Exif data is the technical info about the camera and lens and exposure settings etc you used to take the pic. It is tagged to the image file (unless you delete it, which sometimes gets done automatically with some software) and when we click on it here, with an Exif reader, we can see everything (usually). When you click the info button next to the LCD and the exposure settings etc come up, that is headline Exif data.
So not knowing what you used, which doesn't matter that much, here's where I think your problems are. You are shooting a difficult subject in terms of exposure, in difficult light - bright low sun. The sun is reflecting off white helmets and fairings which are acting pretty much like a mirror, and then there are much darker bits around the wheels and under the bike. In other words, the dynamic range is is too high for the sensor to accommodate fully, so you have to compromise a bit. Any sensor will suffer in the same way, they are all pretty similar in this respect and you have an extreme range there - the white bits are very bright indeed.
The other thing about moving subjects is that the exposure meter will be fooled as you pan around, according to the colour/brightness of the bikes and also whether they are set against a bright sky or shady grass etc. It shouldn't vary, because the light itself isn't actually changing, but the camera doesn't know that and while it will do its best all it is doing is giving its best guess. To keep the exposure constant, you need to switch to manual which locks the settings.
For this particular subject, use spot metering. This mode is only to be used with caution and when you know what you're doing (evaluative is generally much less easily fooled) but here you have a good target for spot metering, ie large areas of tarmac and grass, and you can use them as a reference later on to check that the light hasn't changed. So set spot on manual and take an exposure reading with tarmac filling the centre circle and zero the indicator in the viewfinder. Now check the LCD and see what it looks like. Check the histogram (good link on histograms here
http://www.sekonic.com/images/files/HistogramsLightmetersWorkTogether.pdf ) and make sure you have 'blinkies' on, which is the highlight over exposure warning enabled in the menu. This flashes on areas of the subject that are too bright and are blown to pure white and lost. Some of this is inevtitable on a subject like this, but then when a white helmet has the sun shinging on it, it
is white so that's okay - just make sure important stuff isn't blinking where you want to see some tone detail.
Now adjust the exposure (shutter speed, f/number or ISO) and take another pic until it is how you want it and since you are in manual, it will stay there so long as the light on the subject doesn't change. Note however that there will be an extreme diffence between bikes with the sun on them, and the shady side which obviously has no direct sun and will be much darker. Personally I would avoid that situation when the sun is low if you can, as to get that right you will need a lot more exposure to get the shady side right and the background will go very light.
Now go back to your target image, eg tarmac, and note the viewfinder readout. It will say maybe +2/3rds or something, but that doesn't matter. That's your reference and whenever you see a cloud go over etc or the sun dips further, go back to that target and if necessary adjust the controls again so it goes back to +2/3rds. That will keep your exposure constant, and constantly correct.
On the colours thing, your pics don't look too bad to me and generally auto white balacne makes a good fist of it in daylight even if it struggles in room light etc. Or you could try the pre-sets for cloudy/shade etc, or even do a custom white balnce but that shouldn't be necessary. However, if you shoot in Raw and post process you can bypass all of the camera's presettings (which are only applied to the JPEG file and tagged to the Raw) and adjust the colour etc in any which way you like. Another advanatge of Raw is that there is usually a bit more headroom on the highlights so you might be able to retain a little more detail there.
But if you want the camera to do it all, I would turn down the contrast in picture styles a bit in that situation, say -2. And maybe restore a little more punch by upping the saturation to +1. Give it a go, trial and error. And remember that these settings only apply to the JPEG output so if you shoot Raw they are irrelevant - with Raw pretty much the only thing that is applied to the image file is the basic exposure (it is Raw, uncooked).
General comment, for shooting bikes you need a long lens. Canon 70-300 IS is very good and affordable but with the full frame sensor of the 5D you will have a wider field of view than the 100D which has a smaller sensor. So if bikes at distance is one of your priorities, you should aspire to something like the Canon 100-400L, which can be had for under £900 used - check the for sale forum here, it is excellent.
Sorry this has turned into a bit of a lecture
