INCIDENT METERING
Correct use of a meter when taking an incident meter is essential. The reading should be taken from the subject directly towards the camera lens. When the subject is distant it should be on a line from the centre of the subject towards the lens. Contrary to some mistaken online instructions, it should not be taken by pointing the meter at the light source.
With distant subjects, provided the light falling on the meter is the same as on the subject an exact reading will be obtained, day and sunlight is not affected by distance.
Unlike flash which changes with ithe inverse square law. Flash incident readings should be taken as close from the subject as possible.
Incident readings are always used by the film industry as each shot must exactly match previous ones or the difference between exposure becomes obvious and distracting.
The various exposure modes used in film and digital cameras are devised to match, as closely as possible, to those obtained by an incident meter, as an incident meters can not be built into through the lens systems, for obvious reasons.
However digital sensors do provide the possibility of calculating exposures, as every pixel can, at least theoretically, be used in the measurement and calculation.
However this does not produce equally exposed consecutive frames.
FILMS CONTRAST AND DEVELOPMENT.
I have no idea which are the best films available today, it seems that all of them are now reformulated so as to be coated in small batches, on what was previously test and experimental coating machines. The previous production machines are no longer economically viable with the smaller runs needed today.
That being said some photographers seem to be getting good results from some of the better ones from the likes of what was Ilford..
However from what I have seen results are far from consistent. I would suggest sticking to one, not chopping and changing.
A graph of the resulting density on film, from a step wedge of equal tonality steps, is very different from that on a digital sensor.
A sensor produces an almost perfect straight line graph, with density matching light intensity.
Whereas film produces what is known as an S shaped graph. With a central straight line portion with the foot (shadow portion ) Flattening off to zero.
And the shoulder( highlights) also flattening off to a maximum density.
The slope of the straight line portion represents the contrast of the resulting negative.
This slope and contrast (gamma) can be adjusted by changing the duration and temperature of the development, the contrast increases with time and temperature.
Increasing these factors also increases general density and grain.
Changing exposure moves the included tonal range up and down the straight line portion of the graph, so that either more of the shoulder or more of the toe is included.
Moving the exposure away from the toe or shoulder, moves either the shadows or the highlights further on to the straight line portion. This results in better separation of those tones. Either the shadows or highlights become more detailed. Not both.
Beautifully graduated prints, from film, rely on both suitable exposure and appropriate development. And of course excellent printing technique. (Which has similar considerations) Some degree of dodging and burning is almost always necessary.
It takes a great deal of practice to become a good bromide printer. It took me from the age of 10 to 15 and hundreds of prints before i considered my self a "good" printer.
By the time I went to photographic college, after military service. I was at professional standard.
I never found exposure, development or printing difficult, however some people are not prepared to put in the time to learn or put in the necessary practice to achieve high quality results.