Car dealerships and repairs

gman said:
Allow me to present you with Exhibit "AUDI" :oops: :$


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I’d guess that’s a US quote judging by the date format and the “shop charges”, so that’ll probably be in $ US. Still an outrageous amount though.

We actually had an Audi Q5 for seven years, I part-ex’d it last year. It was very reliable and I did nearly 70k miles in it without spending anything more than regular servicing (through a local garage), one set of tyres and having the brake pads changed once. It was starting to develop some minor faults though, so that was one reason to move it on.
 
Main dealer hourly rate is about 3x (if not more) what the specialist charges. Still not cheap but worth it IMO!
 
boogie man said:
I’d guess that’s a US quote judging by the date format and the “shop charges”, so that’ll probably be in $ US. Still an outrageous amount though.

We actually had an Audi Q5 for seven years, I part-ex’d it last year. It was very reliable and I did nearly 70k miles in it without spending anything more than regular servicing (through a local garage), one set of tyres and having the brake pads changed once. It was starting to develop some minor faults though, so that was one reason to move it on.
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Yeah I believe it is and I think over there they do charge considerably more at the AUDI dealers than they do here, although even here it's still crazy at the main dealers (which is why I avoid them).

There's a front bush that commonly goes on my car model, but I decided to replace the whole front suspension with a heavy duty one not just because of our roads but also there's a dreaded pinch bolt that corrodes due to galvanic corrosion, yep, it's not just Jaguar who like to mix steel and aluminium! lol, so I didn't want to have to revisit it. I quickly discovered that AUDI don't want the general public working on their cars because:
  • there's a hex size used that doesn't come in the regular hex key kits, so I had to buy one
  • there's also triple square bolts used so I had to buy a set of triple square sockets
  • a right angle air ratchet for the pinch bolt
  • for the air filter you need extra long torx drivers
  • to fill the DSG transmission you need to create a tubing system that can run through the engine bay and not melt because the engine has to be running...

Arrrrrgh the list goes on! lol
 
IIRC a fair few auto and DSG 'boxes need the oil/fluid to be changed by "dialysis" with the system running.
 
Put a leased MG4 in for service last week at the dealer. They said, needs rear brake discs replacing (30% wear and pitted), a new tyre (on 2.5mm) and the under tray repairing, total cost £980 inc vat.

Leasing company said Go forth sirs and multiply!
 
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I know that in America at Ford, Lincoln and Mercury dealers they charge more for the Lincolns and slightly more for the Mercurys that they do for the Fords.
But its the same brand and same parts in reality, all in the same workshop and fixed by the same techs.
 
How can people afford to pay £140 per hour, its no wonder we don't have a lot of work , people just cant afford it any longer.
 
Nod said:
IIRC a fair few auto and DSG 'boxes need the oil/fluid to be changed by "dialysis" with the system running.
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I'm not sure to be honest, but the DSG in mine gets a full drain, then the new stuff goes in, fill plug in the brought up to a specific temp before filling up further until it pours out. You have to work through the gears as well whilst doing it, which makes doing it with a two post lift challenging as you can't get the door open properly!

But this is one of those jobs I would only trust to myself because there's no way to prove a garage has done it, until it breaks. It has to be done religiously every 40k miles and the fluid is not cheap. :(
 
gman said:
I'm not sure to be honest, but the DSG in mine gets a full drain, then the new stuff goes in, fill plug in the brought up to a specific temp before filling up further until it pours out. You have to work through the gears as well whilst doing it, which makes doing it with a two post lift challenging as you can't get the door open properly!

But this is one of those jobs I would only trust to myself because there's no way to prove a garage has done it, until it breaks. It has to be done religiously every 40k miles and the fluid is not cheap. :(
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Don’t forget to do the Haldex as well. :D
 
LeeRatters said:
I know £140 isn't pure 'profit' or 'earnings', but if it was I'd only work one day a week :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
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I only work four days a week, 3 day weekend every week, I have exactly 365 days to go, take away every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Then holidays and that cuts the 365 down so it wont be long.
 
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f/2.8 said:
Don’t forget to do the Haldex as well. :D
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Haldex? Torsen baby. :cool:

It's a 40/60 split (front/left) as standard but it can send 65% of torque to the front or 85% to the rear if demanded without any esp intervention. It's a pretty impressive system, incredible grip and traction, although I only get about 15k out of my tyres.

The fluid change I'm talking about is an ATF type specifically designed for the dual clutch section (which includes the mechatronics). The gearbox, centre diff and front diff unit share a hypoid gear oil with a special additive for the centre diff. They are both separated by a double seal and a drain port. The gearoil is claimed to be sealed for life, but I did mine and the rear diff at 70k.
 
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gman said:
Haldex? Torsen baby. :cool:

It's a 40/60 split (front/left) as standard but it can send 65% of torque to the front or 85% to the rear if demanded without any esp intervention. It's a pretty impressive system, incredible grip and traction, although I only get about 15k out of my tyres.

The fluid change I'm talking about is an ATF type specifically designed for the dual clutch section (which includes the mechatronics). The gearbox, centre diff and front diff unit share a hypoid gear oil with a special additive for the centre diff. They are both separated by a double seal and a drain port. The gearoil is claimed to be sealed for life, but I did mine and the rear diff at 70k.
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That's more than I get out of the Escort tyres :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
Good, you have achieved a dream or what is a dream for many many people, what is the spec of it, any photographs?
 
I had a couple of Mk 1 and a Mk 2 as well as a Mk 3
 
Oldbones said:
How can people afford to pay £140 per hour, its no wonder we don't have a lot of work , people just cant afford it any longer.
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£140 is cheap for main dealer mechanics!

Thank the pantheon that the specialist I use is closer to 1/2 that.
 
Oldbones said:
How can people afford to pay £140 per hour, its no wonder we don't have a lot of work , people just cant afford it any longer.
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That is seriously cheap.

Average dealer price here is about £200 an hour. £250-300 for premium brands.

Sports/Modified specialist is about £250-£300 an hour.

Specialist independent is about £150 an hour.

Back street garage is about £80-100 an hour.

Sellers market I guess, next to impossible to get booked in anywhere without 3-4 weeks notice. My local independent VAG specialist it is 6-8 weeks.

gman said:
Haldex? Torsen baby. :cool:

It's a 40/60 split (front/left) as standard but it can send 65% of torque to the front or 85% to the rear if demanded without any esp intervention. It's a pretty impressive system, incredible grip and traction, although I only get about 15k out of my tyres.

The fluid change I'm talking about is an ATF type specifically designed for the dual clutch section (which includes the mechatronics). The gearbox, centre diff and front diff unit share a hypoid gear oil with a special additive for the centre diff. They are both separated by a double seal and a drain port. The gearoil is claimed to be sealed for life, but I did mine and the rear diff at 70k.
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Wish my tyres would last that long. Even PS4's only last about 10-12k miles, but launch control :cool:

Yeah always ignore any fluid change that says lifetime especially gearbox oil.
 
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Nod said:
£140 is cheap for main dealer mechanics!

Thank the pantheon that the specialist I use is closer to 1/2 that.
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I live in the NE of Scotland, Aberdeen is the closet city, there has been a bit of a down turn in the oil here and the city is looking the poorer for it.
What with inflation and the loss of disposable income for many, life is becoming harder, as it may well be in other town and citys.
Years ago it was a case of just fix it from customers, not now, they will take the car to quick fit or independents who charge a lot less.
 
A few weeks ago a workman came and did a little job for us. When he told me the price I actually laughed and he thought I thought it was too much. It wasn't and I said he'd done a very good job at a very reasonable price and I was very happy. I actually couldn't think of a price I'd charge to do the same job.

£140 an hour is IMO ok. There's no way I'd charge anything like that. Put a zero on the end and I still wouldn't.
 
mj4456 said:
I have a 2L Honda sports ragtop, 5k and the rears are done, 10k on the fronts, One of us is doing something wrong. :ROFLMAO:
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I'm guessing it's that LSD on your S2000 that could be contributing to some extra wear? But still, for a light car that's some heavy tyre wear. What tyres do you use, they must be pretty soft rubber?
 
gman said:
I'm guessing it's that LSD on your S2000 that could be contributing to some extra wear? But still, for a light car that's some heavy tyre wear. What tyres do you use, they must be pretty soft rubber?
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I would imagine thon car does a lot of circles :cool:
 
I usually use Michelin pilots in whatever is the latest edition, Avons on at the mo cause they were on a spare set of wheels I picked up and the oe need a refurb. Car does about 6k a year max but when it’s out it gets driven hard but donuts are for eating only, although it does hold the line on corners very well, much due wife’s annoyance, she doesn’t have a steering wheel to hang on to. :ROFLMAO:
 
mj4456 said:
I usually use Michelin pilots in whatever is the latest edition, Avons on at the mo cause they were on a spare set of wheels I picked up and the oe need a refurb. Car does about 6k a year max but when it’s out it gets driven hard but donuts are for eating only, although it does hold the line on corners very well, much due wife’s annoyance, she doesn’t have a steering wheel to hang on to. :ROFLMAO:
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I've been tempted many times to put on the the Pilot Sports, but they are always crazy expensive on my car.

Goodyear Eagles, the 3's J spec were nice on the Jag, very quiet but they wore fast. Replaced with Eagle 5's and was happy so stuck with them on the current car and they performed well. I then tried Hankook All Seasons - never again. Then stuck the latest Goodyear Eagle 6 on and they were not great. They were cheaper than the 5's, that should have been a red flag.

Now currently on Continental Sport Contact 7 and so far I've been very happy with them. Will see how they perform as they wear though.
 
gman said:
I've been tempted many times to put on the the Pilot Sports, but they are always crazy expensive on my car.

Goodyear Eagles, the 3's J spec were nice on the Jag, very quiet but they wore fast. Replaced with Eagle 5's and was happy so stuck with them on the current car and they performed well. I then tried Hankook All Seasons - never again. Then stuck the latest Goodyear Eagle 6 on and they were not great. They were cheaper than the 5's, that should have been a red flag.

Now currently on Continental Sport Contact 7 and so far I've been very happy with them. Will see how they perform as they wear though.
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Honestly I wouldn’t bother unless you are gonna do the occasional track day.

PS5’s are actually a longer lasting Tyre.
 
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