Editing for prints to apepar as they do on screen

boccers_2000

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Andrew
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Hi Guys.

i wasnt sure if this should go in this section or in the printing section.

Basically I have an HP Envy laptop (I know, I shouldnt really edit on a laptop but its all i have). I use PSE 9 for post production.

I have noticed that when having pictures printed (I use DSCL and only use the Pro option when ordering prints) that they come back darker than they did when they appeared on screen.

My first guess would that I should buy a colour calibration system (like Spyder) but the problem isnt really colour more luminesence.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom/tips on how best to deal with this problem and ensure that my prints come back as they appeared on screen? If I was to recalibrate my screen resolution or buy aq Spyder then how do I go about this (ie what settings are best) and which version of the Spyder would be the best purchase?

All help gratefully received.

Thanks
 
I have noticed that when having pictures printed (I use DSCL and only use the Pro option when ordering prints) that they come back darker than they did when they appeared on screen.
The difference between Pro and Standard is that the Standard prints are colour stretched to give deeper colours and (by the looks of it) contrast stretched to increase saturations. Unless you have a completely calibrated workflow (and that will include calibrating the results of the print process with a calibrator) I'd suggest to use their Standard processing. Next time you do some prints, add a couple of test images in that have the same image (with lots of colours/contrast) printed through the Standard and Pro process and see which you prefer.

Having said that, I do have a calibrated screen and my prints come out darker too. I also have PhotoshopCS5 where you can model the output of the paper. Doing this gives a darker and slightly bluer tinge to the photo.

Basically, it's a process of trial and error in how you process your images. If you want them to come out as like them on screen, you will probably want to overprocess the images to suit the paper and process you are printing on.

Either that or don't compare with the on-screen image. in isolation, the pics normally look pretty good in my (limited) experience.
 
DSCL print profiles are HERE
 
Thanks Guys. I presume that there is no need to get a colour calibrator then...
Why do you presume this?



So what does this actually do? Apologies for the question but not very au fait with these processes.
It maps the numbers in the file (0-255 for R, G and B) to the colours of the printer on that paper. As long as you supply DSCL with the images with either the profiles linked there or sRGB (see half way down: http://www.dscolourlabs.co.uk/faqs.cfm), they should print near enough identically.
 
Why do you presume this?



It maps the numbers in the file (0-255 for R, G and B) to the colours of the printer on that paper. As long as you supply DSCL with the images with either the profiles linked there or sRGB (see half way down: http://www.dscolourlabs.co.uk/faqs.cfm), they should print near enough identically.

That's great, thanks.

I made the presumption as no one had commented on my query re purchasing a Spyder.

Do you think it would be a worthwhile investment? If so which model would you go for?

As I said, the problem isnt so much colour but luminesence.
 
Have to say I prefer the (more expensive) Eye-one, but they have recently replaced that with a new model and I don't know how easy/difficult it is to use.
 
Have to say I prefer the (more expensive) Eye-one, but they have recently replaced that with a new model and I don't know how easy/difficult it is to use.

Cheers.

Anyone got any views on which Spyder I should invest in?

Basically I just want something simple I can use to correct the issue of darker pictures appearing when an image is printed (as opposed to what is shown on the screen).
 
Basically I just want something simple I can use to correct the issue of darker pictures appearing when an image is printed (as opposed to what is shown on the screen).
I don't have your prints or PC in front of me, so don't know how much darker the prints are than the screen but.... your screen will always be brighter than any prints you print as the technology of a screen is that there are lights behind the LCD screen brightening the image. For a photo, the brightness of the image is dependent upon reflections and cannot be turned up or down.

It may be that you are processing them too dark as your screen is turned up too bright, but what does a JPEG with no additional processing look like on your screen?

It may be that you are expecting too much. The colour range and brightness levels (dynamic range) available are different between a PC screen and printer paper.
 
I use the Syder3 Studio SR setuo

It calibrates both monitors and my printers aw well.
On import I use the Xrite passport colorchecker in Lightroom to adjust coulour balance.
 
I don't have your prints or PC in front of me, so don't know how much darker the prints are than the screen but.... your screen will always be brighter than any prints you print as the technology of a screen is that there are lights behind the LCD screen brightening the image. For a photo, the brightness of the image is dependent upon reflections and cannot be turned up or down.

It may be that you are processing them too dark as your screen is turned up too bright, but what does a JPEG with no additional processing look like on your screen?

It may be that you are expecting too much. The colour range and brightness levels (dynamic range) available are different between a PC screen and printer paper.

I only ever shoot in raw and then only convert to jpeg once I have made my adjustments so i cant answer the question as i never really see a jpeg without processing on my screen.

The prints are definately darker (I took a pic recently in black and white, it was naturally quite dark but I had detail in some parts of the darkness but when the print came you cant really make out those details because the orint is so dark).

Maybe I am expecting too much. Perhaps the answer is just to make things a little lighter and then experiment with prints.

How would you go about brightening that up in PSE 9? Would you simply make the whole image lighter or would you simply brighten up the areas in the shadows?
 
You will lose detail in the dark parts of the print as the dynamic range of prints is not all that great.

It's worth investing in a calibrator. Even the cheapest calibrator (Spyder3Express) will get your screen closer to a standard.

Easy to try a JPEG on screen though next time you're out :)

As to what to try to brighten the images, if it's only the dark portions, try using curves to boostr the contrast in the darker colours. Personally, I'd do an order through DSCL and try a variety of different processes on couple of images (say black and white, one with lots of colour) and process them in different ways based on your understanding of the problems in the prints you have now. Note what you did to them and then get them printed at around 9x6 size. Taking a couple of representative prints and doing a number of edits (do the same to both photos) will allow you to see how to tune your processing technique to the print process.
 
You will lose detail in the dark parts of the print as the dynamic range of prints is not all that great.

It's worth investing in a calibrator. Even the cheapest calibrator (Spyder3Express) will get your screen closer to a standard.

Easy to try a JPEG on screen though next time you're out :)

As to what to try to brighten the images, if it's only the dark portions, try using curves to boostr the contrast in the darker colours. Personally, I'd do an order through DSCL and try a variety of different processes on couple of images (say black and white, one with lots of colour) and process them in different ways based on your understanding of the problems in the prints you have now. Note what you did to them and then get them printed at around 9x6 size. Taking a couple of representative prints and doing a number of edits (do the same to both photos) will allow you to see how to tune your processing technique to the print process.

Thanks, I appreciate you having taken the time to answer my questions, it really is appreciated.

I'll definately take your advice!
 
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