Favorite setting Man,Av,

[nowler]

i mostly use Av, as it suits what i shoot. however, M and Tv get used when they are most suitable for the required needs.

i do get the impression that a lot of people believe that using manual is the holy grail of photography. not so for me..........

 

[68lbs]

Ok, I've just read this and still dont get why someone would use AV or TV for any reason other than laziness. And I certainly don't get why using manual and the camera's meter is the same as shooting Auto!

I'm not eloquent or experienced enough to put forward an argument, but here is my story...

When I started this photography thing 6 months ago I had a quick read of the manual, and starting shooting AV (aperture priority). It seemed to offer the right sort of creative control to me. But, everything came out crap! Bar the odd shot. From posting on here, I found out that it is the camera's meter. It is easily fooled. So I did a little more reading and came up with 2 options. Either dial in some -ve/+ve exposure comp or learn how to shoot manual. I chose the latter, and couldn't believe how easy it was. Set camera on spot (or the 400d's equivalent, which is a big spot ). If the bit you're metering is dark, make sure the meter reads under, if the bit you're metering is bright, make sure it reads over. Shoot. Look at the histogram and if you think you can push the histogram a little more to the right, do so. Or if you've completely blown it, stick the shutterspeed up a few notches.

Surely this is the same as AV. Except rather than under/over reading on the meter, you'd dial in the exposure comp based on what whether the bit you're metering is dark/bright.

If shutterspeed is more important than DoF, then I set shutterspeed first, and apply the same process adjusting the aperture to obtain correct exposure.

So, why would AV or TV be beneficial? I must be missing something. :shrug:

 

[ryank]

EDIT: This is directed towards the post above

Because some tog's subjects may have disappeared forever by the time they have battled with camera settings.

But of course I have nothing against M, I just don't use it because my camera does get it right, and if it doesn't (I can tell from the LCD) I will adjust and re-shoot!

And anyway (to throw up a bit of controversy), it was to my understanding that if you shot RAW the ever-so-slight percentage of the camera's error can be resolved in PP anyway??

 

[ryank]

Ok, I've just read this and still dont get why someone would use AV or TV for any reason other than laziness.

Some would say that it's lazy to use digital as opposed to film, but we know this isn't true etc.

 

[DiddyDave]

If you think it's about being lazy then yes you've missed the point

So I'll repeat - "for most shooting most of the time a good brain can make an auto setting work better/faster/easier"

M obviously works - but M with an external meter works better than just M mode as a reflected light reading isn't going to give you a correct reading as often as an incident light reading; doing it this way you're using the camera in 'auto meter' mode but dialling in the numbers yourself, which is only a fart away and a bit slower than using an auto setting in the first place - IF you also know where & when to correct

If it works for you, then just use it - there are no 'Rules' here to break

DD

 

[dod]

If it works for you, then just use it - there are no 'Rules' here to break

DD

Exactly. The trick is knowing when to use each to give the best possible results. It won't always be one of the semi-auto settings and it won't always be manual. Hell, there are times it could be P.

 

[68lbs]

How do you know? Presumably experience?

So, is it recommended that newbies like me should shoot in ALL modes including the P modes to become familiar with them and know which ones work when, and what their failings are?

 

[grumpybadger]

Yup. P still gives you control as you can move the shutter speed/aperture but keep the ratio correct.

 

[dod]

How do you know? Presumably experience?

So, is it recommended that newbies like me should shoot in ALL modes including the P modes to become familiar with them and know which ones work when, and what their failings are?

I suppose it is mainly.

Like Dave says, there are no hard and fast rules here.

I was shooting an indoor equestrian event recently. One end of the arena was really dark, the other was brighter. If I'd gone for manual which do I set up the camera for? Far better to take the guesswork out of the equation and let the camera decide. As it happens I went for aperture priority instead of shutter as I wanted the fastest shutter speed I could get. Therefore I just picked the maximum aperture I had and let the camera pick the shutter.

On the other hand at a showjumping event recently the backgrounds were a pain, some messy, some dark, but most were big white tents. Most of the time I chose to take a reading from the grass, put the settings in manually and knew I'd get a decent exposure for the horse and rider. If I'd left the camera in Shutter/aperture priority mode it would have messed up because of the big white background. Using spot metering wouldn't necessarily have worked either as the horses were different colours, some black, some white, some a nice 18% grey Others would have handled that differently. Sometimes if there's only one awkward bit I'll use shutter/aperture priority and lock the exposure just before the rider gets to the problem bit. It varies.

The beauty of the auto modes, including P, is that they handle average lighting situations really well. It's just really dark and really light scenes where they struggle. Bear in mind that all you're doing in manual, if you use the settings the camera gives you, is adding another step to the process.

Personally I would recommend you shoot in whatever mode you're happiest with. It sounds like you already recognise the situations where you need to override the meter so stick with what you're most comfortable

 

[mercmanuk]

I suppose it is mainly.

Like Dave says, there are no hard and fast rules here.

I was shooting an indoor equestrian event recently. One end of the arena was really dark, the other was brighter. If I'd gone for manual which do I set up the camera for? Far better to take the guesswork out of the equation and let the camera decide. As it happens I went for aperture priority instead of shutter as I wanted the fastest shutter speed I could get. Therefore I just picked the maximum aperture I had and let the camera pick the shutter.

On the other hand at a showjumping event recently the backgrounds were a pain, some messy, some dark, but most were big white tents. Most of the time I chose to take a reading from the grass, put the settings in manually and knew I'd get a decent exposure for the horse and rider. If I'd left the camera in Shutter/aperture priority mode it would have messed up because of the big white background. Using spot metering wouldn't necessarily have worked either as the horses were different colours, some black, some white, some a nice 18% grey Others would have handled that differently. Sometimes if there's only one awkward bit I'll use shutter/aperture priority and lock the exposure just before the rider gets to the problem bit. It varies.

The beauty of the auto modes, including P, is that they handle average lighting situations really well. It's just really dark and really light scenes where they struggle. Bear in mind that all you're doing in manual, if you use the settings the camera gives you, is adding another step to the process.

Personally I would recommend you shoot in whatever mode you're happiest with. It sounds like you already recognise the situations where you need to override the meter so stick with what you're most comfortable

Hi read these with interest i come from a new user (digital) and we are going to cover the modes on our course, but it is very interesting which setting's people prefer, the settings are there so a combination of them should cover most of the possibilities when taking a photograph.

light metering are we looking for a good average or do we need to be spot on with portrait then yes we can go up to the subject, with other forms of photography why ? choose the grass for instance was it the first available piece of space to meter or was it soaking up the light/reflecting light.

Where is the best place to take a reading from with fast moving sport shots, and is metering important, taking a reading with the camera is that just as good or would it be advisable to buy a meter.......?

Regards Mark.

 

[POAH]

AV with EC or manual when there is not enough EC or I'm using flash. totally don't see the point in using manual all the time

 

[mmcp42]

I use Av most of the time
if that doesn't work, the next port of call is usually Manual (with an eye on the exposure meter
I use exposure lock a lot (especially for into sun shots)

how do I decide which?
you can't beat a good chimp and check on the histogram!

that'll be 2p please!

 

[PsiFox]

M A or S depending on what I want to achieve

 

[nilagin]

I mainly use M for my motorsport shots although I've just started using TV, which does make adjsutments easier as the aperture takes care of itself and I can leave the ISO on auto. Very handy in changing light conditions.
Anything else tends to be just taking a quick snap so tend to use auto settings.

 

[Mother Goose]

Manual all the time. I really don't understand why anyone would use AV or TV (or nikon equivalent) because surely if you can dial in +ve/-ve exposure somp, then you can shoot in manual?

Or am I missing something obvious?

Well, depending on what you photograph, Av. could be loads faster than M.

I spend almost all my time on Av, except when I'm doing difficult exposure shots, like nighttime shots. Even if it's a difficult scene to expose, you can accomplish almost as much as M by simply metering the right portion of the scene and locking the exposure. If you don't like that, you can just use exposure compensation.

I'm a bit surprised so many people here use M all the time. I can understand its use for still photography, but for anything that's moving, my brain can't handle having to juggle too many settings. If I'm photographing say, a politician on a stage, I'd have to compose, check the meter, adjust the aperture/shutter/ISO, check the meter, and snap. It's much easier to just meter the right portion, lock exposure, and snap.

Then again, I suppose if you've been a photographer for a decade or more, knowing the correct settings to use will come naturally.

 

[POAH]

I suppose you don't use a remote control for anything?

you light your cooker with a match, you don't have central heating, you use a fire to heat your water, you don't use a tea bag, you don't use a toaster or a kettle either :shrug:

using manual and then using the camera's metering system is you are only doing the same thing as AV or TV does.

TBH I think the only thing you are missing is a few important brain cells lol :bonk:

Ok, I've just read this and still dont get why someone would use AV or TV for any reason other than laziness. And I certainly don't get why using manual and the camera's meter is the same as shooting Auto!

So, why would AV or TV be beneficial? I must be missing something. :shrug:

 

[68lbs]

TBH I think the only thing you are missing is a few important brain cells

I'm not sure there's any need for insults, though I appreciate it's common amongst people of a certain class and intelligence.

As it happens, we do have a solid fuel stove, we don't have an electric kettle, until 21 months ago we did toast under the grill, and if I drink tea rather than coffee I do prefer a teapot and ickle cups sat on saucers.

But back to the point...

I'm no pro, and wouldn't even class myself as a competent amateur. I am a beginner, so please correct me and help me if I am wrong. From what I am reading though I believe these are facts...

1. The camera's metering often gets it wrong
2. In AV you can't 'freely choose' your shutterspeed.
3. In TV you can't 'freely choose' your aperture.

So... you can't ALWAYS get what you want in AV, or TV. And you certainly can't in P or Auto. However, you are in 100% control in M and the image that you take is down to you, and you only.

Therefore, for me as a beginnner, it makes sense for me to ALWAYS shoot M (manual). If I take a shot and it's not as I want, I know it's me at fault. With each and every shot, I am fully aware exactly what aperture, shutterspeed, ISO, is being used - because I have set them. Yes, it's a lot to think about. Goddammit, don't I just know it. The number of times I forget and leave the ISO on 800! :bang: But if I want slightly more DoF, more motion blur, I can choose without changing modes.

using manual and then using the camera's metering system is you are only doing the same thing as AV or TV does.

Why ?

In manual I have the ability to effectively chooose AV or TV, so it's more versatile. I really don't get what the problem is here.

And just for the record, rightly or wrongly, I use guesswork and the histogram for metering, but I brought this up some months ago and it's an entirely different discussion.

 

[mmcp42]

1. The camera's metering often gets it wrong
2. In AV you can't 'freely choose' your shutterspeed.
3. In TV you can't 'freely choose' your aperture.

hmmm, let's see
1.
yup it is possible to fool the camera,
not sure "often" is correct, but it depends on the sort of shots you take

2.
yup, AV you choose the Aperture, camera chooses the shutter speed

3.
yup, TV you choose the Time (or shutter speed), camera chooses the aperture

you may well be 100% in control in Manual mode, but that does not make it necessarily any easier to get it "right"

if you're not sure, or starting out - try Program mode
you can still vary the aperture/shutter speed but only within the limits of the programmer

once you're comfortable move to Tv or Av
which to choose?

if you want control over the depth of field go for Av mode
big numbers = bigger DoF (and slower shutter speed)

if you want control over shutter speed (action shots) go for Tv mode
big numbers = faster, but less DoF

once you understand what the camera is doing - maybe move to Manual
keeping an eye on the (camera's) exposure meter will tell you if you're wildly out - or if you're "out" in the way you meant to be

hth
ymmv

oops just read the quote again - dammit you were right I thought it said "you can choose" when it says "you can't choose"
editted the reply!!!

 

[dod]

But back to the point...

I'm no pro, and wouldn't even class myself as a competent amateur. I am a beginner, so please correct me and help me if I am wrong. From what I am reading though I believe these are facts...
1. The camera's metering often gets it wrong
2. In AV you can't 'freely choose' your shutterspeed.
3. In TV you can't 'freely choose' your aperture.

1. I'd say the camera's meter actually get's it right the vast majority of the time but it can be fooled depending on the conditions.
2. Correct
3. Correct

And just for the record, rightly or wrongly, I use guesswork and the histogram for metering, but I brought this up some months ago and it's an entirely different discussion.

Why would you use guesswork when you've got a perfectly good tool for that built into the camera? That's a bit like disconnecting your speedometer, guessing your speed and relying on the Gatso to tell you when you get it wrong, bit of a high risk strategy. Maybe not a great analogy but the meter is really very good and more accurate than guess work most of the time.

So... you can't ALWAYS get what you want in AV, or TV. And you certainly can't in P or Auto. However, you are in 100% control in M and the image that you take is down to you, and you only.

You can. In either of the semi auto modes you're deciding which is more important, the shutter speed or the aperture. You make the choice and the only thing the camera does is select an appropriate setting for the other parameter. If you recognise there may be factors which make it difficult for metering just dial in compensation to suit. In fact I'd say you can hardly ever get the shutter/aperture combination you want in manual, if you wish it to be exposed correctly.

Therefore, for me as a beginnner, it makes sense for me to ALWAYS shoot M (manual). If I take a shot and it's not as I want, I know it's me at fault. With each and every shot, I am fully aware exactly what aperture, shutterspeed, ISO, is being used - because I have set them. Yes, it's a lot to think about. Goddammit, don't I just know it. The number of times I forget and leave the ISO on 800! :bang: But if I want slightly more DoF, more motion blur, I can choose without changing modes.

There's nothing wrong with choosing manual. I'd be just as tempted to choose P however as it automatically gives you a shutter/aperture combination which will give you the right exposure but you can very quickly adjust it to suit the effect you're looking for. The P mode is really pretty good.

In manual I have the ability to effectively chooose AV or TV, so it's more versatile. I really don't get what the problem is here.

This is where I disagree. I do see the point you're making but you've still only got the versatility to choose a combination of shutter and aperture to give a "correct" exposure. (I've put correct in parenthesis as that could be a debate in itself). Lets say you want to use an aperture of F2.8. In an absolute world there will be only one correct shutter speed to get that correct exposure. Therefore, for any average scene it really doesn't matter which mode you select, manual, Av, Tv or even P will give you the same settings and the same result.

The thing to remember is that if you've only got one chance to get the shot and if you've set it wrong it's gone forever. That's especially true if you're using Manual, guessing the exposure and chimping to see how it came out. The guy using AV or Tv however will be packed up, have it processed and be selling it to the papers for £000's.

 

[68lbs]

Why would you use guesswork when you've got a perfectly good tool for that built into the camera?

As said, this one's another discussion. In fact I posted about it somewhere before. Maybe i've exagerated a bit. It's(un)educated guesswork based on what the scene looks like, what the meter says, and what the histogram looks like.

The thing to remember is that if you've only got one chance to get the shot and you've set it wrong it's gone forever. That's especially true if you're using Manual, guessing the exposure and chimping to see how it came out. The guy using AV or Tv however will be packed up, have it processed and be selling it to the papers for £000's.

At this point I do completely agree. My speed at preparing to take a shot is snail-like. My point in all of this is that I dont shoot in manual for 'snob' value, I don't do it for speed, I do it because I feel the 'numbers' are more likely to stick in my head because I am actively choosing them myself.

Perhaps, I should not have initially used the word lazy, but 'speed' instead. So I will requote myself...

Ok, I've just read this and still dont get why someone would use AV or TV for any reason other than speed. And I certainly don't get why using manual and the camera's meter is the same as shooting Auto unless you just line the needle up in the middle every time!

 

[CaptainPenguin]

Mostly AV if I am shooting static subjects or TV for action but whjen just wandering around I keep it on programme in case that unmissable grab shot appears

 

[CaptainPenguin]

Ok, I've just read this and still dont get why someone would use AV or TV for any reason other than laziness. And I certainly don't get why using manual and the camera's meter is the same as shooting Auto!

I'm not eloquent or experienced enough to put forward an argument, but here is my story...

When I started this photography thing 6 months ago I had a quick read of the manual, and starting shooting AV (aperture priority). It seemed to offer the right sort of creative control to me. But, everything came out crap! Bar the odd shot. From posting on here, I found out that it is the camera's meter. It is easily fooled. So I did a little more reading and came up with 2 options. Either dial in some -ve/+ve exposure comp or learn how to shoot manual. I chose the latter, and couldn't believe how easy it was. Set camera on spot (or the 400d's equivalent, which is a big spot ). If the bit you're metering is dark, make sure the meter reads under, if the bit you're metering is bright, make sure it reads over. Shoot. Look at the histogram and if you think you can push the histogram a little more to the right, do so. Or if you've completely blown it, stick the shutterspeed up a few notches.

Surely this is the same as AV. Except rather than under/over reading on the meter, you'd dial in the exposure comp based on what whether the bit you're metering is dark/bright.

If shutterspeed is more important than DoF, then I set shutterspeed first, and apply the same process adjusting the aperture to obtain correct exposure.

So, why would AV or TV be beneficial? I must be missing something. :shrug:

As someone who started "This Photography Thing" almost 36 years ago and had to use manual with a hand held meter I would like to explain that something like that is fine for a subject that gives you time to take your shot (Landscapes,Buildings,Portraits) but was a sod for any sort of action shot.
In addition if you get the results that you want from AV,TV,P or even green square mode so what.Its a snob thing in the same way that when the first cameras with auto modes came in the manual snobs were saying just the same thing in those days.

 

[mercmanuk]

Hi and thanks for the many informative posts,

so it looks like the AV, TV, are great settings for some of the photography shooting i will be doing.

AV, Alservo,high f stop to allow all in focus Aircraft, motor sport, where i need the camera to sort out the lighting,
TV, for when i need fast action shots.

or a combination of AV,TV,M. i also found it most helpful regarding the al servo and center point focusing,

i like the manual setting but if i use the camera settings on TV,AV to help me choose a M setting the from there i can experiment with different setting, to achieve blur and help with panning modes of Evan fast freeze the action, Football will be on my list (AV) because of the different lighting situations in a stadium, (Eastlands)

regards mark.

 

[Nicos Rex]

For me it depends entirely on what I am shooting and which camera I am using.

With my 6x6cm gear I don't have a choice other than to shoot in manual and where possible I use an incident light reading.

When I can be bothered to shoot 5"x4" I spot meter directly off the ground glass and use the zone sytem.

With the other cameras I use as much automation as I can to fit the circumstances - for the F3 this is AV, for the F4 AV or TV depending on what I am shooting (the programme modes are a tad inflexible). The D40 stays on P mode unless there is a compelling reason to change - I can quickly shift it to get the aperture or shutter speed I want and if necessary add exposure compensation as required.

 

[Johnny1982]

Av most of the time. TV for motion, M for experimenting and or tripod work. night work on M.
P for some occasions I use flash.

 

[andy4tune]

Intertesting topic and one I was thinking about this weekend. Just got my first DSLR although I've used compacts extensively with various exposure modes available. Previously I used film SLRs both fully manual (with and without inbuilt exposure meters) and on aperture priority. Now I have many modes to choose from but for serious stuff it will always be Manual, Aperture or Shutter priority modes.

The exposure meter in my camera viewfinder is tiny and not so easy to see (and I discovered it also had -ve values on the right and +ve values on the left which seemed odd to me - I found the way to correct that), but the thing that struck me most was how difficult it was to change the shutter speed and aperture using the control dials quickly for manual metering. Like an earlier poster - bring back the aperture ring round the lens! So manual is unlikely to be used much unless I have time to spend setting it up.

So it's going to be Av for me and bracket exposures + and - one stop.

Some good responses in this thread.