Agree with Pete. What do you want to achieve by using manual? The most important use for manual is to Set & Lock the exposure.
If you use manual and simply aim the camera and centre up the exposure indicator in the viewfinder, all you are doing is what the camera does automatically in one of the other modes. But at the same time unless you keep a careful check on it, it obviously won't track the exposure when the scene changes and will get you into trouble.
If you really want to learn how to use the camera better, you'll be better off using one of the semi-auto modes - this forces you to make a creative decision. Aperture-priority Av, or shutter-priority Tv according to the effect you want, then let the camera help out with sorting the exact exposure. Chimp the LCD and learn about the histogram and blinkies, and don't be afraid to use the +/- compensation to get the exposure how you want it.
I think you will learn more this way, and not get caught out. The important thing is to go through your pictures and check the Exif settings data to see what is happening and see how that relates to the image. Set yourself some simple excercises, like this popular series recently started right here
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=240361 The current project is No4 on histograms
BTW, don't be temped to use spot metering until you are very sure of what you're doing, it will lead you seriously astray. I always use evaluative/matrix, then adjust to taste with the compensation (usually on Av). If I then want to lock the exposure, transfer the settings to manual.
Good link on histograms here
http://www.sekonic.com/images/files/HistogramsLightmetersWorkTogether.pdf Don't be frightened of them - they tell you a lot and are a very accurate indicator of what you have actually got, whereas the exposure meter is only guessing. Enable blinkies - highlight over exposure warning, in the menu. I think blinkies are the single most useful aid to optimum exposure
