Exposure compensation dial versus do it in PP?

DayDreamer

DayDreamer

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Am I being thick & don't all shout yes?

Surely rather than fiddle with exposure compensation dial, on the camera, can't you just do the exposure adjustment in PP in my case LR4? :help:
 
In my book you need to get the prefered exposure on site. PP only increases noise in dark areas...

I've never really understood EC anyway... to use it, you must know your meter, and once you do, why not skip EC and simply dial exposure in manual??


But of course, then I'm a slow shooter, so... :D
 
DayDreamer said:
Am I being thick & don't all shout yes?

Surely rather than fiddle with exposure compensation dial, on the camera, can't you just do the exposure adjustment in PP in my case LR4? :help:
Click to expand...

Assuming that this is not a wind up, you should always try to get your exposure as good as you can in camera.

While small changes may not make that much difference, but big changes probably will.

Underexpose, and when you brighten the image in your software the image may become grainy. The more brightening you have to do, the grainier it can become.

If you overexpose, you may get some detail back, at least with a RAW file, but overexpose too much and that detail has gone.
 
Yes you can make the adjustment in Post. And this is acceptable if you are making minor adjustments. However you can run into problems with significant jumps, especially if you are shooting JPEG. RAW has much more headroom but it's not infinite.

Exposure compensation is no big deal. It's something I've grown up with. Personally I wouldn't get too excited about 1/3 to 1/2 stop change when shooting RAW. Anything more I'd definitely compensate and re shoot.
 
Jan K. said:
In my book you need to get the prefered exposure on site. PP only increases noise in dark areas...

I've never really understood EC anyway... to use it, you must know your meter, and once you do, why not skip EC and simply dial exposure in manual??


But of course, then I'm a slow shooter, so... :D
Click to expand...

Yes getting the right exposure, like the right everything else, before you press the shutter button is the best way forward but sometimes ......... :bonk:
 
redhed17 said:
Assuming that this is not a wind up, you should always try to get your exposure as good as you can in camera.

While small changes may not make that much difference, but big changes probably will.

Underexpose, and when you brighten the image in your software the image may become grainy. The more brightening you have to do, the grainier it can become.

If you overexpose, you may get some detail back, at least with a RAW file, but overexpose too much and that detail has gone.
Click to expand...


Not sure why you think I'm trying a wind up as I am not :shrug:

I have very restrictive limitations as I can't physically use a DSLR, even though I would like to, so I am stuck with abandoning photography, or doing what I do which is to get some enjoyment from using advanced compacts (Nikon P7700 & Canon G15 due for delivery today for my wife but no doubt I will use). One of my frustrations is blown highlights because of the cameras limitation & even shooting RAW it is sometimes impossible to sort it in PP.

So currently thinking it through whether to use the dial more, or try to sort in PP as the RAWs from my Nikon don't seem to be as flexible as those that came from my Fuji X10. I am hoping the Canon RAW's are better.
 
Chappers said:
Yes you can make the adjustment in Post. And this is acceptable if you are making minor adjustments. However you can run into problems with significant jumps, especially if you are shooting JPEG. RAW has much more headroom but it's not infinite.

Exposure compensation is no big deal. It's something I've grown up with. Personally I wouldn't get too excited about 1/3 to 1/2 stop change when shooting RAW. Anything more I'd definitely compensate and re shoot.
Click to expand...

I have been trying to get the exposure right by taking several shots exposed for sky, then middle then lower & have been hoping to get the shadows sorted, from the RAWs, but as in my above post I don't feel the RAWs from the Nikon are allowing this.
 
Jan K. said:
I've never really understood EC anyway... to use it, you must know your meter, and once you do, why not skip EC and simply dial exposure in manual??
Click to expand...

I shall enlighten you :)

If your in a situstaion wiht ever changing light then you cant use manual.. if the exposure meter is confused slightly and you need a litte extra or less then you need to usee compensation... manual isnt much good in quickly changing light


hows that? :)
 
DayDreamer said:
Not sure why you think I'm trying a wind up as I am not :shrug:
Click to expand...

Because seen the wrong way, the 'I don't need to get the correct settings in camera because I can fix it all in Photoshop' is the type of post a troll would post. I didn't think your's was, but I had put the 'if' in there just in case. ;) Nothing worse than getting sucked into a trolling thread. :shake:

DayDreamer said:
using advanced compacts (Nikon P7700 & Canon G15 due for delivery today for my wife but no doubt I will use). One of my frustrations is blown highlights because of the cameras limitation & even shooting RAW it is sometimes impossible to sort it in PP.

So currently thinking it through whether to use the dial more, or try to sort in PP as the RAWs from my Nikon don't seem to be as flexible as those that came from my Fuji X10. I am hoping the Canon RAW's are better.
Click to expand...

I've found the RAW files from my Canon S95 not as good as RAW files from my Nikon D300S. 10mp and 12mp respectively. The RAW files are still miles better than a Jpeg would be in terms of the amount of manipulating that can be done, (if needed;)) but I think the smaller sensor with resulting smaller photosites has an effect on the quality/dynamic range of the files. Because of that, I think getting the exposure correct is more crucial with a non DSLR camera.
 
Have you used View NX2 (free from Nikon) to recover blown highlights?
I used to find it very good, I use Capture NX2 now which AFAIK uses the same algorithms.
 
redhed17 said:
I've found the RAW files from my Canon S95 not as good as RAW files from my Nikon D300S. 10mp and 12mp respectively. The RAW files are still miles better than a Jpeg would be in terms of the amount of manipulating that can be done, (if needed;)) but I think the smaller sensor with resulting smaller photosites has an effect on the quality/dynamic range of the files. Because of that, I think getting the exposure correct is more crucial with a non DSLR camera.
Click to expand...

Sorry not been very active in last day or two as heat as knocked me out but thanks for your help. The new G15 came yesterday but so far battery charged but I am totally on depleted charge so it sits in it's box awaiting my attention :)

I will have a play about probably taking the same type of shot with both my cameras & seeing how well the Canon one's fare in PP :thumbs:
 
Suvv said:
Have you used View NX2 (free from Nikon) to recover blown highlights?
I used to find it very good, I use Capture NX2 now which AFAIK uses the same algorithms.
Click to expand...

Good suggestion I will relook at View NX2. I'm so used to turning to LR4 every time all my other software is getting rusty.
 
Doubt it will work with Canon raw files... but then again, I'm certain you'll get far less blown/underexposed shots, when leaving exposure to one of the G15 programs.

Cool little camera! :thumbs:
 
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