Do you need to light a HiLite from inside?
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Rudesing
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You could, but then you might as well get a cheaper option, can't see what the benefit of having a Hilite over something like this:
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-lastolite-180x150cm-collapsible-freestyle/p1008989
unless it is lit from the inside. But I might be missing something
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-lastolite-180x150cm-collapsible-freestyle/p1008989
unless it is lit from the inside. But I might be missing something
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cambsno
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That is exactly what I have now, plus a larger photodeals one. Photodeals one is good... BUT, the train can get messy, also is a real pain to keep flat - you cant basically so there are always creases and ripples - It is also a pain finding 2.2m or clear wall space. The smaller one has no train. Thinking the hilite would be the answer?
the hilites could be to bright because people are following the info on the lastolite video and have the hilite 2 stops higher than the subject. If the subject is close to the hilite this will cause problems. 1 stop should be more than enough
Garry Edwards
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To keep it flat I have 2 sheets of clear acrylic lying on top of the train.
This creates a nice refection and the only pp work is to clone out the join line between the sheets and where they meet the base of the hilite.
JonathanRyan
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You're right, it's an expensive option if you're not going to light it. But it does stand up by itself (unlike the pop ups that claim to be self supporting). Not only does this save you stands and hassle if it gets knocked hard enough to knock it over then it falls slowly and generally without real harm. A metal pole full of vinyl on top of 2 light stands falls much faster
Oh and they have another side too. This is a hilite.....
I am warrior by Jonathan Ryan, on FlickrHas anyone had anything from photodeals.co.uk recently, ive placed an order with them last week and not heard anything from them and contacting them is pretty much impossible ?? Any ideas ??
Thankyou
Nikki
Update !! Everything is all fine now.. Probably just me being over worrying again !
Thankyou
Nikki
Update !! Everything is all fine now.. Probably just me being over worrying again !
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tdodd
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That info is just plain wrong. 0.7 stop is fine, 0.5 stop is OK.
If you are lighting the Hilite internally then you will effectively be metering reflected light (although it is emitted light rather than reflected, but it amounts to the same thing) and to make the Hilite appear white you will need to expose at least 2 stops brighter than your main subject. There may be a further contribution from your main light, which makes +2 a good starting point, but be prepared to go a bit higher. I don't see anything wrong with the metering advice given on the Lastolite video.
If you are front lighting it then you will meter incident light and +0.5 to +0.7 should be plenty.
HoppyUK
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I'm not sure that stacks up Tim. The nature of the HiLite is such that the subject is usually pretty close to it, and being such a large light source it doesn't follow the inverse square law very closely.
Basically it doesn't matter that much where you meter it from, within reason, but an incident reading of two stops higher is too much. It bleaches the subject outline badly.
Ultimately, using blinkies to set the point of over exposure just higher than the main subject is the most reliable method of setting the final exposure. It takes into account all the variables of power settings and ratios and fall off and metering methods (not to mention lens vignetting and whether the camera is calibrated for 18% or 12% grey etc etc) and shows you what you're actually getting in totality.
tdodd
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If you light the Hilite internally, why would you be trying to meter incident light? Until you add front lighting for the subject there is no incident light to be metered. The Hilite on its own needs to be metered as a reflected light source. If you want white to look white then you need it to reflect back (or in this case emit light) at least 2 stops brighter than middle grey. You're not going to see the background clipping at only +2 stops, not unless you add a good dose of extra light from the front.
If you are going to front light the Hilite then you will be measuring incident light and +0.5 to +0.7 stops brighter incident illumination should be enough.
If you do have your subject very close to the Hilite then obviously it is going to pick up a fair amount light from the key light, and that is not only going to reflect back to the camera but also splash all over your subject, moreso if your Hilite is large relative the the subject and distances involved. You might want to dial down the Hilite itself, but it would probably be better to move your subject further away from the Hilite. That'll give you advantages through distance and reduced relative size.
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Garry Edwards
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In theory (only) it's transmitted light but some of that light is also reflected light, simply because light transmitted through it also reflects off of the less than perfectly flat surface of the diffuser. Would you describe light bounced off of a reflector as transmitted? No, it's reflected, and this is similar.
And you can measure by incident light, simply by pointing the flash meter receptor at it from zero distance, the meter will, as always, measure the quantity of light incident upon it.
What I'm about to say sounds critical of the Hi-Lite, but it isn't meant to be. The Hi-Lite is a very useful tool, especially for people who are very short of space, but the principle on which it operates is flawed. Because the light is transmitted the whole of the diffuser becomes a light source, and it travels in a straight line right at the subject and right at the lens. The light that hits the lens causes flare, sometimes this is obvious and even when it isn't it reduces the overall contrast. And light that hits the back of the subject is far more likely to cause edge degradation than a paper etc background because the traditional method of lighting a normal background is from an oblique angle, and although a certain amount of light will obviously bounce onto the rear of the subject, cosine law means that far less will reach it because of the angle of reflectance.
Hi-Lite backgrounds don't benefit from the effect of cosine law, so it is even more important not to overexpose the background by anymore than necessary. You're absolutely right when you say that it helps to increase the distance from subject to background, but the fact of the matter is that people buy them because they want blown white backgrounds in small spaces - which is a bit of an oxymoron - and they often simply don't have the space to move the subject away from the background.
As with everything to do with lighting, an understanding of the nature and behaviour of light (basic physics in other words) is a massive help. But testing is a massive help too, and my advice to anyone who doesn't know whether to follow Lastolite's advice of overexposing by 2 stops or to follow my advice of overexposing by about 0.7 of a stop should simply test it for themselves.