Canon EOS R Series Cameras

Brentor said:
Without meaning any offence, but this is not your best. Perhaps ISO 5000 is pushing the R7 too much. Needs to be sharper.
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No offense taken, it's not as sharp as I would have liked, I guess that's what you get for hand holding a 3kg+ lens at 600mm 1/500th ISO 5000 on a 32MP crop body., I was wobbling all over the place and it is very heavily cropped. :D

I'm really undecided about the R7 though, I do wonder if 32MP is a step too far in a crop body, especially as it has quite an agressive ant-aliasing filter by all accounts and I really do not like the body size or button placement.

Early days though .... another week before Ebay do a cheap fees weekend ;)
 
Mike.P said:
No offense taken, it's not as sharp as I would have liked, I guess that's what you get for hand holding a 3kg+ lens at 600mm 1/500th ISO 5000 on a 32MP crop body., I was wobbling all over the place and it is very heavily cropped. :D

I'm really undecided about the R7 though, I do wonder if 32MP is a step too far in a crop body, especially as it has quite an agressive ant-aliasing filter by all accounts and I really do not like the body size or button placement.

Early days though .... another week before Ebay do a cheap fees weekend ;)
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Stick on a tripod with timer and something like 50mm lens and you will see what the sensor is capable of. It might resolve in ideal conditions but it will be a struggle particularly with longer darker zooms in dark conditions. A superzoom might not resolve much more than 20mp at ff on its own.... You just need to do all tests before making decisions
 
If issue is very minor don't forget to try sharpen ai or denoise ai. With right settings it might do miracles if there is only one predominant issue (focus, shake in single direction or noise)
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Stick on a tripod with timer and something like 50mm lens and you will see what the sensor is capable of.
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I don't use a tripod or a 50mm lens so that would be a bit pointless, I bought the camera purely for wildlife so I need to get out more over the next week and see what I can get out of it in some decent light with the 150-600mm and 100-400mm. It might just mean selling all my EF stuff and buying the 100-500mm (but I will borrow one of those off Canon first)

LongLensPhotography said:
If issue is very minor don't forget to try sharpen ai or denoise ai. With right settings it might do miracles if there is only one predominant issue (focus, shake in single direction or noise)
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I alreay did that on the Nuthatch which did make it a bit better ... (edit note below the image)
 
Mike.P said:
I don't use a tripod or a 50mm lens so that would be a bit pointless, I bought the camera purely for wildlife so I need to get out more over the next week and see what I can get out of it in some decent light with the 150-600mm and 100-400mm. It might just mean selling all my EF stuff and buying the 100-500mm (but I will borrow one of those off Canon first)
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That's not the point. You need to figure out what sensor is capable of before throwing more expensive glass on it. And I would then suggest testing what your lenses are capable of in best conditions. 100-400 mkii should be pretty sharp if it's a good copy and that's what you need to find out
I go to extreme lengths to get 100% out of 5ds and results can be impressive. Casual shooting hardly ever results in better that 20-25mp equivalent image. Crop sensor means more like 12-16mp equiv...
 
I've been looking at brackets. As it's been pointed out most will get inthe way of the screen and will require working around cutout and risk denting it. That's more of a nuisance. I still need rc4 plated all round so that's a heavy sanction to pay for a few mm of grip extension that's not even that smooth...

These guys go the screen bit just right, but totally missed the opportunity to deal with the grip. And note the insane pricing for a slab of aluminium https://promediagear.com/products/plcr56-l-bracket-plate-canon-eos-r5-and-r6
 
this might be of interest re long zooms
www.the-digital-picture.com

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens Image Quality

View the image quality delivered by the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens using ISO 12233 Resolution Chart lab test results. Compare the image quality of this lens with other lenses.
www.the-digital-picture.com www.the-digital-picture.com
www.the-digital-picture.com

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens Image Quality

View the image quality delivered by the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens using ISO 12233 Resolution Chart lab test results. Compare the image quality of this lens with other lenses.
www.the-digital-picture.com www.the-digital-picture.com
www.the-digital-picture.com

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens Image Quality

View the image quality delivered by the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens using ISO 12233 Resolution Chart lab test results. Compare the image quality of this lens with other lenses.
www.the-digital-picture.com www.the-digital-picture.com
www.the-digital-picture.com

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens Image Quality

View the image quality delivered by the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens using ISO 12233 Resolution Chart lab test results. Compare the image quality of this lens with other lenses.
www.the-digital-picture.com www.the-digital-picture.com
Mike.P said:
150-600mm and 100-400mm
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Unless your copy of Sigma is significantly better I would let it go and free up some cash. You are better off cropping 400mm.

DN sport appears to be a MAAASSIVE upgrade but you will never ever get it for canon but you could get one with some sony body... and that's what I would be tempted to do before jumping into something like Nikon 800mm
 
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robinsslee said:
Copied from Canon Germany website for R5

EF lenses supporting 12 frames/sec. continuous shooting
When the drive mode is set to [ ] (High-speed continuous shooting+), shooting at 12 frames/second is possible with the following EF lenses (as of July 2020).
EF24mm f/2.8 IS USM
EF28mm f/2.8 IS USM
EF35mm f/1.4L II USM
EF35mm f/2 IS USM
EF40mm f/2.8 STM
EF50mm f/1.8 STM
EF85mm f/1.4L IS USM
EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
EF300mm f/2.8L IS II USM
EF400mm f/2.8L IS II USM
EF400mm f/2.8L IS III USM
EF400mm f/4 DO IS II USM
EF500mm f/4L IS II USM
EF600mm f/4L IS II USM
EF600mm f/4L IS III USM
EF8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM
EF11-24mm f/4L USM
EF16-35mm f/2.8L III USM
EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM
EF24-105mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM
EF24-105mm f/ 4L IS II USM
EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
EF24-70mm f/4L IS USM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM
EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM
EF70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II USM
EF70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM
EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM
EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x
EF-S24mm f/2.8 STM
EF-S35mm f/2.8 Macro IS STM
EF-S10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM
EF-S15-85mm f/3.5 -5.6 IS USM
EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM
EF-S18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM
EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM
EF-S55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM

  • The continuous shooting speed may change depending on the shutter speed, aperture, aperture status during continuous shooting, subject conditions, brightness (shooting in dark places, etc.), type of lens, etc.
List of lenses with maximum continuous shooting speed of approx. 20 frames/sec. expected not to decrease
The following is the list of lenses for which the maximum continuous shooting speed is approx. 20 frames/sec. expected not to decrease (as of July 2020).
RF15-35mm F2.8 L IS USM
RF24-70mm F2.8 L IS USM
RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM
RF24-240mm F4-6.3 IS USM
RF28-70mm F2 L USM
EF14mm f/2.8L II USM
EF20mm f/2.8 USM
EF24mm f/1.4L II USM
EF28mm f/1.8 USM
EF35mm f/1.4L USM
EF50mm f/1.2L USM
EF50mm f/1.4 USM
EF85mm f/1.2L II USM
EF85mm f/1.8 USM
EF100mm f/2 USM
EF100mm f/ 2.8 Macro USM
EF135mm f/2L USM
EF135mm f/2L USM + Extender EF1.4x III
EF135mm f/2L USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF200mm f/2.8L II USM
EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM
EF300mm f/2.8L IS II USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF300mm f/4L IS USM + Extender EF1.4x III
EF300mm f/4L IS USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF400mm f/4 DO IS USM
EF400mm f/4 DO IS II USM
EF400mm f/4 DO IS II USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF400mm f/5.6L USM
EF400mm f/ 5.6L USM + Extender EF1.4x III
EF400mm f/5.6L USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF500mm f/4L IS USM
EF500mm f/4L IS II USM
EF500mm f/4L IS II USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF600mm f/ 4L IS USM
EF600mm f/4L IS II USM
EF800mm f/5.6L IS USM
EF800mm f/5.6L IS USM + Extender EF1.4x III
EF800mm f/5.6L IS USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM
EF16-35mm f/2.8L III USM
EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM
EF16-35mm f/2.8L USM
EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM
EF17-40mm f/4L USM
EF24-105mm f/4L IS II USM
EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM
EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM
EF24-70mm f/4L IS USM
EF28 -105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
EF28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L USM
EF70-200mm f/4L USM
EF70-200mm f/4L USM + Extender EF1.4x III
EF70-200mm f/ 4L USM + Extender EF2.0x III
EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM
EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM
EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM + Extender EF1.4x III
EF70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II USM
EF70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM
EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM
EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x
EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x + Extender EF1.4x III
EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x + Extender EF2.0x III
EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x: with integrated Ext.1.4x + Extender EF1.4x III
EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x: with integrated Ext.1.4x + Extenders EF2.0x III
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e shutter definitely looks like the way forward, and hopefully all future cams will move to it before jumping to global shutters.

Does R3 have any such limitations in place, or is e shutter basically unlimited?
 
GeeJay57 said:
Interesting that the EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM is listed as supporting 20fps but not listed for 12fps.
Meanwhile EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM is shown as supporting 12fps but not listed for 20fps.

I‘m guessing this is a typo?
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It could be a typo, but I've had a look at Canon's manual again, here are my findings and I hope it helps. You could look it up under R6 manual too but I suspect they are pretty much similar.

In order to get either 12fps or 20fps in mechanical and electronic shutter respectively, you need to select the High Speed Continuous Shooting (H+ Mode). H+ continuous shooting is available under the following conditions.

Conditions
Room temperature (23°C/73°F)
Battery level (LP-E6NH): At least approx. 60% (or using an optional Battery Grip BG-R10, a battery level of at least approx. 60% with two LP-E6NH)
Shutter speed: 1/1000 sec. or faster
Wi-Fi connection: Not connected
Flicker reduction: None
Set to maximum aperture, when using RF lenses or compatible EF lenses below

EF Lens Compatibility
EF24mm f/2.8 IS USM
EF28mm f/2.8 IS USM
EF35mm f/1.4L II USM
EF35mm f/2 IS USM
EF40mm f/2.8 STM
EF50mm f/1.8 STM
EF85mm f/1.4L IS USM
EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
EF300mm f/2.8L IS II USM
EF400mm f/2.8L IS II USM
EF400mm f/2.8L IS III USM
EF400mm f/4 DO IS II USM
EF500mm f/4L IS II USM
EF600mm f/4L IS II USM
EF600mm f/4L IS III USM
EF8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM
EF11-24mm f/4L USM
EF16-35mm f/2.8L III USM
EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM
EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
EF24-70mm f/4L IS USM
EF24-105mm f/4L IS II USM
EF24-105mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM
EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM
EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM
EF70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM
EF70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II USM
 
LongLensPhotography said:
DN sport appears to be a MAAASSIVE upgrade but you will never ever get it for canon but you could get one with some sony body... and that's what I would be tempted to do before jumping into something like Nikon 800mm
Click to expand...

I have a Sony a9 and 200-600mm but it's only a 24mp sensor which doesn't give enought "cropability" when shooting wildlife ... I am nearly always at 100% which is why I bought the R7.
 
Mike.P said:
I have a Sony a9 and 200-600mm but it's only a 24mp sensor which doesn't give enought "cropability" when shooting wildlife ... I am nearly always at 100% which is why I bought the R7.
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So surely it would be better to go for one of their high res sensors either in the R or A1 form rather than to crop from a relatively soft* lens. Your are really looking at fat primes to better 200-600

* soft by 50MP FF standards. They are reasonable as designed at around 1DX / 18MP FF resolution.... certainly no more.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
e shutter definitely looks like the way forward, and hopefully all future cams will move to it before jumping to global shutters.

Does R3 have any such limitations in place, or is e shutter basically unlimited?
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I suspect they are pretty much the same but much faster read-out due to the back-illuminated stacked sensor.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
So surely it would be better to go for one of their high res sensors either in the R or A1 form rather than to crop from a relatively soft* lens. Your are really looking at fat primes to better 200-600
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The A1 is 5k .... the R7 is 1.5k, the rest of Sony's bodies don't interest me for one reason or another. (maybe when they bring out an a9 III)

R7 seems to be ok up to around ISO 3200 ... I can probably live with that.



Robin by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr
 
LongLensPhotography said:
I go to extreme lengths to get 100% out of 5ds and results can be impressive. Casual shooting hardly ever results in better that 20-25mp equivalent image. Crop sensor means more like 12-16mp equiv...
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For the uninitiated, can you please explain.
 
Anybody on the look out for a RF 85mm f/2 I have mine up for sale in classified :-)
 
Fed up with the R7 situation now. Under the circumstances, some of which are out Canon’s control in fairness but why announce a camera in May, for pre order, if they can’t even provide updates on the situation?

For the first time today, I considered cancelling mine, as I don’t need it, I just want it.
 
Dale. said:
Fed up with the R7 situation now. Under the circumstances, some of which are out Canon’s control in fairness but why announce a camera in May, for pre order, if they can’t even provide updates on the situation?

For the first time today, I considered cancelling mine, as I don’t need it, I just want it.
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I don't blame you for being fed up with waiting. If there is nothing else you want instead, it could be a win - win or you could wait a bit longer. My friend has hers now; think she really likes it; I will find out when she gets back from Turkey. Somehow, it might be more tolerable. if there was some transparency. and information released.
 
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Chipper said:
I don't blame you for being fed up with waiting. If there is nothing else you want instead, it could be a win - win or you could wait a bit longer. My friend has hers now; think she really likes it; I will find out when she gets back from Turkey.
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Cool, thanks.

I will sit it out for a bit yet, I wouldn't mind the wait if we were kept up to date, that's not a good show on Canon's part. The wait is made easier for me as the R7 is an indulgence and ultimately, a back up to my 5div, although the eye AF and frame rate will be nice.
 
Dale. said:
Fed up with the R7 situation now. Under the circumstances, some of which are out Canon’s control in fairness but why announce a camera in May, for pre order, if they can’t even provide updates on the situation?

For the first time today, I considered cancelling mine, as I don’t need it, I just want it.
Click to expand...

Canon could give away another goodie as a gesture of goodwill if you have to wait over a certain time period, or state the max wait for delivery is XX days or months. To not give any updates is really poor.
What keeps me to canon is my L glass as I can not afford to sell it and buy equitant Sony GM glass !
 
Tysonator said:
Canon could give away another goodie as a gesture of goodwill if you have to wait over a certain time period, or state the max wait for delivery is XX days or months. To not give any updates is really poor.
What keeps me to canon is my L glass as I can not afford to sell it and buy equitant Sony GM glass !
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Updates is what bugs me, it would just be nice to get some.

I'm lensed in too, it's how it works, marketing.
 
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The problem with the R7 is it’s part of a global supply shortage of electronic components caused in part by the initial covid response and now extended by zero covid policy in China that is causing shutdowns and supply chain issues. It’s affecting all electronic based equipment including other camera/lens releases and high cost items such as electric vehicles (some state 12-18 months on orders of EV’s at present).

I know from orders of electronic equipment at my work the stated delivery date is pretty much useless as we know it will be delayed but no one can say when they will turn up. It’s likely to be pretty hard to get an accurate update when they themselves don’t know when or how many will turn up.

The issue I can see is that stock is appearing on grey sellers when pre orders throughout the world haven’t been fulfilled.

The lower price of the R7 compared to the R3/R5/R6 and the fact the ‘7’ symbolises a mirrorless replacement of the 7DII for many probably meant many more initial pre orders than other R cameras.

This is going to be an issue for all manufacturers in the short to medium term and is very likely out of their control. Ordering any electronic equipment that isn’t in stock in store is an issue at present and means a long wait.
 
rob-nikon said:
The problem with the R7 is it’s part of a global supply shortage of electronic components caused in part by the initial covid response and now extended by zero covid policy in China that is causing shutdowns and supply chain issues. It’s affecting all electronic based equipment including other camera/lens releases and high cost items such as electric vehicles (some state 12-18 months on orders of EV’s at present).

I know from orders of electronic equipment at my work the stated delivery date is pretty much useless as we know it will be delayed but no one can say when they will turn up. It’s likely to be pretty hard to get an accurate update when they themselves don’t know when or how many will turn up.

The issue I can see is that stock is appearing on grey sellers when pre orders throughout the world haven’t been fulfilled.

The lower price of the R7 compared to the R3/R5/R6 and the fact the ‘7’ symbolises a mirrorless replacement of the 7DII for many probably meant many more initial pre orders than other R cameras.

This is going to be an issue for all manufacturers in the short to medium term and is very likely out of their control. Ordering any electronic equipment that isn’t in stock in store is an issue at present and means a long wait.
Click to expand...

Yep.
Car parts, consoles / electric goods, house boiler parts.
They’re all still affected.
 
Dale. said:
Upfates is what bugs me, it would just be nice to get some.

I'm lensed in too, it's how it works, marketing.
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I’m guessing the only update that could be possibly be given would be the store saying when they get stock, how many they’ve received and what number pre order they’re up to. That’s not an easy thing to manage via email as they would need to trim the email list every time an update is sent or send out individual emails. Both take time to do and they may not have the resources to do that. It’s a difficult and unfortunate situation for all parties.
 
rob-nikon said:
The problem with the R7 is it’s part of a global supply shortage of electronic components caused in part by the initial covid response and now extended by zero covid policy in China that is causing shutdowns and supply chain issues. It’s affecting all electronic based equipment including other camera/lens releases and high cost items such as electric vehicles (some state 12-18 months on orders of EV’s at present).

I know from orders of electronic equipment at my work the stated delivery date is pretty much useless as we know it will be delayed but no one can say when they will turn up. It’s likely to be pretty hard to get an accurate update when they themselves don’t know when or how many will turn up.

The issue I can see is that stock is appearing on grey sellers when pre orders throughout the world haven’t been fulfilled.

The lower price of the R7 compared to the R3/R5/R6 and the fact the ‘7’ symbolises a mirrorless replacement of the 7DII for many probably meant many more initial pre orders than other R cameras.

This is going to be an issue for all manufacturers in the short to medium term and is very likely out of their control. Ordering any electronic equipment that isn’t in stock in store is an issue at present and means a long wait.
Click to expand...
And with the 7DII getting a bit long in the tooth, it was very likely that there would be strong demand for an updated version either DSLR or mirrorless. I think a lot of 7DII users were hoping for a 7DIII before the curtain came down on DSLRs, clearly that’s not happening.

The R7 is currently looking like the nearest thing to a mirrorless 7DII, just wondering if Canon will come up with a Bluetooth battery grip for it.
 
Hi All. Hope somebody can help me please with a noddy question: I am considering an R7 and RF 100-400 as an upgrade to my much-loved Sony RX10iv. Say I was shooting at 600mm (equiv), f4 and iso100 giving a 1/1000 shutter on the RX10 - what iso would I need on the R7 and RF100-400 at f8 to give an equivalent 1/1000 shutter? Reckon I would be any better off in terms of noise (both lenses are sharp enough for me)?

Any other views on whether this would be worth it would be welcome. TIA :)
 
rob-nikon said:
It’s a difficult and unfortunate situation for all parties.
Click to expand...

I do agree with that Rob, I ordered mine with LCE and they have been helpful throughout and in fairness to them, they seem to be just as much in the dark about it too.
 
dibbly dobbler said:
Hi All. Hope somebody can help me please with a noddy question: I am considering an R7 and RF 100-400 as an upgrade to my much-loved Sony RX10iv. Say I was shooting at 600mm (equiv), f4 and iso100 giving a 1/1000 shutter on the RX10 - what iso would I need on the R7 and RF100-400 at f8 to give an equivalent 1/1000 shutter? Reckon I would be any better off in terms of noise (both lenses are sharp enough for me)?

Any other views on whether this would be worth it would be welcome. TIA :)
Click to expand...
If everything is equal between the cameras (I’m not sure on that) ifyou’re going from f4 to f8 you’d lose two stops of light. Keeping 1/1000 sec would mean compensating with two stops of ISO, in your example that would mean changing from ISO100 to ISO800.

1/1000, f4, ISO100 is same as 1/1000, f8, ISO800, but I should mention your initial exposure would likely be very bright light which doesn’t happen that often in the uk.

In post 5794 I posted some photos taken at the weekend. In good backlit conditions I got f5.6, 1/500, ISO1000 with the R6 and in shadow/shade with a smaller aperture due to longer focal length (aperture decreases the long the focal length gets on the RF100-500) I got f7.1, 1/800, ISO2500. I’d changed both aperture and shutter speed by around a stop of light so ISO had to compensate. If I’d have kept the shutter speed and aperture the same I’d say I would have still lost ISO but probably by around half a stop to to the shade.

The issue is a problem when light isn’t so good. I’m then having to manage the exposure settings to keep everything in a happy medium which can be a balancing game.
 
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rob-nikon said:
If you’re going from f4 to f8 you’d lose two stops of light. Keeping 1/1000 sec would mean compensating with two stops of ISO, in your example that would mean changing from ISO100 to ISO800.

1/1000, f4, ISO100 is same as 1/1000, f8, ISO800, but I should mention your initial exposure would likely be very bright light which doesn’t happen that often in the uk.
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Thanks a lot Rob. Yes not a very good example I agree! So I guess I need to establish if the R7 is likely better at say iso 3200 than my RX10 is at iso 800. Cheers
 
dibbly dobbler said:
Thanks a lot Rob. Yes not a very good example I agree! So I guess I need to establish if the R7 is likely better at say iso 3200 than my RX10 is at iso 800. Cheers
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I’d wait for the R7 to come up on the test drive and try it yourself unless you can find the comparison on the internet.

ISO performance really depends on the light you’re shooting in. If it’s good then you can really push ISO up high to get a great shutter speed. If it poor than ISO performance will be very different and you’re likely to be lowering shutter speed to get ISO lower.
 
I have a techy question regarding the screen on my R10 (and why I ask this)...

So some of my macro subjects are in places I cannot use the viewfinder for (many bugs are on the ground for example and I ain't lying down flat at my ripe old age) which means I need to use the articulated screen to compose images. The problem I am having is that the screen darkens after a few seconds unless I tap the shutter release briefly. I need to find a way of the screen continuing to stay bright and illuminated (I know it draws more battery power, but I have 3 of them so no issue there). Can anyone help and tell me the correct menu setting to do this - or how to maybe set it up as a custom function perhaps/

Cheers
Paul.
 
Paul Iddon said:
I have a techy question regarding the screen on my R10 (and why I ask this)...

So some of my macro subjects are in places I cannot use the viewfinder for (many bugs are on the ground for example and I ain't lying down flat at my ripe old age) which means I need to use the articulated screen to compose images. The problem I am having is that the screen darkens after a few seconds unless I tap the shutter release briefly. I need to find a way of the screen continuing to stay bright and illuminated (I know it draws more battery power, but I have 3 of them so no issue there). Can anyone help and tell me the correct menu setting to do this - or how to maybe set it up as a custom function perhaps/

Cheers
Paul.
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Look under your power saving menu (spanner if I remember correctly) ... there is a screen dimmer setting.
 
rob-nikon said:
I’d wait for the R7 to come up on the test drive and try it yourself unless you can find the comparison on the internet.

ISO performance really depends on the light you’re shooting in. If it’s good then you can really push ISO up high to get a great shutter speed. If it poor than ISO performance will be very different and you’re likely to be lowering shutter speed to get ISO lower.
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You've been very helpful Rob thanks again! :)
 
rob-nikon said:
If everything is equal between the cameras (I’m not sure on that) ifyou’re going from f4 to f8 you’d lose two stops of light. Keeping 1/1000 sec would mean compensating with two stops of ISO, in your example that would mean changing from ISO100 to ISO800.

1/1000, f4, ISO100 is same as 1/1000, f8, ISO800, but I should mention your initial exposure would likely be very bright light which doesn’t happen that often in the uk.

In post 5794 I posted some photos taken at the weekend. In good backlit conditions I got f5.6, 1/500, ISO1000 with the R6 and in shadow/shade with a smaller aperture due to longer focal length (aperture decreases the long the focal length gets on the RF100-500) I got f7.1, 1/800, ISO2500. I’d changed both aperture and shutter speed by around a stop of light so ISO had to compensate. If I’d have kept the shutter speed and aperture the same I’d say I would have still lost ISO but probably by around half a stop to to the shade.

The issue is a problem when light isn’t so good. I’m then having to manage the exposure settings to keep everything in a happy medium which can be a balancing game.
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Surely 2 stops up from iso 100 would be 400, not 800?
 
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