Circular or Linear

J

jmann

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Jon
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Hi folks

Trying to decide if i should get a linear, or polarising filter.

I'm planning on shooting a lot of watersports shots in the next few months (sailing, windsurfing, wakeboarding/waterskiing)

Basically....which do people think would be better....or is there another filter/technique i should be using to help glare and make the most of my images?!

Also, and ideas on settings.......to catch pin-sharp action i imagine i'll be using 1/250th, what sort of aperture as it will be in bright sunlight....?! Maybe f4.5 with iso 100?!

Cheers
 
jmann said:
Hi folks

Trying to decide if i should get a linear, or polarising filter.

I'm planning on shooting a lot of watersports shots in the next few months (sailing, windsurfing, wakeboarding/waterskiing)

Basically....which do people think would be better....or is there another filter/technique i should be using to help glare and make the most of my images?!

Also, and ideas on settings.......to catch pin-sharp action i imagine i'll be using 1/250th, what sort of aperture as it will be in bright sunlight....?! Maybe f4.5 with iso 100?!

Cheers
Click to expand...

Erm I'd say more like f/8 at ISO 100. Maybe even higher. I often use ISO 400 so I can put my aperture up, and my shutter speed right up on bright days. In fact, my camera is pretty much locked into ISO 400 for it allows you to get excellent speeds on bright days, and allows good low light grain-free dark performance.
 
If your using a dslr im pretty sure it wont meter correctly through a linear polariser.
 
it's a fuji s200exr.....so bridge....so i'm not sure if it would or wouldnt?!
 
i meant dslr as in digital,

from luminous landscape

Circular Vs. Linear Polarizers
There are two types of polarizing filters available — linear or circular. Linear polarizers are more effective and less expensive than circular ones. But circular polarizers are needed with just about any camera that has a through-the-lens metering system, or autofocus.

The reason for this is that both of these systems use semi-silvered mirrors to siphon off some of the light coming though the lens. If that light is linearly polarized it renders either the metering or the autofocus ineffective. This means that you're going to have to buy circular polarizers unless you're shooting with a pre-1970's camera, or a view camera.
 
I was always under the impression that if a camera had TTL (through the lens) metering then it would - but hey perhaps I'm wrong. (my OLD digital bridge had TTL metering) TBH, I rarely use the exposure meter anyway, I think it's garbage. going by what my camera says is a 'correct' exposure would leave me with blown out skies if I did listen to it, and since I use fully manual, I DECIDE what my camera does.
 
brilliant! cheers euan!

Any other filters you can think of for bright sunlight?
 
im not big on filters other than cp-l's so i'll bow out now.
 
A graduated filter would assist with under/over exposure regarding contrast between sky, foreground, etc... e.g. the B+W 501 or 502 Neutral Density (ND) filters... They're more akin for use in landscape photography, unsure if they'd have a useful application on 'action' shots though! ? I use a circular polarising (CPL) filter when needed.
 
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