Condensation.

Dale.

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Dale.
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Our bungalow was built in 2004 and we've always had condensation problems during the Winter months. As soon as the air temperature outside drops overnight, we get condenstation on the windows, the bedrooms in particular but all are affected to an extent. At one point, the bottom corners of our bedroom walls started getting mould growth on them, which needed the room to be redecorated. :mad:

We had to move out a few years ago due to damage from a water leak but we had the condensation problems before the leak. The interior walls were all ripped out as well as the floors and replaced. They were all insulated with new insulation. The exterior walls however weren't removed. When I say walls, I mean the plasterboard. It's the outside walls that seem to be the worst, particularly our bedroom. Our bedroom also seems to always be cooler than the other rooms, even with the heating on:thinking:. The windows all around the house are all prone to condensation in the cold weather.

I'm quite sure that the walls, interior and exterior are all properly insulated. I understand that moisture from cooking, bath/shower etc can humidify the air and potentially cause problems, but we don't get condensation unless it's cold outside.

I have a theory:whistle:. I'm wondering if trying to keep an even temerature at alls times would help? The problem seems to be worse as the house cools down over night. Our heating is set to 19 degrees with a digital stat almost all the time as we are comfortable at that temperature, but we may turn it up for an hour maybe once a day to 21 degrees to get some heat into the place and generally, when we turn the heating back down to 19, the heating won't come on for hours, so this might confirm we have good insulation.

I tend to open the windows through the day, sometimes all of them sometimes just one at the front and one at the back to get some air through. They're not open wide, just on the first security locking catch.

Anybody else experienced this problem and how did you deal with it? (y)

ta muchly.
 
If it was built in 2004 it won't be lack of insulation that is the cause. Is it in an exposed location with sideways rain?

I have one of those laser thermometer things. They are great at finding cold spots. Also a few humidity dials to put in different rooms. That will tell you whether you have normal humidity levels.

If one room is surprisingly colder then check the radiator is big enough for the room and that it is getting fully hot. I had the same issue. The radiator was basically under sized and with the cold winds on that side of the building it was several degrees colder than it should have been. I also piled in more loft insulation in that corner to compensate for it. I also fitted a smart radiator valve so the heating would come on when that room got too cold.

I'd also check the windows aren't leaking, not sealing around the outside properly or not draining properly. Damp below windows can be a sign that the water isn't draining out.
 
Cheers both, food for thought there.

The one wall of our house faces west and is very exposed, the bedroom and living room outside walls are inside of this wall. Our living stays warm but it has 2 rads alhough the windows do get wet there too. I wouldn't say we get damps walls as such but our bedroom walls can sometimes feel wet in the cold weather.

I'll look into the laser thermometer and see what that reveals. The rad does get fully hot, I've bled it several times since we moved back but it seems alright now. It's quite a big room though and maybe not the biggest rad but I will look at a smart valve too.

I'm pretty sure the windows are sealing but we do have the vents at the top of them open at all times, on all our windows. I will check that though as well as drainage.

ta much.
 
Meaco dehumidifier.

We live in an old house with no trickle vents on the windows. Always condensation on the windows in winter, dehumidifier deals with the worst.

Surprising just how much water a dehumidifier collects, got ours mainly for the room we have to dry washing in during the winter.
Made a big difference and the washing dries nicely too, no more condensation running down the windows
 
Looking on another forum people say it is due to ventilation in the house.

We do get it on the windows in the bed rooms, also make sure when someone has shower the steam does not get into to rooms.
 
dehumidifier.

Yep, I agree.
We bought an Ebac when we had a static caravan quite a few years ago & it sorted the problem. (It actually still works after 10 yrs stored in the garage!)
Worth spending up to a couple of hundred £ to get a decent, higher capacity one imho
You can fit them to constantly drain, if you have somewhere suitable, rather than emptying them daily.

There are basically 2 types, Refrigerant (reckoned to be better at higher temps eg living areas) & Dessicant (possibly better in cooler areas eg conservatory, cellar etc)

Made a big difference and the washing dries nicely too,

I've heard of folk who use them instead of the usual `drier` (y)
 
saw a window condensation vacuum thing on TV earlier ... no idea of the price though
 
You can fit them to constantly drain, if you have somewhere suitable, rather than emptying them daily.

Ours has this facility, not really convenient to use though


I've heard of folk who use them instead of the usual `drier` (y)

Certainly effective, do have a tumble drier, but the dehumidifier on its "washing" setting does a good job
 
Thanks for the replies and ideas. We do have (an ancient) de-hum in the attic, I will have to dig it out, probably literally :LOL: and give it a try.

I did find an incorrectly fitted radiator valve on our bedroom rad last night, the collar was loose where it screws on to the top of the incoming pipe. I'm suprised it hasn't leaked so I got it just in time. I'm thinking a bigger rad in there might help too but I may get the cavity insulation on the exterior walls checked too.
 
we have 2 of them to be honest as we live in a very old large victorian terrace
get the newer style ones the not the old compressor ones.
 
Do you a tumble dryer, if so is it vented to the outside world or is it a condenser version? Our issues reduced a lot since our old condenser machine died and we replaced it with a new heat pump fitted version that spews less warm air into the room (we live in a flat so cannot vent to the outside).
 
How do you find the noise on those 2 guys? I would be looking at running one overnight. The one I have isn't scary loud but would keep you awake in a bedroom.
 
One of these will solve all your problems

https://xpress.nuaire.co.uk/product...QEdD7DM0nYWMvfp3A4AFoehip5FhothRoC62UQAvD_BwE

Don’t bother with a dehumidifier - we had two Ebac (which packed up) and a Mitsubishi- both were too loud to operate near bedrooms at night and had to be emptied nearly every day.

The Nuaire just works as condensation is caused by lack of ventilation. We do not have any condensation even when very cold outside.

Cost is similiar to a decent dehumidifier, but running costs are a lot less
 
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One of these will solve all your problems

https://xpress.nuaire.co.uk/product...QEdD7DM0nYWMvfp3A4AFoehip5FhothRoC62UQAvD_BwE

Don’t bother with a dehumidifier - we had two Ebac (which packed up) and a Mitsubishi- both were too loud to operate near bedrooms at night and had to be emptied nearly every day.

The Nuaire just works as condensation is caused by lack of ventilation. We do not have any condensation even when very cold outside.

Cost is similiar to a decent dehumidifier, but running costs are a lot less


Interesting. we'd looked at something like this before but they were very expensive at the time. Thanks for the link.
 
Can I ask do you dry washing inside the house e.g. on radiators in the winter and do you have an extractor fan for your bathroom. Reason I ask is that when we rented our house out the tenants complained about damp and mould. Turned out they were drying washing over radiators and weren't using the extractor fan in the bathroom because it used electricity !
 
We have an indoor bathroom - no window. Just an effective extractor fan which runs for about 90 seconds after the light is switched off (as well as all the time the light's on!) No condensation problems, even when we dry woollens and yoga mats over the railing along the landing and in the airing cupboard. House was built in the late '70s or early '80s, brick outer skin and lightweight block on the inside of the outside walls, with breeze blocks between us and next door and our garage. Tumble drier is in the garage and vents through to outside.
 
Can I ask do you dry washing inside the house e.g. on radiators in the winter and do you have an extractor fan for your bathroom. Reason I ask is that when we rented our house out the tenants complained about damp and mould. Turned out they were drying washing over radiators and weren't using the extractor fan in the bathroom because it used electricity !

Not anymore but up until a few years ago, we used to dry clothes on radiators. We have a tumble drier but that's in my workshop.

We do have a spa bath, that really sends the steam into the air. The bathroom is next to the master bedroom, which is the main problem room. We do run a bathroom fan but I think it could do with upgrading now, as well as having the window partially open unless it's baltic.
 
Yes occasional clothes such as socks on radiators, but mainly on clothes horse type thing
We have an extractor fan that is on when showers are taken, tumble dryer that vents outside and aforementioned dehumidifier for the washing in spare room
House is end of terrace Victorian cottage so do get a bit of damp on external walls, DPC then was a bit of slate if you were lucky.

When we last decorated our daughters and spare bedrooms we used rolls of thin polystyrene on the external walls before papering.
Have to be a bit careful not to have anything such as wardrobes touching the walls, apart from that alls fine

We always open the bathroom window after showers, airs and dries much better that way
 
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As posted by someone else Drimasters are excellent to sort out condensation, it's all about air circulation.
Can be cold in the winter though.
 
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As above, ventilation in the first instance. That said, if the house is cold you could use a thermal lining board on external walls to bump up the effective insulation.
 
Looks like the Nuaire thingmies are the best option. It's good marketing but they do seem very proven.

Best start saving. :LOL:
 
They're not open wide, just on the first security locking catch.
Slight hijack, now you're sorted : can you expand more on these? Ive got a bungalow and whenever I go out I go round and lock all the windows. Would be nice to be able to go out and leave one or two open but secure. Esp in summer.

Thanks
 
Lots of double glazed window locks have striker plates that look like "E"s, with the gap closest to the building being fully closed and the outer one being open a crack, meaning that the window can be locked while open a crack. BUT check with any interested insurance company - leaving a window open, even if it's otherwise locked MIGHT invalidate any policy. We're allowed to lock any windows not accessible from roofs or the ground in the slightly open position so that's 3 on the first floor - just enough to let a little air in.
 
As Nod says, exactly that. Check with your insurance though, it's all too easy to get a spade or similar in there and pop it open. Not that I have you understand :angelic: but I can't imagine it would be difficult.

Anyhoo, it's here, it's been christened 'Nellie' by my 6 year old Daughter, it does actually look quite like a blue elephant when assembled. Hopefully it won't turn white. :LOL:

DSCF5405tp.jpg
 
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As Nod says, exactly that. Check with your insurance though, it's all too easy to get a spade or similar in there and pop it open. Not that I have you understand :angelic: but I can't imagine it would be difficult.

Anyhoo, it's here, it's been christened 'Nellie' by my 6 year old Daughter, it does actually look quite like a blue elephant when assembled. Hopefully it won't turn white. :LOL:

View attachment 118794

I’ve bought one of these as we have the same issue in our house. Just got to get round to fitting it!
 
I’ve bought one of these as we have the same issue in our house. Just got to get round to fitting it!


I'd been hoping to get ours done least weekend, it was due for delivery last Thursday but the snows delayed it until Tuesday this week, so this one will be fitted this weekend. The biggest issue for me will be the hole in the ceiling and loft floor, we have sockets in the loft, so wiring it in isn't an issue.

Good luck with yours, let us know how you get on. (y)
 
Today was the day and it's all up and running although cutting a hole in the ceiling and floorboards was quite alarming. Now well see.

I'll get pics of the rest tomorrow.

IMG_0060 typ.jpg
 
I'd like to hear more about it when you've had it working for a few days - how well it works, and what difference it makes to how the house feels, ie do you need to turn up the heating given that you are loosing a fair bit of warm air.
I guess that to start the lack of dampness will be the main difference, but once the house has died out a bit you may notice a slight draught ?
Also, which version did you go for - I nearly bought the one that heated the incoming air a few years ago but as you (Dale) mentioned, they used to be very expensive...
 
I'd like to hear more about it when you've had it working for a few days - how well it works, and what difference it makes to how the house feels, ie do you need to turn up the heating given that you are loosing a fair bit of warm air.
I guess that to start the lack of dampness will be the main difference, but once the house has died out a bit you may notice a slight draught ?
Also, which version did you go for - I nearly bought the one that heated the incoming air a few years ago but as you (Dale) mentioned, they used to be very expensive...


The first thing that strikes me now it's been running overnight, is the hallway is cooler. It's not cold but definately a difference between it and the other rooms. The heating thermostat is in the hallway too and has been coming on a bit more, it's set to 19 degrees. This has resulted (so far) in our bedroom being warmer when it used to be the coldest room in the house and the worse for condensation. I had switched off the radiator in the hallway in an attempt to keep the rest of the bungalow warmer as it was confusing the thermostat, leaving the hallway warmer at the time than the rest of the house. I may now be able to switch that rad back on to balance things.

There is a slight draft, which is the intention but it is distributed along the ceiling by a disc type thing that sits on the diffuser.

Very little noise, it has 6 speeds and I currently have it running on 3 and it's not noticeable, even at 3 this morning when I was awake and the house is as quiet then as it ever gets. On setting 6, you hear it but it's lost against any background noise and it does blow a fair hoolie.

Pics later.

Went for this one, with no heater. We got the remote switch too which allows wall control to boost the unit instead of removing the diffuser plate in the ceiling. The heated ones are 400w, that's potentially a fair bit over a year

.
http://www.nuaire.co.uk/products/ca...sitive-input-ventilation-piv/dri-eco-link-hc/
 
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The first thing that strikes me now it's been running overnight, is the hallway is cooler. It's not cold but definately a difference between it and the other rooms. The heating thermostat is in the hallway too and has been coming on a bit more, it's set to 19 degrees. This has resulted (so far) in our bedroom being warmer when it used to be the coldest room in the house and the worse for condensation. I had switched off the radiator in the hallway in an attempt to keep the rest of the bungalow warmer as it was confusing the thermostat, leaving the hallway warmer at the time than the rest of the house. I may now be able to switch that rad back on to balance things.

There is a slight draft, which is the intention but it is distributed along the ceiling by a disc type thing that sits on the diffuser.

Very little noise, it has 6 speeds and I currently have it running on 3 and it's not noticeable, even at 3 this morning when I was awake and the house is as quiet then as it ever gets. On setting 6, you hear it but it's lost against any background noise and it does blow a fair hoolie.

Pics later.

Went for this one, with no heater. We got the remote switch too which allows wall control to boost the unit instead of removing the diffuser plate in the ceiling. The heated ones are 400w, that's potentially a fair bit over a year

.
http://www.nuaire.co.uk/products/ca...sitive-input-ventilation-piv/dri-eco-link-hc/
Brilliant, many thanks.
Yup, 400w is a fair bit over a year, but I assume it is adjustable and switchable, and I also assume that once the house is dry the whole thing can be run off a timer..
The idea of fresh dry air at little more cost than a new dehumidifier is so appealing, thanks again !
 
the whole thing can be run off a timer..

I don't think there would be any need for a timer. It can be set up in various heat recovery modes and it will switch off when certain limits are reached. It's such alow wattage though without the heater, about 11 watts on speed 4 that it may as well run continously. I'm still getting my head around the heat rcovery side of things and I may set it up that way if need be.

Here are some pics of the complete fitting.

Loft side. (clutter galore post job:whistle:). It came supplied with a fused junction box for hard wiring but I've removed the fuse (1amp) from that box and just used a normal plug with said fuse, as we have sockets in the loft.

1.jpg



The diffuser fitting in the ceiling. Note the controls (now set at 4) and the airdam I had to fit as it was too close to the wall due to logistics.

2.jpg


The finished job, with the diffuser disc, which spreads the flow now fitted.

3.jpg
 
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