Developing tmax 100

Ben johns

Ben johns

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I’ve only ever used Ilford black and white and after seeing that Clyde Butcher uses tmax 100 I wanted to try it. I looked it up on the massive dev chart but for ilfosol 3 which is the developer I use it only gives times for iso 80 and 160. How do I adjust the times? Or is iso 80 close enough to 100 to use the same time
 
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The way I use to set up my standards in B&W is through a strip test.

Shooting a very extended DR target at third ƒ stop increments below
and over the nominal ISO will give you the range of the emulsion you
want to use. The goal being to find it's DR comfort zone.

I preferred using the strip test method to the developing time adjust-
ment because that is only one parameter to control instead on many.
 
Ben johns said:
I’ve only ever used Ilford black and white and after seeing that Clyde Butcher uses tmax 100 I wanted to try it. I looked it up on the massive dev chart but for ilfosol 3 which is the developer I use it only gives times for iso 80 and 160. How do I adjust the times? Or is iso 80 close enough to 100 to use the same time
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about it, I doubt you would notice a difference in development between 80 and 100.
 
Kodiak Qc said:
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The way I use to set up my standards in B&W is through a strip test.

Shooting a very extended DR target at third ƒ stop increments below
and over the nominal ISO will give you the range of the emulsion you
want to use. The goal being to find it's DR comfort zone.

I preferred using the strip test method to the developing time adjust-
ment because that is only one parameter to control instead on many.
Click to expand...

What target do you use? I immediately thought of a black and white print test chart that I have (from Northlight Images, I think... have to check, will correct if wrong) which has step wedges etc. However, that's been printed on my consumer grade printer, so unlikely to be at all accurate.

EDIT: Yes, linked from here: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/test-image-for-black-and-white-printing/
 
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Massive Dev chart has times for that combo @Ben johns

EDIT: No it doesn't, I'm talking tripe, sorry
 
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If you use an Android phone there's an app I use called Film Developer Pro which would give the times. Can't remember how much it cost but it's definitely worth it. T-max often needs much longer fixing times than Ilford film to get rid of the pink hue from the film.
 
ChrisR said:
What target do you use?
Click to expand...


I made myself a 62 shades of grey +W +B chart
to test the chromogenic emulsion of XP2/C41 and
still use it for everything.
 
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On a tangent does anyone know how Clyde Butcher meters his photos? I read he started after seeing ansel Adams so I would have thought he would use the zone system. Just wondering if his photos are the result of filters more than development, I know he uses an orange and red filter. I only use roll film so just interested really, can’t use the zone system
 
If he's shooting sheet film, it almost certainly will be the zone system
 
robhooley167 said:
If he's shooting sheet film, it almost certainly will be the zone system
Click to expand...
Not necessarily he may use the slapdash, guesstimate, fingers crossed and hope for the best system.
 
The T-Max 100 data sheet says it can be shot at an EI of 100 or 200 without the need to push the film...which I assume means you will just see a slightly higher contrast at 200, with a small decrease in shadow detail. It says that's when T-Max developer is used, but if you look further down, the times for Xtol at EI 100 or 200 are identical. So what I'm saying is: it's a forgiving film that's going to give you great results a couple of stops under and over box speed, as long as you watch what you're doing. The important bit from the data sheet:

The nominal speed of KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX 100 Film is EI 100...Exposing the film at EI 100 should usually lead to the minimum exposure required to produce negatives of very high quality...This film has good latitude and responds well to changes in development time. For consistent results, use the rated speed or make tests to determine a speed rating that meets your needs. Under most conditions, you’ll obtain highest quality with normal exposure at the rated exposure index and normal development. For high-contrast scenes, you’ll obtain highest quality if you increase exposure by one or two stops and process the film normally. If normal development produces negatives that are consistently too low in contrast, increase the development time slightly (10 to 15 percent). If negatives are too contrasty, decrease the development time slightly (10 to 15 percent)...If your negatives are too thin, increase exposure by using a lower exposure index; if too dense, reduce exposure by using a higher exposure index.

http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/products/f4016_TMax_100.pdf

Both T-Max films are awesome, and don't get enough love in my opinion. I'd like to support Ilford more, but T-Max and Xtol are just winners for me every time. The only downside of T-Max for me is that it's so high resolution, I can't focus the grain under the enlarger! It's like making a tiny enlargement of other medium format film.
 
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Well, considering you lot only ever seem to drag your leather and walnut bird boxes ... sorry, I mean large format cameras, out in fine weather the exposure should be simple... sunny 16! :D ;)
 
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