Cheap Chinese Flashgun??? Grrr!!

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Hi, I am confused, I am on the look-out for a Nikon flash, I have one but the connection is plastic, I have seen a few that are Nikon/Canon suited but it only has the one pin connection, am worried about the different voltages etc, can anyone recommend a half decent one for both my D7000 and Fuji S2 pro.

Ideally one from China, like thatnikonguy is using.. any ideas?

Thanks :)
 
If you want one suitable for both cameras then I am fairly sure you are looking at a manual flash, not TTL. - Matt (ThatNikonGuy) uses Yongnuo YN-560 as his basic strobist flash. The version ii flash is about £45 now and is tremendous value for money.
 
The dedicated Nikon flashes will work in TTL mode on the s2 Pro but not the more advanced TTL modes e.g.iTTL. still better than nothing and a dedicated will work fully with your D7000 so going with a full manual only (cheap or not)would seem a waste of money really. Some of the Nikon dedicated Yongnuos with basic TTL are very keenly priced.
 
The dedicated Nikon flashes will work in TTL mode on the s2 Pro but not the more advanced TTL modes e.g.iTTL. still better than nothing and a dedicated will work fully with your D7000 so going with a full manual only (cheap or not)would seem a waste of money really. Some of the Nikon dedicated Yongnuos with basic TTL are very keenly priced.

Hi, the problem I have found is a lot have the single pin connection and are designed for Nikon and Canon, so am unsure which one to go for?
 
If you want one suitable for both cameras then I am fairly sure you are looking at a manual flash, not TTL. - Matt (ThatNikonGuy) uses Yongnuo YN-560 as his basic strobist flash. The version ii flash is about £45 now and is tremendous value for money.

Thanks, so Matt never uses it on the actual camera?
 
Hi, the problem I have found is a lot have the single pin connection and are designed for Nikon and Canon, so am unsure which one to go for?

I would suggest any flash with only a single pin is actually a "dumb" flash and not dedicated or designed for any specific manufacturer. The most prevalent of these currently on sale are the cheap Yongnuo flashes with no automation at all, it's basically designed more as a slave unit than a normal flash.
 
I would suggest any flash with only a single pin is actually a "dumb" flash and not dedicated or designed for any specific manufacturer. The most prevalent of these currently on sale are the cheap Yongnuo flashes with no automation at all, it's basically designed more as a slave unit than a normal flash.

Thanks, thats exactly what I have been thinking and I am wondering if the actual Nikon Mount versions actually are the right voltage or not, any ideas? :)
 
I have a yongnuo yn468 ii add and that has the correct pins for TTL!

A list can be found here
 
Thanks, so Matt never uses it on the actual camera?

He does not do a whole lot of on Camera flash, but when he does he uses a SB-700 or SC-900.

There is nothing wrong with using a manual flash on camera, a lot of people Matt included will argue that it is better to use manual anyway. He rarely uses TTL which is the same for most professionals.

Personally I am not a professional but am getting into strobist photography. I have a YN-467 (TTL) and a TN-560ii. Generally I grab the 467 for use on camera but more often than not, if I have time to plan my shot I will use it in manual. I would not necessarily recommend the 467 as I find it underpowered at times.
 
I have a yongnuo yn468 ii add and that has the correct pins for TTL!

A list can be found here

Thanks for your reply, I am concerned about the voltage's, also you mention the correct pins, now I doubt you mean that Canon flash units will work on Nikon, I have been told before you need the correct pins for each camera so am concerned, or is it that you only need to worry about the center pin?
 
He does not do a whole lot of on Camera flash, but when he does he uses a SB-700 or SC-900.

There is nothing wrong with using a manual flash on camera, a lot of people Matt included will argue that it is better to use manual anyway. He rarely uses TTL which is the same for most professionals.

Personally I am not a professional but am getting into strobist photography. I have a YN-467 (TTL) and a TN-560ii. Generally I grab the 467 for use on camera but more often than not, if I have time to plan my shot I will use it in manual. I would not necessarily recommend the 467 as I find it underpowered at times.

Hi there, I had a job to find a flash unit based on TN-560 ii, I assume (not always a good thing) you mean YN-560 ii? - The YN560 2 is center pin so its probally not all that good really, - I gave my YN-567 away as I found it not very good, so I think i shall await some more replies and go for the YN-486.

Damn this is so confusing, if only my metz flash didnt have a platic connection and instead a metal I would not be bothering.
 
Sorry I meant YN not TN as you worked out. I would forget about pins and voltages for now and work out if you want TTL (sort of automatic) or Manual. The link to speedlights.net is very out of date and does not included newer units like the Yongnuo YN-565 EX. Reviews here - http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-565EX-Speedlite-Flash-Nikon/product-reviews/B006R6TUJI

I have not heard of the YN-486 I assume you mean YN-468. i am also not sure why you will wait for a few more replies and then get the YN-486, why wait for the replies or if you have already decided, why post the question?

If you are happy with the Metz - just use it until it breaks, plenty of people have a plastic foot without breaking it.
 
I agree completely with Simon here, you are confused because you dont have enough knowledge of flash basics and seem to be fixating on the fact you are not content with your current flash. Get on to google and read read and read again about all aspects of flash photography because at the moment your queries are jumping all over the place ( metal foot, single pin / multi pin, voltages ..... Etc) with no clear objective. I am not trying to be harsh but i feel you may be about to spend money on something that wont improve your photography one bit and you are going to be left even more disillusioned.
As for the original enquiry 'plastic foot connector' be aware that many flashguns have plastic feet and unless you are very rough on your gear this wont present an issue. For instance the canon 580ex mk 1 has a plastic foot and is used by pros over the world.
 
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Hi, thanks again for your replies, the reason's I have was because ages a go someone said only use the correct flash ie with the right pins because of voltage etc, and also because some of the first replies mentions this issue too, I had a spare a Jessops one, it fell off the table and snapped and my previous setup was a Canon and it had a metal foot, IMO it seems more sturdier. - :) Thanks and Im sorry if this is going out of controlm but strobism is new to me.
 
The Metz flashgun is also going to have better build quality than any Yongnuo, the Yongnuo guns have only one plus point, their cheapness.
 
Voltage is really only an issuecwith older flashguns designed for film cameras. If it says its for your camera model in the description you can be sure it will be okay. If you want to buy an old flash then always check. Lots of info on google. Early Canons are very intolerant to high voltages and can be damaged by anything over 6v !

Here is a link to a brilliant article by our very own Cowasaki. Goog reading.

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/archive/index.php/t-171761.html
 
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Unfortunately, there is more mythology and paranoia available on this subject than actual facts.


Steve.
 
Early Canons are very intolerant to high voltages and can be damaged by anything over 6v !

Quote edited for clarity.

Chuck Westfall is a director at Canon USA.

From Tech Tips by Chuck Westfall (Canon’s director of media and consumer relations)

(Question posed by user):
I recently posted a question regarding the safe maximum sync voltage for an EOS 30D.

You addressed the safe sync voltage for a number of models, including the 20D, but I was wondering where I might be able to find published data on the safe sync voltages for the entire range of Canon cameras (or maybe just the 30D, as that's the body I'm using now).

(Answer from Chuck Westfall)
It's likely you'll never see an official list of all Canon SLRs according to this specification, because Canon Inc. (our parent company in Japan) simply doesn't do things like that.

I've been with Canon USA since 1982, so I'm in a pretty good position to know Canon Inc.'s habits.

However, I'll be happy to provide you with my unofficial list:

Canon Digital SLRs safe for TCV up to 250 volts:
EOS-1D Mark II N, EOS-1D Mark II, EOS-1Ds Mark II, EOS-1D, EOS-1Ds
EOS 30D, 20D, 5D
EOS Digital Rebel XTi, XT (400D/350D)
EOS D6000/D2000, Kodak DCS560/DCS520 (circa 1998)
EOS-DCS series (circa 1995)

Canon Digital SLRs safe for TCV up to 6 volts:
EOS 10D, D60, D30
EOS Digital Rebel (300D)

Canon 35mm SLRs safe for TCV up to 250 volts:
EOS-1V, EOS-1N, EOS-1, EOS 3

Canon 35mm and IX240 SLRs safe for TCV up to 6 volts:
EOS 650, 620, 630, RT
EOS 850, 750, 700
EOS Rebel Series
EOS Elan Series
EOS 10s, A2E, A2
EOS IX, IX Lite
T90
 
He wasn't referring to you or your query Lawrie, he was referring to the question of voltages with old flashguns on newer bodies. Confusion about which, is well illustrated by Dave's quote from another site which had as part of its discussion on the subject the words from an official at Canon itself.

The upshot is don't worry too much about voltages nor would I be replacing a flash simply because it has a plastic foot :thinking: . What model Metz is it ?
 
The reasons for my mythology and paranoia comment:

1. The best way to fire a flash is to use a thyristor (or an opto coupled thyristor) These are rated in the hundreds of volts. Even the one in my cheap Cactus radio trigger is rated at 400 volts and I can't find any rated at less than that. I suspect that most cameras have a similar component and that the manufacturers are specifying up to 250 volts to give them a large margin for error.

2. I know of know discrete semi conductor devices which will work perfectly at 6 volts but will be destroyed at 7 or 10 or 15... etc. And camera designers don't know of any either. Any camera designer with any sense would want to make his product safe when being used with the variety of flashes which already exist rather than make it stop working if used with them. Therefore I don't believe the 6 volt figure which many quote is anything to do with the design of the circuit.

3. On all hot shoes now are many contacts. The extra contacts surrounding the centre pin are for communication between the flash and the camera. It is likely that the circuit connected to these can be destroyed by high voltages. I think the warning about using a higher than 6 volt flash on a Canon is a worry about sliding on a fully charged flash and having the centre contact momentarily touch one of the communication pins which could cause damage. This theory is backed up by the claims that you can use a high voltage flash on the camera's PC sync socket but not the hot shoe. In reality they will either have the same flash trigger circuit or even be connected together.

4. It's great for the marketing people if this myth is perpetuated as it allows them to sell more stuff to gullible customers!


Steve.
 
Thank-you for explaining people, I am a damaged person so always think people are being nasty towards me. :(
 
I forgot to say, but as Gary pointed out, this was not aimed at you but was a more general comment on the way information on the internet is repeated so often that people think it is fact.


Steve.
 
I forgot to say, but as Gary pointed out, this was not aimed at you but was a more general comment on the way information on the internet is repeated so often that people think it is fact.


Steve.

- Thanks, I have had too much sleep recently and have been really moody, and its sooo cold down here, thanks everyone for your patience, I have at the moment decided to keep my current flash as it was a silly idea to change the flash or even have an extra one just because of the metal foot, you see I picked up a Jessops Flash for Nikon DSLR from the second hand shop for £20.00 and the plastic plate snapped off instantly, I guess it could have already been faulty when I picked it up hence the price, anyways its currently stuck on a light stand and works fine for off camera flash, I shall wait and see what comes on the sites as hopefully pick up sdomething second hand. So a big thanks to everyone who has responded to me. :)
 
He wasn't referring to you or your query Lawrie, he was referring to the question of voltages with old flashguns on newer bodies. Confusion about which, is well illustrated by Dave's quote from another site which had as part of its discussion on the subject the words from an official at Canon itself.

The upshot is don't worry too much about voltages nor would I be replacing a flash simply because it has a plastic foot :thinking: . What model Metz is it ?

Its the Metz AF - 1 digital
 
Why the downer on Yongnuo guns? Most people seem to be very happy with them. Build wise there seems little difference between them and the more expensive brands they are competing with.

Anyway a useful site for flashes: http://speedlights.net/2011/08/28/yongnuo-yn-565-ex-flash-review/

No downer, just reality. While they are good for their price, they are still cheaply made in an unknown factory or factories in China with very little QC.

Their major plus point is their cheapness, not their build quality or quality of materials, nor do I have as much confidence in their components as I would with a Metz or Nissin, or any of the manufacturers own flashes.

I don't think I've read a Yongnuo review (or a review of any of the similar clones on eBay) without some sort of caveat about build quality or flash quality.
 
The earlier Yongnuo flashes certainly had some quality issues, but from what I gather the last year or two has seen a massive improvement. I certainly have had no issue with my two units. I do however have a TTL sync cable that the camera refuses to recognise as have a flash attached, although it will fire the flash. I am not sure if this is user error or a dodgy cable.

Yongnuo have a great name for having great value for money. I will be buying more flash units from them. I am just waiting for the 560III to come back into stock.
 
The earlier Yongnuo flashes certainly had some quality issues, but from what I gather the last year or two has seen a massive improvement. I certainly have had no issue with my two units. I do however have a TTL sync cable that the camera refuses to recognise as have a flash attached, although it will fire the flash. I am not sure if this is user error or a dodgy cable.

Yongnuo have a great name for having great value for money. I will be buying more flash units from them. I am just waiting for the 560III to come back into stock.

I appreciate your input, thanks
 
The earlier Yongnuo flashes certainly had some quality issues, but from what I gather the last year or two has seen a massive improvement. I certainly have had no issue with my two units. I do however have a TTL sync cable that the camera refuses to recognise as have a flash attached, although it will fire the flash. I am not sure if this is user error or a dodgy cable.

Yongnuo have a great name for having great value for money. I will be buying more flash units from them. I am just waiting for the 560III to come back into stock.

- Thanks once again, but I've decided to keep what I have, I mean why buy a decent camera to put it all at risk for a cheap flash.
 
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