Canon EOS R Series Cameras

[Phil V]

Well my lumix system is now gone. I had a good look at the R5 and R6 today. They seem very nice and I really liked the tiny RF 70-200. I am going to have to think long and hard and save a little more if I want the R5ii over the R6ii

You need to decide whether you’d really benefit from the increased resolution

IMHO It’s only really useful if you’re printing massive or cropping a lot.
And then, that only holds if you’re using the best lenses.

If you’re planning to use fast zoom lenses, there is a question of whether you’ll benefit from all the resolution of the R5 over the R6.

As a photographer of 40+ years, and where for most of those years I earned at least some of my income from photography, the mki R6 is the best camera I’ve ever owned and gives me results I’m delighted with.

 

[Adamcski]

You need to decide whether you’d really benefit from the increased resolution

IMHO It’s only really useful if you’re printing massive or cropping a lot.
And then, that only holds if you’re using the best lenses.

If you’re planning to use fast zoom lenses, there is a question of whether you’ll benefit from all the resolution of the R5 over the R6.

As a photographer of 40+ years, and where for most of those years I earned at least some of my income from photography, the mki R6 is the best camera I’ve ever owned and gives me results I’m delighted with.

Thank @Phil V

I have my OM 1 system and pro lenses also, as I do macro photography. I was going to see how I get on with those for 6 months and see how I feel. The money I will get from the Lumix system going will get me into the R6ii and the older RF 70-200. As it stands now (grey).

I figured I may just stay with the OM set up if I’m happy with the images (I’m not a pro and don’t really post anywhere). Alternatively, I could wait until the new mark 3 canons come out I can see what improvements are made, decide if they are worth it and if not, potentially get a cheaper R6ii at that point.

 

[TimHughes]

At the end of last year I switched from R5 M1 at 45MP to R1 at 24MP. I'm not missing the extra MP and loving the smaller files for event and sports photos. R6 M2 should be great!

 

[LongLensPhotography]

My current clients dont demand high res. But i have decided to up the game in the architecture a bit. I tried 24 tse ii. It is a horrible optical lens design actually and i got a horrible copy on top. Thankfully returned and refunded. So the game is really all about digital transformations until i can afford fuji 30mm. A quick job is tilt and fix in lightroom. That really sucks up the resolution and r6 suddenly becomes not quite enough. Spherical panos really up the game. 50mm art gives great results and im sure 70mm will improve it again. The upper layers still have some transformation softness visible in top layers but at least overall resolution is at least doubled.
Im debating whether to try laowa 20mm. For that i will also likely want high res body if i want to use it as 24mm or 28mm.... I got rid of 5ds, just had to be done but soon i will be buying a more modern equivalent and it wont necessarily be r5

 

[ST Colin]

Well unfortunately my first port since getting my R7 is not a good one. This weekend I dropped my bag and broke my R7 and attached RF 24-105 f4 L lens. Broken lens mount, and a cracked housing on the R7. I have sent both to Fixation and hoping they can be repaired. Could turn out to be a very costly mistake. Unfortunately I don't have insurance and it happened away from home so my house insurance doesn't cover it either. A very foolish mistake

 

[Brentor]

Well unfortunately my first port since getting my R7 is not a good one. This weekend I dropped my bag and broke my R7 and attached RF 24-105 f4 L lens. Broken lens mount, and a cracked housing on the R7. I have sent both to Fixation and hoping they can be repaired. Could turn out to be a very costly mistake. Unfortunately I don't have insurance and it happened away from home so my house insurance doesn't cover it either. A very foolish mistake

That really is bad news, hopefully the repair cost is reasonable.

I don’t suppose you were on holiday or an organised trip. If so your travel insurance may cover you.

 

[ST Colin]

Unfortunately not, just a short weekend break in North Wales.

I've probably been doing the wrong thing by trying to find info online about broken lens mounts and broken camera housings. I hope they can come back quickly with estimations.

Just absolutely gutted and angry at myself.

 

[Kieran_89]

Can you not just say you dropped it at home?

 

[hunnymonster]

Can you not just say you dropped it at home?

You mean like insurance fraud?

 

[Kieran_89]

You mean like insurance fraud?

Yes, paying the premium every month then you may as well use it.

 

[ST Colin]

That doesn't sit comfortably with me, I'd rather be honest. Ultimately it's my own fault, so I will need to pay the price.

 

[ST Colin]

Here is the damage. Resized these so I could upload here. As you can see, the camera body is quite bad. It functions, as I'd attached another lens before I saw the damage. Lens fitted fine, and AF etc worked fine. The screen works too, but it's slightly out of alignment when folded back into the recess.

The lens mount has come away from the main body, but two of the screws have popped out too. Not sure if that means more damage underneath or not. The lens zooms smoothly, control ring is fine and the hood/collar looked fine.

 

[LongLensPhotography]

This weekend I dropped my bag and broke

You mean it was in the bag and it still did this much damage?! Did it fall off a cliff many many meters?

I don't want to even think what Canon may quote. The lens may end up being more expensive as a whole lot of things were ripped apart inside, and like very out of alignment... Just hope the bottom half is cheap. Hopefully it works out for you.

Can you not just say you dropped it at home?

certainly not after posting about it here.

 

[Fordsabroad]

Have you checked if your home insurance covers it? Mine covers un declared items up to £4k. Be honest with them, they can only say no.

 

[ST Colin]

Home insurance will cover single items not listed up to £1500, but not away from home.

 

[ST Colin]

Repair costs have come back, £1100 in total to fix both. It's cheaper to repair than replace, so I'll be repairing. The main costs where on the lens where the USM assembly was broken along with one of the PCB's. The collar and the screws where very cheap in comparison.

 

[Brentor]

I have a RF 200-800MM F6.3-9 IS USM on test this weekend. It arrived early so I went to a local nature reserve today that had a large lake. I have to say I am very impressed. The max aperture, f9 is a limiting factor but today was very bright so I did not have to push the iso too much. I used a shutter speed of 1/1000, I could possibly have used less. The reach on the R7 is quite incredible and appears to be better controlled than I get using the Sigma 150-600, although this was probably due to the conditions, as I understand that the lens has no impact on noise.

Perhaps another addition to my wish list.

 

[Tysonator]

I've got an R7 but the question probably equally applies to other R series models. Is there a difference in quality when reviewing images via the EVF vs the rear screen ?
I ask as I normally use the screen but due to the weather I used the EVF and the images appeared less sharp using this method compared to my normal review. Is this down to my perception or is one better than the other

I have an R7, and the EVF is not a high resolution at all apx 2.36 million dots compare that to R5 OLED 5.76 million dots. It does just a good enough job to be usable, and though the rear screen is a higher resolution, therefore cleaner images. I use the EVF a lot as I get no glare when I use the rear screen.

 

[LC2]

Spent a couple of days learning my new R6ii (with adapted EF lenses) at MCM.
Coming from 7 years using mainly my Fuji X-T series cameras, swapping back to a SPAM dial camera certainly means learning new muscle memory, and I think the X-T5 will stay my main camera for the time being. There was enough changes to button placement from my old 5D3 that even though I'd used the 5D3 2 weekends ago, the R6ii felt strange.
The Face/Eye A/F will take a bit of getting used to, and I need to figure out a quick way to turn it all off, so I can swap to single point when I need to.

But it does seem to take a half decent picture...

Arty & Cruella - Cruella by Tim White, on Flickr

 

[A_S]

I've just bought a new R6 mk2 as a second body to compliment my well worn R5.... It will be interesting to see whether it superseeds the R5 as the main body..... Comes next week. Good deal after buying my 400 2.8 from cotswolds I had £100 of loyalty credit, so got it for just over £1,200. hopefully a steal

 

[LC2]

I've just bought a new R6 mk2 as a second body to compliment my well worn R5.... It will be interesting to see whether it superseeds the R5 as the main body..... Comes next week. Good deal after buying my 400 2.8 from cotswolds I had £100 of loyalty credit, so got it for just over £1,200. hopefully a steal

£1200. That's a decent price.

 

[Phil V]

The Face/Eye A/F will take a bit of getting used to, and I need to figure out a quick way to turn it all off, so I can swap to single point when I need to.

The best way to do this is to use the AF On button for spot focus (or whatever your usual choice) then you can program the * button for eye focus.

Might be a bit of a learning curve if you’re not used to BBF, but it makes the R6 the easiest camera to use that I’ve ever owned.

Focus always on continuous, so a quick tap of AF ON for a static object, hold the AF ON for a moving subject, and hold the * for people. And I rarely have to consider focussing, it just happens.

 

[LongLensPhotography]

£1200. That's a decent price.

Best I've seen. I definitely wouldn't say no if I needed another body. They appear out of stock in all the good places. Maybe III is near.

 

[A_S]

That was 1330 with a 100 credit or loyalty discount I had from buying the 400 2.8... so price was not one you could get normally.

 

[LC2]

The best way to do this is to use the AF On button for spot focus (or whatever your usual choice) then you can program the * button for eye focus.

Might be a bit of a learning curve if you’re not used to BBF, but it makes the R6 the easiest camera to use that I’ve ever owned.

Focus always on continuous, so a quick tap of AF ON for a static object, hold the AF ON for a moving subject, and hold the * for people. And I rarely have to consider focussing, it just happens.

Thanks @Phil V . I've never used Back Button Focusing. I guess I need to try. I can always reset if I don't like it.

 

[andrewc]

The R5-II has just appeared on the Test the Kit service, so I've got that coming for next weekend along with the 200-800mm RF lens.

 

[Willid1]

The R5-II has just appeared on the Test the Kit service, so I've got that coming for next weekend along with the 200-800mm RF lens.

I had the 200-800 on Test the Kit a while ago and loved it on my R7 despite the poor weather over my hire period BUT I'm holding off buying one as I'll then need to buy a Full Frame R body and that could get VERY EXPENSIVE

 

[andrewc]

I had the 200-800 on Test the Kit a while ago and loved it on my R7 despite the poor weather over my hire period BUT I'm holding off buying one as I'll then need to buy a Full Frame R body and that could get VERY EXPENSIVE

I'll be using it at Silverstone, will have trusty EF 100-400L II on standby.

 

[Willid1]

I'll be using it at Silverstone, will have trusty EF 100-400L II on standby

Sounds good - hopefully you'll be able to give a bit of a review and some images

D

 

[hashcake]

I'll be using it at Silverstone, will have trusty EF 100-400L II on standby.

I'm hiring the RF100-400 to try out on holiday.
I've recently come back to photography and previously owned the EF100-400L MK1 which I really liked.
I'm now going down the mirrorless route due to weight of a conventional DSLR.
However, I've been in two minds whether to buy another one and an adapter or perhaps the MK2 of the 100-400L.
I know they will be a lot heavier which would defeat the object for me.
However, I'm curious to know how well it works on a mirrorless setup with an adapter.
I'm assuming you lose 1 stop?

 

[Brentor]

I'm hiring the RF100-400 to try out on holiday.
I've recently come back to photography and previously owned the EF100-400L MK1 which I really liked.
I'm now going down the mirrorless route due to weight of a conventional DSLR.
However, I've been in two minds whether to buy another one and an adapter or perhaps the MK2 of the 100-400L.
I know they will be a lot heavier which would defeat the object for me.
However, I'm curious to know how well it works on a mirrorless setup with an adapter.
I'm assuming you lose 1 stop?

I have tried the EF100-400L MK2 with an adapter on a R7 and R6 and I really liked it. You do not loose a stop with the adapter.

 

[andrewc]

I'm hiring the RF100-400 to try out on holiday.
I've recently come back to photography and previously owned the EF100-400L MK1 which I really liked.
I'm now going down the mirrorless route due to weight of a conventional DSLR.
However, I've been in two minds whether to buy another one and an adapter or perhaps the MK2 of the 100-400L.
I know they will be a lot heavier which would defeat the object for me.
However, I'm curious to know how well it works on a mirrorless setup with an adapter.
I'm assuming you lose 1 stop?

They work as well as it did on an EF-mount Canon camera, and you don't loose a stop. The Canon EF 100-400 L II is 300g heavier than the RF 100-500 L closest equivalent, (approx 1 can of coke)

 

[JohnStewart]

The R5-II has just appeared on the Test the Kit service, so I've got that coming for next weekend along with the 200-800mm RF lens.

I had a free weekend hire of the 200-800 for a bike event a few months ago. Image quality was good and AF speed was fine (bright day). However, I didn't really get on with it as I found it a bit cumbersome to handle needing quite a big turn of the barrel to zoom in and out and it also felt quite front heavy when zoomed out. This might be fine if you have it mounted on a monopod and don't need to change the focal length quickly, but I was trying to capture them (handheld) coming through a corner at 800mm, then back to 200mm as they got closer and it was just a bit too awkward. I ended up leaving it in the boot of my car for the second day. However, if you need 800mm regularly then it would be a good option. I preferred the RF100-500 that I hired the year before and just cropped in post when required.

 

[Tysonator]

I'm hiring the RF100-400 to try out on holiday.
I've recently come back to photography and previously owned the EF100-400L MK1 which I really liked.
I'm now going down the mirrorless route due to weight of a conventional DSLR.
However, I've been in two minds whether to buy another one and an adapter or perhaps the MK2 of the 100-400L.
I know they will be a lot heavier which would defeat the object for me.
However, I'm curious to know how well it works on a mirrorless setup with an adapter.
I'm assuming you lose 1 stop?

I have a EF 100-400L Mkii mount on my R7, and you do not lose a stop of light. The EF 100-400L mkii is sharper than the Mki, and is more responsive. I also use a EF 70-300L f4-5.6 which is a cracking lens as it is compact, light, and sharp.
I only have the one EF to RF adapter, and if I was to buy another one then I would get the one with control ring.

 

[A_S]

R6 mk2 help if possibke

Trying to set my focus modes up. Ideally I wanted to match the R5 setup for muscle memory and as a base line while I experiment and play with the new focus customisation options - but honestly I’m struggling to get it to mirror the R5 after 2/3 days trying.

The option of having tracking and single point AF at the same time by setting use current af point in tracking mode doesn’t seem to be there. Screenshot below. By setting one of the top 2 options rather than auto id get a focus point I could wiggle around with the joystick and use to focus with my front button or I could hit af on and get tracking based on a subject away from that af point. The best of both worlds for what I do.



Any idea of a way to replicate?

Secondly when on single point with full screen tracking (info button) off I get this silly second focus box appear confusing everything. I don’t know what it is for, what it’s doing and how to turn it off.

If I am tracking a car at 1/20s travelling past me at over 100mph I want a single point and keep the car on that point - the last thing I want is another box confusing me





Single point mapped to a back button does not exhibit this behaviour by the way.

Any idea how I get the front button to do the same?

Apart from that I’m really impressed - the image quality at high iso surpasses the R5 quite comfortably

 

[A_S]

The only way I can seem to simulate this at the moment is to have

Front button mapped to single point with whole area servo tracking on

Back button mapped to single point with whole area tracking off

Lens control ring mapped to switch between focus methods to quickly switch to full area tracking

In an ideal world I’d like full area tracking with a focus point

 

[andrewc]

Had the use of the R5 Mark II this weekend and the RF 200-800mm lens.

I liked the camera very much, and it was good at tracking cars at speed, both approaching and also driving away from you, which historically I have found cameras to be less good at.
The lens was surprisingly good but a little cumbersome to use when trying to track a car and zooming in and out at the same time. It would be a useful thing to have, but the 100-400/100-500 range is a more usable lens in operation.

 

[boer13]

Hello All..

Has anyone else noticed odd (well, different from my SLR bodies) behaviour from a R6ii + EF telephoto lens, in that the lens IS does not deactivate even after 10minutes?
1. Switch off R6ii
2. Mount EF 300/2.8 or EF 800 and switch lens IS to On
3. Switch on R6ii and don't touch anything else
4. Press ear to EF lens, notice the lens IS sound confirming activation without provocation
5. Switch lens IS button to Off, notice the lens IS sound stops immediately

My EF 135 and EF 35ii don't have IS so no idea how repeatable this is for shorter / newer / other EF lenses.
Same behaviour - independent of R6ii IBIS on/off.
IS works, it just doesn't switch off, ever.

Anybody?

 

[Nostromo]

Hello All..

Has anyone else noticed odd (well, different from my SLR bodies) behaviour from a R6ii + EF telephoto lens, in that the lens IS does not deactivate even after 10minutes?
1. Switch off R6ii
2. Mount EF 300/2.8 or EF 800 and switch lens IS to On
3. Switch on R6ii and don't touch anything else
4. Press ear to EF lens, notice the lens IS sound confirming activation without provocation
5. Switch lens IS button to Off, notice the lens IS sound stops immediately

My EF 135 and EF 35ii don't have IS so no idea how repeatable this is for shorter / newer / other EF lenses.
Same behaviour - independent of R6ii IBIS on/off.
IS works, it just doesn't switch off, ever.

Anybody?

It's the same with my r7, I suspect it's the same for all R bodies.
It's rather annoying and must be a slight drain on the battery.

 

[Phil V]

Hello All..

Has anyone else noticed odd (well, different from my SLR bodies) behaviour from a R6ii + EF telephoto lens, in that the lens IS does not deactivate even after 10minutes?
1. Switch off R6ii
2. Mount EF 300/2.8 or EF 800 and switch lens IS to On
3. Switch on R6ii and don't touch anything else
4. Press ear to EF lens, notice the lens IS sound confirming activation without provocation
5. Switch lens IS button to Off, notice the lens IS sound stops immediately

My EF 135 and EF 35ii don't have IS so no idea how repeatable this is for shorter / newer / other EF lenses.
Same behaviour - independent of R6ii IBIS on/off.
IS works, it just doesn't switch off, ever.

Anybody?

You can switch the IS mode in the menu to ‘only for shot’ rather than ‘always on’