D3100 and manual flash

landerson07

landerson07

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Afternoon all, I'm just getting into OCFAnd have been reading loads!

I've just bought the lastolite hilite, 2 x yongnuo yn 468 ii flashes to light it and a single yongnuo yn 560 ii for my main light in a softbox!

Most things are making sense to me except the flash settings!

So a couple of things that are boxing my head:

1. I think I have a grip on flash power settings but the zoom settings are confusing me slightly. I understand that focal length on the flash = focal length on the camera for fx, but how does this change on my DX camera? Say I'm using a 50mm lens, what should my focal length be on my flash?
2. How is the zoom flash length affected by using a softbox?
3. Does zoom length matter for the flashes in the hilite?

I intend to do a lot more reading but I was hoping someone could help me on the right path?

Hopefully I'll be able to set it all up today and mess on to see the differences settings make on the final image!

Thanks in advance and sorry if these questions are a little basic

Lee
 
Forget the zoom settings. Theyre there to eke out the power of a small flashgun on a camera. So they change the width of the flash so that you're not lighting a wider area than you're shooting.

So as soon as you take the flash off camera, the zoom setting makes little difference (although it's worth playing with along with your modifiers to see if there's an optimum pattern for your particular modifier).
For instance, a flash at telephoto setting won't produce as soft a light as the same flash at WA settings at the same distance from the same umbrella - but you don't want it so wide that it spills past the side (I've no idea whether it could even do that - I just leave mine how they fall when I remove them from the camera, unless in a snoot)
 
Phil V said:
Forget the zoom settings. Theyre there to eke out the power of a small flashgun on a camera. So they change the width of the flash so that you're not lighting a wider area than you're shooting.

So as soon as you take the flash off camera, the zoom setting makes little difference (although it's worth playing with along with your modifiers to see if there's an optimum pattern for your particular modifier).
For instance, a flash at telephoto setting won't produce as soft a light as the same flash at WA settings at the same distance from the same umbrella - but you don't want it so wide that it spills past the side (I've no iea whether it could even do that - I just leave mine how they fall when I remove them from the camera, unless in a snoot)
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Thank you, that makes things so much easier :)

I'll have a mess on when I set it all up to see if I can see any difference!
 
If you suss out the YN560 on a D3100 give me a shout!!

I've just bought one and need some help with it. When I increase my shutter speed over anything 1/200 and above I get about 2 inches of flash at the top of the picture and the rest in darkness.

I suppose I really need to sit down and read through all the instructions but if anyone can give me any pointers I'd be most grateful.
 
I think the d3100 has a max flash sync speed of 1/200 but I've found I have to use 1/160! That will sort your problem
 
landerson07 said:
I think the d3100 has a max flash sync speed of 1/200 but I've found I have to use 1/160! That will sort your problem
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Do you know if there is anyway around this? Or would I really need a faster speed?

Its for shooting indoors with a couple of studio lights helping out.
 
No with the d3100 you're limited to 1/200 but that is more than enough to block out ambient light in a studio!

You might struggle outdoors in bright sun but a lot of cameras will have a max sync speed of 1/250

Why would you need a faster shutter speed in the studio?
 
Colin44 said:
Do you know if there is anyway around this? Or would I really need a faster speed?

Its for shooting indoors with a couple of studio lights helping out.
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For shooting indoors with studio lights, no. Your D3100 is limited to 1/200 for it's flash sync speed.

For on camera flash then you can buy a flash which supports High Speed Sync (or Auto-FP in Nikon language) like the Yongnuo YN568, Metz AF-50 which will allow you to use flash at any shutter speed your camera will support.
 
gadgeteer said:
For shooting indoors with studio lights, no. Your D3100 is limited to 1/200 for it's flash sync speed.

For on camera flash then you can buy a flash which supports High Speed Sync (or Auto-FP in Nikon language) like the Yongnuo YN568, Metz AF-50 which will allow you to use flash at any shutter speed your camera will support.
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I don't think the d3100 supports auto fp
 
Colin44 said:
If you suss out the YN560 on a D3100 give me a shout!!

I've just bought one and need some help with it. When I increase my shutter speed over anything 1/200 and above I get about 2 inches of flash at the top of the picture and the rest in darkness.

I suppose I really need to sit down and read through all the instructions but if anyone can give me any pointers I'd be most grateful.
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Sounds like a plan ;)

landerson07 said:
I don't think the d3100 supports auto fp
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It does. FP-sync (HSS in Canon speak) is a flash gun feature, not camera.
 
Ah, its amazing what you can do when you spend some time reading instructions and playing around with things.

1/1, 1/2, 1/8 upto 1/128 is power settings, focal length sorted, shutter speed sorted but more importantly camera flash settings now correct. I think I've got the basics covered, just need to get more practice with it on my chosen subjects.
 
landerson07 said:
Now I stand corrected lol

Edit: I've been reading around the net and it still seems like this isn't an option on the d3100

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/D3100/D3100FLASH.HTM
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Well as above, it is a flashgun feature, not a camera feature, lots of camera's description's list 1/200 sync or around that figure, that's the limit of the camera but not the flashgun, if that makes sense, the HSS comes from a more powerful flash from the gun(or smaller more frequent flash's, not sure without more reading ) to light up the shutter all the way across the sensor as the shutter travels across the sensor at high speed, (I think from what I can make out of it) I guess the camera manufacturers list it as a selling point though on some models.

I could be wrong completely and without actually trying it or knowing someone who can confirm it, I will find out when I get a flash that is capable I suppose.
 
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Ivan S said:
Well as above, it is a flashgun feature, not a camera feature, lots of camera's description's list 1/200 sync or around that figure, that's the limit of the camera but not the flashgun, if that makes sense, the HSS comes from a more powerful flash from the gun(or smaller more frequent flash's, not sure without more reading)
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It is a camera feature as well as the camera needs to start the flash off just as the first curtain is opening rather than when it is fully open as in normal flash.

HSS is a series of flashes during the duration of the shutter opening and is quite wasteful of power.


Steve.
 
Without being able to test it, as my flashes don't have this feature, from what I've read the d3100 doesn't seem to have the menu option even when a compatible flash is attached?
 
landerson07 said:
Now I stand corrected lol

Edit: I've been reading around the net and it still seems like this isn't an option on the d3100

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/D3100/D3100FLASH.HTM
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landerson07 said:
Without being able to test it, as my flashes don't have this feature, from what I've read the d3100 doesn't seem to have the menu option even when a compatible flash is attached?
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Seems like I owe an apology - you're right.

Apparently the D3100 doesn't support FP-sync/HSS, even with a suitable gun fitted. Some other lower end Nikons have this limitation too :thumbsdown:

TBH I'm amazed. All the camera needs for this to work is issue an earlier trigger signal, the gun does all the work. All Canon DSLRs can do it :shrug:
 
Just another reason for me to use when convincing the gf to let me upgrade lol!
 
landerson07 said:
Just another reason for me to use when convincing the gf to let me upgrade lol!
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It's one of the unsung Canon vs Nikon issues for newbies. I always say its a build vs features argument.

With low end Canons having most of the features of their more advanced siblings but they feel cheap. Whereas the low end Nikons are much 'nicer' cameras with money saved on features.
 
Well that's a shame, something I never noticed when purchasing the D3100
 
Ivan S said:
Well that's a shame, something I never noticed when purchasing the D3100
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Yeah there's a few things I've found I overlooked when buying the d3100! No HDR bracketing, no IR, fewer focus points, no cls, no official battery grip to name a few
 
I can't see it being much of a problem though, it's still a great camera all told for the price, and can't complain too much as it would really be a specialized area to use FP Sync anyway.

Not something a new dslr user needs I should imagine.
 
Ivan S said:
I can't see it being much of a problem though, it's still a great camera all told for the price, and can't complain too much as it would really be a specialized area to use FP Sync anyway.

Not something a new dslr user needs I should imagine.
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That's a matter of opinion, and at the core of the marketing differences between Nikon and Canon.

Not all Entry level buyers are new users, some are coming back to photography, or are moving up from older models that are holding them back. I bought a 300d, from mid range film SLRs, and I was frustrated by the lack of some features, there's no way I could have settled for a similarly priced Nikon.
 
Ivan S said:
I can't see it being much of a problem though, it's still a great camera all told for the price, and can't complain too much as it would really be a specialized area to use FP Sync anyway.

Not something a new dslr user needs I should imagine.
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Not at all, FP sync isn't at all specialised or difficult.

One of the main uses is for back-lit portraits that look great with the sun behind, then a splash of fill-in flash to brighten faces and put a sparkle in the eyes. Almost by definition, these situations tend to be quite bright so the shutter speed natually rises quite high above normal max x-sync.
 
HoppyUK said:
Not at all, FP sync isn't at all specialised or difficult.

One of the main uses is for back-lit portraits that look great with the sun behind, then a splash of fill-in flash to brighten faces and put a sparkle in the eyes. Almost by definition, these situations tend to be quite bright so the shutter speed natually rises quite high above normal max x-sync.
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Would there be a work around for it?

Like maybe a ND filter to lower the light, so lower shutter speeds can be used?
 
Ivan S said:
Would there be a work around for it?

Like maybe a ND filter to lower the light, so lower shutter speeds can be used?
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Yes, that's a common workaround, though not nearly so convenient.

Thing about FP-sync/HSS is that it's part of the auto-TTL flash control system and integrates seamlessly with normal sync flash photography. Either in manual or auto mode when the gun switches in and out of FP-sync/HSS operation whenever the shutter speed needs to rise above the normal x-sync max.
 
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