Canon 7d Portrait Studio Settings

BrianDry

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Brian
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I have built a studio in my house ( http://twitpic.com/6cz792 ) but I am having a bit of trouble with the camera settings to get the desired effect.

To achieve a side lit B&W moody lighting face portrait, I have the 7d set to, Manual, 1/125, f9.0, iso 125, 5000K.

The 7d has a built in flash trigger and I am using Bowens 200 flash with a snoot to aim the light directly onto one side of the face (so the other side should be in deep shadow) My problem is that the built in flash (7d trigger for remote flash) with the setting on external flash only (I don't want the on camera flash on as this would light the whole subject) I am getting a black exposure. I am slightly guessing this is timing or some other setting but I can't find the right one to pick up the subject.

Please help?

Brian.

Thanks for your answers guys, I have now managed to get the settings right by changing the flash to 1/128 from 1:1 and this has now sinc'd the the Bowens with the 7d without the pop up flash giving any light to the subject.
 
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I have built a studio in my house ( http://twitpic.com/6cz792 ) but I am having a bit of trouble with the camera settings to get the desired effect.

To achieve a side lit B&W moody lighting face portrait, I have the 7d set to, Manual, 1/125, f9.0, iso 125, 5000K.

The 7d has a built in flash trigger and I am using Bowens 200 flash with a snoot to aim the light directly onto one side of the face (so the other side should be in deep shadow) My problem is that the built in flash (7d trigger for remote flash) with the setting on external flash only (I don't want the on camera flash on as this would light the whole subject) I am getting a black exposure. I am slightly guessing this is timing or some other setting but I can't find the right one to pick up the subject.

Please help?

Brian.

Hi Brian,
my advise would be buy a cheap IR trigger to fite the bowens.
 
I think I'm reading it right that you're using the onboard 7D flash to trigger the Bowens 200 flash? Doesn't the onboard use a series of pre trigger flashes to work out TTL and then advise the external flashes normally 430 & 580 EX etc what power to use?

Try the onboard in manual mode or does the Bowens have a TTL pre triger override?
 
I have built a studio in my house ( http://twitpic.com/6cz792 ) but I am having a bit of trouble with the camera settings to get the desired effect.

To achieve a side lit B&W moody lighting face portrait, I have the 7d set to, Manual, 1/125, f9.0, iso 125, 5000K.

The 7d has a built in flash trigger and I am using Bowens 200 flash with a snoot to aim the light directly onto one side of the face (so the other side should be in deep shadow) My problem is that the built in flash (7d trigger for remote flash) with the setting on external flash only (I don't want the on camera flash on as this would light the whole subject) I am getting a black exposure. I am slightly guessing this is timing or some other setting but I can't find the right one to pick up the subject.

Please help?

Brian.

The heads are firing off the pre-flash, which you have left enabled (it's for E-TTL remote functions).

Switch pop-up to manual, min power. That will fire the heads in sync, but you then need to prevent the pop-up from illuminating the subject, which it will if you're a bit close. Get the dark red cellophane wrappers off a couple of Quality Streets and wrap them over the pop-up with a rubber band. If that's still showing, I would try and make a little card deflector and fashion it to block the pop-up and direct the flash to the ceiling where it will disperse fairly harmlessly but still trigger the heads.

Something along those lines. Or get a little IR trigger like this from Interfit http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-interfit-int411-ir-flash-transmitter/p12455 or preferably a radio jobbie like this Lencarta http://www.lencarta.com/lighting-st...gers/16ch-wireless-flash-trigger-receiver-set Lots of other options.

Edit: nice litle studio you've got there, but if it's moody/low-key you're after, you will not be able to get total control under all circumstances with a white ceiling. Needs to be black for preference. Good lighting is about controlling highlights and shadows, or to put that another way, it's about having light where you want it, and not where you don't. If you want to control spill, try a softbox with a grid.
 
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Fantastic Hoppy, appreciate your input very much.

Also thank you also Brian and Calzor for your replies so quickly, it's people like you 3 that make this site a great place to be.
 
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It'll be worth getting a wireless trigger for added flexibility. You could use something like the rf602's as a cheap trigger, you'd only need one as the heads talk to each other.

How are you getting on with a White background for dark moody shots? Do you also have a black background?
 
@Byker28i thanks for the help, I know this is old but I had to stand back from my photography for personal reasons but I'm back with it now. I use a black background for moody shots.
 
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