Canon efs 10-20 compared similar products

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RSMarco

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I all,
I'm currently looking into what UWA to get for my 60d and would like to understand how this compared to other manufacturers (tokina, sigma) etc

Peoples hands on reviews?

Mark
 
The Canon is an EF-S 10-22, which is a great lens.

I have no experience of any others but often see good reviews of the Sigma 10-20 on here.
 
I meant 10-22. Typing this on my iPhone.

I believe the sigma is a good lens for the money but I'm trying to understand if it's worth the cost difference?
 
Its a superb lens, on of the best lenses Canon has ever made.

The Sigma is good but inconsistent. When I tested one before I bought the Canon it was softer down one side, something to be aware of.
 
I have the EF-S 10-22 mm f/3.5-4.5 USM. I think it's good. But I haven't tried the alternatives.
 
Dumps on the competition imo. Mine is jokes sharp when stopped down and pretty good wide open.
 
I had the sigma 10-20 and not sure mine was a great example, I'd consider the tokina if i were to look again being a 2.8 if you need a fast lens, otherwise I'd look for a canon
 
I doubt most people would need f/2.8 in a UWA... Usually I shoot over f/7 with mine.
 
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Thanks Guy's,
I looked into the Tokina range and was put of by the references to flair. I want a UWG for landscapes and arcitecture mainly in the day but also some night / long exposure work.

The Sigma gets mixed views mainly for 'good or bad copies' from what I can read..?
 
I own the Canon 10-22 and the Tokina 11-16. I've also used my friend's Sigma 10-20 before I bought the others. I agree with Jim's comment - soft down one side. The Canon is the one I use outside in daylight. The range and the incredible resistance to flare are the killing points. The only advantage of the Tokina is the slightly wider aperture - not that useful in most situtations.

I keep the Tokina mainly for astro stuff - f2.8 really helps with that. It also works with my light pollution filter - the Canon doesn't.
 
Try a quick search, there are loads of posts comparing UWA lenses for Canon :thumbs:
 
I had a 10-22 when I had my 40D, it is basically a 17-40L in crop clothes (build quality is very similar too).

Like others, I can't comment on the Sigma and Tokina alternatives but the Canon is a great lens. One of the two lenses I would definitely still have if I had a crop body (the other being the 17-55).

Totally agree with Jim, one of Canon's best.
 
What lens hood do people use, the canon official one or what about the copy ones from eBay?
 
I use the official one only because it has flocking on the inside. And I dont trust the strength of the cheap ones!

That said, the Canon handles flair very well without it.
 
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Jim,

How have you found the hood for keeping extraneous light out?

I don't have one as I read it wasn't great due to the FoV of the lens, the hood being somewhat short you could say.

I often have slot-in filters on this lens anyway so I don't know if I would ever buy/use it.:shrug:
 
Thinking of buying this lens from Kerso?
 
AndyB1976 said:
Jim,

How have you found the hood for keeping extraneous light out?

I don't have one as I read it wasn't great due to the FoV of the lens, the hood being somewhat short you could say.

I often have slot-in filters on this lens anyway so I don't know if I would ever buy/use it.:shrug:
Click to expand...

I have to say since using it I can't recall seeing any flair from my 10-22 shots! It is quite shallow but I suppose that's all it needs to deflect the errant light?
 
:thumbs:
 
The 10-22 is the only one of my lenses that never gets used with the hood. Why? Because the hood is too large and too small. Let me explain....

It's too large because it's too wide. It takes up an inordinate amount of room in my bag and, if I have it on the lens reversed, the lens just doesn't fit into any of the compartments in the bag, or any of my lens pouches. I'd find a way to carry it around if it weren't for....

It's too small, in that it's not deep enough to do the job of a hood. It's not going to do much to prevent impacts to the front element and it's not going to block much direct sunlight hitting the lens. Besides, even without the hood, shooting directly into the sun, this lens just doesn't produce any flare (well, it does if you add a 'protective' filter).

So the hood is a pain to carry around and doesn't really do anything useful when it's fitted - which is why it's been stuck at home since I bought it.
 
With you on that one Frank - have a genuine hood for my 10-22 but virtually never use it as I have nowhere to put it.
 
It is wide. Then so is the lens so it was never going to be a small hood!
 
Thanks guys!

Any experiences with Lee filters on this lens?
 
I've read this and can't believe the wait is that long! It's the wide adapter you need, at least I hope so ad I've just bought one off a member on here.
 
Cheers Mate!
 
RSMarco said:
Thanks guys!

Any experiences with Lee filters on this lens?
Click to expand...

Lee Big Stopper (&Hitech GND 1.2 SE)

10stopper10-22a.jpg
 
Was also wondering about alternative filters as the Lee filters are either on back order or expensive.

Read mixed reviews on the other brands but that image looks good. What do you recommend as a starter kit as I am interested in adding motion to water and skies but also remembering I'm new to filters..
 
From my own reading on filters via the forums Hitech seemed to be somewhere between Lee and Cokin on quality and price.

Regarding the type or maybe 'strength' you need is quite dependent on conditions. I have a 3stop Hoya ND Pro1 screw-in which is useful for waterfalls, it can be carried attached to the lens and doesn't require the time attach the filter holder but I still need to keep an eye on the sky. I tend not mount the filter holder onto an already attached filter due to vignetting.

The Hitech soft edged 1.2(4stop) slot in grad was really just an estimate. I didn't want to own a 1stop and 2stop to find I was constants stacking them, however often the 4stop seems a bit too strong. So as I said, the conditions will dictate.

Something like a 10stopper is personal preference to whether you want the simple screw-in type which is readily available or a slot-in which is generally more expensive and difficult to source, not to mention the requirement for holder and lens adapter. I like to stack an GND with the 10StopND to control the sky however it is quite possible that a RAW file could contain enough data to PP a software grad later on.

Ultimately I'm very happy with the Lee Foundation Kit and holder, the 10Stopper seems a quality product. Is it worth the 50-75% premium over other 10stoppers - I'd say yes if you are intending to use with other slot-in GNDs.
 
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