Cyclescheme

Dangermouse

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I'm looking at joining this at work as it seems to be a very cheap way of getting a top spec bike at a very low price, has anyone got any info apart from whats on the web and the limited info work has given me:thumbs:
 
What do you want to know? I may be able to help.
 
there seems to be a fee at the end of the contract any ideas?
 
there seems to be a fee at the end of the contract any ideas?

i presume cyclescheme is the same as the cycle to work scheme?

this is what put me off, the fee appears to be entirely upto your employer which as far as im concerned would screw up any savings available.

the good things i saw about the scheme are that you pay before tax, so your effectively not taxed on the cost of the bike, but i might be wrong.
 
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I bought a bike through the Ride2Work scheme a couple of years ago, but there was no payment due at the end of the deduction period.

You choose your bike and qualifying accessories, send the details to the scheme operator, they invoice your employer who then pay the invoice. You receive the voucher in the post that you then redeem in the shop.

The deductions are normally 10 or 12 installments that total the voucher value you receive, and that's it. :shrug:
 
I am reading about it now from the works website and the final fee to keep the bike is 5% and the quote I have had from the scheme is to buy a bike at £959.99 and the monthly fee would be £48p/m which is £576 after all the deductions and tax relief then add 5% @ £47.99 = £623.99 for a bike costing £959 saving £335.......plus petrol and getting me fit sounds good
 
Have a look at the Ride2Work scheme as well Pete, see how that stacks up (there is no end payment that I'm aware of).

It's operated primarily by Evans Cycles, but others do operate it as well.
 
Have a look at the Ride2Work scheme as well Pete, see how that stacks up (there is no end payment that I'm aware of).

It's operated primarily by Evans Cycles, but others do operate it as well.

Thanks Simmotino, it looks like the same scheme with a different name but the cycleschem gives you the option of dealers across the country have a look www.cyclescheme.co.uk
 
also what I cant find about the scheme is, could I upgrade the next year or is it a one off buy scheme?
 
thats not too bad, my old employer would probably have the final payment as a compulsory part of the scheme and ensure it made him a tidy profit, sounds like your employer isnt that bad so you still make a fair saving.


I really think its a great incentive to get some cars off the road and get me fit again so I'm going to go for it and Eileen who already does miles on her heavy mtb is going to propose it to her employer too:thumbs:
 
its amazing the difference even swapping the tyres on a mountain bike to slicks makes. i recently put some on an old fully rigid bike i had and the difference is tremendous, the granny ring is usless now!

id love to be able to ride to work, im too to get up early and i think that come september work will be too far away to ride.
 
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Dont know nothing about the scheme other then what you posted, but you might be able to save more by buying a 'Last years model', my last road racer i saved £700 from the list of the current spec, only difference was the colour, but then you'd need the money up front which i suppose you dont have. What else are you thinking of using the bike for? as £900+ sounds alot for commuting theres some nice communting bikes for under £300.

And like said above if getting a mountain bike semi slick or full slick tyres roll sooooo much faster the full of roaders, semi slick even make great off road tyres so you wouldnt forced to stay on the tarmac like full slicks.
 
Dont know nothing about the scheme other then what you posted, but you might be able to save more by buying a 'Last years model', my last road racer i saved £700 from the list of the current spec, only difference was the colour, but then you'd need the money up front which i suppose you dont have. What else are you thinking of using the bike for? as £900+ sounds alot for commuting theres some nice communting bikes for under £300.

And like said above if getting a mountain bike semi slick or full slick tyres roll sooooo much faster the full of roaders, semi slick even make great off road tyres so you wouldnt forced to stay on the tarmac like full slicks.

many shops also do 0% finance on bikes. thats something to look at really isnt it russdaz, my thoughts are that a commuting bike might be left unattended for most of the day (unless your work has enough space to keep it indoors etc) and £900 of bike is alot to leave lying around for tealeafs.

my would be 'commuting bike' stands me at about £90 worth of parts and looks like a heap of mismatched junk!


then again if your plan is to use the bike for other things not just commuting then it might be useful!
 
many shops also do 0% finance on bikes. thats something to look at really isnt it russdaz, my thoughts are that a commuting bike might be left unattended for most of the day (unless your work has enough space to keep it indoors etc) and £900 of bike is alot to leave lying around for tealeafs.

my would be 'commuting bike' stands me at about £90 worth of parts and looks like a heap of mismatched junk!


then again if your plan is to use the bike for other things not just commuting then it might be useful!

Yeah thats true about 0%, hybreds will do off road, although they will not take the same abuse as a dedicated MTB if your into racing or doing drop off's etc. Too many people (not saying that is the case this time around) in buying MTB's with suspension of somekind as it will be nicer to ride, ok the ride will be soft but the bike will be heavy and very slow on road condition, the suspension will drink more energy from you covering the same distance and speed then a hardtail etc and £900+ is a pretty cheap suspension bike, could be a decent hard tail though, but still quite a bit for comuting.

Oh those comments are not air'd towards Whitewash, as i am sure you knew that any-way.
 
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i know russdaz!

a cheap full suspension bike is false economy, much better to buy a decent hard tail for a similar price, it'll be better specced, more reliable, better made and more rewarding to ride.

suspension isnt really needed for commuting on roads, it;ll slow you down as russdaz says,
 
And what kind of bike are you thinking of Pete, should be a decent one for nearly a grand.

Ps yes I know i will get the pics up soon, just had other things to do:)
 
I've used this site for my last 2 road bikes, the clearence section can provide some great bargins. My first one was a Saracen Morzine road racer followed by a Saracen Helix(road racer with flat bars) saved about 40% on each of these. I also have a Y-frame for trail riding. I commute off and on depending on the wifes shifts, we both work for the same company but at the moment were on the same pattern and the chance of getting her on a bike is :nono:


If you get a hard tail put some slicks on it they make a hell of a difference on tarmac.
 
Does the scheme cover all the other stuff you're likely to need e.g. clothing, shoes, lock, panniers & rack(s), CTC or other membership (for the insurance), spares etc?
 
UPDATE

I have just ordered the bike a GT Zaskar Elite, its a hardtail as it will be maily used for commuting with the odd weekend soft off road treks with the camera bag on my back, so nothing too strenuous.

heres the spec for the cyclists among you the final price was £999 but I think its worth it due to the componenents used

Frame GT NEW design hydroformed Kinesis Superlight custom tube-set Machined Head tube, disc compatible
Fork RockShox Tora, 100mm of travel, 7050 al steerer, Air sprung with rebound damping and motion control
Crankset Shimano 9 speed Octalink
Bottom Bracket ShimanoOctalink
Pedals Shimano PDM-520
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore SLX
Shifters Shimano 9 speed trigger
Cassette SRAM 9 speed, 11-32
Chain Shimano 9 speed
Wheelset WTB speed Disc XC with single eyelets
Tyres Front/Rear 26x2.0 Kenda Karma 120 TPI with Kevlar bead
Front Hub Shimano Deore Disc
Rear Hub Shimano Deore Disc
Spokes Stainless Steel
Nipples Brass CP
Front Brake Avid Juicy 3
Rear Brake Avid Juicy 3
Brake Levers Avid Juicy 3
Handlebar Ritchey Pro butted 2014 aluminium, flat 31.8mm clamp, 680mm width
Stem Ritchey 6061 cold forged stem, with 6 degree rise, and 4 bolt face plate
Grips GT Lock Down
Headset FSA Integrated, sealed angular contact bearing
Saddle WTB Rocket V Comp with CrMo rail and Kevlar shoulders
Seat Post Ritchey 31.6mm 3 D forged
Seat Clamp GT Aluminium QR
 
i know russdaz!

a cheap full suspension bike is false economy, much better to buy a decent hard tail for a similar price, it'll be better specced, more reliable, better made and more rewarding to ride.

suspension isnt really needed for commuting on roads, it;ll slow you down as russdaz says,

Thanks advice was taken on board and .......voila:thumbs:
 
Does the scheme cover all the other stuff you're likely to need e.g. clothing, shoes, lock, panniers & rack(s), CTC or other membership (for the insurance), spares etc?

Yes it covers everything but if you want insurance (which I do) it has to be arranged by myself, any advice on a good lock that wont damage the paintwork?
 
Dont know the bike or prices of mountain bikes as i got out of that scene a few years ago, but some of the componants on that spec list are pretty decent, you shouldnt get much trouble with shimano stuff if you keep it clean and oiled right.

Good lock wouldnt have a clue on that one, i wouldnt ever ever ever let my bike out of sight.
 
Apparently Deore was the stuff you dreamed of (well I did in the 90s)
 
Good lock wouldnt have a clue on that one, i wouldnt ever ever ever let my bike out of sight.


Don`t get anyform of cable lock as your sole defense, I work with the security dept at a uni with quite a bad bike theft problem, no word of a lie we`ve seen them on CCTV have bikes away within five seconds. They`ve even done it with other people near them. They`re so quick.

I`ve got a thatcham gold approved D lock combined with a secondary lock. It came to about £90 all in.

I admit, if they want it they`re going to get it but I`m not going to make it easy for them..
 
Apparently Deore was the stuff you dreamed of (well I did in the 90s)

Yeah its a decent middle grade spec, on a mountain bike proberly in the £30- £40 bracket for a rear drailer, where as there top end stuff being around £100 (XTR) even there top end mountain bike stuff is cheap compared to roadies, mine is about £140 for decent spec race part top end your looking near £450- £500. :cuckoo:

Problem with XTR top end stuff they wear out pretty quickly Deore isnt as quick or as smooth or as fast to shift but will last longer if looked after. :thumbs:

Don`t get anyform of cable lock as your sole defense, I work with the security dept at a uni with quite a bad bike theft problem, no word of a lie we`ve seen them on CCTV have bikes away within five seconds. They`ve even done it with other people near them. They`re so quick.

I`ve got a thatcham gold approved D lock combined with a secondary lock. It came to about £90 all in.

I admit, if they want it they`re going to get it but I`m not going to make it easy for them..

Yeah you will never stop a pro getting this mits on it, but i still wouldnt trust even a £90 lock with mine, i could sell it and buy a cheap car.

Best bet is getting it insured, most house insurance policy's can cover bikes but you will need to state the value of the bike, and in some cases depending on value of the bike pay a little extra.

There are specific insurances out there to if you want and cant get it covered on the home, some places will even offer roadside assitance believe it or not.
 
geez you are putting me off already............looking at the car and thinking .....7 day cooling off, only joking.............I want to reduce my own carbon footprint so this is my way which is helped by work Even though its a middle range bike its more than adequate for a near fifty(ish) bloke...innit
 
Yeah its a decent middle grade spec, on a mountain bike proberly in the £30- £40 bracket for a rear drailer, where as there top end stuff being around £100 (XTR) even there top end mountain bike stuff is cheap compared to roadies, mine is about £140 for decent spec race part top end your looking near £450- £500. :cuckoo:

Problem with XTR top end stuff they wear out pretty quickly Deore isnt as quick or as smooth or as fast to shift but will last longer if looked after. :thumbs:



Yeah you will never stop a pro getting this mits on it, but i still wouldnt trust even a £90 lock with mine, i could sell it and buy a cheap car.

Best bet is getting it insured, most house insurance policy's can cover bikes but you will need to state the value of the bike, and in some cases depending on value of the bike pay a little extra.

There are specific insurances out there to if you want and cant get it covered on the home, some places will even offer roadside assitance believe it or not.

Its all XTR on the model I am getting is this any good or am I being done as I know b****r all about bikes know a days
 
geez you are putting me off already............looking at the car and thinking .....7 day cooling off, only joking.............I want to reduce my own carbon footprint so this is my way which is helped by work Even though its a middle range bike its more than adequate for a near fifty(ish) bloke...innit

More then, it would be adequate for a training bike, you should have some of roading on it. Try looking out for local groups/rides to really get into it. If you had spec'd something with XTR's id have told you to down grade, XTR is great for racing but commuting no way just wouldnt last from memory the old XTR's i had where only rated for half the mileage of the Deaore.

The cycling bug can bite big then it gets expensive if you want to start racing, which where i am at. Although i am training for Tri's.

Edit just seen the other post have you got link to the bike?
 
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More then, it would be adequate for a training bike, you should have some of roading on it. Try looking out for local groups/rides to really get into it. If you had spec'd something with XTR's id have told you to down grade, XTR is great for racing but commuting no way just wouldnt last from memory the old XTR's i had where only rated for half the mileage of the Deaore.

The cycling bug can bite big then it gets expensive if you want to start racing, which where i am at. Although i am training for Tri's.

Edit just seen the other post have you got link to the bike?


Sorry not a link as its the 2010 model and havent even got the brochure, only seen the demo version in the local bike shop and most of it was plastic so just waiting for the real thing on thursday (demo bike) so if it appears and I am there in time will post something here
 
More then, it would be adequate for a training bike, you should have some of roading on it. Try looking out for local groups/rides to really get into it. If you had spec'd something with XTR's id have told you to down grade, XTR is great for racing but commuting no way just wouldnt last from memory the old XTR's i had where only rated for half the mileage of the Deaore.

The cycling bug can bite big then it gets expensive if you want to start racing, which where i am at. Although i am training for Tri's.

Edit just seen the other post have you got link to the bike?



I can swim a bit and cycle a little less so triathalons are not for my old body but good luck to you if you are fit enough to do even one the running killed me ............bad feet and all:suspect:
 
Sorry not a link as its the 2010 model and havent even got the brochure, only seen the demo version in the local bike shop and most of it was plastic so just waiting for the real thing on thursday (demo bike) so if it appears and I am there in time will post something here

Yeah been looking can only find out about the 2009 bike, tbh if its XTR, then you could say its a bit over spec'd just for commuting, but at that price i wouldnt say no, but deffo clean the chain, cogs etc and lob them up once a week or so, or straight after off roading. Theres very fine tolarances in the bearings which is why they are so good, but wear quicker, if go for the bike make sure you get it off road where it belongs! :thumbs:

I can swim a bit and cycle a little less so triathalons are not for my old body but good luck to you if you are fit enough to do even one the running killed me ............bad feet and all:suspect:

Swims my weakness, think nothing of running 10-15km, or cycling 50-60km but swim oh no, lol but thanks.
 
Can anyone shed some light on the actual frame material. it does seem to be made by Kinesis but out of what?????

Seems Kinesis make the frame...out of alloy
 
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Evans says of the 2009 model:

Frame:
GT design, force optimized, full monocoque carbon frame with replaceable derailleur hanger

Fork:
Rock Shox Tora with 100mm travel, 7050 aluminium steerer, air sprung with damping and motion control
 
Evans says of the 2009 model:

Frame:
GT design, force optimized, full monocoque carbon frame with replaceable derailleur hanger

Fork:
Rock Shox Tora with 100mm travel, 7050 aluminium steerer, air sprung with damping and motion control

Theres more then one model

a) GT Zaskar Expert 2009 for £1200-£1400 id imagine that is Alloy frame.

b) GT Zaskar Carbon Expert 2009 for £1500 that would be carbon

c) GT Zaskar Carbon Pro 2009 cant find anywhere quoting prices for that.

As for the 2010 specs cant find them any where the GT web page is a waste of time. Saying that found the Kinesis webby looks Ali it is
http://www.kinesis.com.tw/about.php
 
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