Canon 5D mkii FOCUS

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STJPhotography

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Hi,

I am in a dilemma here. I am trying different methods of focus to achieve the correct framing for newborn/children photography.

I have tried Focus Recompose using the centre focus point unsuccessfully at low aperture due to the DOF and slight movement when shifting frame.

I have tried manual focus but this is so hit and miss . I have thought about a loupe to increase magnification on the liveview to aid me in my learning of manual focus.

Selecting one of the other 8 focus points which are not as reliable as centre and sometimes dont align exactly where I want them in the frame.

I have lastly tried stepping back, increasing the frame and cropping later.

Are these the methods that people use in the real world and if so what am I doing wrong. Alternatively, what methods do people use to focus and shift the frame.

I hope this makes sense. I am on the verge of upgrading to 5dmkiii or switching over to Nikon D600/D610/D800 to increase focus points to make life easier.

thanks.
 
Will it not have more to do with the minimum focus capability of the lens selected than the camera? Which lens(es) have you tried?
 
Welcome to TP :)

You seem to have covered the options, but have you really put centre-point focus-recompose to the test, or just assumed it won't work because a few mis-informed web bloggers have said so? Sure the theory is right, but it's only a problem if a) you're very close, b) focus point is way off to the side, and c) DoF is very shallow.

Most people that claim to have problems with this technique are actually sufferering camera and/or subject distance changes between focusing and shooting. Fix it by moving back and using a longer lens to reduce the angle shift, perhaps in combination with the trick you've been using of framing more loosely and cropping in post, though this also increases DoF slightly.

The alternative is to use an outer AF point (they're not that bad on a 5D2) or get a 5D3 :)
 
The out focus points on the MK II use to drive me crazy. I was fuming after buying the MK II with such bad focusing they then brought out cheaper 7D with its much improved focusing points. The best option is a MKIII a cheaper one is to shoot stopped down say f8 to give you more room for error.
 
Mk2 is a fantastic camera, there's no need to spend money on camera change at the moment.

I do focus-recompose most of the time. The key is to keep the camera steady, and only turn, so many times after I've taught my friend/family on how to focus-recompose with my 5D, they move slightly forward/back when recomposing. Make sure you only rotate the camera, do not move forward/back. (pretty much what Hoppy said)

Another option is to install Magic Lantern and get a loupe for live-view manual focusing. Magic Lantern have a number of added features to live-view including focus peaking or only magnify a small section of image for focus check.

Finally, you could buy a 430ExII, and only use AF-assist light, the assist light from the flashgun is designed for Mk2, covers all of the focus points and I've never had any problem using it to focus with outer points, even in pitch black. The flashgun also allows you the take better photos and help freeze movements.
 
Thanks for the input everyone.

I think I had a bit of an issue with my Sigma 35 1.4 art lens with back focus issues which did not help my situation.(will have to but the USB dock) I switched to canon 100 2.8 is and "bingo" my focus recompose using centre is much better if I stop it down to 2.8 from the 1.4 i was trying with the sigma. Far better results.

As an alternative I have been trying live view with 5x 10x magnification with excellent results on stationery subjects although I was not aware of the exposure changing to the viewed rectangle !! I am now looking into changing the focusing screen to the EG-S. Has anyone used and can recommend ? or do I get a loupe

I suppose I could always crop as very rare I need the full 21mp.
 
STJPhotography said:
Thanks for the input everyone.

I think I had a bit of an issue with my Sigma 35 1.4 art lens with back focus issues which did not help my situation.(will have to but the USB dock) I switched to canon 100 2.8 is and "bingo" my focus recompose using centre is much better if I stop it down to 2.8 from the 1.4 i was trying with the sigma. Far better results.

As an alternative I have been trying live view with 5x 10x magnification with excellent results on stationery subjects although I was not aware of the exposure changing to the viewed rectangle !! I am now looking into changing the focusing screen to the EG-S. Has anyone used and can recommend ? or do I get a loupe

I suppose I could always crop as very rare I need the full 21mp.
Click to expand...

BIG thumbs up to the focus screens. I swapped both of mine out for the Eg-s and wouldn't ever go back. I do shoot f1.4 a lot on both the Sigma 35mm, 85mm and f2 on the Canon 135mm. I almost never centre anything either and use the centre focus point then recompose. When I first started I had similar problems and just seemed to miss the focus by a whisker every now and then but with practise you'll get there. When focus recomposing a good bracing technique as well as stance comes into it, and then it's almost like a pivot motion from where the camera is resting on your eye/nose. Try and consciously keep the 'pivot axis' around the sensor plane and you'll be golden...if that makes sense? :-)

Oh, and as to back focusing...if it's that bad and not just your camera, don't take no cr*p and send it to sigma to be calibrated at their expense. You shouldn't have to spend X amount on a USB dock to fix their QC issues.
 
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EG-S is good for f2.8 or faster lenses, I'd use it if all my lenses are f2.8. But unfortunately my zooms are f4, using it darkens the viewfinder making things difficult to see. But I don't find it useful for focus-recompose, I found it only useful using manual focus.

So I've got a EG-S to get rid of, if you are interested?
 
I have ordered the eg-s screen on amazon prime. However I will try and master the focus recompose method.

With the focus screen, will the viewfinder be dark if you were to stop a 35mm 1.4 down to f/16 say. Is it only dark with lenses at f/4 and above or lenses that are f/4 and below that are stopped higher?

Thanks
 
Lenses are always wide open while not taking photos. So as long as you don't press DoF preview button, everything will be fine.

You'll need f2.8 or faster lenses to not get darker viewfinder. So yes, it will only affect f4 or slower lenses.
 
Try using Back Button Focussing, that way you can easily set the focus point and then recompose and the shutter button just takes the photo without altering the focus. After a bit of practice you'll get used to the focus-recompose and your rate will improve.
 
I use back button focus & very often focus/recompose with no issue with a 5D2. I also find the outer points reasonable as long at the light/contrast is ok.
I also have an EG-S screen & I don't notice the dark viewfinder issue. Then again my only zoom is a 17-40 at f/4 & I usually use that at hyperfocal etc for land/seascapes so it's not really an issue.

I would persevere with what you have if I was you before spending more for no reason.
 
There are a lot of good suggestions here. I will add, you said that the outer focus points do not always line up. I use the outer (5d3) and when they don't line up exactly I recompose from that spot. This reduces the amount of movement the camera does and increases the success rate quite a bit.
 
I own a canon 5d mkii & I have to say it never causes me any problems, it produces staggeringly sharp images & as for the A.F. I use mine for birds in flight so it can't be that slow.
I also own canon 1d mkiv & a 7d both of which I've had numerous problems with.
Got a 1dx yesterday as a Xmas present but can't comment on it yet.
 
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