photomicrography/images/filmcameras/pm30camera.jpg)

I keep meaning to make a pinhole mask for it and somehow take it out to do some long exposures (it calculates up to over an hour based on my limited tests!), but obviously it would be somewhat difficult as it runs on the mains! One of my lecturers gave me both of them as we got talking about photography, and he asked if I'd be interested. They were chucking out all their older film based microscope cameras at the university where he previously worked, and as he put it he couldn't bear to see such good kit being thrown out so he got them out the skip and had them in his garage for ages!
 
s162216 said:
I've actually got an Olympus microscope camera with a complete "control deck" and everything; for long exposures though it would be great as it actually has reciprocity characteristics for many films (from about 10 or so years ago) programmed into it, and it will also adjust the length of the exposure based on how the light changes = great for long exposures. Slight downside is that the whole thing is not exactly very portable (being designed to sit on top of a microscope) as it would need something to stand/mount it on, it needs 230V AC and could only really act a normal camera if a pinhole mask was made as obviously the microscope normally provides the lens.

The whole thing is a real work of art, I actually also have another slightly less advanced one which is heavily patterned on the OM system. The one I'm talking about above is similar to the picture below, but mine lacks the large LCD screen and has an older small character only LCD:

pm30camera.jpg

(From Olympus Micro http://www.olympusmicro.com/primer/photomicrography/images/filmcameras/pm30camera.jpg)

I keep meaning to make a pinhole mask for it and somehow take it out to do some long exposures (it calculates up to over an hour based on my limited tests!), but obviously it would be somewhat difficult as it runs on the mains! One of my lecturers gave me both of them as we got talking about photography, and he asked if I'd be interested. They were chucking out all their older film based microscope cameras at the university where he previously worked, and as he put it he couldn't bear to see such good kit being thrown out so he got them out the skip and had them in his garage for ages!
Click to expand...

Blimey....err....WOW. What a thing..
 
s162216 said:
I keep meaning to make a pinhole mask for it and somehow take it out to do some long exposures (it calculates up to over an hour based on my limited tests!), but obviously it would be somewhat difficult as it runs on the mains! One of my lecturers gave me both of them as we got talking about photography, and he asked if I'd be interested. They were chucking out all their older film based microscope cameras at the university where he previously worked, and as he put it he couldn't bear to see such good kit being thrown out so he got them out the skip and had them in his garage for ages!
Click to expand...

Toolstation

Maplin

Power requirements shouldn't be to exotic that it is that hard to do.
 
Depending on the film you can add in a bit of exposure comp for the reciprocity (maybe +1 or +2 stops), and the FE2 will do the rest. Maybe bracket a bit on a few exposures too. But I wouldn't bother with the Sekonic for this.
 
What is repricoty?
 
Link

Basically at longer exposures you need to take reciprocal failure into account and extend the exposure time.

However if you are shooting sunsets its unlikely to be an issue even with afterglow at F32 on 10X8 the longest I've needed was 1 second, also depends on the film you use Provia is good for several hundred seconds before you need to make adjustments.
 
Mr Bump said:
What is repricoty?
Click to expand...

No idea.

However, RECIPROCITY is the way shutter speed and aperture are related. Increase one, decrease the other by the same factor to get the same exposure. i.e. adjust one by the reciprocal of the change you applied to the other to keep the outcome the same.

At long exposures, it's the failure of this reciprocity which you have to take into account.

As usual, there is always someone on the internet who has explained it better than I can... so here it is: http://filmphotographyproject.com/content/howto/2011/10/what-reciprocity-failure

EDIT: I see I have posted the same link!


Steve.
 
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Great minds? :)
 
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