'Design Flaw' - Advice, Arca Swiss P0

Gogster

Gogster

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I have an Arca Swiss Monoball P0 for swap in the relevant section of this forum. No takers as yet, but an offer.

I actually like the head, the one reason it bugs me is what I believe is a design flaw. Let me explain, QR plates on camera bodies tend to sit parallel to the long edge of the body, unless you're using Black Rapid or similar QR plates, mine is a Wimberley P-5.

As such, when on the tripod the camera body sits over the bubble level and the extends over the other side of the head. The bubble head doesn't really concern me, what is annoying is the bubble sits in a bit of metal that sticks out of the body of the head, if you want the screw tightening bit to face you so you can get to it easily, the bubble level sits over the panning release and you can't activate it. You could, of course, just loosen the ball mechanism, but you may be set up as intended and only want to pan left or right.

The other option is to have the QR release knob on the other side and reach round to release, which is not the end of the world.

I wondered if anyone with the same head has come up with a solution? Perhaps an additional bit of head that screws to the top of the P0 head without the QR bit and the QR bit screws into that, thus extending the distance between the bubble level and the pan release.

Hopefully I've explained that and it isn't too waffley!

39322617800_3821dd58fe_b.jpg
 
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Use a shorter QR plate? I've just bought a 50mm one for a few quid...
 
I think the best and zero cost option for what is actually a very good head, is to swivel the locking nut to the far side, so it would sit under the lens when mounted. The level bubble would be on the left, away from the pan release.

Not ideal, but saves arsing around selling/swapping it etc.
 
If you are setting up for level Panos, then set the tripod/head before mounting the camera. Other than that, the bubble level and being perfectly level is pretty irrelevant.
I put the arca clamp knob forward under the lens. The panning lock lever's position is variable in relation to the top clamp, I don't really feel it is more accessible in any particular position as long as it's not forward.

If the orientation you are showing is the problem then the plate is not parallel w/ the camera base, it is perpendicular. I would suggest you get a L-bracket instead for use w/ the P-0, even a cheap "universal/generic" version.
 
I can see what the OP means by the extruding bubble above the pan knob restricting access to turn the pan knob but it sounds like it’s easily rectified by having the arcs Swiss clamp knob beneath the lens side. To me what sounds like a design flaw is the need to take the camera on and off each time to look at the bubble level, although that’s probably easily rectified by using the in camera levelling function.
 
Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but I don't see the problem. The clamp and built-in bubble move independently of the main body so you can rotate and position it anywhere you want? FWIW I have mine with the pan-lock at around 2 o'clock and it's hardly ever in the way when operating the main locking ring with my left hand.

If there is a design flaw, it's with that particular clamp which is not at all nice to use. I changed mine (not as hard to remove as we're led to believe) for a cheapy from Amazon that works much better, looks better, has the bubble in a better position opposite the clamp-lock, is lighter and has a fast-thread on the clamping knob, and cost £12 - this one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00N5HHRO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The other problem is not a design flaw as such but integral to the way the head works, meaning that you really need an L-bracket for verticals* but any serious tripod user should have one of those anyway ;)

*or an extra panning base
 
Hi @HoppyUK you are right, maybe these pics will help what I'm trying to explain, however, I've been messing around with this tonight (as you can see) and I've decided I'm being a bit whiny, on testing the pan release actually only requires about 45 degrees of turning and it's well capable of being loosened whilst the bubble is over it, the second shot shows as such.

I'm off to give myself a good talking-to.

Untitled by Darryl Godden, on Flickr

Untitled by Darryl Godden, on Flickr
 
Gogster said:
Hi @HoppyUK you are right, maybe these pics will help what I'm trying to explain, however, I've been messing around with this tonight (as you can see) and I've decided I'm being a bit whiny, on testing the pan release actually only requires about 45 degrees of turning and it's well capable of being loosened whilst the bubble is over it, the second shot shows as such.
Click to expand...

That's also true ;)

I'm off to give myself a good talking-to.
Click to expand...

While you're chatting, ask yourself if you deserve an L-bracket. For verticals, they stop the tripod getting off balance and there's no repositioning needed as the lens stays pretty much in exactly the same position. And with the P0, it's not that you can't shoot verticals without an L-bracket, but it's much more awkward.

Then enjoy. I've tested dozens of ball heads for my work and this is the only one I've been moved to actually buy for out and about (geared head for studio). It's combination of small size and weight, great strength, ease of use with precise control and positioning is exceptional. It's unique design is also particularly well suited to a monopod :thumbs: It's just a shame about that clamp, which a lot of people change.
 
HoppyUK said:
That's also true ;)



While you're chatting, ask yourself if you deserve an L-bracket. For verticals, they stop the tripod getting off balance and there's no repositioning needed as the lens stays pretty much in exactly the same position. And with the P0, it's not that you can't shoot verticals without an L-bracket, but it's much more awkward.

Then enjoy. I've tested dozens of ball heads for my work and this is the only one I've been moved to actually buy for out and about (geared head for studio). It's combination of small size and weight, great strength, ease of use with precise control and positioning is exceptional. It's unique design is also particularly well suited to a monopod (y) It's just a shame about that clamp, which a lot of people change.
Click to expand...

:)

I don't believe Kirk et. al. make an L bracket for the 5D3 without battery grip, which is not really something I'm keen on, the 5D3 is my lightweight camera!
 
Gogster said:
:)

I don't believe Kirk et. al. make an L bracket for the 5D3 without battery grip, which is not really something I'm keen on, the 5D3 is my lightweight camera!
Click to expand...

There are plenty around, and you don't have to spend a fortune for decent quality. It's worth looking into this, and I'd avoid anything with a sharp corner that digs into your hand. There's also the issue of cable access but I get around that with a little IR release instead of a plug-in cord. This means the L-bracket doesn't need to stick out so far, and you can get spacers if needs be for occasional use.
 
Gogster said:
:)

I don't believe Kirk et. al. make an L bracket for the 5D3 without battery grip, which is not really something I'm keen on, the 5D3 is my lightweight camera!
Click to expand...

Why spend Kirk money on an l bracket. Sunwayfoto do very good L brackets at a fraction of the price and, like Kirk, they are just a chunk of machined alloy.
 
ecoleman said:
Why spend Kirk money on an l bracket. Sunwayfoto do very good L brackets at a fraction of the price and, like Kirk, they are just a chunk of machined alloy.
Click to expand...

True, however it's a bracket, not the make, that I do not want.
 
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