Close up pictures

[rleegabe]

I do watch repair so I like to get about 1 to 2 inches away from a watch movement. I have had good luck with a Canon Power shot I have but it eats batteries in no time and if I let it sit and then turn it on I get a notice to change batteries. I also have a Canon T6i and a Canon D450, but none of the lens I have get a good close up. I have 40mm, 35mm, 50mm prime lens, and 3 or 4 bigger zoom lens and none get even close. Can anyone recommend a point and shoot or compact camera used or new that's not to expensive that can get clean, detailed shots at about one to 2 inches? Don't care if they are terrible for pets,people or scenery I need close and detailed of my watch movements.

Took these with a Nikon Coolpix S570 I just picked up for $20.00 will work fine for what I'm doing!!!!!!!

 

[Snapsh0t]

You do not need a new camera, you just need to add something to make your existing lenses focus closer. Your 50mm is probably the best one to use so all you need is a set of extension tubes like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kenko-Tele...709495&sprefix=canon+ef+exten,aps,139&sr=8-19. These fit between the camera and the lens, enabling the lens to focus closer. Note that the depth of field will be very small so I'd advise using a tripod to hold the camera.

An alternative would be a dedicated macro lens from Canon, Sigma or Tamron but that would be a more expensive solution. You should find the tubes do all you need.

 

[Paulie-W]

I do watch repair so I like to get about 1 to 2 inches away from a watch movement. I have had good luck with a Canon Power shot I have but it eats batteries in no time and if I let it sit and then turn it on I get a notice to change batteries. I also have a Canon T6i and a Canon D450, but none of the lens I have get a good close up. I have 40mm, 35mm, 50mm prime lens, and 3 or 4 bigger zoom lens and none get even close. Can anyone recommend a point and shoot or compact camera used or new that's not to expensive that can get clean, detailed shots at about one to 2 inches? Don't care if they are terrible for pets,people or scenery I need close and detailed of my watch movements.

Have you considered a usb microscope?
Something like this maybe https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Microscope-Flexible-Observation-Magnification/dp/B00XNYXQHE

 

[f/1.2]

I do watch repair so I like to get about 1 to 2 inches away from a watch movement. I have had good luck with a Canon Power shot I have but it eats batteries in no time and if I let it sit and then turn it on I get a notice to change batteries. I also have a Canon T6i and a Canon D450, but none of the lens I have get a good close up. I have 40mm, 35mm, 50mm prime lens, and 3 or 4 bigger zoom lens and none get even close. Can anyone recommend a point and shoot or compact camera used or new that's not to expensive that can get clean, detailed shots at about one to 2 inches? Don't care if they are terrible for pets,people or scenery I need close and detailed of my watch movements.

You have a few options, none will get as close as you want but will get you closer.

Use your dslr and your 50mm lens with extension tubes.

Use your dslr and one of your lenses with a close up adaptor like the Raynox 250

Use your dslr and purchase a macro lens

You could also use all 3 at the same time.

 

[footman]

An even cheaper solution would be to buy a suitable reversing ring to enable close up shots. You would simply take your 50mm prime lens for example and attach the reversing ring to the front thread and then screw that into the camera body mount so effectively the lens is on back to front!
Sounds bonkers I know but that’s how I got started many years ago, there are numerous internet resources to guide you.

 

[Ed Sutton]

I'd look for a decent compact camera if that has worked well in the past. Something with 10 or more megapixels and a macro function. These are becoming rare as new cameras, but there should be plenty on the used market. Maybe a Canon G10?

Compacts are less hassle to use for photos of static subjects than DSLRs - not least because of the greater depth of field. Given sufficient light the results can be perfectly acceptable.

 

[TonyT]

I would go with the lens reversal as the cheapest method, but there are limitations..see the link

https://shutterstoppers.com/reverse-lens-technique

 

[TonyT]

also read

https://digital-photography-school.com/macro-photography-budget/

 

[TheBigYin]

okay... just did a test, st of extension tubes as linked, 50mm f1.8 lens and a canon 7Dmk1

is this close enough...

IMG_6264 by The Big Yin, on Flickr

that's uncropped, unsharpened, straight out of camera, scrap seiko movement to keep it in context for you...

 

[woof woof]

I don't know what final result the op wants but maybe a tripod or lighting set up could be worth looking at. I don't have any lighting and I'd use a macro lens and as depth could be minimal I'd need a smaller aperture and a longer exposure, so a tripod too.

Cropping could also be an option depending on the output size required.

This is a 50% crop from a Panasonic G1 (a quite old 12mp MFT camera) picture taken with a non macro lens which ended up 2728 wide which could be adequate for lots of uses. A 100% crop from that camera would be 1365 wide. A more modern higher resolution camera could give a larger picture. The posting process will kill some of the sharpness.

 

[rleegabe]

okay... just did a test, st of extension tubes as linked, 50mm f1.8 lens and a canon 7Dmk1

is this close enough... That would be perfect, Wish I had a Canon D7 super nice though.

IMG_6264 by The Big Yin, on Flickr

that's uncropped, unsharpened, straight out of camera, scrap seiko movement to keep it in context for you...

 

[rleegabe]

Very nice, I will look for that camera used of course, I am on limited income so can't AFFORD EXPENSIVE TOYS.

I don't know what final result the op wants but maybe a tripod or lighting set up could be worth looking at. I don't have any lighting and I'd use a macro lens and as depth could be minimal I'd need a smaller aperture and a longer exposure, so a tripod too.

Cropping could also be an option depending on the output size required.

This is a 50% crop from a Panasonic G1 (a quite old 12mp MFT camera) picture taken with a non macro lens which ended up 2728 wide which could be adequate for lots of uses. A 100% crop from that camera would be 1365 wide. A more modern higher resolution camera could give a larger picture. The posting process will kill some of the sharpness.

 

[Snapsh0t]

NO!! You do not need that camera (or any other) as it's functionally the same as the Canons you have. woof woof was just trying to illustrate the possibility of cropping the image to achieve your aims. All you need is to learn how to use the cameras you have. The Big Yin has illustrated how extension tubes as I recommended will get you very close and you've quoted his posted without adding to it.

 

[rleegabe]

Good info on this site, thanks !!!!!!!!

I would go with the lens reversal as the cheapest method, but there are limitations..see the link

https://shutterstoppers.com/reverse-lens-technique

 

[rleegabe]

Just bought extension tubes and will try.

NO!! You do not need that camera (or any other) as it's functionally the same as the Canons you have. woof woof was just trying to illustrate the possibility of cropping the image to achieve your aims. All you need is to learn how to use the cameras you have. The Big Yin has illustrated how extension tubes as I recommended will get you very close and you've quoted his posted without adding to it.

 

[TheBigYin]

to be honest, you'd get nearly the same result with a 450D - i originally dug my old 450D out to take the demo pic for you, but all the batteries i had were dead, not having been used for a couple of years. But honestly - it's the lens that'll make the difference - the only difference with a more modern camera is that the low light performance is gonna be better with a modern camera - which IS an issue if you're under 2" away from the subject, unless you get a "ringflash" or similar - OR - be prepared for 20-30 second exposures to keep ISO down...

 

[woof woof]

NO!! You do not need that camera (or any other) as it's functionally the same as the Canons you have. woof woof was just trying to illustrate the possibility of cropping the image to achieve your aims. All you need is to learn how to use the cameras you have. The Big Yin has illustrated how extension tubes as I recommended will get you very close and you've quoted his posted without adding to it.

Yes, that's all I was doing.

Very nice, I will look for that camera used of course, I am on limited income so can't AFFORD EXPENSIVE TOYS.

Just to be clear. I wasn't recommending you buy a Panasonic G1 as it's a very old camera now. My point was rather that cropping a picture may be an option as you could well end up with a picture that's easily big enough for many uses.

 

[rleegabe]

Took some of you guys advice and bought some tube extenders for my Canon T6i, these were taken with a 40mm Prime lens on a 21mm tube extender. Tried the 13mm tube and the 31mm tube but the 21mm tube worked best on all the lens. Itried 40mm,35mm,50mm,and a 18-55mm. The 40mm prime lens with the 21mm tube worked the best for all around close up shots.​

I can get these with my Canon Powershot SX150 compact and they are good enough for my purpose but after just these shots I got a low battery warning with new batteries. It takes AA batteries so I'm looking for a different camera with at least this quality close up that has Lithium batteries.Again I am on a set income per month so can't afford high dollar equipment.

 

[rleegabe]

I like this, will explore for sure !!!!!!!!!!!!

Have you considered a usb microscope?
Something like this maybe https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Microscope-Flexible-Observation-Magnification/dp/B00XNYXQHE

 

[Dangerous]

I like this, will explore for sure !!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a usb microscope camera for really close up images.
The first image is of a five pence piece zoomed out as far as it will go, The second is zoomed in almost to maximum zoom of the same 5p but this time it only shows part of the P of pence.



Is this the level of closeup you want?

There are less powerful (and more powerful) usb cameras than mine so you may need 2, one for real close up and one for a close up of the whole watch. Mine needs a panorama of about 25 images to fully cover a 10 mm diameter coin.

If you don't need that close a fairly cheap option would be a set of close up lenses

although extension tubes are usually better and not too expensive depending on make.

 

[Box Brownie]

@rleegabe

If you gave an indication of just how much you were able/willing to spend on accessories or an alternate lens that might help inform the suggestions of what to consider???

 

[hunnymonster]

It takes AA batteries ...

Rechargeable batteries?

 

[Dangerous]

@rleegabe

If you gave an indication of just how much you were able/willing to spend on accessories or an alternate lens that might help inform the suggestions of what to consider???

That is the problem isn't it, one person's spend limit is totally different to another's.

 

[stryvya]

Have a look at the Olympus TG-6, a small compact Camera with Focus Stacking and Microscope Modes.

Can be found for around £400 if careful shopping.

 

[rleegabe]

Took some of you guys advice and bought some tube extenders for my Canon T6i, these were taken with a 40mm Prime lens on a 21mm tube extender. Tried the 13mm tube and the 31mm tube but the 21mm tube worked best on all the lens. Itried 40mm,35mm,50mm,and a 18-55mm. The 40mm prime lens with the 21mm tube worked the best for all around close up shots.​

I do watch repair so I like to get about 1 to 2 inches away from a watch movement. I have had good luck with a Canon Power shot I have but it eats batteries in no time and if I let it sit and then turn it on I get a notice to change batteries. I also have a Canon T6i and a Canon D450, but none of the lens I have get a good close up. I have 40mm, 35mm, 50mm prime lens, and 3 or 4 bigger zoom lens and none get even close. Can anyone recommend a point and shoot or compact camera used or new that's not to expensive that can get clean, detailed shots at about one to 2 inches? Don't care if they are terrible for pets,people or scenery I need close and detailed of my watch movements.

Took these with a Nikon Coolpix S570 I just picked up for $20.00 will work fine for what I'm doing!!!!!!!

 

[rleegabe]

Have a look at the Olympus TG-6, a small compact Camera with Focus Stacking and Microscope Modes.

Can be found for around £400 if careful shopping.

Have a look at the Olympus TG-6, a small compact Camera with Focus Stacking and Microscope Modes.

Can be found for around £400 if careful shopping.

I did in fact look at the Olympus TG-6 and it looks like a great camera and is highly regarded for close up macro abilities.

 

[TheBigYin]

Took some of you guys advice and bought some tube extenders for my Canon T6i, these were taken with a 40mm Prime lens on a 21mm tube extender. Tried the 13mm tube and the 31mm tube but the 21mm tube worked best on all the lens. Itried 40mm,35mm,50mm,and a 18-55mm. The 40mm prime lens with the 21mm tube worked the best for all around close up shots.

Well, for caseback record shots thats pretty much nailed it - only thing now is getting consistent lighting I guess, looking at the images linked...

I'm not really a "flash macro" guy, but I think that this might be a pretty good instance for using a "ringflash" - i'm well out of touch with what's available these days, as my macro shooting was mainly 10 years ago, and the "budget end" flash kit has undoubtedly come along quite a bit since then. Flash has obvious advantages in that it'll help with image shake - no more putting the camera on 10 second shutter delay, pressing the button and stepping back a couple of paces so you dont breathe on the hairspring and make it move... and of course there's only that 1/125th of a second with the shutter open, rather than a couple of seconds if you're using ambient light with a bloody big camera over the caseback blocking things. A good flash might also allow you to shoot movements showing the escapement and balance wheel, even if the movement is running... (yes, I noticed that all the above shots used the winder weight to cover the balance wheel) After all, the balance wheel and escapement is really the heart of the watch, and a major point of interest in anything more than "record shots" - saying you've put a 7s36, Valjoux 7750 or a NH35a - or indeed if you need to justify that you've put a original restored Venus 175 in there rather than just slapping a Seagull ST19 in...

 

[Dangerous]

Well, for caseback record shots thats pretty much nailed it - only thing now is getting consistent lighting I guess, looking at the images linked...

I'm not really a "flash macro" guy, but I think that this might be a pretty good instance for using a "ringflash" - i'm well out of touch with what's available these days, as my macro shooting was mainly 10 years ago, and the "budget end" flash kit has undoubtedly come along quite a bit since then. Flash has obvious advantages in that it'll help with image shake - no more putting the camera on 10 second shutter delay, pressing the button and stepping back a couple of paces so you dont breathe on the hairspring and make it move... and of course there's only that 1/125th of a second with the shutter open, rather than a couple of seconds if you're using ambient light with a bloody big camera over the caseback blocking things. A good flash might also allow you to shoot movements showing the escapement and balance wheel, even if the movement is running... (yes, I noticed that all the above shots used the winder weight to cover the balance wheel) After all, the balance wheel and escapement is really the heart of the watch, and a major point of interest in anything more than "record shots" - saying you've put a 7s36, Valjoux 7750 or a NH35a - or indeed if you need to justify that you've put a original restored Venus 175 in there rather than just slapping a Seagull ST19 in...

I bought one of the cheap flash ring systems. It doesn't have TTL control and to be honest for what I use it for the flash is pretty useless but I can have it on constant light and that is ideal. It's heavy on batteries especially as I forget to turn it off between sessions so I can run a set down in a day. I purchased a dummy battery set with psu so I can run it from the mains as I only use it indoors. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Version-RF...qid=1588845228&sprefix=ring+fl,aps,141&sr=8-5

Might be worth you looking at.