Looking to buying a new telephoto to use for action shots such as rugby matches and it must suit my canon 40d camera. Any recommendations please. Currently have 70 - 300mm f5.6 but find photos are blurry despite using aperture priority. Rather buy good quality lens thanks
Canon eos lens
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squishy
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As Hazza said, we need a budget!
Also, could we see some examples with exif data? You say photos are blurry, but that could easily be caused by user error (not slating you as a photographer here, just trying to potentially save you money, it's much cheaper to learn then to buy
), not using good focussing technique, not using a fast enough shutter speed, that sort of thing. Also, specifically what 70-300mm do you have? There are a few different ones on the market and they can vary a lot in quality (trying to get some idea of what your current kit should be capable of).
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Erm, without wanting to be rude the 70-300 should be perfectly capable of a decent image. What shutter speed are you using ? can you post an example ?
Just trying to avoid you paying out for an expensive lens and then having the same problem.
That said, you're looking at a 100-400 or a prime, either way its going to be over £800, even second hand. You could look at the sigma 150-500 too. I don't think a 70-200 is going to be long enough unless you use a teleconverter with it, which means you'll probably want to go for a f2.8 lens.
Edit: Missed your later post whilst I was writing this one.. The 75-300 isn't known for being brilliant but you shouldn't get blurry shots from it, so the above still stands.
Just trying to avoid you paying out for an expensive lens and then having the same problem.
That said, you're looking at a 100-400 or a prime, either way its going to be over £800, even second hand. You could look at the sigma 150-500 too. I don't think a 70-200 is going to be long enough unless you use a teleconverter with it, which means you'll probably want to go for a f2.8 lens.
Edit: Missed your later post whilst I was writing this one.. The 75-300 isn't known for being brilliant but you shouldn't get blurry shots from it, so the above still stands.
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gnirtS
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Rugby is pretty much always a low light issue especially the 2.30 kick offs in winter. Floodlights especially at lower league levels don't cut it.
Im using f/4-5.6 and its simply too slow. Admittedly until i upgrade a body im limited to ISO1600 acceptable but even that is too slow this time of year (low sun behind grey cloud, often rain, poor to non-existent flood lights).
I'd say a f/2.8 is needed to get the best out of it. Don't bother with IS. 200mm might be a little too short but depends on where you're standing and how much you're prepared to move around during the game.
Im using f/4-5.6 and its simply too slow. Admittedly until i upgrade a body im limited to ISO1600 acceptable but even that is too slow this time of year (low sun behind grey cloud, often rain, poor to non-existent flood lights).
I'd say a f/2.8 is needed to get the best out of it. Don't bother with IS. 200mm might be a little too short but depends on where you're standing and how much you're prepared to move around during the game.
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I set the camera to aperture priority and open up the aperture to try to obtain the fastest shutter speed and by adjusting Ido setting to max but still get blurring. I know I need a speed of min 1/640 but looking back on picture data lucky to achieve 1/250 resulting in blurring.good pictures if using 85mm lens . Any advice welcomed thanks
gnirtS
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Glass first. It'll make more of a difference than the body. Plus its transferable if/when you do decide to upgrade the body.
You CAN get rugby shots on a f/4-5.6 lens and 200m only just you need bright, sunny conditions to stand a fighting chance of action shots OR if it gets dark concentrate on slower stuff such as scrums, lineouts, rucks and so on.
Handoff by WhitcombeRD, on Flickr
For example taken ages ago on a 55-200 f/4-5.6 lens on a 450D. Its just a case of knowing the limitations, working to them and sometimes admitting theres no chance.
For example the 2 games ive been in the country for this year ive taken no photos. Too dark to consider with the equipment i have.
You CAN get rugby shots on a f/4-5.6 lens and 200m only just you need bright, sunny conditions to stand a fighting chance of action shots OR if it gets dark concentrate on slower stuff such as scrums, lineouts, rucks and so on.
Handoff by WhitcombeRD, on Flickr
For example taken ages ago on a 55-200 f/4-5.6 lens on a 450D. Its just a case of knowing the limitations, working to them and sometimes admitting theres no chance.
For example the 2 games ive been in the country for this year ive taken no photos. Too dark to consider with the equipment i have.
shabba
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Sorry I'm with the 'user error' camp, my old Sigma 70-300mm 5.6 was fine on my 40D even on darker days. What shutter speeds are you getting with the current setup at F5.6 and say ISO 800-1250?
The obvious choice for low cost/2.8 is the Sigma 70-200 2.8, around £350-400 used.
Personally I think you need to work on technique more, no offence.
The obvious choice for low cost/2.8 is the Sigma 70-200 2.8, around £350-400 used.
Personally I think you need to work on technique more, no offence.
mortimerhill
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when you say ISO max, what ISO are you actually shooting at?
Also, you say you're using aperture priority, what aperture do you have set? F5.6?
BTW, it's lens not lens
Also, you say you're using aperture priority, what aperture do you have set? F5.6?
BTW, it's lens not lens
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CaptainPenguin
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I shoot with a 40D and a Canon 70-300 IS and in the depths of winter I rarely get second half shots even at 3200 iso,however with a 2.30 kick off you should be getting decent speeds in the first half at say 1600 iso.Having said that a 70-200 f 2.8 that I aspire to is the answer and with a budget of £800 the Tamron or Sigma non IS are well within your grasp
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What shutter speed are getting at those settings
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To get the best response here, you need to show us some pics and let us know what your settings are. Don't worry about not posting award winners, folks on here generally want to help.
If it's purely a recommendation for gear you want then look for either a sigma 70-200mm f2.8 and get a 1.4x converter for extra reach when the days get brighter or a second hand sigma 120-300mm f2.8. Don't know if you can get on the classifieds or not but one has been up for sale for £850. A further option is a canon 200mm f2.8 if you don't need the zooms flexibility. Mpb have a couple under £500, again leaving some cash for a canon 1.4x.
If it's purely a recommendation for gear you want then look for either a sigma 70-200mm f2.8 and get a 1.4x converter for extra reach when the days get brighter or a second hand sigma 120-300mm f2.8. Don't know if you can get on the classifieds or not but one has been up for sale for £850. A further option is a canon 200mm f2.8 if you don't need the zooms flexibility. Mpb have a couple under £500, again leaving some cash for a canon 1.4x.
I don't think ISO is relevant here, if the OP is shooting in shutter priority the image will simply underexposure if the ISO is maxed out and the lens is wide open.
A few possible causes come to mind:
1) Not shooting is AI Servo. When focussing on a static object the camera auto focuses and then takes the shot, this is fine. When focussing on a moving target (especially a fast one) the delay between the focus being attained and the shot being taken means that the target is now out of focus. By using AI Servo it forces the camera to continually focus on the subject, thus when the shutter is pressed the target will be on focus.
2) The lens can't focus quick enough to keep up with your subject. This is quite possible but you would at least get the odd keeper.
3) The panning movement is not smooth. Apparently one of the most common issues with panning is that the shooter stops moving as they press the shutter, you need to continue the panning movement until you've taken the image. A bit like a golfer follows through the swing even though they already hit the ball.
Things I've found that help:
Turn IS off on your lens. Higher spec lenses have 2 mode IS, but your lens doesn't (if it actually has IS at all). The IS can interfere with what you are trying to do.
Support the lens from underneath with the left hand, holding the camera with the other. Hold your left upper arm to your body to give some stability.
Use back button focussing. By changing a setting on your camera you can use the AF-ON button to control the autofocus system, this is primarily used to separate metering from autofocus but I found it helps, maybe its because my grip changes on the camera and gives it more support.
A few possible causes come to mind:
1) Not shooting is AI Servo. When focussing on a static object the camera auto focuses and then takes the shot, this is fine. When focussing on a moving target (especially a fast one) the delay between the focus being attained and the shot being taken means that the target is now out of focus. By using AI Servo it forces the camera to continually focus on the subject, thus when the shutter is pressed the target will be on focus.
2) The lens can't focus quick enough to keep up with your subject. This is quite possible but you would at least get the odd keeper.
3) The panning movement is not smooth. Apparently one of the most common issues with panning is that the shooter stops moving as they press the shutter, you need to continue the panning movement until you've taken the image. A bit like a golfer follows through the swing even though they already hit the ball.
Things I've found that help:
Turn IS off on your lens. Higher spec lenses have 2 mode IS, but your lens doesn't (if it actually has IS at all). The IS can interfere with what you are trying to do.
Support the lens from underneath with the left hand, holding the camera with the other. Hold your left upper arm to your body to give some stability.
Use back button focussing. By changing a setting on your camera you can use the AF-ON button to control the autofocus system, this is primarily used to separate metering from autofocus but I found it helps, maybe its because my grip changes on the camera and gives it more support.