Cycling

I don't have it yet but I've paid a deposit and will be collecting it in September.

2006 Kona Caldera

Kona-Caldera.jpg


Frame tubing - Kona 7005 Aluminum
Fork - Marzocchi MZ-2 100mm
F/D - Shimano Deore
R/D - Shimano Deore XT
Shifters - Shimano Deore
Brakes - Hayes Hydraulic HFX-9 XC
Brake Levers - Hayes Hydraulic HFX-9 XC
Rear hub Shimano FH-M475 disc
 
the Caldera as a bike has been around for years, tis a good un :thumbs:
 
Yep, slicks for commute to work. Moohasive difference over knobblies on the road.

It's been a bit of a trial getting them fitted. Basically it's been a case of, if I can get it worng I will do. Best so far has been pads on wrong way round (braking surfact on the outside). D'oh!

Brakes need a proper bleeding now, Shimano propose a very poor method of pumping the brakes until the air bubbles rise to the top. Get my dad to give me a hand and bleed them car style.

:)
 
i prefer to pressure bleed them tbh.

but it depends on how shimano have done the fil ports on your levers.

Just be sure not to spill the fluid on the paint work. If you do get it on there, plenty of cold water will wash it off.

I used to have a spare set of rims with slicks on, i had a small off which destroyed a front though, so now I just stick to 1 set of tyres for all.
 
bleeding brakes - yeruch!! Hope do an easy thing for that which I'm sure could work on the shimano's - unscrew bottom bolt, attach a tube connected to a bottle, at the top you open the reservoir and pour brake fluid in. if you got it right, when you drain the old stuff you add the new at the same time, bubbles are forced out and robert is your mother's brother...

what slicks are those? ever tried some hutchinson gold slicks? I had a pair and they're savage, 1" thin, pretty grippy and light as anything = flippin' fast.

edit: is that a trek bike too? guessing by the pain job just visible...
 
Well the Shimano procedure is to open the bottom, pump the brakes till oil appears, lock it off, pump the brakes a bit more, repeat until feels firm. Wait a bit for bubbles to rise and then repeat. Madness.

What's most eannoying is their requirement of a 7mm spanner. Eh? Why?
To bleed them properly will take two people, one person on the lever and one person on the bleed nipple. Got them fairly solid at the moment so I'll try that until my dad comes down at the weekend to give me a hand. :)

tyres are Continental Contact Sports, 1.3 inch:

cont_sport_20_2309_detail.jpg



Yup, a Trek 4300. Bought it because the frame is good even if the bits are (were) bad. :)
 
Ahhh, falling into the 'need tread when wet' camp are we! :D

Perfectly fine (so far) in our lovely Bristol weather. Road them in and back on Friday with water up to my ears and they are great. Admittedly a bit shakey in gravel! :D
 
I took over 400 shots at The Scottish Mountain Bike Downhill Championships yesterday but I can't get to any of them at the mo as my hard disk battery is flat.

This shot is taken by Dougie Todd of my boy on his Giant Team Downhill bike. Brakes are Hope (4 pot front/6 pot rear). Mojo suspension has had several tweaks by it's previous owner (current Scottish #1) which it makes it rather plush. Greg has it set to fast but should see him well into next season.

220316124_5753749e3c_m.jpg



I myself run a Specialized Rockhopper disc and can say that it will not produce any sexy shots because it is scratched, bashed and abused as a mountain bike should be. The Highlands have some fantastic trails BTW.

I still have my 1980's Trek and it runs as good as gold. The dayglo paint job is a bit :eek: though.
 
Ok, upgrade is complete!

IMG_6999_800x533.jpg


First impressions are, arse they don't work initially! Take a bit of bedding in, but after a few faster than I'd like decents through the trees the back brake is now working nicely to the tune of one finger lock ups :D.
Front brake will be worn in during the commute. :)

I like them!
 
yum yum orange!
I've got to clean my brakes, general grime getting to them causing them to be slightly soft - they were stupidly sharp new - its not that there's air in the system, just pads not gripping as well on the disc itself.
 
I've still got a fair amount of air in mine, very soft on the levers. But to bleed them properly is a two man job so I'm going to get the old man to help me at the weekend. :)
 
Hope you've locktite'd the disc mounting bolts in.

I had a disc come loose on a decent, the results weren't pretty :eek:
 
It's the new fangled shimano center mount jobbies, I'm hoping that the factory fitted discs are welded on! :D
 
Ah, they've riveted them to an adaptor plate.
Is that going to be a standard others will adopt, or are you stuck with having to use shimano hubs?
 
I fully suspect the latter. It's only a rotor and hub issue, so just new rotors if I change the hubs.
 
I've just been looking at the shimano site

the XTR discs look cool.

Not sure i'd change my old skool mini's for them though.
 
XTR stuff is very beautiful but silly prices. LX rulz dude!!!!
 
XTR is dependable in the toughest situations,

being able to shift when the back mech is completely covered in drying mud is worth the extra cash, not to mention the fact that it'll last a wee bit longer than the lower levels.

Xtr for the bits that need to work, Xt for the bits that you'll break and for all the bits in between........we have Easton :D
 
Easton? Wassat?

I know I had some Tourney bits and still have a Avilo rear mech.

I think next on the list of upgrades it has to be forks. My £45 RST Gila T5 (wooo) forks are not liking the extra torque those discs are generating :D.
 
Easton make some of the best contact components I've used.

My Intense has Easton seat post, stem and bars.

easton_post_05_ec70_road_s_06_m.jpg
 
Yes, we're still waiting for photos on this mythical 'Intense'!
:D
 
well it's a long weekend.....so i'll see what I can do for you
 
knew a guy who was intense's best customer in the UK, he had 5 of them...
DH racer of some sort if I recall rightly, have to have a screw loose to do that, tons of respect to them, still nuts.
XTR stuff is nice but not always worth it, rear mech, cassette and cranks perhaps (XT are notoriously soft on the middle ring - otherwise not bad). I only run an lx front mech, not point going higher its one of the least used parts of a bike, i guess my lx shifters could do with an upgrade one day to fit everything else but again I've indexed them so tightly it'd be a faff to change and it'd take ages to sort out. also have some fox forx that I'm thinking of ditching and getting some rockshox rebas or marzocchis...foxes - despite the hype- aren't that great. mine went back for servicing 4 times in half as many months! only original part on them are the outer legs! have lots of mates who had foxes but sold them on - too high maintainance, whats the point of spending more time cleaning than actual riding??
I just want a bike thats light and works, faffing around with faulty bits gets m' goat. haven't gone down the ful sus route because of that I guess, might be tempted though if it becomes feasable...like the look of marin attack trails or specialized stumpy fsr (mine's an HT stumpy, fast as fe*k!)...
oops, I've rambled - apologies!
 
No appologies required, always interested in ramblings on a subject I'm just getting into!

I think I'm gonna ride my bike through the winter as is, let the muck take it out on my cheap rear mech and forks and then replace them with something better.

I was thinking of getting the ever popular Marzocchi MX Comps but I've recently been tempted by some RS Revelations. Twice the price but offer a lot more adjustment. I like the idea of adjustable travel.
 
I've done a little bit of Cycling Photography if it helps :thumbs:

YW6E3053.jpg


QZ5Q8823.jpg


IMG_0908.jpg


REV11_166.jpg


Ind%20Sen%20SF_0082.jpg


Oakham%20to%20Melton%20Classic_175.jpg


I hope they are helpful :)
 
people on other forums used to know me as stumpy because of my jaunts out on specialzed's finest.....not to mention hitting a tree stump while hoofing down a decent while mounted on afore mentioned metal matrix stead ;)

I had a pair of zocci's once, low pressure air jobs with 100mm of bounce reduction, i didn't rate them that well tbh, but they were better than the SIDs i had on the other bike at the time.

part of me yearns for a set of Pace RC's, but the manitou's just won't wear out.

Sammy, adjustable travel is a fad, you'll set them once and leave it alone. Decent control of compression and rebound is all you need no matter what terrain your riding.


Nice pics there Rhodopsin
 
Woo, nice selection there R! WTF is going on with the second to last photo though! :D

What would you recommend then DF, I want to be able to lock out the travel for my commute but I don't want full lock out i.e. still a bit of suss for the oh so bobbly roads we have.
 
If I'm climbing, I always drop the travel to lower the front and then open it up at the top. I can adjust between 90 and 130mm in 3mm steps with my fork - Fox Talas RLC.

I tend to lock the fork as soon as I'm on tarmac, otherwise its left open. Ive never played with rebound and compression though, just have them set mid way.

I've got rebound control on the rear shock, but i havent touched that either. Think its set mid-way.
 
If it were me, i'd go for a nice set of Pace 39's in 80mm form.

plush as a plush thing sat in a tub of plush stuff :D
and the handle bar remove lock out is great for locking out during hard sprints and climbs....and tarmac
 
Woo, not cheap mind, £350 on Wiggle.
 
just for you Sammy, i took a few snaps of the Tracer

tracer.jpg


mech.jpg


it gets used more than my camera does too :lol:

spd.jpg
 
Wooo, purdy!

So has your thingamajig made much difference on the rear shifting?
 
I'd never be without one.

That one's an avid rollamajig, shifting is crisper and it makes the cabling around the mech so much neater with less chance of getting it snagged on the undergrowth.
 
aye. elite's

stiffer than the sid's of the time and quite plush for an air fork.
I'm waiting for them to die so i can get a set of Pace 39's on the front, but so far they are working fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top