Canon 1DX - Official Owners Thread

Just need the posts...will build them up slowly and see :P

Tugster can vouch for me too :)
 
I'll give you a 5D3 and 2 grand for it!

So after all the trading you have done on TP you are still not aware of the rules then?
Please re-read them
 
Well it seems as though quite a few others could do with re-reading the rules in that case.
 
I have it set to '1' with the 300/2.8 and '2' for the 200/2. I tried various settings at the start and it took me a while to realise that the lenses (or their usage) benefitted from different settings.

The 300/2.8 is generally for the more distance stuff and the 200/2 when the action gets closer.....I guess that the closer action can move around the frame more quickly. (BTW, were taking football here)

Bob[/QUOTE]

So Bob, are you using 61 points and face recognition?
I tend to use centre plus all surrounding...

George.

ps at nearly 9K clicks, never run up so many in a body so quickly!!
 
Haha already have a 5d mk iii. Thinking of downsizing to just the 5d mk iii.

Will see what happens!
 
I find myself using 1+4 in terms of AF, with the joystick at hand to quickly move the point when needed.
 
So Bob, are you using 61 points and face recognition?
I tend to use centre plus all surrounding...

George.

ps at nearly 9K clicks, never run up so many in a body so quickly!!
I use all points, George, but not the face recognition as there are as many arses as faces in my footy shots. I pick up on the centre and then let the subject drift to allow composition....player on the ball is the subject and then let him move to the left of the frame for a tackle coming in from the right (hope that made sense).

Bob
 
I use all points, George, but not the face recognition as there are as many arses as faces in my footy shots. I pick up on the centre and then let the subject drift to allow composition....player on the ball is the subject and then let him move to the left of the frame for a tackle coming in from the right (hope that made sense).

Bob

How well does it work Bob?
 
Let me re-phrase. Do you find that function works well in that you are getting better composed shots that are in focus straight out of camera?

Sorry Tug, yes, it's spot on. The closer shots with the 200/2 can occasionally miss but I assume it to be when the active focus points and the surrounding ones are all contained within the subject.

Bob
 
Can you move the camera at the same time Bob?

i.e. if following a player and they are relatively close then if you can swivel the camera on the monopod the player would be out of frame very quickly.
 
Can you move the camera at the same time Bob?

i.e. if following a player and they are relatively close then if you can swivel the camera on the monopod the player would be out of frame very quickly.

I don't use a monopod, Rob. I think the rate change is the reason that I found the 200/2 shots require the faster tracking/focus point change I highlighted a few posts back. A quick release of the AF on button and back again will cause the focus to shift back to the centre and acquirre a new target.

Try picking up a static subject and then move the frame so that they shift to the side....you'll see the active points follow the subject until it exits the frame.

Bob
 
I don't use a monopod, Rob. I think the rate change is the reason that I found the 200/2 shots require the faster tracking/focus point change I highlighted a few posts back. A quick release of the AF on button and back again will cause the focus to shift back to the centre and acquirre a new target.

Try picking up a static subject and then move the frame so that they shift to the side....you'll see the active points follow the subject until it exits the frame.

Bob

Hmm, I tried that with birds and wasn't too successful, must give it another try.
 
I've had a real mind warp at a footy match today.

I have the 1Dx set to record to the cards separately, slot 1 for Raw and slot 2 for Jpeg.

Somehow, I have managed to change the second card over to shot Raw part way through the game, then back to jpeg for a stint and then back to Raw for the rest of the game. In the heat of battle I hadn't noticed this through the viewfinder as I wasn't looking for it and it isn't something that I have managed to cock up before.

For the life of me, I can't think how I have managed to do it :shrug:

Do any of you guys have any clues?

Thanks in advance for your help
 
I've had a real mind warp at a footy match today.

I have the 1Dx set to record to the cards separately, slot 1 for Raw and slot 2 for Jpeg.

Somehow, I have managed to change the second card over to shot Raw part way through the game, then back to jpeg for a stint and then back to Raw for the rest of the game. In the heat of battle I hadn't noticed this through the viewfinder as I wasn't looking for it and it isn't something that I have managed to cock up before.

For the life of me, I can't think how I have managed to do it :shrug:

Do any of you guys have any clues?

Thanks in advance for your help

Have you hit one of the c.fn buttons? i dont know what they are set to as default as i've changed mine but one of the options is to change the quality setting
 
Hello, long time lurker on the forum :)

I finally took the plunge a couple of weeks ago and bought the 1Dx (gulp!) to replace my 7D. As much as I loved my 7D, the noise whenever I went above 800 ISO was starting to annoy me.

I used the 1Dx in anger in Bavaria and it worked beautifully so am very happy. The only problem was when I downloaded my images on Day 3 and a lot of them were not viewable :(

I can view them in the back of my camera and I can see all the thumbnails if I use FirstPass but any attempt to open them results in a black screen for at least 20% of the images. If I use LightRoom or the Canon software, most of the thumbnails are viewable so I can see which ones are "corrupted".

The cards I am using are Lexar UDMA 7 1000x CF cards - does anyone know if the issue might be with the camera or the cards? Cards are always formatted in camera.

Thanks!
 
Are you shooting in RAW, or are the unviewable files RAW? Like unsaid in my previous post if the front c.fn button is set to change image quality it can be quite easy to accidentally switch between jpg and raw
 
Are you shooting in RAW, or are the unviewable files RAW? Like unsaid in my previous post if the front c.fn button is set to change image quality it can be quite easy to accidentally switch between jpg and raw

Hi,

I shoot in RAW only.

Thanks!
 
I shoot all sorts, from studio to landscape to wildlife. Currently I use a 5DMkII for studio and landscapes and a 7D for Wildlife. I can afford an upgrade to a 1DX in the expectation it will cover all options, and I get rid of the two older bodies. Or for the same dosh I can buy a 5DMkIII and also buy a 70-200mm f2.8 IS (upgrading my 70-200 F4 IS) and still keep the 7D for Wildlife.

The 1DX does seem to me the better option covering basically all I need in one body (I do not need a spare body) but I would like to hear from people who actually use it (no need for diversions around crop factors and 7D noise issues; I am aware of these and the 70-200 upgrade is just a bit of drool factor, I can probably still live with the F4!).
 
Studio, landscape = 5DIII

What wildlife? Are we talking birds in trees and BIF?

If it's BIF & it's important then I would go for the 1Dx. If it's fairly static wildlife I would go with the 5DIII
 
Sounds like BIF isn't a high % of shots. In which case I would go for the 5D3 and the lens.
 
Hmmm, I thought about this a lot, and in the end went for the Dx and I haven't regretted it.
I'm sure the 5D3 is an excellent camera, but if any motion is involved, then the 12 fps coupled with the af system is just great.
I have both a 7D and a 1 Dx, before I got the 1 Dx I had a 1 Ds3, most of my stuff is wildlife and prior to the Dx, I'd say 90% of my shots were with the 7D, however since I got the Dx, I've hardly picked up the 7D as the noise, general image quality and especially the af are so much better.
I do miss the crop of the 7D, and it's cost me in that I've invested in a 400 DO to compensate for the reach, but if you go for the Dx you won't be disappointed.
Everyone on here is, as far as I know, delighted with it's performance, however I agree that for landscape and static stuff, the mk3 must be excellent...and it has more pixels...but for anything involving motion, go for the Dx for the ultimate.
However, and it's a big factor, there is a large price penalty to pay......
 
I took the leap from the 5DIII to the 1DX for more versatility and faster shooting. I was the most apprehensive of the IQ. After looking at test after test, after test, and videos. i purchased the 1DX (had to flog the 5DIII)..

It hasn't let me down in the studio at all!

I am amazed by the IQ and detail achieved that replaced my concerns.

Shot with a 24-70 2.8L II. a 100% crop inserted.

Water tank Yesterday..

demo_zps5bbb4ab4.jpg
 
Tbh the 5d3 is just as good as the 1dx as they both share similar af systems.nthe 1dx is faster and has colour cross types. The 5d3 can do fast subjects very well
 
Are you speaking from hands on experience or just reading reviews?
 
Great image Chris and thanks for the advice George.

Tugster, good question!; I posted here because I wanted advice from 1DX USERS.

Like George, I am a bit worried about loss of resolution but the sensor in the 1DX is NOT the same as the 5DMKIII and he seems happy in the studio as does Chris. I am also tempted by the bomb-proofing of the 1DX if I am out and about on the coast with the sand, sea etc. From reviews, landscapers seem pretty impressed by the 1DX IQ even if resolution is slightly down. But boy does it cost!!
 
Yup it does cost, Stuart, and in a lot of ways perhaps seem difficult to justify over the 5d3, suppose it's a bit like hi fi, law of diminishing returns etc, but I think the 18 mpx is good as it gives the great noise performance. I find myself using iso's I'd never consider before.
Think of what we did with film, I can remember searching for 1600 iso film to use in Egyptian tombs where you couldn't use flash, the 1 Dx would have that stuff for breakfast!!

Best of luck with the decision, let us know!!

George.
 
Are you speaking from hands on experience or just reading reviews?

Reading reviews and looking at specs.

I am talking about the 5D3 not the 5D2.

You do know the 5D3 and 1dx have a VERY similar AF system? infact the only difference is colour AF points as stated already.
 
Sorry but the 1 dx has a single digic 4 processor JUST for the AF. The 5DMk III does not, so AF is faster and more accurate in the 1dx; I read reviews too. What I want is advice from pros who actually use the camera.
 
dunno if youv'e watched this i know it's not the best review out there but it does show you the differences between the 1dx and the 5d3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDaW1RZGMVQ&feature=g-u-u

i had a long hard think about these 2 cameras and the more i read the more i was convincing myself if i bought a 5d3 ( i already have a 5d2 ) i would always have the niggle i should of got the 1dx
so i bought the 1dx and have no niggles whatsoever about not buying a 5d3
 
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