Canon EOS R Series Cameras

I guess I will be looking sideways for some extra special R5 offer, so I can offload both R6 and this time the 5Ds together. I have no further interest in 6-series or equivalent.
 
nandbytes said:
its probably the same kind of sensor in R3 without the "stacking".
As far as I can tell unless you drop the bit depth and dynamic range massively you cannot shoot 20-40fps electronically. Only way to achieve both is with stacked sensor.

Electronic shutter on anything but a stacked sensor seem to come with issues like loss in quality or banding or noise or all of them.
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New back-illuminated, stacked sensor developed by Canon - Canon UK

At the heart of the EOS R3 is a back-illuminated, stacked sensor delivering 30fps continuous shooting (with continuous AF and AE) and camera check focus 60 times every second.
www.canon.co.uk www.canon.co.uk
R3 has BSI stacked sensor. R6II is neither stacked nor BSI, so that likely means it is completely independent. It doesn't mean it is bad but limitation like you say will be there. It will be interesting to see further analysis.

They could do us a favour and at least give 14bit at lower fps e-shutter. And while at it give lower fps options for both R5 and R6 via fw update

Next obvious question is how long do we have until R5 mkII
 
20221102-_Y0A1744-Edit.jpg
Cold, dark and wet November

R6, Sigma 35/1.4 ISO ridiculous, denoise AI.

It is insane how far this can go. Subject matter is very forgiving for low shutter speed, otherwise I don't think even with IBIS I would get away with 1/10 so easily
 
LongLensPhotography said:
View attachment 372278
Cold, dark and wet November

R6, Sigma 35/1.4 ISO ridiculous, denoise AI.

It is insane how far this can go. Subject matter is very forgiving for low shutter speed, otherwise I don't think even with IBIS I would get away with 1/10 so easily
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finding the same with my R5
I’ve mentioned on here before I recently did some band photography, a rock band and even though I had to use max ISO to get a reasonable shutter speed as it was almost dark I still got decent results
 
First proper landscape session in a while today. The output of the R6 and 24-105 f4 is good enough for me. One from the well photographed Blea Tarn in the Lake District taken earlier today. I don't think I got the polariser right as some of the stones in the bottom of the lake can be seen through the surface.

As the forum upload seems to have killed the quality I've uploaded to Flickr.


Blea Tarn Reflection by Rob Cain, on Flickr
 
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Is there any shutter black out when shooting multiple shots at speed with the R6? I shot an event with a mirrorless camera and the viewfinder went black / froze when shooting at high speed. I had a 5DMKIV and 70-200 and I am trying to replicate that in the mirrorless world....
 
DCFlix said:
Is there any shutter black out when shooting multiple shots at speed with the R6? I shot an event with a mirrorless camera and the viewfinder went black / froze when shooting at high speed. I had a 5DMKIV and 70-200 and I am trying to replicate that in the mirrorless world....
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Yes, it's dreadful. LCD screen looks a lot smoother than evf so that's no 1, and no 2 I would use electronic s***ter mode whenever you need that high fps
 
DCFlix said:
Is there any shutter black out when shooting multiple shots at speed with the R6? I shot an event with a mirrorless camera and the viewfinder went black / froze when shooting at high speed. I had a 5DMKIV and 70-200 and I am trying to replicate that in the mirrorless world....
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I’ve used SLRs for close to 40 yrs, and AFAIC the r6 blacks out fairly similarly to any SLR I’ve used.

I appreciate that mirrorless has the option to never blackout but the R6 hasn’t got that feature.

Edit; I’ve not used electronic shutter, my thoughts are from mechanical shutter
 
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Very specific question - for the R7 users here has anyone tried it with a 100-400 mk11 and a 1.4X converter??
 
I got my first RF lens this week. Just the cheap RF 50mm f/1.8 STM I have the EF version which I use on my M50, but I wanted to see what the Control ring was all about, and this lens seemed the cheapest way to get it. I expect this lens will spend a lot of time on my R7, at least until a 32mm f/14 comes along.

Took this hand held on the way home from work. Quite impressed with the ability to hand hold this at 1/13.
7J8A1900-2.jpg
 
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Willid1 said:
Very specific question - for the R7 users here has anyone tried it with a 100-400 mk11 and a 1.4X converter??
Click to expand...

I would be interested on answers to this as I have 100-400L mkii and R7, I say R7 it is still on bloody order from 30th June 2022
 
Phil V said:
I’ve used SLRs for close to 40 yrs, and AFAIC the r6 blacks out fairly similarly to any SLR I’ve used.

I appreciate that mirrorless has the option to never blackout but the R6 hasn’t got that feature.

Edit; I’ve not used electronic shutter, my thoughts are from mechanical shutter
Click to expand...
I‘m probably being thick, but don’t see how mirrorless can avoid blackouts when using the mechanical shutter. My logic is that the shutter must first be closed (obscuring the sensor) and cocked, then fired and finally reopened to enable viewing via the sensor.

As for the electronic shutter, my assumption is that this is essentially an on-demand screen grab from the sensor. So the mechanical shutter is open throughout.
 
GeeJay57 said:
I‘m probably being thick, but don’t see how mirrorless can avoid blackouts when using the mechanical shutter. My logic is that the shutter must first be closed (obscuring the sensor) and cocked, then fired and finally reopened to enable viewing via the sensor.

As for the electronic shutter, my assumption is that this is essentially an on-demand screen grab from the sensor. So the mechanical shutter is open throughout.
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Yes, basically. The video above actually explains it nicely. In summary mirrorless have to do one extra shutter operation in fully mechanical mode, and this is in addition to GPU lag sending signal late to EVF. The experience is one where you are unable to keep tracking the position of your subject. There is almost zero reason to use full mechanical where e 1st curtain is considerably more workable. E mode eliminates the main issue at cost of going down to 12bit and potentially some roll (with 2nd and 3rd tier cameras like R6), but EVF lag still somewhat remains and for fast unpredictable action very much remains a major hindrance. That same reused EVF and GPU in R6II is the very reason why I'm not going to waste my money on it.
 
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Great set Robert ;)
 
rob-nikon said:
First proper landscape session in a while today. The output of the R6 and 24-105 f4 is good enough for me. One from the well photographed Blea Tarn in the Lake District taken earlier today. I don't think I got the polariser right as some of the stones in the bottom of the lake can be seen through the surface.

As the forum upload seems to have killed the quality I've uploaded to Flickr.


Blea Tarn Reflection by Rob Cain, on Flickr
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are you changing your handle to Rob-Canon Rob?
 
Balb0wa said:
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Ouch. I've only seen that grid over image from my 5ds when I pushed ISO3200 near black images like 2-3 stops. I though R6 was immune to this. What did you do to get it?
 
Anyone with thoughts on the RF 24 1.8 vs EF 24 1.4? I have the Samyang EF 24 1.4 which is manual focus, could do with a version with autofocus, mainly for live events where I need more light than f2.8.
 
TimHughes said:
Anyone with thoughts on the RF 24 1.8 vs EF 24 1.4? I have the Samyang EF 24 1.4 which is manual focus, could do with a version with autofocus, mainly for live events where I need more light than f2.8.
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www.the-digital-picture.com

Canon RF 24mm F1.8 Macro IS STM Lens Image Quality

View the image quality delivered by the Canon RF 24mm F1.8 Macro IS STM Lens using ISO 12233 Resolution Chart lab test results. Compare the image quality of this lens with other lenses.
www.the-digital-picture.com www.the-digital-picture.com

I don't like the look of either of them to be honest, and i really don't like the idea of STM at all. I would just get sigma art and save a bit and have some compatibility with sony that way. At f/4 sigma looks a lot better by the way.
www.the-digital-picture.com

Canon RF 24mm F1.8 Macro IS STM Lens Image Quality

View the image quality delivered by the Canon RF 24mm F1.8 Macro IS STM Lens using ISO 12233 Resolution Chart lab test results. Compare the image quality of this lens with other lenses.
www.the-digital-picture.com www.the-digital-picture.com

edit: but either one of them will be gazillion times sharper than rokinon / sanyang wide open and you at least have a good chance to be in focus.
 
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TimHughes said:
Anyone with thoughts on the RF 24 1.8 vs EF 24 1.4? I have the Samyang EF 24 1.4 which is manual focus, could do with a version with autofocus, mainly for live events where I need more light than f2.8.
Click to expand...

Doesn't look great in corners for shooting wide open but not sure if you care about the corners
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfjxK9EO9Nc


The EF and even he sigma Art version are a bit of an old design and not that great tbh. Sigma ART DSLR version is probably the best of the lot that's availabe for canon.

I see from your signature you have both Fuji and canon, may be fuji is better brand for 24mm FoV lenses. their 16mm or sigma 16mm f1.4 are really nice lenses in comparison.
 
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nandbytes said:
Doesn't look great in corners for shooting wide open but not sure if you care about the corners
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfjxK9EO9Nc


The EF and even he sigma Art version are a bit of an old design and not that great tbh. Sigma ART DSLR version is probably the best of the lot that's availabe for canon.

I see from your signature you have both Fuji and canon, may be fuji is better brand for 24mm FoV lenses. their 16mm or sigma 16mm f1.4 are really nice lenses in comparison.
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I'm actually half tempted to get the art myself, unless I get the TSE mkII instead. Probably the latter would be more useful for my line of work, but also significantly dearer. I've got 2 L zooms that cover 24mm and I'm not truly happy with either. Ever since I got 5Ds I fell out of love with shorter zooms.

There is the newer DN ART version, which is obviously not available in Canon RF mount. I looked at the charts and I can see a very subtle improvement over DG version, It's there but it wouldn't justify upgrading. If you want to see truly major gains look at 35mm or 20mm versions. Also there is contemporary version, again E and L mount only and that is f/2 and at that setting it is already by far the sharpest one of the lot. The best 24mm f/1.4 lens is clearly the Sony GM and that is that.

P.s. I believe Tim is into the big Fuji's.... There is no 1.4 version there.
 
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nandbytes said:
Doesn't look great in corners for shooting wide open but not sure if you care about the corners
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfjxK9EO9Nc


The EF and even he sigma Art version are a bit of an old design and not that great tbh. Sigma ART DSLR version is probably the best of the lot that's availabe for canon.

I see from your signature you have both Fuji and canon, may be fuji is better brand for 24mm FoV lenses. their 16mm or sigma 16mm f1.4 are really nice lenses in comparison.
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Thanks! I think I’ll try second hand EF. Fuji is only GFX.
 
Bit of a random question but on a similar subject to what I have read above.

Is there any way to set a max burst as th standard burst mode on my r5 is too slow and the other 2 options are much too fast!

Edit: I should add that I’ve poure through the manual when I first got it in order to set it up how I want it and didn’t see anything but maybe a subsequent firmware update might have added
 
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A_S said:
Bit of a random question but on a similar subject to what I have read above.

Is there any way to set a max burst as th standard burst mode on my r5 is too slow and the other 2 options are much too fast!

Edit: I should add that I’ve poure through the manual when I first got it in order to set it up how I want it and didn’t see anything but maybe a subsequent firmware update might have added
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Simple answer is no ... annoyed the hell out of me when I had a R5 ... especially when my old 7D II can do it.
The other thing was no option of assigning a sound to the electronic shutter.
 
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Do people use electronic shutter or first curtain? I tried panning on electronic a few weeks ago and it was so much easier but took too many shots and I had heard it can cause some deformation of the image?
 
A_S said:
Do people use electronic shutter or first curtain? I tried panning on electronic a few weeks ago and it was so much easier but took too many shots and I had heard it can cause some deformation of the image?
Click to expand...

If you look back a page there is a link to a video which explains all about the different shutter types and when to use them. It is for the R7 mainly but will give you a good idea of what to expect with each type.

Edit : post 5966 on this page.
 
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Mike.P said:
If you look back a page there is a link to a video which explains all about the different shutter types and when to use them. It is for the R7 mainly but will give you a good idea of what to expect with each type.

Edit : post 5966 on this page.
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Thanks I’ll have a look. I normally don’t pay attention to the vids as I view on my phone. Will have a look. Apologies for missing it
 
I tried the R7 pre shooting mode yesterday at my hide. Initially I was blown away but when I extracted and then viewed the images on my PC, the warping affected about 50% of the images, to some degree.

I was a little disappointed and this is my first negative about the R7 so far but I do think it's workable, with the caveat that some shots may be lost. It's certainly better than not having it.

I watched Duade's video too and found that very interesting. There are some scenarios that he explained that the effect can sometimes add to the image.
 
I was a guest at the civil wedding of my niece (I think she is - I lose track of the relatives...) who married her partner on Friday.

I don't do people - especially weddings! They did of course have a professional wedding photographer there to record the whole event but I took my camera and did a few myself. Small selection below...

Camera was set to mostly f2/8 due to the indoor setting of Bartle Hall where the event took place, with the ISO set to AUTO (which gave some pretty high ISO images, which did OK, but I did use some NR afterwards) and in silent shutter mode. Some where fired "off the cuff - without looking at the screen and pointing the lens in (Hopefully) the right place and some where of course framed as required.

The pro wedding photographer had control of the the angles, I was just sat in the seats during the service. All in all, quite pleased with the results...

tomlin_c-XL.jpg


tomlin_d-XL.jpg


tomlin_o-XL.jpg


tomlin_v-XL.jpg


utomlin_v-XL.jpg


utomlin_uB_w-XL.jpg


utomlin_k-XL.jpg


utomlin_x-XL.jpg



Paul.
 
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Has anyone also got EF-RF adapter that is less than 24mm thick? Mine is barely 23.2mm

That's could be less than desirable, and I hear IF wideangles are particularly affected to give some further temptation to buy RF ones!

I'm seriously tempted to visit WEX and make them find 24.0mm sample and do the warranty exchange.
 
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